Year in Review: Goodbye 2020, Hello 2021!

We made it, everyone, 2020 is over and done, and here's to another trip around the sun!

To say that the last year was difficult would be an understatement.  Uncertainty is uncomfortable, frustrating, and even frightening; but our continued hopes, dreams, and the possibilities in the new year ahead are unstoppable! 

There is no magic wand to free us from these trying times, (believe me, I'd be the first to wave one if I could), and, unfortunately, the turn of a calendar page may have little immediate effect on the state of the current pandemic.  I write this not to discourage, but to encourage us to reflect - to admit to deep disappointment, feel sadness, and grieve - and to celebrate the victories, both big and small.  More important than ever, in the upcoming year, let's set reasonable expectations, and be kind to ourselves and to others.  My mantra for 2021: expect nothing, appreciate everything.  

Speaking of appreciation, I'm so grateful for the continued encouragement of my sewing, weaving, education, and living history adventures.  To my friends, family, patrons, and all of you lovely followers on this blog, on the Facebook page, and on Instagram - thank you!  It's only because of your generous support that I'm able to create this content, which brings me and, hopefully, others so much joy.  

So to kick off the blogging for 2021, here's a look at last year's favorite memories:

Year in Review: 2020 Highlights

An interview with the National Geographic! 

Find the full article, here: "Historic Interpreters Share Their Sides of the Story"

This was an opportunity of a lifetime, and the greatest honor to be included with so many powerful voices, including Cheyney McKnight of Not Your Momma's History.  To tell the story - of their history, our history, American history - and to be a part of a more diverse and inclusive future at living history sites and museums.  Many thanks to the journalists, Jennifer Barger and Heather Greenwood Davis, for their important work, and to my friend, Cheyney, for leading the path forward.  

If you haven't already, read the article, here: "Historic Interpreters Share Their Sides of the Story" 

Speaking at Costume On 2: Tailored, an international online conference!

The biannual, international online conference, Costume On, connects costumers and historical fashion enthusiasts from all over the world for a weekend of virtually-hosted seminars and workshops.  (Make sure to visit their website at: 1886location.com for upcoming conferences, master classes throughout the year, historical patterns, and more!)

During the Fall 2020 conference, I had the great privilege and pleasure of teaching two classes!  I wrote a blog post about those classes, here: Online Conference - Costume On 2: Tailored.   The first lecture presented Chinese-American history through the lens of the Civil War, giving background on early Chinese immigration, stories from both sides of the war, and post-war discrimination and lasting legacy.  In fact, through this conference, thanks to several steps of connections, I was able to correspond with a long-time hero of mine, Irving Moy, author of An American Journey, living historian, and expert on Chinese-American participation in the Civil War.  We've since kept in touch, and his continued encouragement and the wealth of information he's shared are truly invaluable. 

The second lecture was on Orientalism, defined by centuries of complex, cross-cultural borrowing, imitation, and appropriation, with a particular emphasis on the textiles, garments, and accessories that have shaped menswear from the late-16th through 19th centuries.  I've become enamored with this extensive area of dress history, and it has endless possibilities for presentations (so keep an eye out for more on this subject to come in 2021...)

I learned so much, personally and professionally, about presenting through this debut into (online) public speaking, and I'm so grateful to Chantal Filson, the founder and dean of the conference, for the opportunity - thank you! 

Launching a Patreon!

This was somewhat of a surprise endeavor this year, and never would have been possible without the support of my good friend, social media guru, and personal champion, Kristen.  Launched during the summer quarantine, it's been amazing to connect with an online costuming community through zoom meetings, our monthly, "sip-and-sew" live chants, and other virtual events. 

On Patreon, several membership levels or tiers allow patrons to directly assist individual artists and makers in their creative endeavors.  In exchange, patrons unlock exclusive contents, live chats, personalized gifts, and more, funding the hopes and dreams of many creators, including yours truly! 

In fact, I have four, lovely patrons to thank today!  Their support and belief in me actively transforms current and future projects from dreams to reality.  And I look forward to developing my Patreon throughout this upcoming year, and beyond! 

Completing my college thesis & dress project!

A model of a period-correct costume for a historical interpreter.

After three semesters of research, writing, and sewing (and additional complications during the pandemic), my senior thesis - Wearing History: The Value in Costuming Historical Interpreters at Living History Sites & Museums - and the accompanying dress project (depicted above) are finished!  

