tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88265231634169675572024-03-01T05:17:30.215-05:00The SewphisticateSeamstress • Weaver • Living HistorianAnneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.comBlogger237125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-78804861866481410442023-09-20T09:00:00.007-04:002023-09-20T09:00:00.140-04:00Bloom Below & Song Above - 1880s Plaid Bustle Photoshoot<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX1yGntGly96pwMdIphCc3vxwY7rN6LDGunnZ-uoHU7FZd5eJn5FXGw2IXaaXQ0o3LhK22gb87t9XJ_J0jlFLSxXzb1E-0JYP5KemKvCDo_0vNVwGLjQo6lUzfKKkLpBecujhyr41NLzq3gvn-eAOYUq-ybyjwJXf_z0dLUOSh5JkIwC8hVwob-nVrthg/s2000/1880s%20Photoshoot.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1429" data-original-width="2000" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX1yGntGly96pwMdIphCc3vxwY7rN6LDGunnZ-uoHU7FZd5eJn5FXGw2IXaaXQ0o3LhK22gb87t9XJ_J0jlFLSxXzb1E-0JYP5KemKvCDo_0vNVwGLjQo6lUzfKKkLpBecujhyr41NLzq3gvn-eAOYUq-ybyjwJXf_z0dLUOSh5JkIwC8hVwob-nVrthg/w640-h458/1880s%20Photoshoot.png" width="640" /></a></div><p>In the historic village of LeRoy, there is a gazebo along Oatka Creek that I thought would make a lovely location for a photoshoot. After finishing my c.1883-86 plaid dress, my sister, Maria, drove down to help me document the ensemble - followed by lunch at the D&R Depot Restaurant, my treat in thanks for her time and talents behind the camera, of course! </p><p>In the following pictures, you'll see the three-piece ensemble blogged about in two posts, including <a href="https://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2023/09/making-1880s-plaid-ensemble-bodice.html">making the bodice</a>, and the <a href="https://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2023/03/making-1880s-plaid-ensemble-skirt.html">skirts & draperies</a>. These are worn over silk stockings and American Duchess "Renior" button boots, a chemise, corset, <a href="http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2022/06/go-bustle-or-go-home-making-1880s.html">lobster tail bustle</a>, matching <a href="http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2022/11/when-in-doubt-add-another-petticoat.html">underpetticoat</a>, and <a href="http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2022/07/a-pretty-petticoat-making-1880s.html">flounced petticoat</a>. A borrowed hat, braided updo with frizzy bangs, jet earrings, and blueberry leather gloves complete the look. </p><p><b>*All photographs courtesy of Maria M.* </b>Please enjoy our pictures, and the accompanying poem is titled <b>"<a href="https://thenewleafjournal.com/the-poetry-of-charlotte-becker-early-twentieth-century-poet-from-buffalo/">The Balance</a>" by Charlotte Becker</b>, a prolific early-20th century poet from Buffalo, New York.</p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b>Gazebo Photo Series I: </b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><i>If the world were always gay,</i></p><p style="text-align: center;"><i>Mirth to-morrow, jest to-day;</i></p><p style="text-align: center;"><i>All delight without alloy —</i></p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><p style="text-align: center;"><i>What would be the use of joy?</i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhr4c67doT6cqr4u-cFDeKys2yGnyht3YTYv49IAdIYo041oibA00KlBsAvGuVxgNLFTCrCJA1FZFKOf5FENT1AJ1xxVnH0IlblNoahwbGhi7SUQVl6xkI5fagtLbmZsh6InOasy20qc-4RrjlVUL8tt-V1lG0S2mRWG3VQAYLuzWXwb7mQWSZ9AP4LFo/s3963/Gazebo%201.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE5HV24SsnZZtnHvZogVvidKNOLxHwpbfNiTS45s3y__RjEEF-zcHbcANqSE6OYHYerYUWs6Yr2nSj_4_J_Iw_ihdsAMI5C67LpsKTZiwv2vi0S2xg4EHIbP8KqvvAYu0oYf5EonBQwktonYXJf5FhuAxwIYKcYNvWxPeKmXCMKYuLIAuwaRwWNe8cOY8/s3589/Gazebo%2010.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3589" data-original-width="2692" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE5HV24SsnZZtnHvZogVvidKNOLxHwpbfNiTS45s3y__RjEEF-zcHbcANqSE6OYHYerYUWs6Yr2nSj_4_J_Iw_ihdsAMI5C67LpsKTZiwv2vi0S2xg4EHIbP8KqvvAYu0oYf5EonBQwktonYXJf5FhuAxwIYKcYNvWxPeKmXCMKYuLIAuwaRwWNe8cOY8/w480-h640/Gazebo%2010.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJy2olUAZzyHnEKcfV-8mvq3-2HOVoKk75cXMiNi3tKB9XC4LQC1f9NGV6AJAxfgTvT7E1FxdroMNtIXp9vw__TPT1mh148s19ObSrLA68qzPkN3HOUNb6sr7jypoQKH2XiznPIcOEcScj86pge-KgjgDnJmtPwfC1bw66sGDS-PWTnuqmMDqfvMGo3iA/s3335/Gazebo%209.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3335" data-original-width="2501" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJy2olUAZzyHnEKcfV-8mvq3-2HOVoKk75cXMiNi3tKB9XC4LQC1f9NGV6AJAxfgTvT7E1FxdroMNtIXp9vw__TPT1mh148s19ObSrLA68qzPkN3HOUNb6sr7jypoQKH2XiznPIcOEcScj86pge-KgjgDnJmtPwfC1bw66sGDS-PWTnuqmMDqfvMGo3iA/w480-h640/Gazebo%209.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p style="text-align: left;"><b>Staircase Photo Series II:</b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><i>If the world were always sad,</i></p><p style="text-align: center;"><i>Care and grief the meed we had,</i></p><p style="text-align: center;"><i>Doubt and fear the only gain —</i></p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><p style="text-align: center;"><i>What would be the use of pain?</i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifkkXRa6ah8GBr2k39y8ikKCFQrtrXjz98HTbdT-_PC07Ntosm91nEGOyR83_DGp1X2fKgTa7SEWihaFSsATgSK2P0ZEVSBxjaX0SS5wRMbGspIZqmQiKruBYTK9b5Pqwqtyv-WjWS6xdyF3mSAMuGbHl_hZ92hN0cfMlHH5ZAdGYlFfWlZEWHNTSFpXU/s3348/Staircase%203.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3348" data-original-width="2511" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifkkXRa6ah8GBr2k39y8ikKCFQrtrXjz98HTbdT-_PC07Ntosm91nEGOyR83_DGp1X2fKgTa7SEWihaFSsATgSK2P0ZEVSBxjaX0SS5wRMbGspIZqmQiKruBYTK9b5Pqwqtyv-WjWS6xdyF3mSAMuGbHl_hZ92hN0cfMlHH5ZAdGYlFfWlZEWHNTSFpXU/w480-h640/Staircase%203.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_YHjDALy-qbrhUgsEYZbVhw-yYc404xU1GrW4KTOLBGc4EZsMx5nURcc-gqQmMuNJcW9qsZViHMt87luFXOtDll2WM6-mJpGR3msSGb_ts5xirLFig-c_mOJ3ah82RfbqUm6H25FTWA-miLTBX5Mg45XOwpyXa_HKqum8u5UB7FATh_GAwgGajYrRNsc/s3570/Staircase%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3570" data-original-width="2678" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_YHjDALy-qbrhUgsEYZbVhw-yYc404xU1GrW4KTOLBGc4EZsMx5nURcc-gqQmMuNJcW9qsZViHMt87luFXOtDll2WM6-mJpGR3msSGb_ts5xirLFig-c_mOJ3ah82RfbqUm6H25FTWA-miLTBX5Mg45XOwpyXa_HKqum8u5UB7FATh_GAwgGajYrRNsc/w480-h640/Staircase%202.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFcJfh2bxnl6B71D3S3LCPE5RiqGBLzNb-gxg0sTZCuF2L1hP_nylCUF8094_cclQPl-DhTWFZ36L7q9XMZT9STXLHLJe91kAmAnyX5Y4w4T39yGwvfr4EPP_agJ4oZBUL5H1pa8GKiv-dci_nnVjkc9m--VhYznIQ9oVTVcdUr5tZFkZT7038TZobpOo/s3896/Gazebo%205.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3896" data-original-width="2922" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFcJfh2bxnl6B71D3S3LCPE5RiqGBLzNb-gxg0sTZCuF2L1hP_nylCUF8094_cclQPl-DhTWFZ36L7q9XMZT9STXLHLJe91kAmAnyX5Y4w4T39yGwvfr4EPP_agJ4oZBUL5H1pa8GKiv-dci_nnVjkc9m--VhYznIQ9oVTVcdUr5tZFkZT7038TZobpOo/w480-h640/Gazebo%205.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ji_fAO28hCNWCWeFdoHsVxiPpHB1d0JHR3yQqpWxK_gHatoajV_2NNsdPtkFF8layO-IMILwMpLIjajDQ6Clcr4DmGRx3_gSg8yhxndk1pa3iqYG4MsZhb-nJVSMTUKq_j3dwTXKw4hu6zNX5N-NTEBZcr0b8KBDZChNGU9CZ0ZOelNznr6dmbqM5Xg/s3773/Cherry%20Blossom%202.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjevV0LzlrQn0cCt9tBoVcvfiFPJvAjKzaA5SrvsndgYQfMbL9KivhY9lXIy1B_KBQQ8WeJAcwkoCnYmLa07111hYdQ66ym4nkzzBJw1FrIlTb3K7rtDZhALXFWALSLGu0_6mRfLaJ9HGuMaI3F__1K-LzVrJMAExvRbMnro2wFu-7S3JJ6uYuZjSy29Zg/s3416/Cherry%20Blossom%204.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3416" data-original-width="2564" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjevV0LzlrQn0cCt9tBoVcvfiFPJvAjKzaA5SrvsndgYQfMbL9KivhY9lXIy1B_KBQQ8WeJAcwkoCnYmLa07111hYdQ66ym4nkzzBJw1FrIlTb3K7rtDZhALXFWALSLGu0_6mRfLaJ9HGuMaI3F__1K-LzVrJMAExvRbMnro2wFu-7S3JJ6uYuZjSy29Zg/w480-h640/Cherry%20Blossom%204.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p><i>Like what you see here and want to support the creation of future content, historical costumes, and fashion history programming? 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Not only did I finish the ensemble last Spring, I've worn it to two events - presenting "Getting Dressed in the 1880s" at the Niagara County Federation of Historical Agencies, and Spring Teas at the Rich-Twinn Octagon House. In fact, I'll be doing another 1880s "Getting Dressed" program in November for the Wilson Historical Society, and will probably bring it out again with some new accessories.</p><p></p><p>So, for our next installment in the 1880s plaid ensemble series, today I present: making the bodice! (The other blog posts in the series include: making the <a href="https://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2023/03/making-1880s-plaid-ensemble-skirt.html">skirt & draperies</a>, <a href="http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2022/06/go-bustle-or-go-home-making-1880s.html">lobster tail bustle</a>, <a href="http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2022/11/when-in-doubt-add-another-petticoat.html">underpetticoat</a>, and <a href="http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2022/07/a-pretty-petticoat-making-1880s.html">flounced petticoat</a>)</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJm7U4j8MADHJlMKDfrAowR8B7rR-OwJxCejykhDJhte_9HdwDlE0aU5jtvCFc_tyMBvUvJb426Uzm0RlgeG93Mu2D_YMdWBcSTz-IJpmj_1wgrXRjcjB30WkehvhZG4B0QQNL5WTVPUcjad87mgp5EP5mBBPa_I2bBHIrbcM8AmW9U6qSh2VPf60R9tY/s2000/Making%20an%201880s%20Bodice.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1429" data-original-width="2000" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJm7U4j8MADHJlMKDfrAowR8B7rR-OwJxCejykhDJhte_9HdwDlE0aU5jtvCFc_tyMBvUvJb426Uzm0RlgeG93Mu2D_YMdWBcSTz-IJpmj_1wgrXRjcjB30WkehvhZG4B0QQNL5WTVPUcjad87mgp5EP5mBBPa_I2bBHIrbcM8AmW9U6qSh2VPf60R9tY/w640-h458/Making%20an%201880s%20Bodice.png" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This project certainly took me out of my early/mid-19th century costume comfort zone, as bodices in the 1880s are longer and more tailored, featuring curve-hugging seams and pleats that flare out over the bustle. After several mock-ups and pattern corrections, I ended up with a jacket-like bodice featuring a velvet front inlay, collar, and cuffs, which matched the deep navy in the plaid cotton.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u>Construction Details</u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Since I detailed the historical inspiration for this project in my previous post, we'll dive right into the construction of the bodice. As a starting point, I traced the bodice pieces from Truly Victorian's <a href="https://trulyvictorian.info/index.php/product/tv463-1884-french-vest-bodice/">1884 French Vest Bodice (TV463)</a> and selected the princess-length sleeve (which falls between the 3/4 and full-length sleeve). Since I don't have a go-to late Victorian bodice block, and my dress form is too large for me to drape on, Truly Victorian patterns are a great place to start - but this bodice needed a whole <i>lot </i>of alterations to fit! I also drafted a new collar and cuff pattern to fit with my design. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6JJcBINPjd0fooxAX3JsOdH6e9sJMXZeT-DpDph-HmKFr33fPQ59W4Un9KLR99pBgGkJ7wdHeOyCGj7THO5AZzYJqGrWiQsruBLdvM6fbyWlgCKSrZh0ba3FvpdeMri5xwDAwUEGsgZUPYiX9g4C8K8yKnMSoY7MpMPTqulgUhy9nliwAuRlZLmjbVfQ/s4020/Pattern.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4020" data-original-width="3004" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6JJcBINPjd0fooxAX3JsOdH6e9sJMXZeT-DpDph-HmKFr33fPQ59W4Un9KLR99pBgGkJ7wdHeOyCGj7THO5AZzYJqGrWiQsruBLdvM6fbyWlgCKSrZh0ba3FvpdeMri5xwDAwUEGsgZUPYiX9g4C8K8yKnMSoY7MpMPTqulgUhy9nliwAuRlZLmjbVfQ/w299-h400/Pattern.JPG" width="299" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1880s bodices had lots of pattern pieces -<br />I love using the 1" grid pattern interfacing, which helps with alterations in patterning;<br />and keeping fabric grainlines straight and matching plaids when cutting.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>I can't remember the exact number of mock-ups this project took, but it was a ridiculously frustrating number...all of the pieces needed shortening lengthwise; the shoulders, neckline, and armscyes needed adjustments; darts and seams needed to be moved; and the hip areas needed widening to fit over the large bustle. I also shortened the sleeves, so the elbow fit better, and drafted cuffs and a new collar with a 1" overlap at the front. It might have been faster to draft a bodice block using a period manual, than the many paper pattern adjustments and mock-ups. At least now I have a working pattern, which hopefully I can use again! <div><br /></div><div>I used leftover canvas for my mock-ups to mimic how structural the finished bodice will be with interlining, lining, and boning at each of the seams. I found this also prevented stretching that might have happened with the single-layer muslin I typically use:<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfoQzLAFoXMo-N-swlqZjwol4dX39oqA25WdG3OCjSmhKEFH_Gw-dqez9zawakYO7WN1F98x54YYChgesv2iej1Ug28woT2OjmaiRw-ep3pG08OIR1ED5rZUs8KVjrWD0NU7lakv9BSeYHEHFAAt5HlrwFQQrQyY5iHR1hDK9soJ-UFr57f-DDOPSKSAc/s2858/Mock%20Up%20(1).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2858" data-original-width="2858" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfoQzLAFoXMo-N-swlqZjwol4dX39oqA25WdG3OCjSmhKEFH_Gw-dqez9zawakYO7WN1F98x54YYChgesv2iej1Ug28woT2OjmaiRw-ep3pG08OIR1ED5rZUs8KVjrWD0NU7lakv9BSeYHEHFAAt5HlrwFQQrQyY5iHR1hDK9soJ-UFr57f-DDOPSKSAc/w400-h400/Mock%20Up%20(1).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Truly Victorian's 1884 French Vest Bodice mock-up.<br /><i>This pattern needed soo many adjustments - next time I would rather draft a block.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1epVZfLn8Dvv_q80JQutBYqTfQ1ST4_HjcstN9C0y5e9uT8jNMSn73-EeIJdx6PidM367W3sL_pgxWBzWG1Da22B65DnLXU18ih0nqXv8ax6ZhF3cCYPtsSDAhS-goMtMfPMwuO5RS21ktCjWqZUdTwL1tq6AuDiCefuUcEeUvInhp5yOPfVqYERH4w4/s3008/Mock%20Up%20(2).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2957" data-original-width="3008" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1epVZfLn8Dvv_q80JQutBYqTfQ1ST4_HjcstN9C0y5e9uT8jNMSn73-EeIJdx6PidM367W3sL_pgxWBzWG1Da22B65DnLXU18ih0nqXv8ax6ZhF3cCYPtsSDAhS-goMtMfPMwuO5RS21ktCjWqZUdTwL1tq6AuDiCefuUcEeUvInhp5yOPfVqYERH4w4/w400-h394/Mock%20Up%20(2).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mock-up from the back - I do love the curved princess seams and pleats at the back!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb8sWWyTJFhMnlKT6P9elYA0tBaUneaTu-GPH74ID9JUGg8k294vxCrZtTsOb97u_6AYdNlGP_8fIebtQi3Fafu078vAVNa6Vr_Wtw6idSRsP4HTjwVTFNcE_glt6KE29fbOzu9wmtUInLiusfVZqCSLmk-Z8ZmrX7GV3WKNAibARHrPPbVp7whMQshgk/s4032/Mock%20Up%20(3).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2902" data-original-width="4032" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb8sWWyTJFhMnlKT6P9elYA0tBaUneaTu-GPH74ID9JUGg8k294vxCrZtTsOb97u_6AYdNlGP_8fIebtQi3Fafu078vAVNa6Vr_Wtw6idSRsP4HTjwVTFNcE_glt6KE29fbOzu9wmtUInLiusfVZqCSLmk-Z8ZmrX7GV3WKNAibARHrPPbVp7whMQshgk/w400-h288/Mock%20Up%20(3).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another view of the back laid flat - here you can see just how many pieces these late Victorian bodices had! <br />Notice how all of the pieces are perfectly shaped to the body.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2818" data-original-width="3977" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6aLhz-w4mm309-CeMyVqEDtFDbUIRpJJPMq3wUFO1hov1Fjlsz1Xe9I2qNnTRME_edfP9LdNhOyLOrAx24PnioWOsS0DeG-wCJpFLG4MGTLmnoGh3Duv4L4XYZsUQ-mjaJnDDvKLN7NzCGTnN0HacL-ZUPgsrPaJKxexRHKz-pVsCbNVQJaGkt8Adenc/w400-h284/Mock%20Up%20(4).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I do clip and notch my seams even on mock-ups, <br />as well as thread-trace where finishings (hems, center front closures, etc.)<br />will be to get the best idea of how the finished version will fit.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After all of the mock-ups and doing the final corrections to the pattern pieces, I was finally ready to cut the fashion fabric. The grid pattern interfacing made matching plaids and keeping the grainline parallel a breeze - and I totally recommend <a href="https://www.joann.com/tru-grid-graph-material-45-in-wide-25-yards/2988335.html">Pellon's Tru-Grid</a> for your more finicky projects. I keep a bolt right by my cutting table, along with regular pattern paper and another bolt of cheap muslin.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I cut the bodice pieces from the same woven plaid cotton as the skirt and draperies, and used a sturdy cotton twill as the lining. I cut the "vest" fronts, cuffs, and collar from matching navy velvet, which is a pain to work with, as well as corresponding cotton twill linings. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFdAcquFrsev9hkAHmN7TORn9nA3eHibb6FtXL0DoDfSd1cKpqcOHGn3sqjUXidF7zFZms4_lrBfMUISXeipirdhTDJwQ4phuhVVyW9ta9PzVxU0D0GsRYVYK7o2YuGJ00LC20--xMK7ibdrn-nHz2xHy3mfJucKmPApy507_OjMivNp0B4TOTbd2b_j0/s3024/Cutting.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFdAcquFrsev9hkAHmN7TORn9nA3eHibb6FtXL0DoDfSd1cKpqcOHGn3sqjUXidF7zFZms4_lrBfMUISXeipirdhTDJwQ4phuhVVyW9ta9PzVxU0D0GsRYVYK7o2YuGJ00LC20--xMK7ibdrn-nHz2xHy3mfJucKmPApy507_OjMivNp0B4TOTbd2b_j0/w400-h400/Cutting.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cutting the fashion fabric, which is a navy, rust, and white woven plaid cotton.<br />The lining is a sturdy, white cotton twill.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Once all of the pieces were cut out, I flat lined the fashion fabric and lining to treat them as one piece, and stitched all of the side seams. With all of the curves, there was a lot of clipping and notching needed for the seams to lay flat, so I also hand-overcast all of the raw edges to prevent fraying. </div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFDuGQ0dtIHlUve6hYbkK5wQUO7wTppfiY3KEOEMcctNrWj4R1AaAh5IdCmoLfz7_WsAASf3J-4DvpGhg1RaMlMttUmawfWqn2GGK0ZuiCPMYLrDT53iXVoSQ4Q8JbbGwhh-iuHvWfVaxxTMg_ijsTCxdpQleJI30E-PJroSZq_HYrzgfIVXsP8hpaSK0/s3024/Sewing.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFDuGQ0dtIHlUve6hYbkK5wQUO7wTppfiY3KEOEMcctNrWj4R1AaAh5IdCmoLfz7_WsAASf3J-4DvpGhg1RaMlMttUmawfWqn2GGK0ZuiCPMYLrDT53iXVoSQ4Q8JbbGwhh-iuHvWfVaxxTMg_ijsTCxdpQleJI30E-PJroSZq_HYrzgfIVXsP8hpaSK0/w400-h400/Sewing.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After flat lining the fashion fabric and lining, all of the side seams were stitched,<br />pressed open, notched, and overcast by hand to prevent fraying. <br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Next, I turned my attention to the cuffs and sleeves. The sleeves were lined with the same cotton lawn as the drapery to keep the sleeves from being too stiff. The cuffs were finished the same way as the velvet "vest" fronts, and the collar, which is one of my favorite ways of neatly finishing edges. First, stitch the side seams of the cuffs. Line up the outer cuff edges, and stitch right sides together. Grade seams to reduce bulk, clipping curves as needed, and understitch the lining so it won't show. Slightly roll the lining seam to the inside, and press well. </div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxelCpBnl3UHqSZwjDl7uNsTwE-lXbHbOha2PvJx-arE-bWQmJ3Ut0119Mj-mn_0XJ4qfANy_3FOaOG4476I_35Oirn3IcgzzJoBCp5eLtyPkIJ9JU4VakLilK6yZ-0z5HynXG4SKlUJQyOi8sC6OfDsRaWKZJd0rVjkIiv-oeylzh1zvUIxXB1i6EVBc/s3024/Cuffs%20(1).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxelCpBnl3UHqSZwjDl7uNsTwE-lXbHbOha2PvJx-arE-bWQmJ3Ut0119Mj-mn_0XJ4qfANy_3FOaOG4476I_35Oirn3IcgzzJoBCp5eLtyPkIJ9JU4VakLilK6yZ-0z5HynXG4SKlUJQyOi8sC6OfDsRaWKZJd0rVjkIiv-oeylzh1zvUIxXB1i6EVBc/w400-h400/Cuffs%20(1).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Preparing the cuffs to attach to the sleeves.<br />Understitching helps keep the lining tidy and hidden on the inside.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>These sleeve cuffs are intended to be simple folding cuffs, so all I had to do was attach them to the sleeves, right side to wrong side, and fold them out for a clean finish. The collar was attached to the bodice the same way, and I used a bias-cut strip of cotton muslin as a facing. </div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYrbe0rfVquI3U2t0W-Jzyvip4_oIp2PV6av5ldZOqlRhD56F3CeZVtPi3PIDxdhDmsMYLG0P-lKf4DDEt2CssJdJBC2zazZ_ibGPu2-xCkH36vnJRoV6iinsI1atOg8iUDe1nFYCUSOwL3WbunOn4YSXsvpde9XerCtHAgBPGHIjU8Gr5Y_UvHmVtkOo/s3024/Cuffs%20(2).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYrbe0rfVquI3U2t0W-Jzyvip4_oIp2PV6av5ldZOqlRhD56F3CeZVtPi3PIDxdhDmsMYLG0P-lKf4DDEt2CssJdJBC2zazZ_ibGPu2-xCkH36vnJRoV6iinsI1atOg8iUDe1nFYCUSOwL3WbunOn4YSXsvpde9XerCtHAgBPGHIjU8Gr5Y_UvHmVtkOo/w400-h400/Cuffs%20(2).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Attaching the velvet sleeve cuffs.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>To finish the interior of the bodice, I added boning cases to each of the side seams. I used 6 spiral steels to support the curves. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijYg0gH2O9MLfBuF8T-QEfmInW4fqBOaV4yZfKjA7DmWXWUE3Gcy3YNtOUC4GCPczs5lX3YG7k45ed1JUH3tW5rzyMKf15wB71b36IaZ3OpjfHYVEnKZqWOxUi0TC2X8InxXYgJ00qVKY2nrkhbteOtuq_vL9y3xgWpGIA40jEmYbIMA9dKUrnJKqpURQ/s3024/In%20Progress%20(2).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijYg0gH2O9MLfBuF8T-QEfmInW4fqBOaV4yZfKjA7DmWXWUE3Gcy3YNtOUC4GCPczs5lX3YG7k45ed1JUH3tW5rzyMKf15wB71b36IaZ3OpjfHYVEnKZqWOxUi0TC2X8InxXYgJ00qVKY2nrkhbteOtuq_vL9y3xgWpGIA40jEmYbIMA9dKUrnJKqpURQ/w400-h400/In%20Progress%20(2).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interior of the bodice in progress, showing bone casings with spiral steels.<br />The hem of the bodice was also finished with a bias facing, much like the neckline.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div>I was on a tight deadline, and apparently didn't take pictures after this point - but I did finish the pleats, and secured the raw edges with twill tape. I put a bias facing around the entire hem to finish the bottom edge; and stitched around 2-dozen small, metal hooks and thread eyes to close the bodice. Two additional hooks and thread eyes close the overlapping velvet collar. </div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLlnZu1ybd8lrcB7QIoZ3_XLTLn-srtYvj3aFHNQ7j-7OOven2QreLd-u3jB_mKP5KxjGSqbJQNmwXQQpIPxV9AwYyb9TOjaKa6gJG6pPPli5scHkAMih2wo_AIrIf1gyUc5FLez_ZmrXvaxeOPPcqv9iUa7Epd1rW5oMaEwZycbS-CB5Rf9QxMi9Kf9s/s3018/In%20Progress%20(1).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3018" data-original-width="3018" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLlnZu1ybd8lrcB7QIoZ3_XLTLn-srtYvj3aFHNQ7j-7OOven2QreLd-u3jB_mKP5KxjGSqbJQNmwXQQpIPxV9AwYyb9TOjaKa6gJG6pPPli5scHkAMih2wo_AIrIf1gyUc5FLez_ZmrXvaxeOPPcqv9iUa7Epd1rW5oMaEwZycbS-CB5Rf9QxMi9Kf9s/w400-h400/In%20Progress%20(1).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front view of the bodice in progress - almost done!<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm6vBz_7Va_TSNND4jnDqJo-2_PlV5vFZlYpD5Q-KDj1CPwUE1Pa9wmTF1tO4ZoZYuxzNP2WrHBkUajAOpF4B1PjyTChtuQ3SIyoPXqSupdQK_gHvsvRPUhqtRzQENNPUqGzjE6-1vEoyyFvnBztrPu6y04o9vW2HOfGhP75Duhmi6I5rwBRFqYM1ZJYw/s3937/In%20Progress%20(4).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3937" data-original-width="2953" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm6vBz_7Va_TSNND4jnDqJo-2_PlV5vFZlYpD5Q-KDj1CPwUE1Pa9wmTF1tO4ZoZYuxzNP2WrHBkUajAOpF4B1PjyTChtuQ3SIyoPXqSupdQK_gHvsvRPUhqtRzQENNPUqGzjE6-1vEoyyFvnBztrPu6y04o9vW2HOfGhP75Duhmi6I5rwBRFqYM1ZJYw/w300-h400/In%20Progress%20(4).JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bodice in progress, side view looking sharp!<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHC-IeJWL6_rW65_StZbrveyvO2TGvaHeyzWXguIT5UOPIiBzsyxOuVjsQKt5Rlrxr6cbuH9SZXEBnsREjdebqBH6Hc4227ZuX4IBiEsl8hr_XJ_eAqOlbRzamx-I20t0_BREpRtePhLzQ1ffUkanocKh8jpMm2wpMIzUW8ckXuaXH0Fx2qVQVwkllvAQ/s3942/In%20Progress%20(3).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3942" data-original-width="2958" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHC-IeJWL6_rW65_StZbrveyvO2TGvaHeyzWXguIT5UOPIiBzsyxOuVjsQKt5Rlrxr6cbuH9SZXEBnsREjdebqBH6Hc4227ZuX4IBiEsl8hr_XJ_eAqOlbRzamx-I20t0_BREpRtePhLzQ1ffUkanocKh8jpMm2wpMIzUW8ckXuaXH0Fx2qVQVwkllvAQ/w300-h400/In%20Progress%20(3).JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view of the bodice in progress -<br />adding the boning created ripples along the back side seams...<br /><i>does anyone have suggestions for avoiding this in the future?<br />I'm thinking of boning the center back, only, and not the curved side seams again!<br /><br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As is period practice, I added a waist stay, which is a 1" cotton twill tape strip tacked at the waistline to help take strain off of the bodice seams at the waist, and to keep the bodice from shifting while wearing. I also added a metal hook and thread eye for a closure. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And with that, we have a finished 1880s plaid bodice with velvet accents!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSkgAibi5fjHpTDm3MoOz_WTWXbwImx3vkUDegBYuSeUtY-OVywuPWndbhJHhws9ZyZZSM2Ks6LIrrnE8hYqCa__B2B-ZrkzFVKQf9IP78JoOvHoaS1XczPC5PZ9geNA0y_9V8x-xl66iYlE9an024nA61Ev3ikokbd2QAncNiuN9w-mArVIRKEyUaMQQ/s3799/Front%20-%20Bodice%20Detail.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3799" data-original-width="2849" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSkgAibi5fjHpTDm3MoOz_WTWXbwImx3vkUDegBYuSeUtY-OVywuPWndbhJHhws9ZyZZSM2Ks6LIrrnE8hYqCa__B2B-ZrkzFVKQf9IP78JoOvHoaS1XczPC5PZ9geNA0y_9V8x-xl66iYlE9an024nA61Ev3ikokbd2QAncNiuN9w-mArVIRKEyUaMQQ/w300-h400/Front%20-%20Bodice%20Detail.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished bodice, view of the front<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgafOLvvXJSn6BE5tyfi_IPKvQPjo5He-wwpmPxTK2k518EwX11LIoJYNGOHOHHfdInftAFgX9ECFF7_eH2jI0XVDS8gEs71fCDnuFNosBmjUz-4WmY3D5uMDNxpqF0VZgrke_tIknjwXDxuaqAwjmQgZx4KN_pBJYWOmx5KU-Mvk2o3V-_YN2TyjCzoeI/s3494/Back%20-%20Bodice%20Detail.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3494" data-original-width="2620" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgafOLvvXJSn6BE5tyfi_IPKvQPjo5He-wwpmPxTK2k518EwX11LIoJYNGOHOHHfdInftAFgX9ECFF7_eH2jI0XVDS8gEs71fCDnuFNosBmjUz-4WmY3D5uMDNxpqF0VZgrke_tIknjwXDxuaqAwjmQgZx4KN_pBJYWOmx5KU-Mvk2o3V-_YN2TyjCzoeI/w300-h400/Back%20-%20Bodice%20Detail.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished bodice, view of the back<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b>American Duchess "Renoir" Scalloped Button Boots </b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With the completion of this 1880s project from undergarments to day dress, and to celebrate journeying into a new era, I treated myself to something I've always wanted - <i>American Duchess </i>boots! Specifically, the <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/renoir-victorian-button-boots-brown?variant=37773235978390">"Renior" scalloped, Victorian button boots in brown</a>, which I've drooled over since they were first released. American Duchess footwear is really out of my price range, but on par with other historical footwear pricing - <i>and worth every penny in my book! </i>I made a special allowance this time, and used the speaker fees from both Spring programs to cover most of the cost. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The buttons are difficult (but not impossible) to button by hand, and is much faster with the aid of a <a href="https://www.americanduchess.com/products/reproduction-victorian-button-hook?variant=35800080941206">reproduction button hook</a>, also sold by American Duchess: </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPvUMVp88ygY54Wczf4apUj0F-LlbCQcFtBWKAgDOISecHWcaUcg0g4cKx5OvCy247frDy3W1-IgRkErksX_tly1iVLwe43OwLeN_LcoacUAoaUZWKauJQC5xX17MWZefs2EnThXrglfA2uGMTmHMVQvCe9QCS48Sfeox-5j8ogvkP7uPdUsYWVNEEo4w/s2890/American%20Duchess%20Boots%202.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2890" data-original-width="2890" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPvUMVp88ygY54Wczf4apUj0F-LlbCQcFtBWKAgDOISecHWcaUcg0g4cKx5OvCy247frDy3W1-IgRkErksX_tly1iVLwe43OwLeN_LcoacUAoaUZWKauJQC5xX17MWZefs2EnThXrglfA2uGMTmHMVQvCe9QCS48Sfeox-5j8ogvkP7uPdUsYWVNEEo4w/w400-h400/American%20Duchess%20Boots%202.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using a reproduction button hook to put on my "Renior" button boots from <i>American Duchess</i>!</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHrLaljQJpytYqsBP0VaIoB9YQMdABco_4k9gEyXfov3v91I6drLIv2_qszHwoFzVfE8OxeSA23EV1_GInLyrMywefcttjCIwyvvi5Kh580In5FSYDw6SDK9ASQrCymAdslm-8s-f_TQ8SrTgQvcyYXJIYBB_dPxiQMYxF2TbtO1NXF5eHQjRRJpldJAw/s3531/American%20Duchess%20Boots.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3531" data-original-width="2825" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHrLaljQJpytYqsBP0VaIoB9YQMdABco_4k9gEyXfov3v91I6drLIv2_qszHwoFzVfE8OxeSA23EV1_GInLyrMywefcttjCIwyvvi5Kh580In5FSYDw6SDK9ASQrCymAdslm-8s-f_TQ8SrTgQvcyYXJIYBB_dPxiQMYxF2TbtO1NXF5eHQjRRJpldJAw/w320-h400/American%20Duchess%20Boots.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Overall, I'm really happy with this investment - having the proper footwear is important to me during "Getting Dressed" programs, when showing an ensemble from boots to bonnet, or head to toes. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u><br /></u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u><br /></u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u>Completed Project Pictures</u></b> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And now, for the finished, three-piece c.1883-1886 plaid ensemble: </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcjGB0gS82y2HmmkUoWJLrkXWNrTSmOsCbU7YCxeeb9sfGdnQhKlMtYPKMgVWb0s9owH6bhk7Fsuymw4bhFs0ykQKtrgQJYadz3tONSezYEs17kGcS00O8RVIEDfNrSg8aMEDexUsuEyTYoNE7gY96-gXlOuXz8FBM9ZZGTMZLcTsUuWLEQ6BzHTJ3LlI/s3717/Front.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3717" data-original-width="2788" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcjGB0gS82y2HmmkUoWJLrkXWNrTSmOsCbU7YCxeeb9sfGdnQhKlMtYPKMgVWb0s9owH6bhk7Fsuymw4bhFs0ykQKtrgQJYadz3tONSezYEs17kGcS00O8RVIEDfNrSg8aMEDexUsuEyTYoNE7gY96-gXlOuXz8FBM9ZZGTMZLcTsUuWLEQ6BzHTJ3LlI/w480-h640/Front.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHZ_39ijbEJEYvtCT6bHaG8BjUCHj6ArcJt3i8zFqCVo-A0oy_LXWmFw7z-8ej0xoe_GTQg1EVNI68wnG__ADu7mSOn2QZBzWCm3-V0j4DGNOMIr-EMSxGJBX2Bbqh6IydMvoc5XUQkBj8MarSAJxpdn6DbUzvX6EzVJXSeHQLZExB18JpNbPXIu0HNao/s3758/Side%201%20A.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3758" data-original-width="2819" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHZ_39ijbEJEYvtCT6bHaG8BjUCHj6ArcJt3i8zFqCVo-A0oy_LXWmFw7z-8ej0xoe_GTQg1EVNI68wnG__ADu7mSOn2QZBzWCm3-V0j4DGNOMIr-EMSxGJBX2Bbqh6IydMvoc5XUQkBj8MarSAJxpdn6DbUzvX6EzVJXSeHQLZExB18JpNbPXIu0HNao/w480-h640/Side%201%20A.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTQFFmE12gX8Rpu6vakDFw63EE2quyY3jGq6GTz_x7gtNVu66oclPdoTsMsBJ7ITCel0l4zQEVqa0Sz2VjlJ34s7QsrrfWkMAGscCv621K4cD991UnewVzDp1ZD-nrt4C_sjLX7Rr7AhehL32cB4eGqLhVr0dnUgzhEY_zneq_BD0Am5wGOTxHWNacdYI/s3741/Side%201%20C.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3741" data-original-width="2806" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTQFFmE12gX8Rpu6vakDFw63EE2quyY3jGq6GTz_x7gtNVu66oclPdoTsMsBJ7ITCel0l4zQEVqa0Sz2VjlJ34s7QsrrfWkMAGscCv621K4cD991UnewVzDp1ZD-nrt4C_sjLX7Rr7AhehL32cB4eGqLhVr0dnUgzhEY_zneq_BD0Am5wGOTxHWNacdYI/w480-h640/Side%201%20C.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDlzkm7w1tauZiRstJFkg5GKD-8Qi_AKVVe1i_IsB9GxTDSfAXiz7xlLSPhCp-L1a_u7Wdv46ZiJyok-beFc1Wt47ap8nK18UfOc96UbVlBqdYibt2JHlBG2uaZ8fmsC2Av-Htz1EGUx_QNqhQjPygv2jXZUm5ruSvhomNlfa5qaDC7-J85TmEJSIbblA/s3766/Side%201%20B.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3766" data-original-width="2824" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDlzkm7w1tauZiRstJFkg5GKD-8Qi_AKVVe1i_IsB9GxTDSfAXiz7xlLSPhCp-L1a_u7Wdv46ZiJyok-beFc1Wt47ap8nK18UfOc96UbVlBqdYibt2JHlBG2uaZ8fmsC2Av-Htz1EGUx_QNqhQjPygv2jXZUm5ruSvhomNlfa5qaDC7-J85TmEJSIbblA/w480-h640/Side%201%20B.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I still want to make a matching velvet hat for the ensemble (hopefully before the November program), and maybe add velvet lapels to the bodice, and lace trim at the neckline and sleeve cuffs. But otherwise, we're calling this project DONE -<i> and I already have a million ideas for the next bustle dress(es)! </i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Shortly after its completion, Maria, my sister and often photographer, came down to photo shoot with me in the historic town of LeRoy. I'll share the results in a separate post this week, since this is already quite picture heavy! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><i>Like what you see here and want to support the creation of future content, historical costumes, and fashion history programming? Consider joining us over on Patreon with pledges starting at $2/month, and you'll also unlock exclusive content like bonus blog posts and more! Follow @youngsewphisticate on Facebook & Instagram for regular updates.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b>Thank you for reading & special thanks to our generous patrons!</b></div></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-57690828725725946362023-03-11T09:00:00.000-05:002023-03-11T09:00:00.202-05:00A Beribboned Cap & Tasseled Slippers<p>Following on the heels <i>(sorry, couldn't resist the shoe pun!) </i>of my last blog post on the Making on an 1820s Morning Dress, I wanted to spotlight the two accessories that really made the ensemble complete: the beribboned cap and slippers with bow clips and hand-dyed tassels! </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-I8UVxOSS928wYnLaUamEJzAeU-hfnQfd6Kt0BqF-C_ScoO6WaWIMgTbHFExiiN8U98-32TqqtUv4o11OCyP89X0x0m92RhgUHo-B_IWrfvLnyOetIVDzIVVB60dMVm-vxjQY6LeE8-zc_0-F94uPITIusGcHaoPSZMzvKxqmRYNVePX_LxCbyYil/s3730/1820s%20Polkadot%20Wrapper%20(1).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3730" data-original-width="2098" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-I8UVxOSS928wYnLaUamEJzAeU-hfnQfd6Kt0BqF-C_ScoO6WaWIMgTbHFExiiN8U98-32TqqtUv4o11OCyP89X0x0m92RhgUHo-B_IWrfvLnyOetIVDzIVVB60dMVm-vxjQY6LeE8-zc_0-F94uPITIusGcHaoPSZMzvKxqmRYNVePX_LxCbyYil/w360-h640/1820s%20Polkadot%20Wrapper%20(1).JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>More is more with ruffles, ribbons, and bows! </i></td></tr></tbody></table><b><u><br />Beribboned cap</u></b><div><br /></div><div>If you've been following me for a while, you know I'm all about those big, ruffly, and beribboned caps of the Regency through Romantic eras! I don't think I'll ever tire of making or wearing them...they're just so <i>ridiculous </i>and period. Anyways, this post is to show what a little wired ribbon can do to instantly transform a cap! </div><div><br /></div><div>While mine was <i>not</i> intended to be a replica - this portrait of Mrs. Miller captures the look I was going for oh so well: down to the double ruffles and pink ribbons!</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOd_UoflIbYqShURTaDqT3ubUTEnQGwWZQQrOQFEn3_5-U3S3Uan6C_00lo4YqDcjdb1djrD2hd25CUWlLBhHSRtszgtjsbN3r_mAyNj8XmuanpIzQ3yPr0N8891e_knNs9XdVNppv9L7Ht5nI2L6kNDjxgQSIJXoVxyLOojuFcMfmswzH-piBPVbs/s363/3bbd0989f99abc914a021d6d9eb31937--newton-news-folk-art-paintings.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="363" data-original-width="300" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOd_UoflIbYqShURTaDqT3ubUTEnQGwWZQQrOQFEn3_5-U3S3Uan6C_00lo4YqDcjdb1djrD2hd25CUWlLBhHSRtszgtjsbN3r_mAyNj8XmuanpIzQ3yPr0N8891e_knNs9XdVNppv9L7Ht5nI2L6kNDjxgQSIJXoVxyLOojuFcMfmswzH-piBPVbs/w331-h400/3bbd0989f99abc914a021d6d9eb31937--newton-news-folk-art-paintings.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="331" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portrait of Mrs. Miller of Newton, New Jersey, by John S. Blunt<br />Image source: <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/404409241522328921/">Pinterest</a> </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOd_UoflIbYqShURTaDqT3ubUTEnQGwWZQQrOQFEn3_5-U3S3Uan6C_00lo4YqDcjdb1djrD2hd25CUWlLBhHSRtszgtjsbN3r_mAyNj8XmuanpIzQ3yPr0N8891e_knNs9XdVNppv9L7Ht5nI2L6kNDjxgQSIJXoVxyLOojuFcMfmswzH-piBPVbs/s363/3bbd0989f99abc914a021d6d9eb31937--newton-news-folk-art-paintings.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And here's my version of an 1820s beribboned cap, featuring double ruffles and wired ribbon loops: </div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRQpbdwmkxL76PMmAz7GpIF_9dM2RpdeZ430NXkyPEXb_ChH6ODiQzO6QUiviBgoXNuzLIfLnT9I_TUAPPF0H9eKVSVWY_eq2WyAt1o0SBb7hOmcsB6KIxkS4TYLQRhavE6zDa0tIQEBWLnb-WGaHFByEJQdFeE2nk5e6VZApwzGdnh9GEeOYRxn4q/s3002/IMG_E2603.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3002" data-original-width="3002" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRQpbdwmkxL76PMmAz7GpIF_9dM2RpdeZ430NXkyPEXb_ChH6ODiQzO6QUiviBgoXNuzLIfLnT9I_TUAPPF0H9eKVSVWY_eq2WyAt1o0SBb7hOmcsB6KIxkS4TYLQRhavE6zDa0tIQEBWLnb-WGaHFByEJQdFeE2nk5e6VZApwzGdnh9GEeOYRxn4q/w400-h400/IMG_E2603.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An 1820s beribboned cap decorated with wired ribbon loops.<br />Interior cotton twill tape "utility" ties, <br />and decorative ties of the same ombré ribbon with wires removed.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />I really let the ribbon guide me as I decorated the cap. First, I made a large double-loop bow with tails, which was tacked at the top center. I used a long continuous length of ribbon for the side bows, and tacked them along the entire band of the cap. After removing the wire, I also added ribbon streamers, which can be tied under the chin, or left loose like in the portrait above. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0IkJWX772_dICdUeYRpUEdwnywC2GVcyx-1dJEzTCP50tcnMX2Lwy1kDn0ml38ABhE3tBRjIyf5kXDJmZhwzslW8AB63y1AZYG8NPiv2XGdRQJbQQdl5UxBib6ADRMbfist8KiLWBwUZc5MSqEmL4-Rhl-78cHXn2LrGHQyxkPSQqm48_NioA6XWx/s2997/IMG_E2606.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2996" data-original-width="2997" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0IkJWX772_dICdUeYRpUEdwnywC2GVcyx-1dJEzTCP50tcnMX2Lwy1kDn0ml38ABhE3tBRjIyf5kXDJmZhwzslW8AB63y1AZYG8NPiv2XGdRQJbQQdl5UxBib6ADRMbfist8KiLWBwUZc5MSqEmL4-Rhl-78cHXn2LrGHQyxkPSQqm48_NioA6XWx/w400-h400/IMG_E2606.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWxFXvXtOML8suo6ZtvDK__BMJnMpnai9cgBviBqPaEKHay0a4IbG-UqkImYN4OKOQO-3aFKtjnpLU54bq_Z2dLTWsjyJvv2xriY5O9vBCzZ1ejPebxpa88hQvmsqJtahtl3CA2_OqAuZJHMjdlUrwJg1E_Rdvxbx4fgP2d5FHxRDIZhFN9G14F4QF/s2946/IMG_E2611.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2946" data-original-width="2946" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWxFXvXtOML8suo6ZtvDK__BMJnMpnai9cgBviBqPaEKHay0a4IbG-UqkImYN4OKOQO-3aFKtjnpLU54bq_Z2dLTWsjyJvv2xriY5O9vBCzZ1ejPebxpa88hQvmsqJtahtl3CA2_OqAuZJHMjdlUrwJg1E_Rdvxbx4fgP2d5FHxRDIZhFN9G14F4QF/w400-h400/IMG_E2611.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCzmACyGhsIhNYMle0vV-vJWJzYy0bBa6b7xcoDrTvd3KxpPML2pcyN9dmD6osJoklgGxAzxKoPtaOF4vSeJs8RTpKacZmWakZyo9219bS1scXqUOr-NmHFdP97oyCegwiEN4MqbI4tIpp2YFGYrX_aqi9GFnIE6TynoXtI_YhJxIKIKAokvT5w9oN/s2931/IMG_E2616.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2931" data-original-width="2931" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCzmACyGhsIhNYMle0vV-vJWJzYy0bBa6b7xcoDrTvd3KxpPML2pcyN9dmD6osJoklgGxAzxKoPtaOF4vSeJs8RTpKacZmWakZyo9219bS1scXqUOr-NmHFdP97oyCegwiEN4MqbI4tIpp2YFGYrX_aqi9GFnIE6TynoXtI_YhJxIKIKAokvT5w9oN/w400-h400/IMG_E2616.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In this side view, you can really see the double layer of ruffles -<br />the entire cap is handstitched with narrow rolled hems and whipped rolled gathers. </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXkyuIb_vynLlBbPb7AWzrStfGNCf0R5KkkQZc4sICDqjMgsVmxFqWxzmKIrpHg8tJNrPc7wSAIiHDzyCItnsO45OM7ZlTGlP1eh1hSqPqr9o_pfh6MxSqETrx_XzMAOeO8hYcE2HADWuyuTA7wyr7N_nACuMC_E0MS_Cq3A22kyblRelWeUa5YFo6/s2952/IMG_E2622.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2952" data-original-width="2952" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXkyuIb_vynLlBbPb7AWzrStfGNCf0R5KkkQZc4sICDqjMgsVmxFqWxzmKIrpHg8tJNrPc7wSAIiHDzyCItnsO45OM7ZlTGlP1eh1hSqPqr9o_pfh6MxSqETrx_XzMAOeO8hYcE2HADWuyuTA7wyr7N_nACuMC_E0MS_Cq3A22kyblRelWeUa5YFo6/w400-h400/IMG_E2622.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u>Tasseled Slippers</u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">If you're also not able or wanting to spend a small fortune on period footwear<i> (and don't mind a modern cheat or two)</i>, try making shoe clips! I transformed a pair of cheap red flats that had a similar, narrow rounded toe with a squared foot opening to Regency era examples, with clip-on bows and handmade tassels. Perhaps they read more costume, but they make me happy! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I used this very pretty embroidered pair of women's shoes from RISD museum for scale: I wanted to line the edges of my slippers, and mimic the side seams with pink petersham ribbon to help with the illusion, but I didn't have anything similar on hand at the time. And, this was just for pictures anyways. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-jeV-I_8DT0XwN4zcck1Z-iG_B_kitLRFYp0N-o0Zv3eyVYPwJW23v-ZsLvUq5cxOJAxItxDMRdknWmujB__lQcv6q_VGCwDmdJq15xoXTWn5KpaMR7Gw96jWIZ3pacnUEuA6yR8HsrIdwzYA0rsBbtOwQ6IGbs08PkyxJMtGLMKo_jPVsw7omPJ/s900/270356.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="900" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-jeV-I_8DT0XwN4zcck1Z-iG_B_kitLRFYp0N-o0Zv3eyVYPwJW23v-ZsLvUq5cxOJAxItxDMRdknWmujB__lQcv6q_VGCwDmdJq15xoXTWn5KpaMR7Gw96jWIZ3pacnUEuA6yR8HsrIdwzYA0rsBbtOwQ6IGbs08PkyxJMtGLMKo_jPVsw7omPJ/w400-h300/270356.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Women's shoes, c.1810.<br /><a href="https://risdmuseum.org/art-design/collection/womens-shoes-37335">RISD museum, (object number: 37.335)</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br />To make my shoe clips, I used the same ombré ribbon with the wire removed for the bows. Then, after observing other extant examples with all kinds of fringe and tassels - I set to making my own tassels from leftover cotton yarns that I've dyed in shades of red and pink. Once I was happy with the bows, I added metal shoe clips to the back: </div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV8kDd8wxNISwJoXk22F2BVyf0iW-XlaGSqyOxgFwrl6BM0LdltoPatcgeaV9QxcGWgtQQaXg0Ui75Scwhk8LHhIhus0rEX1s4t9vpFe_SgXxjz6Ax4-QJmPMthUgHN9_sNEi_lZOoQrxv328goxCr0w21lGYTiTJUBZCJG6ASDX9BtNLs2P3vnC9E/s2986/IMG_E2553.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2986" data-original-width="2986" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV8kDd8wxNISwJoXk22F2BVyf0iW-XlaGSqyOxgFwrl6BM0LdltoPatcgeaV9QxcGWgtQQaXg0Ui75Scwhk8LHhIhus0rEX1s4t9vpFe_SgXxjz6Ax4-QJmPMthUgHN9_sNEi_lZOoQrxv328goxCr0w21lGYTiTJUBZCJG6ASDX9BtNLs2P3vnC9E/w400-h400/IMG_E2553.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's what the removable shoe clips look like on their own:<br />Ombré ribbon bows with hand-dyed tassels with metal backings.<br />By making them removable, I can mix-and-match with other shoes.