In total, I wrote a 46-page research paper, exploring the potential in adequately-funded, period-accurate costuming programs for improving visitor engagement, staff performance, and institutional credibility and outreach.  For the project component, I assembled a model of a period-correct costume for a historical interpreter, constructing everything from the undergarments, to the day dress, accessories, and outerwear.  I also composed a series of appendixes to document the construction process, quantify the costs, and justify each design choice with descriptions from the chosen time period.  All in all, handing the massive project in was a relief, and I'd love to publish it in some form in the future.  

I graduated summa cum laude! 

It's official, I hold a Bachelor's of Integrated Studies (with two minors) from Kent State University!

Somehow I managed to survive art school - with double concentrations in costume construction and textile arts.  (The 4.0, however, comes at the cost of three years without sleep...there was the weekly all-nighter or two, late nights and weekends in the studios, and finals weeks we will never speak of again, #stilltramatized).  Two decades as a career student are over, and onto the next chapter...living history museums here I come!

Social Media Milestones

I try not to get caught up with the numbers game, but I did want to mention the social media milestones of 2020:

• Over on Instagram @youngsewphisticate, we reached an incredible 3000+ followers, and, per the tradition, here's our Top Nine:

• Our Facebook page broke 500+ "likes" and followers.  
• On the blog, I managed to write 18 blog posts, which, though modest in number, is up from the previous year...we also rebranded as The Sewphisticate, a name which better reflects my growth not only as a seamstress, but as a textile artist, educator and living historian.

What will 2021 bring?

Since there's no telling when in-person events may resume, I'd like to draw your attention to the fabulous Virtual Regency Retreat, hosted by the Historic Joseph Teel House!  (Registration is open until January 28th, with the virtual retreat running January 29th through the 31st)  According to their website, the event will feature an entire weekend of guest speakers, performances, and other activities, including a virtual fashion show, which I have the honor of being a participant:

Virtual fashion show at the Joseph Teel House - 
Visit their website to see all of the participants!

I'm also looking forward to more public speaking engagements in the future (plans are already in the works!), as well as continuing to build and maintain an online presence in the New Year.  While I feel some uncertainty, there's also excitement for what's to come next...

Cheers 2021, and may we make every minute count!

Year In Review: Goodbye 2019, Hello 2020!

"Another fresh New Year is here...

Another year to live! 

To banish worry, doubt and fear, 

To love, and laugh and give!"

- William Arthur Ward 

Happy New Year!
T. Corbella Postcard from the 1920s.
(Image via: Tumblr: Anything Goes - Celebrating the 20s)

Enter the roaring 20-20s - and another, new decade begins!  But before we say goodbye to the 20-teens, I'd like to reflect upon the past year's accomplishments, and forward to another twelve months of sewing, weaving, living history, and (hopefully a little more) blogging.

This past year, I struggled to keep up on all of the social platforms - our Facebook page, Instagram, and here on Blogger - and sometimes it's hard to remember that I am learning, making, and mostly succeeding, especially when the day-to-day progress seems slow.  With full-time college and work at the museum, weaving and sewing every day in #artschool or for the occasional personal project, traveling, and other life adventures - 2019 was as busy a year as ever!  So, for this year in review post, here is a list of my favorite happenings:

Year in Review: 2019 Highlights

Sewing Projects:

Mid-19th Century, Blue Print Day Dress

College: 

• Period Draping (2 semesters) 
• In a years time, I learned to drape from pictures and research images of both extant garments and designer renderings from the 18th through 20th centuries.  I gained so much confidence in my flat patterning and cutting skills, and my sewing accuracy and ability to envision (and execute) the step-by-step construction process improved as well. 
• Gaining speed and reigning in the perfectionism are my two areas to work on, as well as continued draping/flat patterning practice.
• Favorite drapes: (1) my first 18th century dress! (draped over me-made stays); (2) my first Bustle Era ensemble, which included a jacket, vest, skirt, and bustle drapery

Historical sewing: 

Mid-19th Century, Pink Striped Sheer Dress

• 18th Century 
• linen bedgown 
• linen cap

• Early-19th Century 
• Striped half-robe 
• Double-ruffle Regency cap

• Mid-19th Century 
• C's sacque coat (Blog post: A New Coat for Little C)
• Chemise & drawers 
• Pink sateen corset (Blog post: A Pink Sateen Corset with Pearl Flossing)
• Plain hoop petticoat 

• Blue day dress
• Pink striped sheer 
• Various accessories (hairpieces, bows, silk belts, etc.) 