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here's what the shoe clips look like when installed: <i>and from the comfort of my own parlor, they're passable for Regency slippers to me!</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7FT09DdQYL3Rp6XFObYJilTpcEGZmRPrAwsD18OTKQ9HEW5rq_yeIUQzugNFMhvzE9MiRPxFvFOlmd7Ycqe_P2lJC1h9rkxfsle-3mvsOsoaT_knOER3N7PQLRYBTur25NUNfyLFtZhCDunq2VVNYRP6Tnyo3RCnu9HZLtN6kOZUurJ8uHaB-Mgqi/s3024/IMG_E2541.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7FT09DdQYL3Rp6XFObYJilTpcEGZmRPrAwsD18OTKQ9HEW5rq_yeIUQzugNFMhvzE9MiRPxFvFOlmd7Ycqe_P2lJC1h9rkxfsle-3mvsOsoaT_knOER3N7PQLRYBTur25NUNfyLFtZhCDunq2VVNYRP6Tnyo3RCnu9HZLtN6kOZUurJ8uHaB-Mgqi/w400-h400/IMG_E2541.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMTPVlyWu7254N8zHJ5GZwSun-h4XQaldOo_A421yM2ZNGtB6KnBDHSjrgyJJdmHaMkxmuuoFeQ1c_Olo-H2KRlvyOKOFmupsqldQLAZ3xvJpxWinZCAlmDEtleT3e45l5Uo70SREwrSWdhuN2Mm1XmNZx8mt3LuS1SQ5_AyeNEiB5lRAU01rmg6Aq/s3024/IMG_E2530.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMTPVlyWu7254N8zHJ5GZwSun-h4XQaldOo_A421yM2ZNGtB6KnBDHSjrgyJJdmHaMkxmuuoFeQ1c_Olo-H2KRlvyOKOFmupsqldQLAZ3xvJpxWinZCAlmDEtleT3e45l5Uo70SREwrSWdhuN2Mm1XmNZx8mt3LuS1SQ5_AyeNEiB5lRAU01rmg6Aq/w400-h400/IMG_E2530.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVt8WOslgc1Va8VDZCq37o6eYq7R9O4cJqUeUsVfrcsDfOjEJ73EEeOLDiYsWYOexbFXzt6p9-Q6yRIIR90wTdIWAoRBEW0Ee9sXfit4ZZ-cEfzFPq_f3NFVlM1tPCDuGgCaZyKGBokU4Ex5NMedQB66MzceRgzTz4cqZDLhJxH8dHj6iDnRu8FMl5/s2995/IMG_E2522.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2995" data-original-width="2995" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVt8WOslgc1Va8VDZCq37o6eYq7R9O4cJqUeUsVfrcsDfOjEJ73EEeOLDiYsWYOexbFXzt6p9-Q6yRIIR90wTdIWAoRBEW0Ee9sXfit4ZZ-cEfzFPq_f3NFVlM1tPCDuGgCaZyKGBokU4Ex5NMedQB66MzceRgzTz4cqZDLhJxH8dHj6iDnRu8FMl5/w400-h400/IMG_E2522.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh95VzYG3uZGvY9bxTTikGBahdm3jn4zY4UCrZ8eteRhHfIXtlOmC3SC1BnfLLxJXTCe39Zoz_5bvHRy4jh0-A15XC1GB_UQW6RWF7E-JfCmsk599mHHp9603zZrcFSqPF8pXfsQ-sA4t0_5mXriaE0EIwo2MymlLdEQkdyfVrU0gSnts6yg6HZPILF/s3024/IMG_E2533.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh95VzYG3uZGvY9bxTTikGBahdm3jn4zY4UCrZ8eteRhHfIXtlOmC3SC1BnfLLxJXTCe39Zoz_5bvHRy4jh0-A15XC1GB_UQW6RWF7E-JfCmsk599mHHp9603zZrcFSqPF8pXfsQ-sA4t0_5mXriaE0EIwo2MymlLdEQkdyfVrU0gSnts6yg6HZPILF/w400-h400/IMG_E2533.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><i>And that's a wrap</i> for this Regency wrapper <i>(terrible pun, I know) </i>and the series - I can't wait to actually wear the morning dress for an event! </b> I still have a long ways to go on my 1820s wardrobe before August, as I still need to make a day dress, outerwear, bonnet, and maybe a linen shift and new set of long stays if there's time. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPaRSrvloT4GKPgQ6bV0dlkQO9NrfnJH5MfpWv_kbAv3TSPNQndFi6vsjzGTaTeXF-ZAGPRRwCvSzdlztKzP1TaOOLN2v4Q9NVNm2uVku-0Y_L4KNMMh5Q0RvliusmY0BgkDayKYgPypD2P3g3rw7Mz7T3T1EECPxrl0w31d3dkfef7AqbLhB5suDo/s3820/IMG_E2922.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3820" data-original-width="2148" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPaRSrvloT4GKPgQ6bV0dlkQO9NrfnJH5MfpWv_kbAv3TSPNQndFi6vsjzGTaTeXF-ZAGPRRwCvSzdlztKzP1TaOOLN2v4Q9NVNm2uVku-0Y_L4KNMMh5Q0RvliusmY0BgkDayKYgPypD2P3g3rw7Mz7T3T1EECPxrl0w31d3dkfef7AqbLhB5suDo/w360-h640/IMG_E2922.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lounging around like it's the 1820s!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><i>Like what you see here and want to support the creation of future content and fashion history programming? Consider joining us over on <a href="https://www.patreon.com/sewphisticate">Patreon</a> with pledges starting at $2/month, and you'll also unlock exclusive content like bonus blog posts and more! Follow @youngsewphisticate on Facebook & Instagram for regular updates.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b>Thank you for reading & special thanks to our generous patrons!</b></div></div></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-45325083507201025972023-03-06T09:00:00.000-05:002023-03-06T09:00:00.188-05:00Making an 1820s Morning Dress<p style="text-align: left;">I made a morning - <i>not to be confused with "mourning"</i> - dress or wrapper, which is a garment intended to be worn in the privacy of ones home, or before getting more properly dressed into an afternoon or "walking" dress. With now <i>two</i> "Getting Dressed in the 1820s" presentations coming up - in both August and October 2023 - I wanted something to throw on for modesty and comfort, before dressing in front of a live audience. This blog post details the inspiration behind, construction of, and then styling of an early-1820s morning dress: </p><p style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS47VKxca5DrsBowL1S4qCAHm1CzglEdMNzcBmnuVciU9u8BL__veCLwJ5QYE-CRs9snljJKvdjXK5mkXOjfe_4OdjvlHgE-W4ktJhVEJzAXHsthJMLVqIvO_FsJzywvLjZogD1I3pfPocZGyN_aE3BMkxYKtUb34biIVxsoDXfGl7fPoLu7KFH5eB/s2000/Making%20an%201820s%20Morning%20Dress.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1429" data-original-width="2000" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS47VKxca5DrsBowL1S4qCAHm1CzglEdMNzcBmnuVciU9u8BL__veCLwJ5QYE-CRs9snljJKvdjXK5mkXOjfe_4OdjvlHgE-W4ktJhVEJzAXHsthJMLVqIvO_FsJzywvLjZogD1I3pfPocZGyN_aE3BMkxYKtUb34biIVxsoDXfGl7fPoLu7KFH5eB/w640-h458/Making%20an%201820s%20Morning%20Dress.png" width="640" /></a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u>Historical Inspiration</u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Before diving into a new project, I like to pull together a Pinterest board of inspiration images - these include extant examples from online museum collections, fashion plates, historical portraiture, and any period pattern diagrams. Ever since I saw this polka-dotted printed dress, c.1810-1815, in the DAR's "An Agreeable Tyrant" exhibit, I've been wanting something similar. And I'm not the only one in love with it - as some of my Instagram followers let me know - there's actually a <a href="https://burnleyandtrowbridge.com/products/fig-leaf-patterns-surplice-dress-c1810?variant=31785810100311">Fig Leaf Pattern for this exact dress</a>, available for purchase through <i>Burnley & Trowbridge</i>! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">While my morning dress is not a replica, I did take inspiration from the cross-over or surplice bodice, and the ruffles along the neckline, sleeves, and skirt hem. Of course, I also used a small, red polka-dotted print! I ended up purchasing a bolt of 100% cotton quilting fabric from JoAnn's online with a coupon, which worked for my purposes. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBTC15DhUOqCVslqYS7EaeHCn-KmWn1fEli7H9EGEQQCcXZKknmJ7C0m07ZkpGSjgvIxHlhVmYqRDn4dGO-LcpHOif8UFwUeueoXV82aoqFDNi7HZuCRq8_op03gvqVxxXuatTeQ66HZPpp3A2_OiN7-INegZh138EhI3nNKS6nMoNX_G010dNp5Qa/s772/polka-dot-printed-dress.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="772" data-original-width="576" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBTC15DhUOqCVslqYS7EaeHCn-KmWn1fEli7H9EGEQQCcXZKknmJ7C0m07ZkpGSjgvIxHlhVmYqRDn4dGO-LcpHOif8UFwUeueoXV82aoqFDNi7HZuCRq8_op03gvqVxxXuatTeQ66HZPpp3A2_OiN7-INegZh138EhI3nNKS6nMoNX_G010dNp5Qa/w298-h400/polka-dot-printed-dress.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polka-dot printed dress, c.1810 - 1815.<br />From a private collection, displayed as part of the <a href="https://agreeabletyrant.dar.org/gallery/1810s/polka-dot-printed-dress/">DAR's "An Agreeable Tyrant" exhibit</a>.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Two other examples of morning wrappers specifically influenced my design, including this one from the MET museum: I liked the small, guessing 1" - 1.5" ruffled trim along the edges, and the skirt opening falls at the side, just about where mine does too. <div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg84kANLqPBH1E3BXFa5b6KZjpb4YBthRa9xLW7YRyN30wqfx-MT2d1J0Ymi--VJocyTXUXKKEack9T528nwxr-XFpKN2DFDT8fNG-dwv385t1us257iRU1Br40HC3czoGZgB1vBPpVfRKUAyXQSjJCxy5UAgVbbJpWvmIklP-kuFrgFd1Rv9jdZ1la/s1392/Met%20wrapper.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1392" height="345" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg84kANLqPBH1E3BXFa5b6KZjpb4YBthRa9xLW7YRyN30wqfx-MT2d1J0Ymi--VJocyTXUXKKEack9T528nwxr-XFpKN2DFDT8fNG-dwv385t1us257iRU1Br40HC3czoGZgB1vBPpVfRKUAyXQSjJCxy5UAgVbbJpWvmIklP-kuFrgFd1Rv9jdZ1la/w400-h345/Met%20wrapper.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning Dress, c.1810 - 1820.<br /><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/107992">MET museum, (accession number: 1978.88.1)</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br />As well as this example of a "wrap over gown" from the Victoria & Albert Museum, which has a similar crossover bodice to mine:<br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3fd_wDibeZNZESZkHW3Vu29NzGo82UvYaTDD8ehQIJ5fdPzrX5X6lLiiW2emmxXS304wKieu3yEy5OI3diFJ0aBgUfCbGd--nDNb2dpBEf-s8KkCvRFlg5eltQ01U265SbzYV8euiHaCliGenp3YythuZi5ucmzI7riRhcPSBo1ZM3_m5LbR9QfWc/s2500/2006AG4332.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2500" data-original-width="1986" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3fd_wDibeZNZESZkHW3Vu29NzGo82UvYaTDD8ehQIJ5fdPzrX5X6lLiiW2emmxXS304wKieu3yEy5OI3diFJ0aBgUfCbGd--nDNb2dpBEf-s8KkCvRFlg5eltQ01U265SbzYV8euiHaCliGenp3YythuZi5ucmzI7riRhcPSBo1ZM3_m5LbR9QfWc/w318-h400/2006AG4332.jpg" width="318" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peignoir, made c.1812-1814.<br /><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O114688/peignoir-unknown/">V&A Museum, (accession number: T.798-1913)</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u>Construction Details</u></b> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The pattern for this project was, <i>well</i>, an experiment and mash-up of several other patterns. For the lining and back pieces, I used my self-drafted bodiced petticoat pattern, and just raised the neckline by 1.5" all around. I flatlined the back lining and fashion fabric pieces, and then attached them to the front lining, only, at the shoulders and side seams. The lining flaps close with two metal hooks and thread eyes, first, and then the crossover. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyjHljyuyhb3vUzowEWi8cQAiRWeL-2AemQXoHOxEZB5v8CZ4lYll14q9bZ596PBP-LZuPodmlcwlffJ711oYaNGXOc6v6wht4r9CElhpv3_3tRXvb3bm40Ud-f4LXH5JQEAC7uBzfC1UaQ0B8BC8gM99LcS0oXvOIPGw333Pkq753sI4yhlsbwqQd/s3024/IMG_E2404.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyjHljyuyhb3vUzowEWi8cQAiRWeL-2AemQXoHOxEZB5v8CZ4lYll14q9bZ596PBP-LZuPodmlcwlffJ711oYaNGXOc6v6wht4r9CElhpv3_3tRXvb3bm40Ud-f4LXH5JQEAC7uBzfC1UaQ0B8BC8gM99LcS0oXvOIPGw333Pkq753sI4yhlsbwqQd/w400-h400/IMG_E2404.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front lining provides structure and interior support, and is seamed with the back at the shoulders and sides. The wearer fastens the lining first, with two metal hooks and thread eyes, before the crossover portion.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyX-YH3RtmaVbIOuSl4EbdEBlp0tzfZbPfeqiBCA9oUzwKFuxSBaInsOfHKZIFSuk37GgXFLl5wsALWEG2F7F2oiJKFZAuujwBizqGzOn5QxxG5vNn-4nKiyPyYwTW6ga0F_-ASwC-W0lLhZrcKMMfA_34l9alg7uf-_3MXMX-zzaNGGerZMezJiqL/s3024/IMG_E2406.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyX-YH3RtmaVbIOuSl4EbdEBlp0tzfZbPfeqiBCA9oUzwKFuxSBaInsOfHKZIFSuk37GgXFLl5wsALWEG2F7F2oiJKFZAuujwBizqGzOn5QxxG5vNn-4nKiyPyYwTW6ga0F_-ASwC-W0lLhZrcKMMfA_34l9alg7uf-_3MXMX-zzaNGGerZMezJiqL/w400-h400/IMG_E2406.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fashion fabric and lining are treated as one at the back.<br />After stitching, all of the seams were pinked and pressed flat.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />For the front crossover portion, I used an altered version of the bodice front from the <a href="https://www.sensibility.com/shop/elegant-ladys-closet-epattern">Elegant Ladies' Closet by <i>Sense & Sensibility </i>patterns</a>. I had used this before for a shortgown, and had to reshape the neckline, armscye (to fit with my lining pattern), and waist. Once I had the pieces cut out, I matched them at the shoulders and sides of the bodice, and basted generous pleats along the waistline. Here's what the crossover portion looked like before trimming and finishing: </div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfI3AkRR-CIY9yvse5LwcslvfLaoDSik6R0ptYPZv9Jr-NLx6FmkqhFPoKrYPogeldQvU0jddErFMEzRx4Wf2qAFXJs9R18hzljZKJNz1MuhAQ1UKR69zU2JfC9b055upsLZX3brwl-lEuLDvy31sFNC_MremQAE6XkN31uOD7rP18kK8amhwYoWRc/s3024/IMG_E2417.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfI3AkRR-CIY9yvse5LwcslvfLaoDSik6R0ptYPZv9Jr-NLx6FmkqhFPoKrYPogeldQvU0jddErFMEzRx4Wf2qAFXJs9R18hzljZKJNz1MuhAQ1UKR69zU2JfC9b055upsLZX3brwl-lEuLDvy31sFNC_MremQAE6XkN31uOD7rP18kK8amhwYoWRc/w400-h400/IMG_E2417.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Added a crossover front with a shaped neckline and the fullness pleated at the waist.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Next, I added a waistband, which I realized later I had not accounted for when I was measuring for the skirt (so I had to redo the skirt hem at least once). Speaking of the skirt, it was just rectangles, balanced (so that the back was slightly longer than the front), pleated, and seamed at the waist. I did whipstitch a cotton muslin facing over the waistband to enclose all of the raw edges and to keep the interior tidy. </div><div><br /></div><div>Then, I turned my attention to making the trim. This was easy - just long strips seamed together and knife pleated. I did this at the machine, just eyeballing the spacing, and made sure to change directions at the center back, so the pleating would be directional. I had to make enough trim for the entire neckline, front edge, hem, and sleeves. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmdrwRNEjW0CnrG7I_NxI_sRY3i_S2sP7iXlP5HGhgJ3QCI_BaOs8bXWjTvTvAyx0g_RxorfqRtbFnozVnJu9dXA4FbT4OzEEFsA_1rJJwLxICX1D0XYw6WEsE5vfNn665ygPK47M4UpB8nDMW_00LxCGhrnrqP_N_tDxVOn755ko7jCiSK8BqrMjV/s3024/Sewing%20pleats.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="2268" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmdrwRNEjW0CnrG7I_NxI_sRY3i_S2sP7iXlP5HGhgJ3QCI_BaOs8bXWjTvTvAyx0g_RxorfqRtbFnozVnJu9dXA4FbT4OzEEFsA_1rJJwLxICX1D0XYw6WEsE5vfNn665ygPK47M4UpB8nDMW_00LxCGhrnrqP_N_tDxVOn755ko7jCiSK8BqrMjV/w300-h400/Sewing%20pleats.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pleating trim for the neckline, front edge, skirt hem, and sleeves. <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Once I attached the trim to the raw edges, I made cotton muslin facings to cover all of the raw edges. The facings all had to be handstitched, as these stitches would be visible from the outside. It didn't take too long overall, and I'm happy I enclosed all of the raw edges, in case the front edge flips open and to protect the hem from wear. </div><div><br /></div><div>Here's some more in-progress shots of attaching the skirt, pleated trim, and an interior shot before I added the interior waistband and facings: </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimidhwdTXvQkWQQowpV9rNnAC9zpxZWZGyKczLwcP0IhgN27SH1qAzpR9bR1OdLk6nF55UEqtE_Dl9howmWybiq3OKxt8CNBghOaJiOEhbrNwWgxn9vMjrH0b__qmW7kbHu1zlm0T_DNOG6Udn0dn1AsCQUzoamsBpQF85Iv6YBE62NMhlsNRC5ky4/s4032/1820s%20Regency%20Wrapper%20-%20Front%20Detail.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimidhwdTXvQkWQQowpV9rNnAC9zpxZWZGyKczLwcP0IhgN27SH1qAzpR9bR1OdLk6nF55UEqtE_Dl9howmWybiq3OKxt8CNBghOaJiOEhbrNwWgxn9vMjrH0b__qmW7kbHu1zlm0T_DNOG6Udn0dn1AsCQUzoamsBpQF85Iv6YBE62NMhlsNRC5ky4/w300-h400/1820s%20Regency%20Wrapper%20-%20Front%20Detail.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pleated trim on the front.<br />To enclose all of the raw edges, I added facings from plain cotton muslin, <br />which had to be handstitched in place as the stitches would show on the outside. </td></tr></tbody></table><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaTqT7T9FTTttepELmBgg57soSTHiVqdyYd5pfZfK8KNFcSeMRC0-6ewnmLjEucFlxlMl4i1M7tS_0cYxRLAj8oAJTKCaNuql2ja3887oM4cTTL8uoaFiuyPkyp14yOc-bguHyy5uY62Csbfqc3XsX_-f_ydaghaPajD9mvqtTdO2YULs9zl6h_1k1/s3859/1820s%20Regency%20Wrapper%20-%20Back%20Detail.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3859" data-original-width="2894" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaTqT7T9FTTttepELmBgg57soSTHiVqdyYd5pfZfK8KNFcSeMRC0-6ewnmLjEucFlxlMl4i1M7tS_0cYxRLAj8oAJTKCaNuql2ja3887oM4cTTL8uoaFiuyPkyp14yOc-bguHyy5uY62Csbfqc3XsX_-f_ydaghaPajD9mvqtTdO2YULs9zl6h_1k1/w300-h400/1820s%20Regency%20Wrapper%20-%20Back%20Detail.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pleated trim on the back.<br />I used directional knife-pleating for both the skirt and the trim,<br />switching directions with box pleats at the center back.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ0JsBFmGSLnGkZSR3Ms920R6652UBfJELhnwClvER14ORthvxTS73Y-hPuZz3UMZcRsf5bqRiMT9nysRwltUBJeJ_EfZ1Ly8ZzPrl3RfGfdfgIcS2KvllsHzkEZYH2ge5xwx5W7HDjKldJ6big3tbmK33v1KB-zrq5s-Zfrw001PJwBdxpligHCuV/s3916/1820s%20Regency%20Wrapper%20-%20Interior.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2797" data-original-width="3916" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ0JsBFmGSLnGkZSR3Ms920R6652UBfJELhnwClvER14ORthvxTS73Y-hPuZz3UMZcRsf5bqRiMT9nysRwltUBJeJ_EfZ1Ly8ZzPrl3RfGfdfgIcS2KvllsHzkEZYH2ge5xwx5W7HDjKldJ6big3tbmK33v1KB-zrq5s-Zfrw001PJwBdxpligHCuV/w400-h286/1820s%20Regency%20Wrapper%20-%20Interior.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A detail shot of the interior, before I added the waistband facing<br />to enclose the raw edges and neatly finish the interior. </td></tr></tbody></table><br />Apparently, I stopped taking pictures from this point to completion. But, I did make straight sleeves (another pattern pulled from my stash) with pleating at the wrist; and added interior twill tape ties and more metal hooks and thread eyes to the crossover portion to securely fasten the morning gown. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u>Completed Project Pictures</u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u><br /></u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To style my newly-completed morning dress, I trimmed a cap and tasseled slippers <i>(to be featured in their own, separate post) </i>with a vibrant, pink to red ombré ribbon. I wore the morning dress over clocked stockings, a shift, long corded stays (though wrappers can also be worn without support garments), and my <a href="http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2023/02/making-1820s-corded-petticoat.html">1820s corded petticoat</a>. In addition to the cap and slippers, I accessorized with a coral necklace, chemisette, large coral drop earrings, and face-framing curls. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Per usual, I took a lot of pictures from all the different angles:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJP7QEbfbSq5E9C2y8b0mfYJlAcYPbavmuLAS7WJNgVCtolQ6tUUutcx1vB2h2jvyQamC19uvL71OyuBgL-ZxlDUNzFDIAOdaF0oCpISNoftvWFkDJSiHcAf7iw8lhdircLvfIa9G65XcZhiLSSsOwfgToBodbw6RSmXjK9B3yetiByoxCw1C2-RQ3/s3671/1820s%20Polkadot%20Wrapper%20(4).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3671" data-original-width="2065" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJP7QEbfbSq5E9C2y8b0mfYJlAcYPbavmuLAS7WJNgVCtolQ6tUUutcx1vB2h2jvyQamC19uvL71OyuBgL-ZxlDUNzFDIAOdaF0oCpISNoftvWFkDJSiHcAf7iw8lhdircLvfIa9G65XcZhiLSSsOwfgToBodbw6RSmXjK9B3yetiByoxCw1C2-RQ3/w360-h640/1820s%20Polkadot%20Wrapper%20(4).JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1820s morning dress with the petticoat's flounced hem peeking out.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZI6Po0pnAqkruSqApWLM18R__AD30LBJBZZGdbkQZ1_p_CeOrj82huIMPczO6vYr06oa19BXB7qTXOaEpuNBAgqaFEDfNvycNqgLeDI-joCSGQRklQ2MG29vPztLclGPURrThYJOaYmVHovd_bTsjcYCld087LOWPye_1vWRa8qHrS1v42l6aKqEx/s3515/1820s%20Polkadot%20Wrapper%20(3).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3515" data-original-width="1977" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZI6Po0pnAqkruSqApWLM18R__AD30LBJBZZGdbkQZ1_p_CeOrj82huIMPczO6vYr06oa19BXB7qTXOaEpuNBAgqaFEDfNvycNqgLeDI-joCSGQRklQ2MG29vPztLclGPURrThYJOaYmVHovd_bTsjcYCld087LOWPye_1vWRa8qHrS1v42l6aKqEx/w360-h640/1820s%20Polkadot%20Wrapper%20(3).JPG" width="360" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0km3O6Ubo5UEEeG4T1ZfhEHZtlbYTs9XiWDtdVFXIBcXqTIS-ikvEp0YwEHWHom2qMeJL10ka_7aIuAylBgA43ksXdKwMTefmXsxgjCMUExvNlYdvBGf93Fz8mM8MxbzKbSODDlT9tcTNoFOoJTkXxx0SYBm7gVmsgTfe6LP2_2ptrOEv1cvMuUNg/s3745/1820s%20Polkadot%20Wrapper%20(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3745" data-original-width="2106" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0km3O6Ubo5UEEeG4T1ZfhEHZtlbYTs9XiWDtdVFXIBcXqTIS-ikvEp0YwEHWHom2qMeJL10ka_7aIuAylBgA43ksXdKwMTefmXsxgjCMUExvNlYdvBGf93Fz8mM8MxbzKbSODDlT9tcTNoFOoJTkXxx0SYBm7gVmsgTfe6LP2_2ptrOEv1cvMuUNg/w360-h640/1820s%20Polkadot%20Wrapper%20(2).JPG" width="360" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZdSwDrWM3D-ZPg2qnV9qRpgfkMIUNmhIDRESGSl_jWC04XvW8LXOpx7b4a0x7LxVXA6RukB3oy9Nusf6dDhWM-MEM6nPbUYgHYhpHVfrDmJ_XzF0fngZuWxxyZMMv2WfN9bO3eGrW-gLOsmBqrEBnoCPbFcTyjvLE918JdTOrAi1Wawhag1b8G-N_/s3666/IMG_E2678.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3666" data-original-width="2062" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZdSwDrWM3D-ZPg2qnV9qRpgfkMIUNmhIDRESGSl_jWC04XvW8LXOpx7b4a0x7LxVXA6RukB3oy9Nusf6dDhWM-MEM6nPbUYgHYhpHVfrDmJ_XzF0fngZuWxxyZMMv2WfN9bO3eGrW-gLOsmBqrEBnoCPbFcTyjvLE918JdTOrAi1Wawhag1b8G-N_/w360-h640/IMG_E2678.JPG" width="360" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPLSISGSI2JR7hOWznx6IjBcMk44OoDVIpcl9uSxl-Lmcp6UMEiCcQhkltAGHmxwZlNuoQ4_isog6qRCRJO8DcPNQ8qyDOWzRs9V-LRA8jROUfqHFtyzmpv5t2Xg-KPrUqCAZRUOMykEuwCSpqEeXLivA7XpVjAQNs_khevc1cbkgpPzw8Mvc_Z2LZ/s3894/IMG_E2768.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3894" data-original-width="2190" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPLSISGSI2JR7hOWznx6IjBcMk44OoDVIpcl9uSxl-Lmcp6UMEiCcQhkltAGHmxwZlNuoQ4_isog6qRCRJO8DcPNQ8qyDOWzRs9V-LRA8jROUfqHFtyzmpv5t2Xg-KPrUqCAZRUOMykEuwCSpqEeXLivA7XpVjAQNs_khevc1cbkgpPzw8Mvc_Z2LZ/w360-h640/IMG_E2768.JPG" width="360" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDz3cXZlNvFOyNHkmlUaCDM-ZKT0Ld_WWNrRVbUAMWZxy5o8kHlUYU3DEwp2N5n4kOfbpqBr5_npcro35EbZcmRG3ZQNMTa8sZc8Xs5vLXnmu58IMUNmKh25hrWnsreRurcx-OgSOl7SiDDkkHR3LJR1QM7HFop-GZWASJjM0UZf_gel1kJlUtfKum/s3535/IMG_E2841.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3535" data-original-width="1988" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDz3cXZlNvFOyNHkmlUaCDM-ZKT0Ld_WWNrRVbUAMWZxy5o8kHlUYU3DEwp2N5n4kOfbpqBr5_npcro35EbZcmRG3ZQNMTa8sZc8Xs5vLXnmu58IMUNmKh25hrWnsreRurcx-OgSOl7SiDDkkHR3LJR1QM7HFop-GZWASJjM0UZf_gel1kJlUtfKum/w360-h640/IMG_E2841.JPG" width="360" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3K8-nk4h7vSWqbcc-POZcC7uEi3SONi_eT5nWs_9DIvCy4O1zNI6C-Lfr1qaoXh26r5ZnPtuhl-tn063lxV1fCIXJzt8J1DSItI9VSVKnYvO5U9tJnJROjP907OBMBRPvpAbUMBBm4A5MbvIcw30W-FhtMumCyZbC55fCqdM6nB3KbLfiCZJR-mMG/s3609/IMG_E2843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3609" data-original-width="2030" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3K8-nk4h7vSWqbcc-POZcC7uEi3SONi_eT5nWs_9DIvCy4O1zNI6C-Lfr1qaoXh26r5ZnPtuhl-tn063lxV1fCIXJzt8J1DSItI9VSVKnYvO5U9tJnJROjP907OBMBRPvpAbUMBBm4A5MbvIcw30W-FhtMumCyZbC55fCqdM6nB3KbLfiCZJR-mMG/w360-h640/IMG_E2843.JPG" width="360" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I also took some seated pictures, <i>as this was actually only a few days after a minor foot procedure, and I was having trouble walking on my foot...</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuc1hC15XqhpQXsWpTeckzeQrv84MXzFiHjqnvDHSui4f51IohOCIylIG96Wwc22XoFQXyuW-m4BMeTvBUxUyRs0SdOX9pXGi1cGrB08RbkWGMwJqRT0zkIZFgyXu3NIyfIthDwiPz86_EfrUnBn2Nabf2w18rC7y6vFKirANA_gj4hDJwQ6258eXR/s4032/1820s%20Polkadot%20Wrapper%20Seated%20(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuc1hC15XqhpQXsWpTeckzeQrv84MXzFiHjqnvDHSui4f51IohOCIylIG96Wwc22XoFQXyuW-m4BMeTvBUxUyRs0SdOX9pXGi1cGrB08RbkWGMwJqRT0zkIZFgyXu3NIyfIthDwiPz86_EfrUnBn2Nabf2w18rC7y6vFKirANA_gj4hDJwQ6258eXR/w360-h640/1820s%20Polkadot%20Wrapper%20Seated%20(1).JPG" width="360" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH4Y7mqVdYJibQDdJQGww02shebw_Fk3ffEa8JGpgZgGfGZWHlsFKG68qc4KAEszfGqetf4W0CUY5bDQtpGjlZUGncKq-Zy1ESnTsg8ffwRt0GdBC0TietLU4DvEzB8XqZDCVtJiZ9XLVR58Nvz18Mwgx1mlmxaDE-8zK2sBgcPqyDYlQ02I8Y_ZeI/s3875/1820s%20Polkadot%20Wrapper%20Seated%20(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3875" data-original-width="2180" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH4Y7mqVdYJibQDdJQGww02shebw_Fk3ffEa8JGpgZgGfGZWHlsFKG68qc4KAEszfGqetf4W0CUY5bDQtpGjlZUGncKq-Zy1ESnTsg8ffwRt0GdBC0TietLU4DvEzB8XqZDCVtJiZ9XLVR58Nvz18Mwgx1mlmxaDE-8zK2sBgcPqyDYlQ02I8Y_ZeI/w360-h640/1820s%20Polkadot%20Wrapper%20Seated%20(2).JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The completed 1820s morning ensemble!</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><i>Like what you see here and want to support the creation of future content and fashion history programming? Consider joining us over on <a href="https://www.patreon.com/sewphisticate">Patreon</a> with pledges starting at $2/month, and you'll also unlock exclusive content like bonus blog posts and more! Follow @youngsewphisticate on Facebook & Instagram for regular updates.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b>Thank you for reading & special thanks to our generous patrons!</b></div></div></div></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-68303459085749161442023-03-01T09:00:00.001-05:002023-03-01T09:00:00.192-05:00Making an 1880s Plaid Ensemble: Skirt & Draperies<p style="text-align: left;">This is the year we're finally making the plaid 1880s bustle dress! In 2022, I finished the underpinnings for the project - including a <a href="http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2022/06/go-bustle-or-go-home-making-1880s.html">lobster tail bustle</a>, <a href="http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2022/11/when-in-doubt-add-another-petticoat.html">underpetticoat</a>, and <a href="http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2022/07/a-pretty-petticoat-making-1880s.html">flounced petticoat</a> - and today I'm sharing the completed skirt and draperies of what will be a three-piece, c.1883-86 plaid ensemble. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbXB7VjUj4RSyFhvCE0EzRXhf0B-jsAChRHyND3ExZtc7vKPPwo01ZLU3ueY87Rlp0hVByC83lpVNFIAqyTAHM1JS4zls8lowt5woJ3WF3Tn2zS-oB0OXkaD3Ns2LnPCaME7Q1AtsRRlFq0oSzdipslSVBTXiDgxQjduDcyXM6THCos54HgvAWFoz/s2000/Making%20an%201880s%20Skirt.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1429" data-original-width="2000" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbXB7VjUj4RSyFhvCE0EzRXhf0B-jsAChRHyND3ExZtc7vKPPwo01ZLU3ueY87Rlp0hVByC83lpVNFIAqyTAHM1JS4zls8lowt5woJ3WF3Tn2zS-oB0OXkaD3Ns2LnPCaME7Q1AtsRRlFq0oSzdipslSVBTXiDgxQjduDcyXM6THCos54HgvAWFoz/w640-h458/Making%20an%201880s%20Skirt.png" width="640" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;">As my lovely patrons already know, I have a deadline of an upcoming "Getting Dressed in the 1880s" presentation in April for the Niagara County Federation of Historical Agencies! My session is bright and early at 9am to kick off the annual convention, which means I'll be waking up at 5am on a Saturday to travel there...I'll need to work diligently through March to pattern and produce both a bodice and hat for the ensemble, so you can expect at least two more, future blog posts on the ensemble. </p><p style="text-align: left;">But for now, let's take a look at the making of the skirt and draperies - inspiration for the design, details of the construction, and completed project pictures. </p><p style="text-align: left;"><b><u>Historical Inspiration</u></b></p><p style="text-align: left;">Years ago, I bought 10 yards of the this navy blue, rust, and white woven cotton. I knew I wanted to make a bustle dress era with it, but I can't say that I had a specific design in mind then, or really even now as I'm making it. I just sort of let the fabric guide me into what it wants to be. </p><p style="text-align: left;">There are certainly plenty of extant examples of plaid dresses from the 1880s, made in silks, cottons, and wools. I liked the contrast of the pleated self-trim from this wine on white plaid, printed cotton day dress:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQ4m-b_CrIoAFWMuLtbHyDP3eg_3WWtnCOdDKD1iFpwW4xvnM1dsVjWR4kPTzXvLg8NyFAO8aeH3TALJ-q8dutObvVCkwRY9BDmlQbqd8tT-up_8O50ZubBsgmvZT4xJLLbEP9a459IpSDamYQ77ZsTmm4havnw-jt7eQpUhiVYpt39lYbWVyCtwk/s1394/1038.2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1394" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQ4m-b_CrIoAFWMuLtbHyDP3eg_3WWtnCOdDKD1iFpwW4xvnM1dsVjWR4kPTzXvLg8NyFAO8aeH3TALJ-q8dutObvVCkwRY9BDmlQbqd8tT-up_8O50ZubBsgmvZT4xJLLbEP9a459IpSDamYQ77ZsTmm4havnw-jt7eQpUhiVYpt39lYbWVyCtwk/w331-h640/1038.2.jpg" width="331" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3-piece, printed cotton day dress, c. 1880s:<br />including a cuirass bodice, over, and under skirts.<br /><a href="https://augusta-auction.com/auction?view=lot&id=19324&auction_file_id=55&fbclid=IwAR0OT0lvQIq96r6NWOaN7NIFxIqVDBMn1-SJZRVglyOP99ONwiIKomAIbQ4">Augusta Actions, Lot: 1038</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br />I was also drawn to the bold, bias-cut trim on this long-time favorite portrait of a young Black woman in a plaid ensemble: she's so pretty and poised, looking directly towards us. I wish I knew who she was, and more of her story. <div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFq2nBZ3X0rBeEqvUovjmJSvvTGcgWJYZlSLUIL6ENz446WnaBDXWK2ivRrGWkpR5WMvhHYvyV6IvGfCUCmEZEYt2Lpvo-dgBdVzsrss9DyuIMrACmEvA5RUs1x6KF7rrNjoYYkixEGYls8naNHFfvE_laPaMLt51NM_JlfS48h4fbDEs1bqT2DOHQ/s746/afticanamericangirl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="746" data-original-width="500" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFq2nBZ3X0rBeEqvUovjmJSvvTGcgWJYZlSLUIL6ENz446WnaBDXWK2ivRrGWkpR5WMvhHYvyV6IvGfCUCmEZEYt2Lpvo-dgBdVzsrss9DyuIMrACmEvA5RUs1x6KF7rrNjoYYkixEGYls8naNHFfvE_laPaMLt51NM_JlfS48h4fbDEs1bqT2DOHQ/w429-h640/afticanamericangirl.jpg" width="429" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portrait of a young woman, c.1880s.<br />Source: <a href="http://www.fabricandcolorjournal.com/2016/08/young-women-in-plaid.html">Fabric and Color Journal</a> </td></tr></tbody></table><br />Finally, here's a plaid walking dress from an 1887 French fashion plate: I intended to have both the skirt and draperies match in the plaid, and am considering a solid, navy blue wool bodice with contrasting plaid panel at the center front. My other design flips the fabrics, with the plaid as the main fabric, and contrasting panel in navy blue velvet with a matching collar and cuffs. I could always make both...🤔 But for now, a single bodice will do, as we're on a deadline!</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAZNcQzHgX6CC3733pmcNsHMKfTHduahyFBIj7kFHCRU-ocT-Yc3qnpS59PeqE1xOEQfIUcK-3_yCaO8Z3nVP6DS-NdGoid13s_-jpNXtCpUKwUR3bOOzn7KMX_jhSNjYITIC2Da3Y-HUWXVsTxt9-L61hkJJbUjBzveO9PA5n_Rtk-6FInjBqGste/s508/bdddb755712cebef301128f2be52fa15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="508" data-original-width="339" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAZNcQzHgX6CC3733pmcNsHMKfTHduahyFBIj7kFHCRU-ocT-Yc3qnpS59PeqE1xOEQfIUcK-3_yCaO8Z3nVP6DS-NdGoid13s_-jpNXtCpUKwUR3bOOzn7KMX_jhSNjYITIC2Da3Y-HUWXVsTxt9-L61hkJJbUjBzveO9PA5n_Rtk-6FInjBqGste/s16000/bdddb755712cebef301128f2be52fa15.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking dress, French fashion plate, c.1887.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><b><u>Construction Details</u></b></div><div><br /></div><div>As with most new projects (and since the 1880s are an unfamiliar era for me), I began with a mock-up for the skirt. I started with Truly Victorian's <a href="https://trulyvictorian.info/index.php/product/tv261p-1885-four-gore-underskirt-paper-pattern/">1885 Four-Gore Underskirt pattern (TV261)</a>, and added a casing and drawstring to help keep the skirts over the bustle in the back. I used a cotton bedsheet for the mock-up: </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKDorbDgfnUao3lerxXDBe_tP9TgASPoH1DyxIw_yAxTgSAnlHnYAvodoz18zQ5Kf8w-cE4LUo99jZbRH5-SRcphnLmM2tgybyMSitoEiiiGpD4t64l65SR8TN97EeUNpNGG0CfMV-oPfJM6Nq15VAKziaX7RBfXekubClQ92zmghltwVp4AXKCbrx/s3200/Mock-up%20-%20both%20sides.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="3200" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKDorbDgfnUao3lerxXDBe_tP9TgASPoH1DyxIw_yAxTgSAnlHnYAvodoz18zQ5Kf8w-cE4LUo99jZbRH5-SRcphnLmM2tgybyMSitoEiiiGpD4t64l65SR8TN97EeUNpNGG0CfMV-oPfJM6Nq15VAKziaX7RBfXekubClQ92zmghltwVp4AXKCbrx/w400-h375/Mock-up%20-%20both%20sides.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mock-up for 1880s skirt, based on TV261 pattern.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQHZwB-4UG45jlugwSm4LErb-WatgVGgF1SOsYtRCRyPImIp9al8C-NtQV9Rnxp-G0_YIYHNilNLp00HIBv5sg3Iybyu_TTByn2YBjhzdBXoKWfXl9-laHq-V4X9tFY0ePlfN4iC16MeKB25EQAO4Lcd8pSmcse0CTnzXPsHemF3MDYMmyi9bulT6q/s3000/Mock-up%20Back%20-%20inside%20and%20out.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="3000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQHZwB-4UG45jlugwSm4LErb-WatgVGgF1SOsYtRCRyPImIp9al8C-NtQV9Rnxp-G0_YIYHNilNLp00HIBv5sg3Iybyu_TTByn2YBjhzdBXoKWfXl9-laHq-V4X9tFY0ePlfN4iC16MeKB25EQAO4Lcd8pSmcse0CTnzXPsHemF3MDYMmyi9bulT6q/w400-h400/Mock-up%20Back%20-%20inside%20and%20out.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mock-up for 1880s skirt: test for casing with twill tape ties to hold the skirt in place over a bustle.<br />Interior view on the left, exterior or outside view on the right with directional pleats.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Pleased with the look, I cut the skirt panels from the plaid fashion fabric, and assembled the skirt. I finished the hem with a cotton muslin facing (instead of lining the skirt), and pleated the skirt onto a band with a metal closure. I thought the skirt looked a little limp, so I made a small cotton pad after the dimensions in <i>Costume in Detail </i>by Nancy Bradfield, page 253: <div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKiEM_6WosHb-PtbLopwmlqmR7anUSBHjXkY5Vg92cKcsVvV9PtmAHtKNU2jtFajx10J_5jngYX_kD43dbw6-5ByBbhbRsA0BbO_2NYvwuQIHjiiU45Fr66fw617XwaLAW6pStf6wKQVDhmbK7diYobu2i_YC1xIIjfnMB8pBaP9Ffp1H6AXyN7b8t/s2000/Side%20by%20side%20comparison.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKiEM_6WosHb-PtbLopwmlqmR7anUSBHjXkY5Vg92cKcsVvV9PtmAHtKNU2jtFajx10J_5jngYX_kD43dbw6-5ByBbhbRsA0BbO_2NYvwuQIHjiiU45Fr66fw617XwaLAW6pStf6wKQVDhmbK7diYobu2i_YC1xIIjfnMB8pBaP9Ffp1H6AXyN7b8t/w400-h400/Side%20by%20side%20comparison.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the left, skirt before adding a small bustle pad. <br />On the right, a much-improved silhouette with a little padding!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgithLv5qFY6j6WMj4Qa5Vd-UQpfeoNm0eQUlLawdYCE0iP-8PO-PfuqIaD4zLZa2KOwWaEweRA0A0ptLAW1aP6fj8RtkcKAGYGiMwxqyOxsFHZdcuN9S9h4OdWcs0FY-3Q1GGUXeNNsOWIhPyvjC45BF778B_wxdV7xMY1zgwK_6EAMI2ntKQkze1/s2892/Bustle%20Pad.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2891" data-original-width="2892" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgithLv5qFY6j6WMj4Qa5Vd-UQpfeoNm0eQUlLawdYCE0iP-8PO-PfuqIaD4zLZa2KOwWaEweRA0A0ptLAW1aP6fj8RtkcKAGYGiMwxqyOxsFHZdcuN9S9h4OdWcs0FY-3Q1GGUXeNNsOWIhPyvjC45BF778B_wxdV7xMY1zgwK_6EAMI2ntKQkze1/w400-h400/Bustle%20Pad.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small cotton pad measures 7" long, and ties under the pleats at the back with cotton tapes. </td></tr></tbody></table><br />With the base done, it was time to trim the skirt! I played around with different designs, thinking first of deep rows of ruffles or pleats, and then settled on box-pleated bias bands. After cutting, seaming, and pressing all the bias strips together, I eyeballed and pinned wide box pleats, making enough for the skirt hem, and for trimming the draperies too:</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicA7HMl8ChWArDbzvJIDgf-hWeEoGUoHzg9L34abKHIQFLwP7-fQbxUKQR2YeQPR7ONylOsOebbI8OwiI7EOu3-QrX50Bm2DBBPR5GqqfveEZsVDZaZ-Bb-agc7o_Mijn6hHh3ZJlogLTzWSVA3fssmRbi3ET7TGDVi44oDPJWV3V55lY_MTBQFdzv/s3808/More%20Pleats%20(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2856" data-original-width="3808" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicA7HMl8ChWArDbzvJIDgf-hWeEoGUoHzg9L34abKHIQFLwP7-fQbxUKQR2YeQPR7ONylOsOebbI8OwiI7EOu3-QrX50Bm2DBBPR5GqqfveEZsVDZaZ-Bb-agc7o_Mijn6hHh3ZJlogLTzWSVA3fssmRbi3ET7TGDVi44oDPJWV3V55lY_MTBQFdzv/w400-h300/More%20Pleats%20(1).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To make the trim, I cut and stitched bands of bias together.<br />I turned and pressed the top and bottom edges inwards by a half-inch each.<br />Then, I eyeballed and pinned wide box pleats along the strips.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Pinning a row of pleated trim all around the skirt, I top-stitched them around the hem at the top and bottom edges to secure the individual box pleats and mount the trim.</div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYJ5sZ0ozZdZ2hCFq5ZAM0ptGG4p_HsaG5XdKWy4bTwxAucT58aweBqXSfUX9Si77ZTnYoM5tng8Sef0xcyp9zwUsmf-d-VaSJ19hAC2aqajM33mamAXfv8UkQZaV9AV33jgoe1YyJs1kYSC8srRnvDoTBIdIaYdzxttGj0puXcEwUXFCwuidJUtjH/s4032/Pleats%20(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYJ5sZ0ozZdZ2hCFq5ZAM0ptGG4p_HsaG5XdKWy4bTwxAucT58aweBqXSfUX9Si77ZTnYoM5tng8Sef0xcyp9zwUsmf-d-VaSJ19hAC2aqajM33mamAXfv8UkQZaV9AV33jgoe1YyJs1kYSC8srRnvDoTBIdIaYdzxttGj0puXcEwUXFCwuidJUtjH/w400-h300/Pleats%20(1).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pinning the box-pleated trim in place.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here's what the newly-trimmed skirt looked like when finished:</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDoW4DyOnurvfZtVkH5Tz_Qdd22Sp1HT2JCtZwdqc-DNXoMgkFE_eONa3Jp1mDNQiUktc3HlbTbfkLu6yQINvSQDAp4aFYuKRcAEzb2Pp8WJZlZFxRPFYvYRZrcHo4Aa_9WRaOGtOpCsmRmeWl7pkETkElAdUDGuKQvFWeBGXi6aNKlboJIICnSEyC/s3990/Bustle%20Skirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3990" data-original-width="3990" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDoW4DyOnurvfZtVkH5Tz_Qdd22Sp1HT2JCtZwdqc-DNXoMgkFE_eONa3Jp1mDNQiUktc3HlbTbfkLu6yQINvSQDAp4aFYuKRcAEzb2Pp8WJZlZFxRPFYvYRZrcHo4Aa_9WRaOGtOpCsmRmeWl7pkETkElAdUDGuKQvFWeBGXi6aNKlboJIICnSEyC/w400-h400/Bustle%20Skirt.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished skirt with a box-pleated, bias band of trim: front and side views.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCvTs4TNXup8Jwz_z_SN_GRMe13-dbsSzewjQb2w8_Y3ICtqSnuxw6VXZKjbiaBvqR9szw_Lq-LzAAkj57lMOnYQOd1VxNgIxUqxqx029nOzWvsDfzpv-zy2J5tBnLYTdCw7oZg8yZpalYtIt7IbtJ3BaPlQgmBQNDlllIjB-O0K9FLOfrId51EXzT/s4000/Bustle%20Skirt%20-%20Left%20Side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="4000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCvTs4TNXup8Jwz_z_SN_GRMe13-dbsSzewjQb2w8_Y3ICtqSnuxw6VXZKjbiaBvqR9szw_Lq-LzAAkj57lMOnYQOd1VxNgIxUqxqx029nOzWvsDfzpv-zy2J5tBnLYTdCw7oZg8yZpalYtIt7IbtJ3BaPlQgmBQNDlllIjB-O0K9FLOfrId51EXzT/w400-h400/Bustle%20Skirt%20-%20Left%20Side.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Additional side and side-back views of the finished skirt.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />With the skirt finished, I moved onto the draperies. For these, I traced the pieces from Truly Victorian's <a href="https://trulyvictorian.info/index.php/product/tv382-1886-asymmetrical-drapery-add-on/">1886 Asymmetrical Drapery Add-on pattern (TV382)</a>. According to the pattern directions, this add-on is made one with the skirt; but mine is meant to be a separate piece and pleated onto its own waistband. This way, I can mix-and-match the pieces, if I do end up making a navy-blue wool or solid silk underskirt.<div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7NK0ia5bducdU0Te4ljIqgflSMhGLnKIlHpA-n6BZ7AYyWMxdvBfGCSlUv-yyngvuQuO0_YxFMtXisA92BI7pklSvKB4L4En_X3IfnVw3uEVTsz5FGQ01s_5tJA3-C6J2lz2IiXzkmoCT3wHXXpwb7q215jF-08M5d1LqRU9u9SEaKfR-P2wxJfUr/s4000/Front%20Draperies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="4000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7NK0ia5bducdU0Te4ljIqgflSMhGLnKIlHpA-n6BZ7AYyWMxdvBfGCSlUv-yyngvuQuO0_YxFMtXisA92BI7pklSvKB4L4En_X3IfnVw3uEVTsz5FGQ01s_5tJA3-C6J2lz2IiXzkmoCT3wHXXpwb7q215jF-08M5d1LqRU9u9SEaKfR-P2wxJfUr/w400-h400/Front%20Draperies.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drapery in progress...a look at the finished front.<br />The front and back draperies were trimmed and pleated separately, <br />before being joined at the sides and attached to a waistband.</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>I lined both the front and back draperies with cotton lawn to give them more body. I applied the same box-pleated bias trim to the long sides, playing with the direction of the plaids. </div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6WJYu484UshJyX0ftaSfhgVzO2jDrHlSqWj867dmQqw-j_85Clmvr04LEdzGQhigrON1DCME55dFbX61VHMMkTyoz4EdzQMbJcJqpgMTbArQpfgZxaUCT9V73SgjJi19i7FO2C044oJvfI5VAd2UcX6R7dnwotjKzIHSwwb7j8MxiTcMIdxqsuG1m/s4032/Front%20Drapery%20(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6WJYu484UshJyX0ftaSfhgVzO2jDrHlSqWj867dmQqw-j_85Clmvr04LEdzGQhigrON1DCME55dFbX61VHMMkTyoz4EdzQMbJcJqpgMTbArQpfgZxaUCT9V73SgjJi19i7FO2C044oJvfI5VAd2UcX6R7dnwotjKzIHSwwb7j8MxiTcMIdxqsuG1m/w300-h400/Front%20Drapery%20(2).JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside view of the front drapery, showing cotton lawn lining.<br />Both the front and back draperies were finished with 1" hems, <br />and trimmed with the matching box-pleated bias bands.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />After both the front and back draperies were trimmed and pleated, I attached them together at the left side. I mounted them on a waistband - this time made of the fashion fabric with lining - matching the pleats to the front, sides, and back of the skirt. The waistband overlaps at the right, and fastens with a metal skirt hook and bar. With that, both the skirt and draperies were complete! </div></div><div><br /></div><div><b><u>Completed Project Pictures</u></b> </div><div><br /></div><div>Finished skirt and draperies for my c.1883-86 plaid ensemble: </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOnt06DPFYLW_gYfSaAUdPCNuPwrsOR7xy8TKAOEtcM_BTLc_-1Ft8xE5LrP7ZvwZ8I0NoFqufAcQXzVSg1G6B5TbKgm85wgsdB-gF74wtVDCqtDBcxsLNrTEml6aV6XXDrVu6QIllNbupqQLGUb0rKQXk2TzUnnsbfAcDWYqfOaWKtzRB7veA4Myu/s3806/Front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3806" data-original-width="2854" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOnt06DPFYLW_gYfSaAUdPCNuPwrsOR7xy8TKAOEtcM_BTLc_-1Ft8xE5LrP7ZvwZ8I0NoFqufAcQXzVSg1G6B5TbKgm85wgsdB-gF74wtVDCqtDBcxsLNrTEml6aV6XXDrVu6QIllNbupqQLGUb0rKQXk2TzUnnsbfAcDWYqfOaWKtzRB7veA4Myu/w480-h640/Front.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Font view of c.1883-86 plaid skirt & draperies.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhziuGDnqfbfddr0kKk1ATlEzAcy2wZ_ONiXGTyC7sPdWzXJMFB8bUgys3im5M12QfTFXnAgKKaRpa8XWt2F-stFlKt-Jrjz_aQwpk1UwqRzOnjSGpdBbzW0xoFhC6GCMJTANvUZVixyBOIgnfHqzNWRJaFVlV3-w0FwR-M0M2gVwVlZYSRo1Nc24g-/s3772/Side%20Front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3772" data-original-width="2829" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhziuGDnqfbfddr0kKk1ATlEzAcy2wZ_ONiXGTyC7sPdWzXJMFB8bUgys3im5M12QfTFXnAgKKaRpa8XWt2F-stFlKt-Jrjz_aQwpk1UwqRzOnjSGpdBbzW0xoFhC6GCMJTANvUZVixyBOIgnfHqzNWRJaFVlV3-w0FwR-M0M2gVwVlZYSRo1Nc24g-/w480-h640/Side%20Front.