• Modern 
• Spooky novelty skirt
• Spooky hat 

Weaving Projects:

Project 1 in Advanced Studio

I completed four more textile courses to round out my dual concentrations in both costume construction and textile arts.  

• Color & Weave (Spring 2019)
• Blossom Art Intensive (Summer 2019)
• Dimensional Textiles (Fall 2019)
• Advanced Studio (Fall 2019) - an independent study of overshot pattern design and weaving techniques + graduate seminar

Living History Events

Cheyney of Not Your Momma's History & me
at the Citizen's Forum of the 1860s

Travels:  I'd love to attend all three of these events again!

• Ohio Regimental Military Ball in Canton, OH (February) 
• Citizen's Forum of the 1860s in Maumee, OH (March)
• Remembrance Weekend at Greenfield Village in Dearborn, MI (May)

Season #6 at the Genesee Country Village & Museum:

• Inventions Week - I set up shop as the dressmaker! (July)
• Civil War Weekend (July)
• Summer Gathering Series: Getting Dressed in the 1830s (August)
• This was my second collaboration with Brandon (@L_Aspect_Ancien) at the John L. Wehle Gallery!
• Watch our afternoon performance here, courtesy of Facebook live: 

• Domestic Symposium (November)
• Roc Holiday Village: a day of ice skating & caroling with friends! (December) 

Social Media Milestones

• I think I finally doubled the posts over on Instagram @youngsewphisticate, where we have an amazing 1300+ following!  Check out our 2019 Top Nine post collage above!
• We made it to 400 "likes" on our Facebook page - here at: The Young Sewphisticate! 

And that concludes this year-in-review post!  I'd like to thank everyone - most dearly, sincerely, and across all of the social platforms - for your overwhelming support of my studies and adventures in sewing, weaving, and living history.  Look forward to new content (and hopefully some filling in of the gaps in sewing projects listed above) coming your way in 2020...May your needle always be sharp, your shuttle fast, and your fabric stash overflowing! 

Ice Skating at the Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial Park

Cheers 2020, and may we make every minute count!

Weekly Writings II: Cast On, Weave Off

Wow, thank you for all of the encouragement on my last post - weekly writings seems to be a hit, or least something worth continuing!  

Weekly Writings for November 4th through the 8th, and a little beyond. 

This second weekly writings was meant to be last week's, but since it just needed pictures, I decided to finish it off this morning.  I'll be skipping ahead a week in the next installment, so stay tuned...Also, for the time being, I plan to only record weekdays, giving myself weekends off to catch up on editing, life, and, of course, more studio work.  So, without further ado, let's dive in - 

Monday, November 4th 

Continued the weekend work in the costume studio.  By this point in the semester, I'm used to spending Mondays and Wednesdays in the costume studio, and Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays in textiles.  Ask anyone in either studio, and they probably know me - I basically live between the two studios and have since I've come to Kent - it's the running joke here.  I don't often mind it though, and I take pride in being considered the "studio mom."  I swear I spend half of my time working on my own projects, and the other half either chatting, offering my critique/opinion, or assisting the newcomers.

I'll also throw in that I dragged a friend to see the Fall musical, Hair, with me on Saturday and it was definitely the best I've seen at Kent so far - congrats to the cast and crew!   

KSU's production of Hair, directed by Terri Kent
in commemoration of the 50th anniversary of the May 4th Massacre
Photograph by: Kent State University's School of Theatre and Dance

Back to sewing:  Despite making some progress on my 1860s dress over the weekend, in a brief panic of only having four days until I leave for the domestic symposium, I decided to switch gears.  Regency working class here I come!  Going back to my comfort zone, I patterned a new short gown based off a few examples in my pinterest board:19th Century Short Gowns.   

I've always been drawn to working class fashions -
and the bold mixing of colors, patterns, and prints.
(Image via: Pinterest)

Inspiration for the bodice pieces.
(Image via: Pinterest)

Inspiration for the sleeves and skirt.
(Image via: Pinterest)

I made a mock up, corrected my pattern, and will be using a turkey red, striped reproduction fabric that I picked up at Zinck's Fabric Outlet.  I'd also like to make a new, checked apron too if there's time, but, per usual, this may be too ambitious...