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIugy8ivh0sZ_gvRLj9m7XOQft_O9WSa1YWWUm8gzn19a_J2jxVpXvPNW87Z71nB_MGd3WjN_stxTAiqehmbb1jO5WjTf0iFQUnEKdo82QAxe87F-suCAkW44iJpFA4goengkK9Cf2sIjG58SmlQFLJSXOuGE14JgLSqGzrEwzV2j1LQuIJAWh-VsE/s3844/Side%201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3844" data-original-width="2883" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIugy8ivh0sZ_gvRLj9m7XOQft_O9WSa1YWWUm8gzn19a_J2jxVpXvPNW87Z71nB_MGd3WjN_stxTAiqehmbb1jO5WjTf0iFQUnEKdo82QAxe87F-suCAkW44iJpFA4goengkK9Cf2sIjG58SmlQFLJSXOuGE14JgLSqGzrEwzV2j1LQuIJAWh-VsE/w480-h640/Side%201.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDfsa5pb9CPmtzRzPbbH6l1gQmxYJ5tS4R8xlPljidEvj36YkUMhPJWiouZkXXoDdYpINM4UoQ96-Rk71qJJembmu79uuemxHGFi_CZ8rMxAbHUbwdQKjEcG1648q-LkJN-kB4-z47czqVnWxsYM_XPyihNt4GEApNMeiO-7wECBcr13e9CTIWD6Xj/s3737/Side%20Back%202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3737" data-original-width="2803" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDfsa5pb9CPmtzRzPbbH6l1gQmxYJ5tS4R8xlPljidEvj36YkUMhPJWiouZkXXoDdYpINM4UoQ96-Rk71qJJembmu79uuemxHGFi_CZ8rMxAbHUbwdQKjEcG1648q-LkJN-kB4-z47czqVnWxsYM_XPyihNt4GEApNMeiO-7wECBcr13e9CTIWD6Xj/w480-h640/Side%20Back%202.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_EcOkeOaEjJw3NuEeCkqyXoSU3JxJ4chKl7vUnslDORVNrsRAoSebd263wHpS8x5f2on4HjVl1_j6UY0TEKUKoohUyOvD5Z7ugVrOoWDHeWKp0L-qt3Ipgj1z88zCIdPsgTOoZiymPCiPMt4bMFslEF2KhJYZ74R0BocEQTjEkDR4IpomOGqU3MjQ/s3914/Side%20Front%202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3914" data-original-width="2936" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_EcOkeOaEjJw3NuEeCkqyXoSU3JxJ4chKl7vUnslDORVNrsRAoSebd263wHpS8x5f2on4HjVl1_j6UY0TEKUKoohUyOvD5Z7ugVrOoWDHeWKp0L-qt3Ipgj1z88zCIdPsgTOoZiymPCiPMt4bMFslEF2KhJYZ74R0BocEQTjEkDR4IpomOGqU3MjQ/w480-h640/Side%20Front%202.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ZBBzTm6fcZ24cUY6I-WYsJY-yVng4fpJOHBL_Aw-NvBhAmGJcNSMMNoYFXh8YQXn3oyLLSV1XxBwEFQr4v6zvgskFwmiBlj5v91vvXHIM_WYsXIxbkySbmLp53C_NWnDA-EEnHQYyeoHzzIWuMzBi5nCQ1KUA8ssgw4QPeQRz-dV7xgjWCkKPdeR/s3971/Side%202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3971" data-original-width="2978" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ZBBzTm6fcZ24cUY6I-WYsJY-yVng4fpJOHBL_Aw-NvBhAmGJcNSMMNoYFXh8YQXn3oyLLSV1XxBwEFQr4v6zvgskFwmiBlj5v91vvXHIM_WYsXIxbkySbmLp53C_NWnDA-EEnHQYyeoHzzIWuMzBi5nCQ1KUA8ssgw4QPeQRz-dV7xgjWCkKPdeR/w480-h640/Side%202.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My favorite side view - <i>just look at all of those pleats!</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnVq857bxDfiNq8Z1OTNWQPOdEwOE_qr3BMho1fxlWSIQgmRMjPwRD17V12hVNZA7fS-_ibqu8IP-aql77WvMkpN2kF6eaRhhPuYjUzaaDs-l0E3oikhQ-e4ppt3u-vPFNpR3RmfhlfdV6mUrbA_8v8FwzQ0HAXrtokAmPAXhBKMBHSvzRmSzrBDLU/s3844/Side%20Back%201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3844" data-original-width="2883" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnVq857bxDfiNq8Z1OTNWQPOdEwOE_qr3BMho1fxlWSIQgmRMjPwRD17V12hVNZA7fS-_ibqu8IP-aql77WvMkpN2kF6eaRhhPuYjUzaaDs-l0E3oikhQ-e4ppt3u-vPFNpR3RmfhlfdV6mUrbA_8v8FwzQ0HAXrtokAmPAXhBKMBHSvzRmSzrBDLU/w480-h640/Side%20Back%201.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdUHaeQAX-A-LW-a_HfRB0wVd4lVvQcmRPXdjZLEXjcivdRwIx23ecWY3jACqxwykJveFz8IFfh_fmrBXq8W58_gP4eXqgP7XohZnePwNB_H4g8aLqByhaB0eYYO0OQPaeVXh8gVKVfAC6BbcikF--w0JQkeEnNiZmjQiFLOx79wD9bs8ggeuwIkbv/s3914/Back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3914" data-original-width="2936" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdUHaeQAX-A-LW-a_HfRB0wVd4lVvQcmRPXdjZLEXjcivdRwIx23ecWY3jACqxwykJveFz8IFfh_fmrBXq8W58_gP4eXqgP7XohZnePwNB_H4g8aLqByhaB0eYYO0OQPaeVXh8gVKVfAC6BbcikF--w0JQkeEnNiZmjQiFLOx79wD9bs8ggeuwIkbv/w480-h640/Back.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view of the c.1883-86 plaid skirt & draperies.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ttZFAGyRplkEpjobaCxY2s3gFS7P0qUcjOWF9lPyuPqVeMSLFrXPRT-8jhW7kAjJQzhi5O26g8z-QQi0ztMprbd6lsNzjSF6DvtLCS0FCsClNdttL7mn2s4FQCFpj8Q9djgfbuhQK3Q0CxPRIOQv6SvdRkWFc4wHVJHCLqhIcgWjvo0wfDf1BiGH/s3952/Back%20Detail.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3952" data-original-width="2964" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ttZFAGyRplkEpjobaCxY2s3gFS7P0qUcjOWF9lPyuPqVeMSLFrXPRT-8jhW7kAjJQzhi5O26g8z-QQi0ztMprbd6lsNzjSF6DvtLCS0FCsClNdttL7mn2s4FQCFpj8Q9djgfbuhQK3Q0CxPRIOQv6SvdRkWFc4wHVJHCLqhIcgWjvo0wfDf1BiGH/w480-h640/Back%20Detail.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail shot of the burnous pleats, which are large folds of fabric left free from the waistband <br />and hang down in a cascading loop.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Wish me luck as I tackle a bodice and tall hat next!<div><br /></div><div><i><br /></i></div><div><div><i>Like what you see here and want to support the creation of future content and fashion history programming? Consider joining us over on <a href="https://www.patreon.com/sewphisticate">Patreon</a> with pledges starting at $2/month, and you'll also unlock exclusive content like bonus blog posts and more! Follow @youngsewphisticate on Facebook & Instagram for regular updates.</i></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Thank you for reading & special thanks to our generous patrons!</b></div></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-67520526099965003102023-02-06T10:00:00.001-05:002023-02-06T10:00:00.206-05:00Making an 1820s Corded Petticoat<div>My first completed - <i>and now blogged about</i> - sewing project of 2023 is an 1820s corded petticoat! </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZpENtJyYbn-xP_r41IHe3lPV8F_0kmB7ZlNii53sluoQsqFlZH2MmSOI23oWCbT-A8FlASOw2Zg7YFhAy3zHaEPno9I42U6uXfzyQambCNpGkdiIAoMNO1xxRcIve8PKy1-_SHSEUAkgfNJ16apafAxMsx7PiE-KxMwFNyVqweUKuDtedjP-NCA0x/s2000/Making%20an%201820s%20Corded%20Petticoat.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1429" data-original-width="2000" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZpENtJyYbn-xP_r41IHe3lPV8F_0kmB7ZlNii53sluoQsqFlZH2MmSOI23oWCbT-A8FlASOw2Zg7YFhAy3zHaEPno9I42U6uXfzyQambCNpGkdiIAoMNO1xxRcIve8PKy1-_SHSEUAkgfNJ16apafAxMsx7PiE-KxMwFNyVqweUKuDtedjP-NCA0x/w640-h458/Making%20an%201820s%20Corded%20Petticoat.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">If you've been following along over on the Facebook page and Instagram @youngsewphisticate, you'll know that I've been working on a few projects simultaneously, including a plaid 1880s ensemble and the beginnings of an early-1820s wardrobe. Both projects are for "getting dressed" programs later this year <i>(the details of which are still secrets!) </i>- and while it seems silly <i>(overwhelming perhaps?) </i>to take on two new eras, I need the challenge to keep pushing my sewing skills. Especially post-college, and now that I'm no longer wearing historical clothing as part of my daily job...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Anyways, the project I'll be featuring in this post is my newly completed 1820s petticoat. I wanted something to bridge the gap in my wardrobe between my rather columnar, 1810s bodiced petticoat and 1830s petticoats - both corded and tucked - which sit a the natural waistline. Enter the perfect combination of the two - a high-waisted bodiced petticoat with a corded hem and full flounce!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: 700;"><u>Historical Inspiration</u></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: 700;"><u><br /></u></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">When looking at examples of 1820s petticoats, <i>(yes, I made a whole pinterest board), </i>the one that kept popping up in searches is the c.1828-1835 bodiced petticoat <span style="text-align: center;">from the Manchester City Galleries. Quinn of the </span><i>Quintessential Clothes Pen</i> blog, made her own c.1822-1824 version after the Manchester original, and you can read about her sewing project, here: <a href="https://thequintessentialclothespen.com/2012/11/27/project-journal-1822-1824-ensemble-part-ii-initial-petticoat-details/">Project Journal: 1822-1824 Ensemble Part II: Initial Petticoat Detail</a></div></div><div><div><br /></div><div>A couple of other inspirational examples include this petticoat, unfortunately without a source other than the watermark: I knew I wanted a flounce at the hem of my petticoat to give it more body and volume, without having to wear a second petticoat. This example also has gentle pleats at the front, which would presumably be more concentrated at the back, and two flounces with whitework trimming. </div><div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgszX8cS3_wOSq5pWiRBVYAABPUuT-fctMjyZURl3xcnlCIXmkviTwIdApm1eGvp52K7cbz56VKQJVTUoRY6bb3uzTZTvyZJ_waiju9Hg8ajzw5VYY2hG2057Bp5dmBsQS218kDfU3IMi_SY9MHH_q9OUBnXlWn0hEEgnEYzB0icdM5P0oQ7YQa7mq3/s923/b56b06f4fa0344a4db796013f87b0b10.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="923" data-original-width="564" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgszX8cS3_wOSq5pWiRBVYAABPUuT-fctMjyZURl3xcnlCIXmkviTwIdApm1eGvp52K7cbz56VKQJVTUoRY6bb3uzTZTvyZJ_waiju9Hg8ajzw5VYY2hG2057Bp5dmBsQS218kDfU3IMi_SY9MHH_q9OUBnXlWn0hEEgnEYzB0icdM5P0oQ7YQa7mq3/w390-h640/b56b06f4fa0344a4db796013f87b0b10.jpg" width="390" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petticoat, c.1820-1825<br />(Image source: <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/404409241552440532/">Pinterest</a>)</td></tr></tbody></table><br />I also took lead on the corded hem from this example from the Victoria & Albert Museum, which has two blocks of cording, and six rows in each section. There appears to be a deep tuck right at or above knee-level - and I mimicked this, as you'll read later, with a French seam to add much-needed length to my skirt. Also, according to the entry, the original petticoat's hem circumference measures 220cm. (which is 86.6 in.), and my reproduction ended up being just under 90" too. </div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl-ikBhI_TDo3U0dYbAndpdNKVu9zQLbt4mezI3EdlxLDROJZkos7k3WCA6yzmOaStya2B8iCqarQQpWESpO3TPtAgwsndHexfscgs97UcwdCsIPQVuxoUgg_LIyOxOncCee5YCQTJFr6Usyf0eOUe-Uoxq6IqrkdwR_IJB4Gpm_c_EiszH1LIXyj-/s2500/2012FH8255.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2500" data-original-width="1875" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl-ikBhI_TDo3U0dYbAndpdNKVu9zQLbt4mezI3EdlxLDROJZkos7k3WCA6yzmOaStya2B8iCqarQQpWESpO3TPtAgwsndHexfscgs97UcwdCsIPQVuxoUgg_LIyOxOncCee5YCQTJFr6Usyf0eOUe-Uoxq6IqrkdwR_IJB4Gpm_c_EiszH1LIXyj-/w480-h640/2012FH8255.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petticoat, c.1820-1829 <br /><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354431/petticoat-unknown/">Victoria & Albert Museum</a>, (accession number: T.194-1929)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div><div><b><u>Construction Details</u></b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><div>Now for the making of my own 1820s petticoat! I like to start with the skirt portion, because it's usually all rectangles. In my mind, skirts are the easier, but more tedious, part of construction - giving me the mojo to tackle the more difficult and fiddly bodice. When both parts are done, all that's left to do is join the top and bottom, add closures, and then you're finished! <i>But, I'm getting ahead of myself here...</i></div><div><br /></div><div>For this petticoat, I started at the hem and worked my way up. I flat-felled two lengths of cotton muslin to create a ~90" tube, and folded it in half. To cord the hem, I sandwiched rows of <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Lily-Sugar-Cream-Original-Solid/dp/B001683JHQ?th=1">sugar-n-cream crochet yarn</a> between the two layers, and stitched, and stitched, <i>and stitched</i>, in a continuous circle until I felt like I had enough rows. Then, I skipped an inch, and made another, smaller section of cording. </div><div><br /></div><div>Once the two sections were corded to my liking, I folded the inner edge by a 1/2" and topstitched to enclose the raw edge: </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfg7pmf2x1O1Wg8WK6ePBAu87mSP9lP0gJlyq8qevpBGCjO5jOM2M_DWjW1Ooq10MmBR-jNo0MKR9jiHt_aqS_Daa1PVymjees3tNgIQukpR_w4hX0Ls0WZIBTmFI5hozWQi4UMqg8Kbfe5ht682-o7SH7W5GcqU8seNQQ-selMpvYtulU3cQAiksL/s3003/Cording%20the%20Hem%20(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3003" data-original-width="3003" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfg7pmf2x1O1Wg8WK6ePBAu87mSP9lP0gJlyq8qevpBGCjO5jOM2M_DWjW1Ooq10MmBR-jNo0MKR9jiHt_aqS_Daa1PVymjees3tNgIQukpR_w4hX0Ls0WZIBTmFI5hozWQi4UMqg8Kbfe5ht682-o7SH7W5GcqU8seNQQ-selMpvYtulU3cQAiksL/w400-h400/Cording%20the%20Hem%20(1).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finishing the edge of the corded panel.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGnBZcHHoFV51Y_2xC8eMgkpwcXNdHUCEjDOozdu_HVCIkBL9cI4sK42q9FvBGnMroUudpAketIuIgLyEqXeJCmHO-fcTV8RnkgYe1qkxrkm53Lx8-ra8Zc021HQT0JnEISHuQ4mAMJnwYea3fgAGRc_ruk-s3chKdtj9PXl3__z9Px5LBYDI25g2y/s2984/Cording%20the%20Hem%20(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2984" data-original-width="2984" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGnBZcHHoFV51Y_2xC8eMgkpwcXNdHUCEjDOozdu_HVCIkBL9cI4sK42q9FvBGnMroUudpAketIuIgLyEqXeJCmHO-fcTV8RnkgYe1qkxrkm53Lx8-ra8Zc021HQT0JnEISHuQ4mAMJnwYea3fgAGRc_ruk-s3chKdtj9PXl3__z9Px5LBYDI25g2y/w400-h400/Cording%20the%20Hem%20(2).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The finished hem with two blocks of continuous cording!<br />Cording provides volume at the hem of the skirt,<br /> and keeps all the layers from tangling around the wearer's legs. </td></tr></tbody></table><br />Next, I worked on the flounce. By mounting a deep flounce over the corded panel, I'm smoothing the line of cording, and creating more volume at hem without having to wear a second petticoat. The 1820s was a transitional fashion period between the columnar silhouette of the previous decade, and the bell-shaped skirts of the 1830s. </div><div><br /></div><div>My flounce ended up being a little wider than I initially planned, but I didn't want to cut the <i>gorgeous,</i> scalloped whitework trim that I found! So, instead of 1.5x, I went with 2x the width of the hem. After sewing enough lengths of muslin together, I finished the hem by turning it a 1/4" twice. Then, very carefully, I edgestitched the lace, which had a machine overcasting, so I didn't have to worry about fraying. I divided the ruffle into four sections, and evenly gathered it around:</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFKkdda96fIsi2SgSTxZ8jSWjD1O8GaXfiN7rtyQCUMeLe8GNqCeCSFsGg5i7laJmWAx_IszjR98c2ml_gI980y4Tt4VEhWM5JcwMFBjjv40M6FjxlW7q_F77dymUUxisBTMu4hJiAtTghksXhCbkF6wyUstL-oQZvtuAC0VZbgtWMHmAIY4k-SlLp/s3024/Hem%20-%20Mounting%20Flounce.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFKkdda96fIsi2SgSTxZ8jSWjD1O8GaXfiN7rtyQCUMeLe8GNqCeCSFsGg5i7laJmWAx_IszjR98c2ml_gI980y4Tt4VEhWM5JcwMFBjjv40M6FjxlW7q_F77dymUUxisBTMu4hJiAtTghksXhCbkF6wyUstL-oQZvtuAC0VZbgtWMHmAIY4k-SlLp/w400-h400/Hem%20-%20Mounting%20Flounce.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gathering the flounce to the petticoat hem.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Once the gathers were pinned in place, I went ahead and stitched at a 1/2" from the top. To cover the raw edges, I pressed a 1" band of self-fabric bias, and topstitched to neatly encase the seam allowances. At this point, the hem needed a good pressing too. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0SsPsH36c85pWyqF3T9ixr_o9rOGe9X88uHZIq7QB7mYWR0Mptj1233NohVYBaV4mmo2yvUUtzQl_v_AS7BvAYWA78PsZJVIP-0n1YDxuQHeNsmIKfZQxGnPvM5iazUB_WwgtVNAm_9oINeqjPHODyP9yl_nbu00LN7ufi_FCXPiDFMPVJUjdTl4d/s3024/Hem%20-%20Detail.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0SsPsH36c85pWyqF3T9ixr_o9rOGe9X88uHZIq7QB7mYWR0Mptj1233NohVYBaV4mmo2yvUUtzQl_v_AS7BvAYWA78PsZJVIP-0n1YDxuQHeNsmIKfZQxGnPvM5iazUB_WwgtVNAm_9oINeqjPHODyP9yl_nbu00LN7ufi_FCXPiDFMPVJUjdTl4d/w400-h400/Hem%20-%20Detail.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flounce with scalloped whitework trim mounted above the corded panel.<br />A 1" band of bias neatly covers the top of the flounce.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>To finish the skirt, I needed to add length to the corded panel. I cut and flat-felled another ~90" tube, and attached the pieces with a 1" French seam to mimic a tuck, and to match the length of the bias band. The corded panel with the flounce is quite heavy, so the double fold of the French seam also made for a stronger seam. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxILnTjgttFNbGBMLpo90nTbY7fvNJeAd19Zlbqnwv7fJ1NsTivuI-DJEg0NimYiPbhDfLTQCWIyFU5twGWj6hKnA6WYCn56N5lTYFZuowAQAqLfr8tGQPXWcqZjdWD187PwtXoYhhtX7VzuTb0tkdWHvj5_cOft-wGRb_Fi2GRXT_TqcGHpjUPu-p/s3024/Hem%20-%20Bias%20Over%20Flounce%20&%20French%20Seam.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxILnTjgttFNbGBMLpo90nTbY7fvNJeAd19Zlbqnwv7fJ1NsTivuI-DJEg0NimYiPbhDfLTQCWIyFU5twGWj6hKnA6WYCn56N5lTYFZuowAQAqLfr8tGQPXWcqZjdWD187PwtXoYhhtX7VzuTb0tkdWHvj5_cOft-wGRb_Fi2GRXT_TqcGHpjUPu-p/w400-h400/Hem%20-%20Bias%20Over%20Flounce%20&%20French%20Seam.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flounce all attached!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWWWIlqKxYD-gZ_hFtfMiFiAAT9-9IGzSUOkaIOWe4BlhaDAtfGzIHOJxbgGp0Yvqoo-8bwZUar0EfiRXUZU2qckKoFKpRoes6jCSawrGZBCY25br60ewHPI27zACdjStYuXmH3XuTP1YQ-Ic2pHqT13Sn7ZGu4W98c46BlZq_uIw9tmGFTxoANGys/s3024/Hem%20-%20Interior%20Corded%20Panel%20&%20French%20Seam.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWWWIlqKxYD-gZ_hFtfMiFiAAT9-9IGzSUOkaIOWe4BlhaDAtfGzIHOJxbgGp0Yvqoo-8bwZUar0EfiRXUZU2qckKoFKpRoes6jCSawrGZBCY25br60ewHPI27zACdjStYuXmH3XuTP1YQ-Ic2pHqT13Sn7ZGu4W98c46BlZq_uIw9tmGFTxoANGys/w400-h400/Hem%20-%20Interior%20Corded%20Panel%20&%20French%20Seam.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same view as the image above, but from the inside. <br />Notice the corded panel, rows of stitching where the bias band is attached, <br />and French seam joining the upper portion of the skirt.<br />The scalloped trim is set 1" lower than the corded hem. <br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div>I did balance the skirt so that the front and sides are 1" shorter than the back, but at this point, the skirt was finished and set aside to work on the bodice: </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW7Qg4Ajt6f5zP1ThyJo8kiYmZFgCN9hJPVajyHvzUeRIiJYHdvuEkl_viYIkSn_aMJc2c1pLE_Vty-9j3Xe3K-BNTw0Zfk1RggYVBtW_SR-W9C4802enqqQQNI78ZvhoQ1L_4c43vstBShY8Fo0fa-wCNmK98o4MfBKqZTGMcYKE66KfEZutCYm2T/s3024/Skirt%20-%20Outside.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW7Qg4Ajt6f5zP1ThyJo8kiYmZFgCN9hJPVajyHvzUeRIiJYHdvuEkl_viYIkSn_aMJc2c1pLE_Vty-9j3Xe3K-BNTw0Zfk1RggYVBtW_SR-W9C4802enqqQQNI78ZvhoQ1L_4c43vstBShY8Fo0fa-wCNmK98o4MfBKqZTGMcYKE66KfEZutCYm2T/w400-h400/Skirt%20-%20Outside.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished skirt, outside.</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR_2cVg29m93H_6p2foZQthyfYpzBT79CIEmbQ-D0PZ8oQ-hzwJO-jkcnGDAsZ75sDZD9adRj7GNdXgbxCobH76Ns5pxJ8VbpU2f1GNbY9YF7Y8bihofRR6iXXQNUnwZJvKsHiJe0KVUTvrVV5QSPqqiQKsfK1WtJ8_I26GqatMMDAF6ClOLzo92rL/s3024/Skirt%20-%20Inside.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR_2cVg29m93H_6p2foZQthyfYpzBT79CIEmbQ-D0PZ8oQ-hzwJO-jkcnGDAsZ75sDZD9adRj7GNdXgbxCobH76Ns5pxJ8VbpU2f1GNbY9YF7Y8bihofRR6iXXQNUnwZJvKsHiJe0KVUTvrVV5QSPqqiQKsfK1WtJ8_I26GqatMMDAF6ClOLzo92rL/w400-h400/Skirt%20-%20Inside.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished skirt, inside. </td></tr></tbody></table><br />Moving along to the bodice...since I spent so much time on finishings for the skirt, I thought it only appropriate to make sure the interiors of the bodice were just as tidy. I did actually do the bodice twice over - this first time, I used a thin cotton batiste, thinking I would cut down on the bulk of the bodice (since I line all of my dresses). However, I was afraid the weight of the skirt might stretch or tear the finer cotton - so I made a second bodice out of the same cotton muslin I used for the skirt and flounce. </div><div><br /></div><div>I didn't take any pictures the first time, so during the redo, I made sure to document the sewing trick I used for lining the bodice, which is called the "burrito method!" It's kind of tricky to explain with words, but I promise it's much easier in practice, as long as you tuck and roll the fabric the right way. If you're a visual person, I made a 30-second TikTok tutorial on <a href="https://www.tiktok.com/@youngsewphisticate/video/7196695007745625386?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7153806179276965418">how to line a bodice using the “burrito method”</a>. (If this is your first time, I also recommend this step-by-step, illustrated guide with an accompanying YouTube tutorial by Melly Sews on <a href="https://mellysews.com/sew-lined-bodice-burrito-method/">How to Sew a Lined Bodice - the "Burrito Method"</a>). </div><div><br /></div><div>To further explain, the "burrito method" is a similar idea to bag-lining, except that armholes get in the way...first, you'll prep the fronts and backs separately. For me, this meant sewing the curved seams on the fashion fabric and linings, clipping, and pressing over a tailor's ham. Then, I joined the front and backs at the shoulders, and stitched along the entire neckline. Optional, but to help the lining roll to the inside, I understitch the neckline (and seam allowances) as well. Clip curves and carefully press over a tailor's ham. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg_gBwoVuTMks_tD5gkgsLQAmP9Y1GhLz6bNWl6QQpco8aIBjiO1OdKQuddXOpXWAWCknVBfaHXUXgr7jSC2114Eo2qL_P0q84uYDd7JjWD3YT1a2ybCyCHY1N_Bql8lkHqaWnBV8iv9fvFV8apFR-ucL2bU16yc9F7b1tbY1GFkqdwP9e2hiBPR2J/s3780/Burrito%20Method%20for%20Lining%20a%20Bodice%20(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3780" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg_gBwoVuTMks_tD5gkgsLQAmP9Y1GhLz6bNWl6QQpco8aIBjiO1OdKQuddXOpXWAWCknVBfaHXUXgr7jSC2114Eo2qL_P0q84uYDd7JjWD3YT1a2ybCyCHY1N_Bql8lkHqaWnBV8iv9fvFV8apFR-ucL2bU16yc9F7b1tbY1GFkqdwP9e2hiBPR2J/w320-h400/Burrito%20Method%20for%20Lining%20a%20Bodice%20(1).JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step one: join fronts and backs at the shoulders; sew around the neckline.<br />Understitch to keep the lining in place, clip curves, and press over a tailor's ham. <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Now for the burrito part - tightly roll one side into the shoulder strap of the other. Pin along the armscye (armhole), seam, and clip curves. </div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix_DnjIU2bpT01dNq7eOnRXa_A-2S-rm38HW6roKVOJErhYLXZw2ICACZqvR_ev-bGnznoJt5bkZSPkKlGc3taYmivs_VeG0gR8oZ2Je9VZBUVXO1SCsv_S0WyfWhfHGs9lbgb_IVUbH3RZTxExAcmeAEwNqIYTGwKbTBWMlplYnovkLcjfaUJ73_p/s4032/Burrito%20Method%20for%20Lining%20a%20Bodice%20(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix_DnjIU2bpT01dNq7eOnRXa_A-2S-rm38HW6roKVOJErhYLXZw2ICACZqvR_ev-bGnznoJt5bkZSPkKlGc3taYmivs_VeG0gR8oZ2Je9VZBUVXO1SCsv_S0WyfWhfHGs9lbgb_IVUbH3RZTxExAcmeAEwNqIYTGwKbTBWMlplYnovkLcjfaUJ73_p/w300-h400/Burrito%20Method%20for%20Lining%20a%20Bodice%20(2).JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step two: roll one side into the shoulder strap of the other, and stitch the armscye (armhole).</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Turn right sides out, and press well. In the picture below, the right side and shoulder strap are neatly finished, while the outer edge on the left still needs to be sewn: <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQv9sJVZL_Ku05Ri4_0zOO-RNyimxaW8Ip0vy0hJOufd0ZWxdEuGvLW2w_cpFHoVqM77PsBaJx-R4311zooShZI-K13uRBz2eX0ZZbRe7_91-D98ZgPZUD8hRKPGDs7yW9zNdu8ZJaX5Yty-edRuKIqYsNu87HHSfkGCUwq6VwFlOzaiHO19mjXLHQ/s3780/Burrito%20Method%20for%20Lining%20a%20Bodice%20(3).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3780" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQv9sJVZL_Ku05Ri4_0zOO-RNyimxaW8Ip0vy0hJOufd0ZWxdEuGvLW2w_cpFHoVqM77PsBaJx-R4311zooShZI-K13uRBz2eX0ZZbRe7_91-D98ZgPZUD8hRKPGDs7yW9zNdu8ZJaX5Yty-edRuKIqYsNu87HHSfkGCUwq6VwFlOzaiHO19mjXLHQ/w320-h400/Burrito%20Method%20for%20Lining%20a%20Bodice%20(3).JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step three: turn right sides out and press shoulder strap and armscye.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Repeat the burrito on the other side, tucking and rolling the finished side into the other shoulder strap. Pin and stitch the second armscye as before. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkJCLgSdDFPZIIum00iNzfvrDl-guBxDClYgPvNTKxHtL8jOD52a30TWyGMvDHsWqBHj3T6uZBTEWpzFJRFhLW-BrEK6BLlK3S7JiveSRJkpI8LpV-CLPAaIoca2t6-xdFmA-m9uXV7qeDf6_JWnApeX6gC9t-a3bq1NeuoyP1_aw9D3o-zQlrVV9S/s3780/Burrito%20Method%20for%20Lining%20a%20Bodice%20(4).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3780" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkJCLgSdDFPZIIum00iNzfvrDl-guBxDClYgPvNTKxHtL8jOD52a30TWyGMvDHsWqBHj3T6uZBTEWpzFJRFhLW-BrEK6BLlK3S7JiveSRJkpI8LpV-CLPAaIoca2t6-xdFmA-m9uXV7qeDf6_JWnApeX6gC9t-a3bq1NeuoyP1_aw9D3o-zQlrVV9S/w320-h400/Burrito%20Method%20for%20Lining%20a%20Bodice%20(4).JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step four: repeat for the second side.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Pull right sides out again, and finish the side seams by sewing rights sides together, matching lining to lining and fashion fabrics. Now you have a fully lined bodice! </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZyCUd_vfHjnDsU_xW6AH9IFlq-NT-F7XBhrAetiX3_-dPrvWTE430iLyURWe05s_PoMPkbdLluevAkT4m19apgzTOTUcRznL2Q5ykGGnNttWdVPUcbqSIbSlUQF9jpSviWJDMrd0zUQJm1_E1gs-Lxb8USJMtyXX96QmyseZNRmjYP1wX-7X_UCAB/s4032/Burrito%20Method%20for%20Lining%20a%20Bodice%20(6).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZyCUd_vfHjnDsU_xW6AH9IFlq-NT-F7XBhrAetiX3_-dPrvWTE430iLyURWe05s_PoMPkbdLluevAkT4m19apgzTOTUcRznL2Q5ykGGnNttWdVPUcbqSIbSlUQF9jpSviWJDMrd0zUQJm1_E1gs-Lxb8USJMtyXX96QmyseZNRmjYP1wX-7X_UCAB/w400-h300/Burrito%20Method%20for%20Lining%20a%20Bodice%20(6).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step five: sew side seams - and now you have a fully lined bodice!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPuoG0FG9__MzUhUjNpciD2F8P8UCOu-7yCaPBBj1dHKfm7Bx8JmwC_GK78ELQCLaCxwiLe83NMwYzYO8J4A-oTYvi8yjW0W08ZGV_Z9mACycqj-65K1RWQbto2CeByUqOmsfvkFYs-EvRRxrfrFD6KY0gTixRvx3bN7JQ-k1hBJuvbs7LH6d5NpI7/s4032/Burrito%20Method%20for%20Lining%20a%20Bodice%20(5).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPuoG0FG9__MzUhUjNpciD2F8P8UCOu-7yCaPBBj1dHKfm7Bx8JmwC_GK78ELQCLaCxwiLe83NMwYzYO8J4A-oTYvi8yjW0W08ZGV_Z9mACycqj-65K1RWQbto2CeByUqOmsfvkFYs-EvRRxrfrFD6KY0gTixRvx3bN7JQ-k1hBJuvbs7LH6d5NpI7/w400-h300/Burrito%20Method%20for%20Lining%20a%20Bodice%20(5).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bodice from the inside. <br />I pressed a 1/2" up on the lining, which will cover the skirt seam.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />With the bodice and skirt both finished separately, it was time to attach them! Since the petticoat is front-opening, I cut a slit at the center front of the skirt and hemmed the raw edges. Then, matching the skirt and bodice edges, I knife pleated and stitched them together. I whipped the lining over the raw edges at the waist, and topstitched along the joining seam. Two metal hooks and thread eyes serve as closures. </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW3-D6Nhp7sHpSYmoRTnqMX1nmOJvGaA_iwDSU4SiTOQqqnEuJdRRlolpJJDaetKkqxPxhPCsnxzkPhphPrJqczHxfZ8W-xtqafJIWj9ovCMgHUFHWq73xk8-d5bJG3M6aendVEHCbpSVKHLTB5gfuB2INRxQpWSBT5QCRdqWOPAp56otT9BhIZvbY/s3987/Pleated%20Skirt%20&%20Hooks.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3987" data-original-width="2990" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW3-D6Nhp7sHpSYmoRTnqMX1nmOJvGaA_iwDSU4SiTOQqqnEuJdRRlolpJJDaetKkqxPxhPCsnxzkPhphPrJqczHxfZ8W-xtqafJIWj9ovCMgHUFHWq73xk8-d5bJG3M6aendVEHCbpSVKHLTB5gfuB2INRxQpWSBT5QCRdqWOPAp56otT9BhIZvbY/w300-h400/Pleated%20Skirt%20&%20Hooks.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joining the bodice and skirt with directional knife pleats.<br />Two metal hooks and thread eyes serve as closures. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><div><div><br /></div><div><b><u>Completed Project Pictures</u></b></div></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div>I hope you enjoyed reading all the construction details - and now, <i>you know the drill</i>, it's time for completed project pictures! From all angles, here's the finished 1820s bodiced petticoat with a corded hem and decorative whitework flounce: </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTqXMYTNNfbn9Cj2Abn8at4-Jygps08lOYnC1---HjRldoXs8wGX5HwidXXNZgAG2QEvM_fxLJ4NxFjW0mcTKKtJyQLZVoiwJsJZkuopusXDoESlenSiRxKYMPlK633EXGRMpMPa1s92Zq33r2zNDA4j3D2PlGocPBWFE0MAtMv9vnX3ha1MaZQ4yi/s3760/Bodice%20Petticoat%20-%20Front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3760" data-original-width="2820" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTqXMYTNNfbn9Cj2Abn8at4-Jygps08lOYnC1---HjRldoXs8wGX5HwidXXNZgAG2QEvM_fxLJ4NxFjW0mcTKKtJyQLZVoiwJsJZkuopusXDoESlenSiRxKYMPlK633EXGRMpMPa1s92Zq33r2zNDA4j3D2PlGocPBWFE0MAtMv9vnX3ha1MaZQ4yi/w480-h640/Bodice%20Petticoat%20-%20Front.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8medM_8sLOiHByNR27v9MnoODQNxQPETuDrEXLJAJR6iut-AIu8t25bN84asMt_GfPjTYvDH9oqazDmqFqpdfcgWCbJBSRdOPHXPdOnOUZmMFmiCdHeTzg2cx45drBxCb_IOQfaozTRvXoSW12sipu6WfAzjMZ_BV6eHIT7KPWZeMP8UYoEfO4NUa/s4032/Bodiced%20Petticoat%20-%20Side%20Front%201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8medM_8sLOiHByNR27v9MnoODQNxQPETuDrEXLJAJR6iut-AIu8t25bN84asMt_GfPjTYvDH9oqazDmqFqpdfcgWCbJBSRdOPHXPdOnOUZmMFmiCdHeTzg2cx45drBxCb_IOQfaozTRvXoSW12sipu6WfAzjMZ_BV6eHIT7KPWZeMP8UYoEfO4NUa/w480-h640/Bodiced%20Petticoat%20-%20Side%20Front%201.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMZSgfLNqutibVGLwkXKiSpAyMiSrBQb70uEDHjOKnKut38jTQsWcqLB-ovi6ewYLZi7xbKudlbORhWBNcmMUNjSepkH8yKmZwwH5aEx4oZETTItC46lA-eWab5IW-fEhjabPedJAnpYtJBy9cUOVdM0_wXhz7Q6HGJiANiVmJ_3sO2rnhm_wysbqE/s4032/Bodiced%20Petticoat%20-%20Side%201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMZSgfLNqutibVGLwkXKiSpAyMiSrBQb70uEDHjOKnKut38jTQsWcqLB-ovi6ewYLZi7xbKudlbORhWBNcmMUNjSepkH8yKmZwwH5aEx4oZETTItC46lA-eWab5IW-fEhjabPedJAnpYtJBy9cUOVdM0_wXhz7Q6HGJiANiVmJ_3sO2rnhm_wysbqE/w480-h640/Bodiced%20Petticoat%20-%20Side%201.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgss_nI8fPxeV72IFysIqPDHquKOSbVwIzt21p0AjmSRoXt0wj_h-CQQeJ6j_-Jaz9vezjzX7TcA78WO_6Db3yjP-dGd8ClD_WPwQlK8naJd3WQFq4jEsFNllqa1RjQ4IKVT9sXm0Db0F6im8y0IebyDZPOWYCpUx7bP0UrGzNZo_DUgR9N9VoT3xz/s3774/Bodiced%20Petticoat%20-%20Side%20Front%202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3774" data-original-width="2831" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgss_nI8fPxeV72IFysIqPDHquKOSbVwIzt21p0AjmSRoXt0wj_h-CQQeJ6j_-Jaz9vezjzX7TcA78WO_6Db3yjP-dGd8ClD_WPwQlK8naJd3WQFq4jEsFNllqa1RjQ4IKVT9sXm0Db0F6im8y0IebyDZPOWYCpUx7bP0UrGzNZo_DUgR9N9VoT3xz/w480-h640/Bodiced%20Petticoat%20-%20Side%20Front%202.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbOECPo1Vzz4RLQFv_chdqkRHn59u_TLSTb0uDVInGCQZdu5YDnNMnL2ZHXPXL8o0ZtDN_tVp7EkEWBYfAtxRt-63qMW5MgAHTO2RswQvpDikzzDTF31za2VfbJedAB_dtZt0dm-uROoAvdALl7Aoy7oXcVqTjwe3DR9J-PaPiK_HOYlLeVmuC9rC4/s4032/Bodiced%20Petticoat%20-%20Corded%20Hem%20Detail.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbOECPo1Vzz4RLQFv_chdqkRHn59u_TLSTb0uDVInGCQZdu5YDnNMnL2ZHXPXL8o0ZtDN_tVp7EkEWBYfAtxRt-63qMW5MgAHTO2RswQvpDikzzDTF31za2VfbJedAB_dtZt0dm-uROoAvdALl7Aoy7oXcVqTjwe3DR9J-PaPiK_HOYlLeVmuC9rC4/w480-h640/Bodiced%20Petticoat%20-%20Corded%20Hem%20Detail.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Decorative flounce mounted on top of skirt, and revealing corded hem underneath.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUiEvwFNndO8xEjI84A8YGi4uzhJ7FpQFHQcQJrHxmRguJCU-Yt6tucLsg4JwGGYvz0e7Zq-T-V92mvJyR9mii0Mx5fkGKuUnxaHPrCCwkP8FLTJacaQTzkKf-nUOB6_H7fUwlhrdedmejj0M27YNQ70iryVH4pkf0d5KfC0iTyXrZOJtEpfZwbjEe/s3844/Bodiced%20Petticoat%20-%20Side%202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3844" data-original-width="2883" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUiEvwFNndO8xEjI84A8YGi4uzhJ7FpQFHQcQJrHxmRguJCU-Yt6tucLsg4JwGGYvz0e7Zq-T-V92mvJyR9mii0Mx5fkGKuUnxaHPrCCwkP8FLTJacaQTzkKf-nUOB6_H7fUwlhrdedmejj0M27YNQ70iryVH4pkf0d5KfC0iTyXrZOJtEpfZwbjEe/w480-h640/Bodiced%20Petticoat%20-%20Side%202.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWB-uNRGVIjrWn0SQj9TxV4B-cDnV6APkAeqDeuqaGcn4tO07-I-sEGAscbPoORx7j22-8vatTaHBYQltBfUsuJ_rfrT2sjahQoC4EnKAwM1dFs78galzs7lV-3Cx9qPYVbBZFM7tdt_SVZpd9HW0TN7_hdhmCy93ekzNvKhBZIkBAda0gYzJc7Luq/s3910/Bodiced%20Petticoat%20-%20Side%20Back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3910" data-original-width="2933" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWB-uNRGVIjrWn0SQj9TxV4B-cDnV6APkAeqDeuqaGcn4tO07-I-sEGAscbPoORx7j22-8vatTaHBYQltBfUsuJ_rfrT2sjahQoC4EnKAwM1dFs78galzs7lV-3Cx9qPYVbBZFM7tdt_SVZpd9HW0TN7_hdhmCy93ekzNvKhBZIkBAda0gYzJc7Luq/w480-h640/Bodiced%20Petticoat%20-%20Side%20Back.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxH9UTFwyclAMnJ8BbvQEx9iDX9_YDunXjzZgxICadaKkz7MNxQGCzhami0csTVrAE16eJAiivoYEjdhXcsXC4D5x9xOhO1g-Xes57dQbs15p_TmUDGZx18TOuGJ-7f7LpgKlLlFBBjrq607mUt4eqKEIpBL5ZJZofXY5A9NruMEO0kyIGm5gZD3IX/s4032/Bodiced%20Petticoat%20-%20Back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxH9UTFwyclAMnJ8BbvQEx9iDX9_YDunXjzZgxICadaKkz7MNxQGCzhami0csTVrAE16eJAiivoYEjdhXcsXC4D5x9xOhO1g-Xes57dQbs15p_TmUDGZx18TOuGJ-7f7LpgKlLlFBBjrq607mUt4eqKEIpBL5ZJZofXY5A9NruMEO0kyIGm5gZD3IX/w480-h640/Bodiced%20Petticoat%20-%20Back.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This petticoat is intended to be worn over a shift and long stays, and under a new c.1823 dress and accessories. More to come on my 1820s wardrobe project progress & "getting dressed" programs! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><i>Like what you see here and want to support the creation of future content and fashion history programming? Consider joining us over on Patreon with pledges starting at $2/month, and you'll also unlock exclusive content like bonus blog posts and more! Follow @youngsewphisticate on Facebook & Instagram for regular updates.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b>Thank you for reading & special thanks to our generous patrons!</b></div></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-29520237236536245692023-01-08T21:25:00.004-05:002023-01-08T21:25:29.237-05:00Year in Review: Goodbye 2022, Hello 2023!While I may not have initially sat down to write a blog post tonight, I'm really glad you & I are here to reflect on the crazy year that was 2022. There's so much that could be said...but I think I'll let this infographic capture the highlights: <i>(Clicking on the graphic should make the text larger!)</i><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3FFi7ONvh5UgO0NRDIZaZ5kGPJteN5ERbRkoSMwfBhLXl3nH-uZLYC8WjNUJcW26gudlxZjv48QcI6yChs1X7S2_PD5cbewLE8pfjFj_3UXW8SyEnPgIkH4SnYYQwF_HxKgrcsokJNCVZpKg_ndAPTBI_orFBYoezCMjCdvVMjAtpicixvYlLzCFs/s2500/Reflecting%20on%202022.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2500" data-original-width="800" height="2000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3FFi7ONvh5UgO0NRDIZaZ5kGPJteN5ERbRkoSMwfBhLXl3nH-uZLYC8WjNUJcW26gudlxZjv48QcI6yChs1X7S2_PD5cbewLE8pfjFj_3UXW8SyEnPgIkH4SnYYQwF_HxKgrcsokJNCVZpKg_ndAPTBI_orFBYoezCMjCdvVMjAtpicixvYlLzCFs/w689-h2155/Reflecting%20on%202022.png" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div>I love the idea of setting an overall intention or theme for the year, rather than a list of "New Years resolutions." In 2022, I kept repeating that I would "embrace change" - and I did, as I moved to a new apartment; weathered several losses of managers in my former department, which led to the craziest museum season, where those left had to pick up more positions; and focused on growing my interest and skills in DEAI (diversity, equity, accessibility, inclusion) practice - ultimately leading to my recent career shift. Though, for those wondering about the costumes - they aren't going away, even if I'm not wearing them on the regular through my job anymore! <div><br /></div><div>For 2023, two phrases have stood out to me - the first, being the intention to "establish balance" in my life; and the second came through a tarot card reading in the beginning hours of New Years, which predicted me "rejoining society." Whether you believe in the cards, fortune-telling, and fate - <i>or not</i> - this struck a chord within, so I'm running with it. Those of you closest with me, know that I've struggled with work-life balance for years; and anyone who works non-profit or for living history museums knows of the 60-80 hour work weeks we pull on the regular. So obviously, finding balance there will be central to living out my intention this year, but there are other areas to balance as well. Including my social life - which leads me to the second part, and my hopes in a return to society that will mean more time spent with family, friends, (<i>maybe dating again haha</i>), going to costuming events, pursing professional opportunities, and even just traveling for fun. I'll be interested to see where this year will take me, and what I'll have to say in review at this time, next year.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>I believe I've rambled enough for one night, so I'll leave you with this question: <i>what intentions or words will you be living by in 2023? </i></div><div><br /></div><div>Thanks for reading - and <b>cheers to 2023, <i>may we make every minute count! </i></b></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-41335235829915167652022-11-08T22:00:00.002-05:002022-11-08T22:03:57.372-05:00When in Doubt, Add Another Petticoat<p>It is a truth universally acknowledged, that a single petticoat must be accompanied by at least a second petticoat, <i>if not more</i>, to provide the proper support for a fashionable overskirt. When we last left off, I had completed an <a href="http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2022/07/a-pretty-petticoat-making-1880s.html">1880s flounced petticoat</a>, and decided that I needed a second, shorter petticoat to complete my Bustle Era undergarment set:</p><p style="text-align: center;"><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDRlmyqBuor_VmqSti9JYSTmQ8gM3ZJKHwA0KT-8CWU2znbYqy6y2QEsW-sQfJn2N9jEnFliFtYf4W26LgXCKH3bEo7DDw0TyfbzQ8XzeHl7anPHBI2ZoEddna_CasqgwpnvrfYDhFTekGfF5Hy1noYMSssvbonwuiuo280RnPPQ5jYfZBBZnQBZZo/s3941/Underpetticoat%20-%20Front.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3941" data-original-width="2956" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDRlmyqBuor_VmqSti9JYSTmQ8gM3ZJKHwA0KT-8CWU2znbYqy6y2QEsW-sQfJn2N9jEnFliFtYf4W26LgXCKH3bEo7DDw0TyfbzQ8XzeHl7anPHBI2ZoEddna_CasqgwpnvrfYDhFTekGfF5Hy1noYMSssvbonwuiuo280RnPPQ5jYfZBBZnQBZZo/w480-h640/Underpetticoat%20-%20Front.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed 1880s petticoat with decorative flounce, intended to be worn under a bustle.</td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /></b><p></p><p><b><u>Construction Details</u></b></p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My "underpetticoat" is constructed very similarly to the flounced petticoat of my last post, so I won't go into too much detail here. I based the pattern on <a href="https://trulyvictorian.info/index.php/product/tv261p-1885-four-gore-underskirt-paper-pattern/"><i>Truly Victorian's </i>1885 Four-Gore Underskirt, pattern TV261</a>, adjusting the hem lengths of the front and side-front panels. For the back, I did cut two narrower panels, which were seamed and flat-felled for a center-back opening. The rest of the panels were French seamed to encase any raw edges, and I finished the waist with bias tape. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After looking at a few original examples, I chose to add a drawstring across the back to gather the fullness. This allows for a more adjustable fit, and I can hide some of the bulk by wearing it slightly lower than my natural, corseted waist. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCHPOuVOdM7ZUAD6A6RrZk1FYaAhDgtae0sr2h6CIhJQ-OhjBwI5MTPM2vBTV5RKF_B0gW5efhcLdzQkW3iRm2hPswNrz1fZmqOkqijvQkLIq1J876_-5Ut3K0RL3VaayxWT08tyO4AeGKbfy5p_qfKw2fMSUTpPxvxJrWo9zioow4z1aXQc_wO8Rc/s3024/Underpetticoat%20-%20Waist%20Detail.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCHPOuVOdM7ZUAD6A6RrZk1FYaAhDgtae0sr2h6CIhJQ-OhjBwI5MTPM2vBTV5RKF_B0gW5efhcLdzQkW3iRm2hPswNrz1fZmqOkqijvQkLIq1J876_-5Ut3K0RL3VaayxWT08tyO4AeGKbfy5p_qfKw2fMSUTpPxvxJrWo9zioow4z1aXQc_wO8Rc/w400-h400/Underpetticoat%20-%20Waist%20Detail.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waist detail with bias tape finish and drawstring across the back. <br />The sides and front of the petticoat are shaped with darts to sit flat against the wearer.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Once the top was finished, I turned by attentions to the hem. I finished the petticoat with a 1" turned hem, and used the same <a href="http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2022/07/a-pretty-petticoat-making-1880s.html">cord gathering method</a> as before to mount a shorter, more proportional flounce. Lastly, I covered the raw edges with eyelet beading lace, and ran a blue satin ribbon through the eyelets.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Q2LyfzSH0x9izp1MqOmQaKgOxDeCRNXj3YgD2d_tn26f86l4FmOGWF4npknjvASo8c_hI_kUBvjsc-Yxma79nSWi3TkF6IIaco_2eZnZjLg3_O8afZdQjLubRs_6o_ivelHrGbnX_GV_9EOslIX5cqK9z3ssmoDwHKdWc1UcNA8sMihrwvZAW3-z/s3024/Underpetticoat%20-%20Flounce%20Detail.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Q2LyfzSH0x9izp1MqOmQaKgOxDeCRNXj3YgD2d_tn26f86l4FmOGWF4npknjvASo8c_hI_kUBvjsc-Yxma79nSWi3TkF6IIaco_2eZnZjLg3_O8afZdQjLubRs_6o_ivelHrGbnX_GV_9EOslIX5cqK9z3ssmoDwHKdWc1UcNA8sMihrwvZAW3-z/w400-h400/Underpetticoat%20-%20Flounce%20Detail.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flounce detail featuring a scalloped whitework hem, eyelet beading lace, and blue satin ribbon.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">While not the most impressive project, I am very happy to have a complete, matching set of 1880s undergarments, including this underpetticoat, lobster tail bustle, and flounced petticoat!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u><br /></u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u><br /></u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u>Completed Project Pictures</u></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihpOk6-a0AT80PdqAs6o4QiqpXQ_ih54PgRu9Wt53lYY7rXO3mOavKKlIbMUQ3W6044aIs945wkX9AKU2UvyE5Z4fy4-cbUxYlrwuwuNh8As_0njMqy1f8kQp_Y6KEZSv1e1XGzo889nyOi8ARTgCeihaTW6oosz42J2ZBQt2yAQ1Tq89wqRS6Dx1N/s3958/Underpetticoat%20-%20Side%201.2.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3958" data-original-width="2968" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihpOk6-a0AT80PdqAs6o4QiqpXQ_ih54PgRu9Wt53lYY7rXO3mOavKKlIbMUQ3W6044aIs945wkX9AKU2UvyE5Z4fy4-cbUxYlrwuwuNh8As_0njMqy1f8kQp_Y6KEZSv1e1XGzo889nyOi8ARTgCeihaTW6oosz42J2ZBQt2yAQ1Tq89wqRS6Dx1N/w480-h640/Underpetticoat%20-%20Side%201.2.