Short gown mock up sans sleeves.
The waistline was raised by 1" in the corrected pattern.

Apron fabric (left), short gown fabric (right)

Lastly, I had fun practicing with diamond netting on the pinnable sewing tables.  Tomorrow in my dimensional class I'll probably begin the final netting sample.  

My first attempt at diamond netting - definitely needs more practice!

Tuesday, November 5th 

Today in the textile studio, I continued practicing netting techniques, including increasing, decreasing, and changing threads: 

I also began a circular net: 

Then, I took a break to darn a sweater for an art history professor.  There were seven holes, so it took a while.  Here's a helpful diagram for the next time you need to darn something: 

Diagram for darning holes from
"How to Mend Your Knits"
(Image source: MarthaStewart.com)

In the evening, I continued to work on my overshot sampling.  The following sample is woven with a 3-step gradient that I dyed with Pro-Chem's WF fuschia and WF turquoise for the pattern pick, and a gradient of 10/2 cotton yarns from melon to yellow for the structural pick.

More overshot sampling in progress.
Pattern weft: hand-dyed 2-ply wool yarn
Structural weft: 10/2 cotton yarn

Wednesday, November 6th

Back in the costume studio.  Aside from my regular class work and few chapters of reading, I began to put together my short gown.  

Fashion fabric is a reproduction cotton print, lining of cotton muslin.

Mostly finished the apron: 

The apron is hemmed, gauged, and ready to be attached to the band! 

And finished the night with the college late night skate, a weekly event that runs from 10:30pm to midnight.  We all need our hobbies, right? 

Thursday, November 7th

For dimensional, I finished my first circular net in class, and began the final sample (this time for a grade) which will need to be completed over the weekend.  

Netting samples: 2 circular (left and middle), 1 square (right)

Circular netting sample

Detail of circular net

The sample collapsed

For advanced studio, I finally finished sampling!  In total, the sample warp was 150", and I ended up with eight color studies.  

This final sample was actually woven to trade with another art student.
Paige picked two textured yarns, which had an interesting effect on the pattern.

After my ice skating lesson, I removed the completed samples and gelled the edges in preparation for Fridays' critique.  

Ready to remove samples - and that's a wrap! 

Friday, November 8th

Today's the big day - packing for the weekend and then studio in the morning.  Several of us had critique in the afternoon.  I received some good feedback and direction for my final project. 

Drove home to NY to see the Mom and the dog.  Looking forward to the 2019 Domestic Symposium this weekend - stay tuned for the post on this event!  

Weekly Writings I: Beginnings

Trying out a new style for my blog posts with the intention of a more casual, conversational format and journal-like entries for this week's works-in-progress.  I'd love to hear what you think of the change - and if I should continue!

Monday, October 28th

I began a new passion project - an autumn 1860s dress!  This will be a "nicer" day dress of a striped, reproduction cotton with shirred coat sleeves and velvet trim on the bodice.  The goal is to have it wearable by GCV's domestic symposium if I can attend, and finished for Thanksgiving.  Not sure if either will happen, but here's to hoping...today's progress included assembling the skirt and preparing the hem facing for hand stitching. 

Materials: (top) dress fabric, (bottom) hem facing, (right) gold velvet trim.

Inspiration for bodice trim.
CDV of a young woman, c.1860s
(Image via: Pinterest, sold on Ebay) 

Shirred sleeves
(Image via: Pinterest) 

Another example of gathering on the sleeve.
CDV of Isa Vanfossen from Wellsville, OH, c.1860s
(Image via: Pinterest, sold on Etsy)

Tuesday, October 29th

Spent the day, 10 am - 8pm, in the textile studio.  In my dimensional class, we began our basketry samples.  Simultaneously wrapping, coiling, and stitching proved a challenge...I can see why basketry is an art!

Afterwards, I worked for my studio hours on an overshot sample.  Currently, I'm testing colors for my next, much larger project.  I dyed a four-step green gradient (ProChem's WF golden yellow + WF brilliant blue) last Friday for the pattern weft, which is crown colony 2-ply wool yarn.  The structural tabby weft is another gradient of 10/2 cottons, over a 5/2 cotton warp.  That's three separate color systems to consider - it's looking a lot like Fall on my loom!