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished 1880s "underpetticoat" with decorative flounce.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIKxxf_qdZ9-4_-gRNwLDmkrrgvO--1kfnoxbWSCHU-Qk4QMwgZkQR52DIGS78SF7r_eIJn6oe-O3mq0c3e40tlU9enAaOfarC-IAtTsgumLObIpb7IXIf2k6zvZtL2oBfr5Pr5vrELhkN0Y-hgdh6kuQ15tViuxCDofZiGzf1ED0eXw9yoaf3lzpT/s4007/Underpetticoat%20-%20Side%201.1.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4007" data-original-width="3005" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIKxxf_qdZ9-4_-gRNwLDmkrrgvO--1kfnoxbWSCHU-Qk4QMwgZkQR52DIGS78SF7r_eIJn6oe-O3mq0c3e40tlU9enAaOfarC-IAtTsgumLObIpb7IXIf2k6zvZtL2oBfr5Pr5vrELhkN0Y-hgdh6kuQ15tViuxCDofZiGzf1ED0eXw9yoaf3lzpT/w480-h640/Underpetticoat%20-%20Side%201.1.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side view of petticoat.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk5nH1ATTujzdCRMZ3x2nzvfLKG0ADy56jKot4pb2OYVuE5nKKkvhfn5nW_aFyOJMnry2xui6OqjcjxW4W-WZKkzu6opYwxZnLyQeal-ZOguiZSRf_4K-i9B8QGttaIfxlqYIw0KIlEydY6Rk0IAvf5qNY12LlGfUnmFhV3alT8JylWFoCVZBTOSrD/s4032/Underpetticoat%20-%20Side%202.1.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk5nH1ATTujzdCRMZ3x2nzvfLKG0ADy56jKot4pb2OYVuE5nKKkvhfn5nW_aFyOJMnry2xui6OqjcjxW4W-WZKkzu6opYwxZnLyQeal-ZOguiZSRf_4K-i9B8QGttaIfxlqYIw0KIlEydY6Rk0IAvf5qNY12LlGfUnmFhV3alT8JylWFoCVZBTOSrD/w480-h640/Underpetticoat%20-%20Side%202.1.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Other side view of petticoat.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidiiYsOd3O3dO1MIuzUH1HQKLdFDV3EQUgVwqzvxhhFNXp4GQTTOedaDUOXXMhyYmyXrPrR9KfkAImbBm-_D9KXW1Nrsfu0--6xtaqCjlcm6ZjQNmDFdzhvedKYbpvA7ydBdQco2I9euUqgJ_tEbtwtQfqMaMVJDkuX3hLG5QUgXFc9kLezhsHgRO9/s4032/Underpetticoat%20-%20Side%202.2.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidiiYsOd3O3dO1MIuzUH1HQKLdFDV3EQUgVwqzvxhhFNXp4GQTTOedaDUOXXMhyYmyXrPrR9KfkAImbBm-_D9KXW1Nrsfu0--6xtaqCjlcm6ZjQNmDFdzhvedKYbpvA7ydBdQco2I9euUqgJ_tEbtwtQfqMaMVJDkuX3hLG5QUgXFc9kLezhsHgRO9/w480-h640/Underpetticoat%20-%20Side%202.2.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side back view of petticoat.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcN-DU0R1QhKVBHFS6vCGIwoF9QHD6et15oBeGGTfJD725gzf-EMGsSzQTg3hStI_3tNlx9QSoT1hT48eFBUNxtd-PnYidl-qwocXSjuUK9ldPefnjBcuznoMGIdPDMfZiuHd_5BOKbk3gU11IEZ09fMmMsrrXdGjzkXt8vHoFzR3-UTIpIy4G7soZ/s4007/Underpetticoat%20-%20Back.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4007" data-original-width="3005" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcN-DU0R1QhKVBHFS6vCGIwoF9QHD6et15oBeGGTfJD725gzf-EMGsSzQTg3hStI_3tNlx9QSoT1hT48eFBUNxtd-PnYidl-qwocXSjuUK9ldPefnjBcuznoMGIdPDMfZiuHd_5BOKbk3gU11IEZ09fMmMsrrXdGjzkXt8vHoFzR3-UTIpIy4G7soZ/w480-h640/Underpetticoat%20-%20Back.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view of petticoat with drawstring and center back closure.<br />Notice the gently shaped hem, which is longer in the back than front.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />If you've been following on Facebook, you may know that I recently had the chance to sport my Bustle Era undergarments for the "Ladies of the '80s" gallery presentation. This included modeling each layer of an 1880s reproduction ensemble for the live "getting dressed" portion. Here's what the petticoats looked like in action:<div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHgwyMEt9qRu6MgWUbue0-5uL1iz4oSbl4Rf46sVPnZi1PG0eopgVNtEt3SdovO1OHMKS4TgPL8h6NDDM0UtnajRRLYY7ZPIOB3Xjgh2kIaTWbSi9QSw8hIzSsSITahRlVYLbM3g_ujh72tbULKEf9hkO7bdtccprdOD-MGKkGiVFcZ7J-KkQ50b_A/s4007/Ladies%20of%20the%2080s%20(3).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4007" data-original-width="3006" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHgwyMEt9qRu6MgWUbue0-5uL1iz4oSbl4Rf46sVPnZi1PG0eopgVNtEt3SdovO1OHMKS4TgPL8h6NDDM0UtnajRRLYY7ZPIOB3Xjgh2kIaTWbSi9QSw8hIzSsSITahRlVYLbM3g_ujh72tbULKEf9hkO7bdtccprdOD-MGKkGiVFcZ7J-KkQ50b_A/w480-h640/Ladies%20of%20the%2080s%20(3).JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Modeling the first petticoat.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj55JQ-W40mcxBxfkIg8nbdA_367cYsPRTUwmvk5nxHvK5D8I4dFxh81C5r6RvsGYSZK_5QB6q500fcfKHukAd6j3yTqtcJ-oXIiswxHs6TH0s4uI8NIIk9bm-F7MiD-cREu4G9HtdqQFkdlJ9dKCHfvGbO4xQpeE8Q6_up-qgX3kE1FoSlbpy3uiV_/s3958/Ladies%20of%20the%2080s%20(5).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3958" data-original-width="2968" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj55JQ-W40mcxBxfkIg8nbdA_367cYsPRTUwmvk5nxHvK5D8I4dFxh81C5r6RvsGYSZK_5QB6q500fcfKHukAd6j3yTqtcJ-oXIiswxHs6TH0s4uI8NIIk9bm-F7MiD-cREu4G9HtdqQFkdlJ9dKCHfvGbO4xQpeE8Q6_up-qgX3kE1FoSlbpy3uiV_/w480-h640/Ladies%20of%20the%2080s%20(5).JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adding a second petticoat over the bustle for maximum volume!</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Now onto making some dresses so I can live my best Victorian lady life...<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><div><div><div><i>Like what you see here and want to support the creation of future content and fashion history programming? Consider joining us over on Patreon, and you'll also unlock exclusive contents like bonus blog posts and more! Follow @youngsewphisticate on Facebook & Instagram.</i></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Thank you for reading & special thanks to our generous patrons!</b></div></div></div></div></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-45387139695084672512022-07-12T22:40:00.002-04:002022-07-12T22:43:05.297-04:00A Pretty Petticoat: Making an 1880s Flounced Petticoat<p style="text-align: center;"></p><div style="text-align: left;"><i>Is it just me</i> - or do you also enjoy making fancifully trimmed underclothing, even though they're rarely meant to be seen? Following the construction of my <a href="https://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2022/06/go-bustle-or-go-home-making-1880s.html">lobster tail bustle</a>, the next layer was naturally an 1880s petticoat, and to make it <i>pretty</i>, I had to add a flounce with whitework trim!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif2J7w_a5U9oD70IpWO_MpIG18qXsueITPiBihVC3nQ_VZa5V-is-CHLpFF7p7RSRCSfD9VL8hOn2CEXjUywDHJJaE3DRYcMjzVl_nGCblqdxPKfL6BkkcN7sOdP_smRdY1fjZl2-Sk6i99ABvUZ88okcqmHTWXldSCA-jOelU2sZpkQCkMaILtQSU/s1147/Petticoat%20Promo.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" data-original-height="918" data-original-width="1147" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif2J7w_a5U9oD70IpWO_MpIG18qXsueITPiBihVC3nQ_VZa5V-is-CHLpFF7p7RSRCSfD9VL8hOn2CEXjUywDHJJaE3DRYcMjzVl_nGCblqdxPKfL6BkkcN7sOdP_smRdY1fjZl2-Sk6i99ABvUZ88okcqmHTWXldSCA-jOelU2sZpkQCkMaILtQSU/w640-h512/Petticoat%20Promo.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making an 1880s Flounced Petticoat with Whitework Trim.<br />"Four Gore Skirt" from the <i>Delineator</i>, 1888 (left); and my reproduction petticoat (right).<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><b><u>Historical Inspiration</u></b></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Petticoats in the Bustle Era served to soften the lines created by shelf-like bustles and to support the overskirt. Though I had a good idea of what I wanted to create, I did look to a couple originals that showed a similarly trimmed flounce with both scalloped and beaded eyelet. This example from the <i>1860-1960, One Hundred Years of Fashion and Accessories</i> website, was particularly helpful:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivV-UcFZHaZUH6JJinO-hc2ndhHCY8ddDZmAxUIUhKZUgNWUKYQXK6SzRZZN_279avp_pukAl65lZFdh8SKlRwM-5whn6Sd-irAjP-1dBOTstW4rBIrXadVV7rIRRJLozGmtn9OWAL1dJ22QDLfCgGkUrsKAD8zQtIavbIqKR7L567-yf4xm6wEFz1/s724/Augusta%20Auctions%201880%20Petticoat.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="724" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivV-UcFZHaZUH6JJinO-hc2ndhHCY8ddDZmAxUIUhKZUgNWUKYQXK6SzRZZN_279avp_pukAl65lZFdh8SKlRwM-5whn6Sd-irAjP-1dBOTstW4rBIrXadVV7rIRRJLozGmtn9OWAL1dJ22QDLfCgGkUrsKAD8zQtIavbIqKR7L567-yf4xm6wEFz1/w400-h386/Augusta%20Auctions%201880%20Petticoat.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Victorian Petticoat, 1880s, (Item number xa8775)<br />Source: <i><a href="http://www.1860-1960.com/xa8775p0.html">1860-1960, One Hundred Years of Fashion and Accessories</a></i><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;">Though an advertisement for a skirt with reeds in the casing and not just ties, this plate from the <i>Delineator</i> magazine, 1888 issue, was also an inspiration. It was shared <a href="http://what-i-found.blogspot.com/2011/02/delineator-magazine-1888-ladies-four.html?m=1">here, at the <i>"what-i-found" </i>blog</a>, along with the accompanying magazine description:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8R4qWm3FqvrRhdoIs6Li89a5wAaqrJEA36z4eb3LSMFjGt0ro7qaQK2l6StAHY5CWy32YNSjcl8nXB1ZuRUq3RWmLNnkzUF_URLTzd1pxGsFekCo9fsXn2E1U_3hgCzfw7wPORNFrBgHFVIHduWHUYn09Ct6v6VU-Hiq16lkouDYjMCUj9iCZ76lQ/s918/Delineator%20Nov%201888.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="918" data-original-width="564" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8R4qWm3FqvrRhdoIs6Li89a5wAaqrJEA36z4eb3LSMFjGt0ro7qaQK2l6StAHY5CWy32YNSjcl8nXB1ZuRUq3RWmLNnkzUF_URLTzd1pxGsFekCo9fsXn2E1U_3hgCzfw7wPORNFrBgHFVIHduWHUYn09Ct6v6VU-Hiq16lkouDYjMCUj9iCZ76lQ/w246-h400/Delineator%20Nov%201888.jpg" width="246" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Delineator</i> magazine, 1888</td></tr></tbody></table><blockquote><div style="text-align: left;">"No. 2375. - This skirt is portrayed made of dress goods and plainly finished. Its three dart-fitted gores and full back-breadth are shaped to produce a graceful, even hanging; and across the back-breadth two reeds are adjusted in casings and tied into curves by tapes or elastics. A belt finishes the top of the skirt, and the placket opening is made at the left side-back seam. A small pad bustle is a feature of the skirt; it is shaped in two parts that are narrowest at the top and rounding at the bottom. A filling of moss or curled hair is used, and the parts are caught together in upholstery fashion. The top of the bustle is caught to the belt." - <i>Delineator</i>, 1888</div></blockquote><p> </p><p style="text-align: left;"><b><u>Construction Details</u></b></p><p style="text-align: left;">To make my petticoat, I used <i>Truly Victorian's</i> <a href="https://trulyvictorian.info/index.php/product/tv261p-1885-four-gore-underskirt-paper-pattern/">1885 Four-Gore Underskirt, pattern TV261</a>, for the base. After tracing the pattern pieces in my size onto pattern paper, I adjusted the hem lengths to suit my height, and subtracted an additional inch so it would be shorter than the skirt. I cut the pieces from a lightweight cotton sateen, as well as a 220" long rectangle for the flounce. The scalloped whitework trim is the same used for the detachable lobster tail bustle ruffles, and the petticoat flounce ended up being ~8.5" in height when finished.</p><p style="text-align: left;">I forgot to take pictures of it, but I added a twill tape casing to the back piece and inserted a drawstring, which can be adjusted to fit over various sized bustles. I seamed and pressed each of the darts, and then the side seams, pressing open and finishing each raw edge with zig-zag stitches. Then I pressed and machine-stitched a 1" hem, since it would be covered with the flounce anyways. </p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">To gather and attach such a long flounce, I used a method I had been wanting to try for some time - <i>cord gathering! </i>If you're unfamiliar or need a refresher on the technique, <i>The Dreamstress</i> wrote a wonderful tutorial, here: "<a href="https://thedreamstress.com/2016/01/tutorial-how-to-sew-gathers-ruffles-with-cord-gathering-aka-the-easiest-way-to-gather-ever/">How to sew gathers & ruffles with cord gathering (aka the easiest way to gather, ever)</a>" </p><p style="text-align: left;">After dividing the flounce into four equal parts, I zig-zag stitched blue button twist thread a half-inch below the unfinished top edge. Then, pinning quarters again, I pulled the button twist to draw the gathers, and added more pins so I wouldn't have to worry about shifting off the stitch line, or take the time to baste:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRiRBSv0cbYLiS8c3DC5bnyEVaCvfiBtKGI_o_eYk88E3mYBmUmur5-tiIPlBW3oDiXBqkhpMnoxoheSduC3kSoa4jUzctpN5VJSGybDE-UILpdmMLnN61kNsTAbrc3WH9NaRIWuAiXmY0Fjaf-RWisja8jF-FzHc6bY48y1qgDyzfvmS9puiqXgzf/s3010/1%20-%20Pinning%20Ruffle.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3010" data-original-width="3010" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRiRBSv0cbYLiS8c3DC5bnyEVaCvfiBtKGI_o_eYk88E3mYBmUmur5-tiIPlBW3oDiXBqkhpMnoxoheSduC3kSoa4jUzctpN5VJSGybDE-UILpdmMLnN61kNsTAbrc3WH9NaRIWuAiXmY0Fjaf-RWisja8jF-FzHc6bY48y1qgDyzfvmS9puiqXgzf/w400-h400/1%20-%20Pinning%20Ruffle.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drawing up the cord gathers and pinning generously!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Next, I took it to the machine and stitched slightly below the zig-zagged line:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6L--zjcUKaXlNQwjmZ3V7gBhoOLOLZvHKXbUa8TsJCB1n0fqoootKzUSjjBItcyod9tkUdSLZHpxOIdLFnBqqIU4f0lhI3qptwnu3yjMWKTT84WbooKiJpysTnA7NjZFb9cHyANHkcSoAx7HJl_Nolhceu5h9GBtCahNEpqxqVDUcPPEwDMsEZnIw/s2937/2%20-%20Sewing%20on%20Ruffle.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2937" data-original-width="2937" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6L--zjcUKaXlNQwjmZ3V7gBhoOLOLZvHKXbUa8TsJCB1n0fqoootKzUSjjBItcyod9tkUdSLZHpxOIdLFnBqqIU4f0lhI3qptwnu3yjMWKTT84WbooKiJpysTnA7NjZFb9cHyANHkcSoAx7HJl_Nolhceu5h9GBtCahNEpqxqVDUcPPEwDMsEZnIw/w400-h400/2%20-%20Sewing%20on%20Ruffle.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stitching on the flounce</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Because the cord I used was light blue, I did take a few minutes to unpick and remove it, even though it was going to be covered with more trim...</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxt4w5921QJ46P0k69EsrT0ofNYwn9leqRDPDJ_BgS5n4CfHmjV3TFIBZ0sMWA3BxZnKt26jBR1vT4Yt1_khj2DPmzE4gD0dA4rxQGVfPvGk5LJPwpVAsCoSGFBiuZm2VcUyR9rRjEFlJrkrDqM5CP0tHhF1Y6BPiQY4LoJ-IHhEhEliVV7ICO_9rV/s2976/3%20-%20Removing%20Gathering%20Thread.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2976" data-original-width="2976" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxt4w5921QJ46P0k69EsrT0ofNYwn9leqRDPDJ_BgS5n4CfHmjV3TFIBZ0sMWA3BxZnKt26jBR1vT4Yt1_khj2DPmzE4gD0dA4rxQGVfPvGk5LJPwpVAsCoSGFBiuZm2VcUyR9rRjEFlJrkrDqM5CP0tHhF1Y6BPiQY4LoJ-IHhEhEliVV7ICO_9rV/w400-h400/3%20-%20Removing%20Gathering%20Thread.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Removing the light blue cord/gathering thread</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpZgOZrLxbJPOD5GzF1pQ1Up7qB75xA3pbZRdZBc1p08FRiwx0zOrSKVwrppp8njiCNS67cjxQy2EyJ64jVxzNIUNEpky0kV8u8sGl0wjzz7-1SviXbrQQGLhnevdndmiR-W-pfmrr5W-wMqWPWxkhKwkrq8lZbvW2XZCOloYqczheZi0cRmKlVj9w/s2997/4%20-%20Ruffle%20Sewn%20On.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2997" data-original-width="2997" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpZgOZrLxbJPOD5GzF1pQ1Up7qB75xA3pbZRdZBc1p08FRiwx0zOrSKVwrppp8njiCNS67cjxQy2EyJ64jVxzNIUNEpky0kV8u8sGl0wjzz7-1SviXbrQQGLhnevdndmiR-W-pfmrr5W-wMqWPWxkhKwkrq8lZbvW2XZCOloYqczheZi0cRmKlVj9w/w400-h400/4%20-%20Ruffle%20Sewn%20On.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flounce attached!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><i>More is more</i> in the Victorian Era, so I went ahead and covered the raw edges with eyelet beading lace, which was carefully edge stitched on the top and bottom:</div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim8jY566ACh01BNi40Dcc4vkj2uYcFVIks-4GbbD99nNkl3Ec1-2Ufw9U7y4qKcOKxsVhWLTiLQA2BiE91nmJqRJriwaTI_yRSmBMmus3Rf2aTcaPVbMd526Yitx0n9SsoYmpEBgYfO5Cbt2CrlnXH7xRvJGzsDYDKKg-LquJI8dU3KDgkFTy_OqYz/s3011/5%20-%20Sewing%20on%20Eyelet.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3010" data-original-width="3011" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim8jY566ACh01BNi40Dcc4vkj2uYcFVIks-4GbbD99nNkl3Ec1-2Ufw9U7y4qKcOKxsVhWLTiLQA2BiE91nmJqRJriwaTI_yRSmBMmus3Rf2aTcaPVbMd526Yitx0n9SsoYmpEBgYfO5Cbt2CrlnXH7xRvJGzsDYDKKg-LquJI8dU3KDgkFTy_OqYz/w400-h400/5%20-%20Sewing%20on%20Eyelet.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adding eyelet beading lace, which also covers the raw edges of the flounce</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfYw2uXE77Mm6xmSh11-2sQO1voRpWTu6xXMwaJHPhWSg3TlLdEcansw0zTiFCavyDAXTVOMLZMR2SbuxqU8htC-cmaOWhDZ34YKdNjD6Ubq4yeL8sRbAgnba3wVzYiz3KfbQjg-EKHaqD0zqTgMsYRhzzNMOzmE_DikYEbxbOSVX1c3Kx_M-YwM9k/s2983/6%20-%20Eyelet%20Sewn%20On.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2983" data-original-width="2982" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfYw2uXE77Mm6xmSh11-2sQO1voRpWTu6xXMwaJHPhWSg3TlLdEcansw0zTiFCavyDAXTVOMLZMR2SbuxqU8htC-cmaOWhDZ34YKdNjD6Ubq4yeL8sRbAgnba3wVzYiz3KfbQjg-EKHaqD0zqTgMsYRhzzNMOzmE_DikYEbxbOSVX1c3Kx_M-YwM9k/w400-h400/6%20-%20Eyelet%20Sewn%20On.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eyelet beading lace attached!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">The last step was to draw a satin ribbon through the eyelet and tie a bow at the center front! </div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEw3bptw_g6Sfmr-K6VmMS1hL2wcqmV6ybUKFe2-rxhNm3NYRJK__JtLj6MJhzJA9qOYyeGIC4ooqcSnmX1HOm21DcOpDFGZnfuYnbJ2C7n2snp6ZWDFOt_43FWEhFEI5aQkPnJLBKowr5fNUA1qpdJ_qwZl2DbetuIZvnCovvjqlupxfaFKbGX_i_/s3870/7%20-%20Ribbon%20Threaded.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2903" data-original-width="3870" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEw3bptw_g6Sfmr-K6VmMS1hL2wcqmV6ybUKFe2-rxhNm3NYRJK__JtLj6MJhzJA9qOYyeGIC4ooqcSnmX1HOm21DcOpDFGZnfuYnbJ2C7n2snp6ZWDFOt_43FWEhFEI5aQkPnJLBKowr5fNUA1qpdJ_qwZl2DbetuIZvnCovvjqlupxfaFKbGX_i_/w400-h300/7%20-%20Ribbon%20Threaded.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A blue satin bow for the finishing touch</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">With the flounce attached and fully trimmed, all that was left was adding a waistband and a bone button and button-hole closure:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR5ESA1JY9TSzdVapFJzKjIIhqnW8jeLcbCQ1G0XvAw7_rawsICVG8duOILtP61atHvA2FFwRTDLTYrzox-S_d9GDs110yYaL5GWcYafyGXjRzR46RK-XtOhBQrGMSKuP5l6SF9VysiTO7Nbh4Uf8QN7D4ZQKRRSYID3T51aM53ruCs8IHE-Z2au7J/s3024/Petticoat%20Closure.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR5ESA1JY9TSzdVapFJzKjIIhqnW8jeLcbCQ1G0XvAw7_rawsICVG8duOILtP61atHvA2FFwRTDLTYrzox-S_d9GDs110yYaL5GWcYafyGXjRzR46RK-XtOhBQrGMSKuP5l6SF9VysiTO7Nbh4Uf8QN7D4ZQKRRSYID3T51aM53ruCs8IHE-Z2au7J/w400-h400/Petticoat%20Closure.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side closure with bone button and button-hole</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The front and sides of the finished petticoat are flat, with shaping provided by the darts and gored hemline, and the back features directional knife pleats. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><u>Completed Project Pictures</u></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Here's the finished petticoat worn over the lobster tail bustle: </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNGItDrTPGWxfqhF6frVtKFsrk9yGLJkv0VM4AGDxDuBqqc_EBZ91eNlBxQiUPl_3lMH2O7w66E8pT2jNClcf7UVGcqUEsJ_ZHhSZqkvmaQfiyGkuLuEk6PMTn6VS-XL_MTD7cF8YOA85z17oVWbaIMZOw_82kFVaxnnp-1I2JN6J8F3c-JRCx2CgF/s3983/Petticoat%20Front.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3983" data-original-width="2987" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNGItDrTPGWxfqhF6frVtKFsrk9yGLJkv0VM4AGDxDuBqqc_EBZ91eNlBxQiUPl_3lMH2O7w66E8pT2jNClcf7UVGcqUEsJ_ZHhSZqkvmaQfiyGkuLuEk6PMTn6VS-XL_MTD7cF8YOA85z17oVWbaIMZOw_82kFVaxnnp-1I2JN6J8F3c-JRCx2CgF/w480-h640/Petticoat%20Front.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9lN7g57DM_QCrGXG224y46NhnE8yatXWUjxql9K22zSGDXzxEvg1GiN9DJArHbKH82T9tgzrOl8uf3sj8bYY2grYYFl9u2UvnVt15D3JBglp-EWahO1-30-1h7Wj_gmlbUhek8Y1tK2Gedg2v8sm5fPzDx5I8xVhNT4TJBzqlfMdlODHlLvO-32Ny/s3944/Petticoat%20Left%20(2).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3944" data-original-width="2957" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9lN7g57DM_QCrGXG224y46NhnE8yatXWUjxql9K22zSGDXzxEvg1GiN9DJArHbKH82T9tgzrOl8uf3sj8bYY2grYYFl9u2UvnVt15D3JBglp-EWahO1-30-1h7Wj_gmlbUhek8Y1tK2Gedg2v8sm5fPzDx5I8xVhNT4TJBzqlfMdlODHlLvO-32Ny/w480-h640/Petticoat%20Left%20(2).JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgndGV0azKb_fOryGJSNZU8RgupZVvFo0fveSzyezByc01Z5WvoEX3sI_2nT0WX4hnLlyFaDXHYiiLEbYG1wnogXeXlzKJe20m4F4qXw9wSexCbcIn_41U1aAWyuY-t2Lct52kmG72ySRKmJl3p4RnFod3uDPYmSCQ4iKVwFqyDZpWRYveyTP7bDCvl/s3983/Petticoat%20Left%20(1).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3983" data-original-width="2987" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgndGV0azKb_fOryGJSNZU8RgupZVvFo0fveSzyezByc01Z5WvoEX3sI_2nT0WX4hnLlyFaDXHYiiLEbYG1wnogXeXlzKJe20m4F4qXw9wSexCbcIn_41U1aAWyuY-t2Lct52kmG72ySRKmJl3p4RnFod3uDPYmSCQ4iKVwFqyDZpWRYveyTP7bDCvl/w480-h640/Petticoat%20Left%20(1).JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qS0mNS10FJgxxUm4cmfpiFyuAPhQhOnRfxbpLiLS5fM_bVClk2iudm_DI_-4IpNGuADJUMEbEpm_gcz2_10rt7OYa_nzPEJu1ZsuHkRUXgiMZhioCldjRgokcEQiG6BrhYod0jixAi3HnNjvmA7UHg3AKOVJwbkpVhYrKUUVSzlV-BuXL0F98-C2/s3956/Petticoat%20Right%20(1).