Weft color systems:
Hand-dyed 4-step gradient of 2-ply wool for pattern picks,
(5 colors) 10/2 cottons for tabby picks

Progress on the loom.

It's almost impossible to tell, but there is a color transition
from light yellow to lime green in the structural or tabby pick.
In the next sample, I will probably make sure the color change is more dramatic.  

Plans for the rest of my night include (1) hand-stitching the hem facing, and (2) beginning my basketry project.  It's already 10pm, so we'll see how much actually gets done.  Our critique for all of the basketry samples is on Thursday, which is a crazy-fast turn around!


Wednesday, October 30th

I wrapped, coiled and stitched a thing!  It took forever and my hands will probably hurt for the rest of the week from keeping the tension...Thank goodness for Amazon Prime though - I watched all six episodes of the BBC series Aristocrats (1999), re-watched The Fabulous Life Of Elisabeth Vigee Labrun (2018), and listened to more musical playlists than I'd care to admit.  I also really, really want to sew all the 18th century things now. 

Basket in progress - here you can see I am wrapping a rope core with light tan wool,
and alternating color blocks of brown and puce-colored cotton yarns.

Here's the finished basketry sample: 

Not too bad for a first attempt, but I'm not sure I'm ready to be a basket-maker.  Bring on the circular and diamond netting next! 

Thursday, October 31st

Happy Halloween - wishing everyone a spooktacular day!

Today's #OOTD or outfit of the day featured my glow-in-the-dark spooky skirt, paired with a black and white striped shirt, clocked stockings, and pointy-toed flats.  I intended to write a blog post just on the spooky skirt (and a matching witch hat that I neglected to bring to college), but that will have to wait...so here's a preview picture or two:

Spooky Hat
(Materials: cheap velvet, wire, gauze, thread,
plastic skulls, hot glue)

Spooky Skirt
(Materials: glow-in-the-dark fabric,
interfacing, thread, metal skirt closure)

As for other class news, the critique of our basketry samples went well, and now we're moving onto netting.  Oh, and I began a figure skating class, which means of course I'm watching Olympic reruns and dreaming up skating costumes now.  Like I need more projects...

Friday, November 1st

Fridays are my textile studio days!  Not only do I have the graduate/advanced studio seminar (a meeting time for critique and discussing our weekly readings with Professor Janice Lessman-Moss), but every first Friday of the month, there's a visiting artist lecture at noon.  This week featured Wayne Gonzales, visiting artist in drawing and painting.

Afterwards, I spend the rest of the day working...sometimes I don't leave the building until 2 am, which makes for a long (16-hour!?! 10am - 2am) day.  I often do all of my dyeing on Friday nights (since I'm usually guaranteed to have the dye lab all to myself haha), but today I continued to work on sampling.  Here are the two pieces I finished this afternoon:  

Sample #5
Hand-dyed 2-ply wool and 10/2 cotton weft; 5/2 cotton warp.

Sample #6
Same hand-dyed 2-ply wool and 10/2 cotton weft
and 5/2 cotton warp as above.

The plan is to finish sampling this week, and critique at the seminar on Friday.  Then, I'll be planning and prepping for the final project.  

Tonight, I also had the chance to attend two MFA thesis show receptions!  I've had the privilege of getting to know both Nate (MFA in glass) and Erica (MFA in jewelry/metals) through a few textile courses, and it has been an honor to weave side-by-side with such talented artists.  I will miss them both, and wish them all the best in their careers and continuing artistic practices!  

Nate's glass weavings are incredible!  These few pictures of my favorites from the show do not do them justice.  To see more of his work, please visit his website here: Nate Avery Glass

Glass weaving by Nate Avery, MFA.

Glass weaving by Nate Avery, MFA. 

Glass weaving by Nate Avery, MFA.

Erica's multimedia body suits are equally inspiring and just fantastical!  Her woven pieces often feature an array of found materials, and her transformation of "trash" or plastic bags in this costume is beyond words.  On a more personal note, the textiles studio will definitely not be the same without her - she's been so kind and supportive of my own work, in class and late nights at the loom, I will really miss her.  Luckily, you'll find her and be able to follow her work over on Instagram @eurrrca

"Chaosmomalia" body suit by Erica Hoosic, MFA. 

"Chaosmomalia" body suit by Erica Hoosic, MFA.
All of that weaving! 😍 

All in all, a wonderful way to end the week.  See you in the next weekly writings!