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3956" data-original-width="2967" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qS0mNS10FJgxxUm4cmfpiFyuAPhQhOnRfxbpLiLS5fM_bVClk2iudm_DI_-4IpNGuADJUMEbEpm_gcz2_10rt7OYa_nzPEJu1ZsuHkRUXgiMZhioCldjRgokcEQiG6BrhYod0jixAi3HnNjvmA7UHg3AKOVJwbkpVhYrKUUVSzlV-BuXL0F98-C2/w480-h640/Petticoat%20Right%20(1).JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmSw2PkR10EyO4ZXJy8kppFuFSjlLEYlHkdsT0QqXmqNbryCPTB2skIAJpV0ULEdfX_v1EP_8nRrEGlXCj9uQleyiqiusP7LXa7BDfePrKb5Qg_J8291m6f9rKz8chAyRc_XGIj8nOvWsT7YdK1poTGEHpXWGuD_4lXg8vth-6jRWLopKxMQEDYgme/s3881/Petticoat%20Right%20(2).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3881" data-original-width="2910" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmSw2PkR10EyO4ZXJy8kppFuFSjlLEYlHkdsT0QqXmqNbryCPTB2skIAJpV0ULEdfX_v1EP_8nRrEGlXCj9uQleyiqiusP7LXa7BDfePrKb5Qg_J8291m6f9rKz8chAyRc_XGIj8nOvWsT7YdK1poTGEHpXWGuD_4lXg8vth-6jRWLopKxMQEDYgme/w480-h640/Petticoat%20Right%20(2).JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJAftl9bLD993F--RzpxX36eo15Jf9kniF9sxL8DZJIqS9lJF_2Urag3Z02KpB-xWKoZYtTbe-fZHsu0pe3JGr-s7z70xavPZ7AabCiaN6fc3Pogu5a4DTouOSFJeUHD21DMgAZJPd37Y5I_6KXzGsxNVbr37KoyZd1bMGVyfLMzKfZGVQIHjAMOPw/s3975/Petticoat%20Back.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3975" data-original-width="2980" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJAftl9bLD993F--RzpxX36eo15Jf9kniF9sxL8DZJIqS9lJF_2Urag3Z02KpB-xWKoZYtTbe-fZHsu0pe3JGr-s7z70xavPZ7AabCiaN6fc3Pogu5a4DTouOSFJeUHD21DMgAZJPd37Y5I_6KXzGsxNVbr37KoyZd1bMGVyfLMzKfZGVQIHjAMOPw/w480-h640/Petticoat%20Back.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The petticoat's fullness is controlled at the back with directional knife pleats and ties in a bias-bound casing. This also allows the wearer to adjust the petticoat to fit a variety of bustle sizes.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ATJGT64YTZiA84ncVAU8YdknmIr_kuP5gP_lEYfSe3cYIvztFpr6A0-efLPe1ay-QpmLvsj_kjeAng1iQ5yCbe5CG89H-CVGX2ygI-t8EzwtELBNO6GiQM7o7y-HdZUnibOP_c9I5EtCFcOtAXPYs9aPhdRpBK1yqLPMVWH9Sq7tVzVf0dVWXSPJ/s3865/Petticoat%20Hem.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2899" data-original-width="3865" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ATJGT64YTZiA84ncVAU8YdknmIr_kuP5gP_lEYfSe3cYIvztFpr6A0-efLPe1ay-QpmLvsj_kjeAng1iQ5yCbe5CG89H-CVGX2ygI-t8EzwtELBNO6GiQM7o7y-HdZUnibOP_c9I5EtCFcOtAXPYs9aPhdRpBK1yqLPMVWH9Sq7tVzVf0dVWXSPJ/w640-h480/Petticoat%20Hem.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Decorative flounce mounted on top of skirt, and revealing hemmed petticoat underneath</td></tr></tbody></table><p><i>Do you like to make your 19th century underclothes pretty, or utilitarian?</i> <b>Next up in the Bustle Era series is either a second petticoat, or onto the skirt and draperies! </b></p><p><i><br /></i></p><p><i>Like what you see here and want to support the creation of future content and fashion history programming? Consider joining us over on Patreon, and you'll also unlock exclusive contents like bonus blog posts, live chats, and more! Follow @youngsewphisticate on Facebook & Instagram.</i></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>Thank you for reading & special thanks to our generous patrons!</b></p>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-40794551855161402412022-06-13T19:30:00.001-04:002022-06-13T19:34:30.910-04:00Go Bustle, or Go Home: Making an 1880s "Lobster Tail" Bustle<p>There comes a time in every historical costumer's life when they decide to leave comfort behind and dive into a new era's clothing...which means building the look from the undergarments, out. That's right - <i>it's BUSTLE time! </i> And to start, I made an 1880s "lobster tail" style bustle:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3UZpk6FtIl0XcDK8hb6vhTN8-hAvGro3QpVs24zD5Vm5bssDApd06wnXQ_6mLHEj4ETtAYvICqBw0B1MuYYbP48jlIEaAMNoFXIuy7YrVx-mpUOWpLJrV1qRVBEbARa37XmAqjsPIcr9d4XSwWILZQvx7IOZAGPvp5LEXCy4Y6opdQmBp5xP3JVss/s2000/Comparison%20Side.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3UZpk6FtIl0XcDK8hb6vhTN8-hAvGro3QpVs24zD5Vm5bssDApd06wnXQ_6mLHEj4ETtAYvICqBw0B1MuYYbP48jlIEaAMNoFXIuy7YrVx-mpUOWpLJrV1qRVBEbARa37XmAqjsPIcr9d4XSwWILZQvx7IOZAGPvp5LEXCy4Y6opdQmBp5xP3JVss/w640-h640/Comparison%20Side.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making an 1880s "Lobster Tail" Bustle. <br />MET Museum Original on the left, my reproduction on the right.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><b><u>Historical Inspiration</u></b></p><p>When the bustle came back in 1883 for what is referred to as the Late Bustle or Second Bustle Era (1883-1889), it was bigger and better than before. Fundamental to the fashionable silhouette, a structural undergarment, called a "bustle," was worn to create a shelf-like protrusion at the rear. While bustles were made in a variety of shapes and from various materials, one of the most iconic styles from the 1880s was the "lobster tail." Named for its resemblance to the coastal crustacean, these bustles featured cascading rigid hoops, often mounted to fabric and decorated with a flounce, for a shell-like appearance.</p><p>I was drawn to a particular example from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, specifically because of the double-tiered, detachable flounce. Its purpose was two-fold: to soften the line from the hoops, and to allow for easy removal for laundering.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIKjF4dxXRyg3DpJKBQfHmCJqbbtTBZ8a8UA6ECyrmJdKu0lINRvX22K_KziWDAAFy-plZh3K53qTynwIW6Lp4j5iO05UbrLHAcVjGxLG9ceYmgKiQ_pm6b5Hks1rg4vKPRWoD9j2lFTMGrXVsPPfhSPANTLHUtzkSl61mgNlI7EVz1Eor4KTWJIWb/s2046/Met%20Museum%20CI43.22a%E2%80%93c_B.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2046" data-original-width="1650" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIKjF4dxXRyg3DpJKBQfHmCJqbbtTBZ8a8UA6ECyrmJdKu0lINRvX22K_KziWDAAFy-plZh3K53qTynwIW6Lp4j5iO05UbrLHAcVjGxLG9ceYmgKiQ_pm6b5Hks1rg4vKPRWoD9j2lFTMGrXVsPPfhSPANTLHUtzkSl61mgNlI7EVz1Eor4KTWJIWb/w323-h400/Met%20Museum%20CI43.22a%E2%80%93c_B.jpg" width="323" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bustle, 1880s.<br /><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/108527">Metropolitan Museum of Art, (C.I.43.22a–c)</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpoYFbQcC7EcZPj7ekUlB2K_BQebv2G6QRgbTh9G39O7G-o-Agh9XyojQY-gi6dud21E4WRIPgYAIwMwsYbcF2GFpj7OTbFNMv9kCW8rtTUHAEuYRbj67_XNyGfIbzWhd0bGvJ--78fyOEcA8Iy-SMRcpXnh0EwO8q9vTDjGUvx_5G4jEov0rQk3h0/s1967/Met%20Museum%20CI43.22a%E2%80%93c_S.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1967" data-original-width="1750" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpoYFbQcC7EcZPj7ekUlB2K_BQebv2G6QRgbTh9G39O7G-o-Agh9XyojQY-gi6dud21E4WRIPgYAIwMwsYbcF2GFpj7OTbFNMv9kCW8rtTUHAEuYRbj67_XNyGfIbzWhd0bGvJ--78fyOEcA8Iy-SMRcpXnh0EwO8q9vTDjGUvx_5G4jEov0rQk3h0/w356-h400/Met%20Museum%20CI43.22a%E2%80%93c_S.jpg" width="356" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bustle, 1880s, side.<br /><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/108527" target="">Metropolitan Museum of Art, (C.I.43.22a–c)</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br />I did my best to source a similar whitework trim for the flounces on my reproduction, though I mounted them lower than the original, which was in line with what I saw on other extant examples.<br /><p><br /></p><p><b><u>Construction Details</u></b></p><p>To make my reproduction, I used <i>Truly Victorian's</i> <a href="https://trulyvictorian.info/index.php/product/tv163p-1887-imperial-tournure-paper-pattern/">Imperial Tournure, pattern TV163</a> for the base. Since I don't like to cut the original, multi-sized patterns, I traced the pieces in my size onto pattern paper, and cut them from a sturdy cotton twill. There was an option to order precut and tipped boning from the company a while back - and I totally recommend the shortcut, if it's still available. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVyMMZd6nwL9QMFrt3K5WhUiyqDqS1V2wTH6w9m1KEkcgIZrpeFi_9V1zig3rkThWss0yTd5SRaKAHWTopQgP2gHak_TLGMXvSeMCMq3Z1v8hDrUglunHhGViGApaObNZ6na5nr4B9MkjrtwJUDm_gztLLvEhIUQunTOaSXdR_H0BjwsXQS8BvsN1u/s3024/IMG_E4822.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVyMMZd6nwL9QMFrt3K5WhUiyqDqS1V2wTH6w9m1KEkcgIZrpeFi_9V1zig3rkThWss0yTd5SRaKAHWTopQgP2gHak_TLGMXvSeMCMq3Z1v8hDrUglunHhGViGApaObNZ6na5nr4B9MkjrtwJUDm_gztLLvEhIUQunTOaSXdR_H0BjwsXQS8BvsN1u/w400-h400/IMG_E4822.JPG" width="400" /></a></p>The instructions were clear and easy to follow, so I mostly followed them...here's a few pictures of the construction process: <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimnQxAEO5l0oyeL0CzVfrhLr3KtU_E1HCWWV3akOA9An3j9J0RKaK5g9byWRgI-K-UM5I2eH1k0pfq4HdWrNdrgOk2jENJEcZiFx_ny4cw4Lc1CCsAN-kAwQHeIJvy2jfRLfXC2jbvdrwaR_fBc1VgIsdNQPVBeUDgEwhvZNhqGOaK3CPHw7_CGa3a/s3024/IMG_E4836.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimnQxAEO5l0oyeL0CzVfrhLr3KtU_E1HCWWV3akOA9An3j9J0RKaK5g9byWRgI-K-UM5I2eH1k0pfq4HdWrNdrgOk2jENJEcZiFx_ny4cw4Lc1CCsAN-kAwQHeIJvy2jfRLfXC2jbvdrwaR_fBc1VgIsdNQPVBeUDgEwhvZNhqGOaK3CPHw7_CGa3a/s320/IMG_E4836.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I used a frixon (heat-erasable) pen to mark the boning channels</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVOEqvMJrR2md2JYyzxqX9pgW0JJxosdzMFxOxNOq3Mzj0aj0YHZzd5muLMPTJsDmXj5gBTvfY5Cn4mm3_X5OnTpCMSKNI1Kq0xzDQYOVKMIMDti8q_38_G-uUUlnopbf1TnCzMZIo9SIpcyXqp_aL_XL9tWmtXFR9hmH9uU0tcbgKIAY-5-9qJDnx/s3024/IMG_E4843.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVOEqvMJrR2md2JYyzxqX9pgW0JJxosdzMFxOxNOq3Mzj0aj0YHZzd5muLMPTJsDmXj5gBTvfY5Cn4mm3_X5OnTpCMSKNI1Kq0xzDQYOVKMIMDti8q_38_G-uUUlnopbf1TnCzMZIo9SIpcyXqp_aL_XL9tWmtXFR9hmH9uU0tcbgKIAY-5-9qJDnx/s320/IMG_E4843.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pining single-fold bias tape to create the channels</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrttZbAU6D1BZ_KTd6eIMUbok1-F4-95oOiZs0zfvb7T3CWcNA4fSxFF3GiChtuSEIVINNryJGbgoEpxZvHIX7sCZvotufgypnmPoa3tWnMA-Er_tBvXYIZxxvWmoU6DOA96IVRSq2ZtFYpKcuVxsrLtlPzCe_f92SRea-YUrE8MzD5MTzhcnUQl5b/s3780/IMG_E4853.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3780" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrttZbAU6D1BZ_KTd6eIMUbok1-F4-95oOiZs0zfvb7T3CWcNA4fSxFF3GiChtuSEIVINNryJGbgoEpxZvHIX7sCZvotufgypnmPoa3tWnMA-Er_tBvXYIZxxvWmoU6DOA96IVRSq2ZtFYpKcuVxsrLtlPzCe_f92SRea-YUrE8MzD5MTzhcnUQl5b/w320-h400/IMG_E4853.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boning channels all stitched!</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"></div><br />I did use the same bias tape to face the sides and inner pieces to finish the edges, which I thought looked nice. Rather than use the provided flounce from TV163, I encased the lower edge into the final boning channel. To finish the waistband, I added a vintage mother-of-pearl button and button hole. </div><div><br /></div><div>Here's what the finished bustle looks like without the detachable flounce:</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV-mrd123UrNUXoYqbXyq_A3SJn_dw8yrtS7XJ3T_TRoHYmauJxtOx6TVgMwXGNtJ_VRPiJhKxEBAbvsFNkHqkwnsXnMf6I5OVs9S9HDG15TPDnCXYcGbrcZDJ_N0lljKTtiicyK_C4Anb8bPEEzFUiozucmtshScblhNDZtjcsyA1o8f0KxjtPZkY/s3860/Bustle%202.JPG"><img border="0" data-original-height="3860" data-original-width="2895" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV-mrd123UrNUXoYqbXyq_A3SJn_dw8yrtS7XJ3T_TRoHYmauJxtOx6TVgMwXGNtJ_VRPiJhKxEBAbvsFNkHqkwnsXnMf6I5OVs9S9HDG15TPDnCXYcGbrcZDJ_N0lljKTtiicyK_C4Anb8bPEEzFUiozucmtshScblhNDZtjcsyA1o8f0KxjtPZkY/w300-h400/Bustle%202.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ-hu_KX7nwsp8mEaMFNeoiazZLNuHcb5w9Zf7QxTh5_tlPGEVUMRdcmCtUIUgk8TP5Sb-1t30A4VC1Ivnm3B1Sh3PBldHm6QMMbxWbDQExGdAJMO2xsw0AQJO5vYDuEFO-2WRZeBrdQahhPq1uTJViqoKHz9xdAEIDArhb_rjZHftURAvfYVMDnP9/s3719/Bustle%201.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3719" data-original-width="2789" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ-hu_KX7nwsp8mEaMFNeoiazZLNuHcb5w9Zf7QxTh5_tlPGEVUMRdcmCtUIUgk8TP5Sb-1t30A4VC1Ivnm3B1Sh3PBldHm6QMMbxWbDQExGdAJMO2xsw0AQJO5vYDuEFO-2WRZeBrdQahhPq1uTJViqoKHz9xdAEIDArhb_rjZHftURAvfYVMDnP9/w300-h400/Bustle%201.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcP3lHP2b4YJjykq0VlPleaxraMF_KxCSEtd9VsqSZlzmtO3Eoc6WUdBPOKDSg4Uc4D3RMA_bR9nxhtxcH_eTyv511mUBQsvFYd_IYEC7YpK1WMwlcgdtD_KfEGdjG-bYoDa9iw6Cqml-hrZ2o5cWD2LSuosRi22a82QInfVJ3shaIDEadK6vZDtWn/s4007/Bustle%204.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4007" data-original-width="3005" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcP3lHP2b4YJjykq0VlPleaxraMF_KxCSEtd9VsqSZlzmtO3Eoc6WUdBPOKDSg4Uc4D3RMA_bR9nxhtxcH_eTyv511mUBQsvFYd_IYEC7YpK1WMwlcgdtD_KfEGdjG-bYoDa9iw6Cqml-hrZ2o5cWD2LSuosRi22a82QInfVJ3shaIDEadK6vZDtWn/w300-h400/Bustle%204.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div><br />Next step was to create the double-layered flounce. For the ruffles, I ripped two, long rectangles from cotton sateen, added the whitework trim, and top-stitched through the layers to ensure the edges stay upward and out of sight. Then, I pleated and gathered each layer individually, and mounted them to a single band.</div><div><br /></div><div>Here's the finished, removable flounce:</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4zLmIFpyv_Mt6wK7kdJU6DYB6D5bnNRaubR3Bml98sY9Rg4zcD__C-0sb3jEeTOJf-XbKKH8KwcH0Clh_uY_L_WwnGpNBUQxQs0W5Q8jVgovXmPOnxD2RkHuTwuQXwtinY4ir3i2gRsBLQes4HLMxiYzumGYU0dcxFFhiRONrYlMafxeDDdCSfFH_/s3024/Detachable%20Ruffle%20(2).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3023" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4zLmIFpyv_Mt6wK7kdJU6DYB6D5bnNRaubR3Bml98sY9Rg4zcD__C-0sb3jEeTOJf-XbKKH8KwcH0Clh_uY_L_WwnGpNBUQxQs0W5Q8jVgovXmPOnxD2RkHuTwuQXwtinY4ir3i2gRsBLQes4HLMxiYzumGYU0dcxFFhiRONrYlMafxeDDdCSfFH_/w400-h400/Detachable%20Ruffle%20(2).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail shot!</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmFqj8MzmPbRDWDEoKX9YUNASdQ7d1GspGoF8QEgAdTVe49UanOpOHNIvLA0ylKN9WN_Q68g55uepViE-U6b2_iQOby7ya5oDjt-EN1t1ykpHa9Nnz7nbYvQ5KKcsJ8cKFAwbVWa3p14iOGbw0Xx1iUe9G_tfwFhbsjc8nRsKtYW-eFExVzEXjHmha/s2000/Detachable%20Ruffle%20-%20Front%20&%20Back.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmFqj8MzmPbRDWDEoKX9YUNASdQ7d1GspGoF8QEgAdTVe49UanOpOHNIvLA0ylKN9WN_Q68g55uepViE-U6b2_iQOby7ya5oDjt-EN1t1ykpHa9Nnz7nbYvQ5KKcsJ8cKFAwbVWa3p14iOGbw0Xx1iUe9G_tfwFhbsjc8nRsKtYW-eFExVzEXjHmha/w400-h400/Detachable%20Ruffle%20-%20Front%20&%20Back.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detachable flounce, front and back.<br />The longer ruffle was pleated, and the shorter ruffle was gathered onto a single band.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />The flounce buttons onto the bustle with 5 vintage, mother-of-pearl buttons and button holes to complete the "lobster tail" look! <div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b><u>Completed Project Pictures<br /></u></b><div><br /></div><div>Here's the side-by-side comparison - original 1880s bustle from the MET Museum on the left, my reproduction on the right:</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ZBZoNIxdJYokdhAAAducoMfN7XrKJQhd0O1oUDNuLZNbrOnQLunlDhdvDQC2oB5qP7j-b1iS43kLB0hmWBgq86xtX-uQ0uiQ_Mxw1c2j3ArVfRigLVAl18zoVzaAvtqnhSsQPR5vXckfzEMuP1OXh3t4Ef69ZFs_BvV-fbx4alLhTBYRLInPLBEa/s2000/Comparison%20Front.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ZBZoNIxdJYokdhAAAducoMfN7XrKJQhd0O1oUDNuLZNbrOnQLunlDhdvDQC2oB5qP7j-b1iS43kLB0hmWBgq86xtX-uQ0uiQ_Mxw1c2j3ArVfRigLVAl18zoVzaAvtqnhSsQPR5vXckfzEMuP1OXh3t4Ef69ZFs_BvV-fbx4alLhTBYRLInPLBEa/w400-h400/Comparison%20Front.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1880s Lobster Tail Bustle<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_6PxggUGz7Qlkl5dFvLQeHckZqqIDGqF22zy-D05BwQP569hsR3nzTXf_hLIbn9sc0h5uaeABnbuXBGT1GtdVdL-E-BvIHZZG-CDpTG5RV3zrilhHVTxFDzRLliIMjJ68PVEvVdldzKQgooyw1Gqv77qqtaadhl0g9bE5cdRdensPFLjoVUcwVGL/s3925/Lobster%20Bustle%20(1).JPG"><img border="0" data-original-height="3925" data-original-width="2944" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_6PxggUGz7Qlkl5dFvLQeHckZqqIDGqF22zy-D05BwQP569hsR3nzTXf_hLIbn9sc0h5uaeABnbuXBGT1GtdVdL-E-BvIHZZG-CDpTG5RV3zrilhHVTxFDzRLliIMjJ68PVEvVdldzKQgooyw1Gqv77qqtaadhl0g9bE5cdRdensPFLjoVUcwVGL/w300-h400/Lobster%20Bustle%20(1).JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuiUIFFlzjSglhHmD8u3TDwCU4iTbaW2UzZr4oy_6seEo-ft2M_M-R8Fzz5K2KbfamStdGd_B8f8L6lpBjMYh3XehhN42Ly9gp6c8HvlXuXlmK9O2aaRL9Xg3bjaql7FRDlqPjXZYQ3OL9MudPDZ7Psld3Uuk7qG0kU7YRH-bDxE2F89zZFHm5wgTk/s4032/Lobster%20Bustle%20(7).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuiUIFFlzjSglhHmD8u3TDwCU4iTbaW2UzZr4oy_6seEo-ft2M_M-R8Fzz5K2KbfamStdGd_B8f8L6lpBjMYh3XehhN42Ly9gp6c8HvlXuXlmK9O2aaRL9Xg3bjaql7FRDlqPjXZYQ3OL9MudPDZ7Psld3Uuk7qG0kU7YRH-bDxE2F89zZFHm5wgTk/w480-h640/Lobster%20Bustle%20(7).JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeexg_7D10vHlIBAfdlyj4E-QZlLf2sGdGmOwQzuQKAgdBhiDXN4s4O2IzkWY3ut7PVt09Lt5OIEUrhEzAWr_vsbPxx0NeARsbPjCdh5TiCk0-OpvfzaRCgM_FZ-fcChEXU15hRBkPc_j55Jau2QLDsXdQUV7_gxuzxXvYF1isT3RO_7THD_jSNqLZ/s3982/Lobster%20Bustle%20(4).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3982" data-original-width="2986" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeexg_7D10vHlIBAfdlyj4E-QZlLf2sGdGmOwQzuQKAgdBhiDXN4s4O2IzkWY3ut7PVt09Lt5OIEUrhEzAWr_vsbPxx0NeARsbPjCdh5TiCk0-OpvfzaRCgM_FZ-fcChEXU15hRBkPc_j55Jau2QLDsXdQUV7_gxuzxXvYF1isT3RO_7THD_jSNqLZ/w480-h640/Lobster%20Bustle%20(4).JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9AeAu6b8GPzmUt0-6e5qEh46fJ2WBdf8galz3GguI_xemtvvQIWg8o5yi5UO_EI00gIgRlo52nOuZwKKZxjwtxCnADhqPAo5B3ROPN-FZCx6SAfTI3XTCH69KllTX2m_ivLznaRKB1XfYyrddZY6evk66AA-Kgzzn6cwcUrLlqWpg33INMB-bk9cv/s3934/Lobster%20Bustle%20(5).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3934" data-original-width="2950" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9AeAu6b8GPzmUt0-6e5qEh46fJ2WBdf8galz3GguI_xemtvvQIWg8o5yi5UO_EI00gIgRlo52nOuZwKKZxjwtxCnADhqPAo5B3ROPN-FZCx6SAfTI3XTCH69KllTX2m_ivLznaRKB1XfYyrddZY6evk66AA-Kgzzn6cwcUrLlqWpg33INMB-bk9cv/w480-h640/Lobster%20Bustle%20(5).JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJf4EV6lpq3aV_XGtfMC4PTD50qZ_l590Ebon8J691a11lrJJSc8KxL1NlrK-p5ezbOqDRCTuI3-wD4uqgVEBh27nbtQ5wW_XXOkiusp4YjYVmcljAJW1G9_qpe-5nRrewnLh6_c7IUBb8ShRk12hcWw-N7Uk05jBFJ-P7Jy_Q9boAO1atNK715GsC/s4007/Lobster%20Bustle%20(6).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4007" data-original-width="3006" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJf4EV6lpq3aV_XGtfMC4PTD50qZ_l590Ebon8J691a11lrJJSc8KxL1NlrK-p5ezbOqDRCTuI3-wD4uqgVEBh27nbtQ5wW_XXOkiusp4YjYVmcljAJW1G9_qpe-5nRrewnLh6_c7IUBb8ShRk12hcWw-N7Uk05jBFJ-P7Jy_Q9boAO1atNK715GsC/w300-h400/Lobster%20Bustle%20(6).JPG" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih1ADXkwm9DGvsuJM5jqMuA4SCrTE_YCEud52rsC5u9iQdvNiuJ_351fou5ZfEHW7-9u6o1T8y3C6oLoxoHGiHOINjtp9TV-tGN6Rm7aiOy6gWrmSUPWcfTDeqUY1n-SYwbIAs75zFgMGo8XD4vXZ2_Oz5Aw6cIm6VO_4CrCdZS-wAj9Ohvwyhob-v/s3917/Lobster%20Bustle%20(2).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3917" data-original-width="2938" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih1ADXkwm9DGvsuJM5jqMuA4SCrTE_YCEud52rsC5u9iQdvNiuJ_351fou5ZfEHW7-9u6o1T8y3C6oLoxoHGiHOINjtp9TV-tGN6Rm7aiOy6gWrmSUPWcfTDeqUY1n-SYwbIAs75zFgMGo8XD4vXZ2_Oz5Aw6cIm6VO_4CrCdZS-wAj9Ohvwyhob-v/w480-h640/Lobster%20Bustle%20(2).JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5O01v5e7-mGSNuJK928e7WbxGiha8VCPWYpGjpUR6ue_rYzBniJ4ZwVPbtuVsx6S9THTFU3Gpm2MZ33ymVXyB6IMwao1B344PpyGIUCVZdJoh8PKBYFa_4tBaawG9frOnO1n0b-gjuqRvJpumc_dE8dZJjSnKYYoYuWiP3t-1NRMzTA2SfDBr5i2n/s4032/Lobster%20Bustle%20(3).JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5O01v5e7-mGSNuJK928e7WbxGiha8VCPWYpGjpUR6ue_rYzBniJ4ZwVPbtuVsx6S9THTFU3Gpm2MZ33ymVXyB6IMwao1B344PpyGIUCVZdJoh8PKBYFa_4tBaawG9frOnO1n0b-gjuqRvJpumc_dE8dZJjSnKYYoYuWiP3t-1NRMzTA2SfDBr5i2n/w640-h480/Lobster%20Bustle%20(3).JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Now onto the next layer...</b>a Bustle Era petticoat! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><i>Like what you see here and want to support the creation of future content and fashion history programming? Consider joining us over on Patreon, and you'll also unlock exclusive contents like bonus blog posts, live chats, and more! Follow @youngsewphisticate on Facebook & Instagram.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b>Thank you for reading & special thanks to our generous patrons!</b></div></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-51004610834377069232022-03-19T23:15:00.002-04:002022-03-19T23:16:24.712-04:00The Sweetest Event of the Year - Maple Sugar Festival!<p>March means maple sugaring season, and the return of the Genesee Country Village & Museum's <i>sweetest </i>event - the annual <a href="https://www.gcv.org/events/maple/" target="_blank">Maple Sugar Festival</a>! Celebrated over two weekends - this year: <b>March 19th & 20th</b>; and <b>March 26th & 27th</b> - there's fun for the whole family! From the ever-popular pancake breakfast (<i>tickets sold separately</i>); to sap collecting on the Maple History Trail; syrup making at the Sugarhouse; Haudenosaunee storytelling (<i>with ASL interpretation on select dates</i>); and historical trades & cooking demonstrations throughout the Historic Village - both new and favorite traditions abound. </p><p>In fact, my first memories of the event were from a stroller...<i>which gives you an idea of just how long I've been attending the festival! </i>Since 2014, however, I've been behind-the-scenes, pouring beverages and plating food as part of the historic dining team. Fast forward to this year, 2022, I'm now running the <b>Hosmer's Inn Luncheon</b>, and overseeing the <i>amazing </i>historic dining team (<i>seriously grateful for the entire team who make the history happen!). </i>Some of the members were working today, and are picture below as they take a break to enjoy their lunch: </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9hJtSyAivbl2guSjao8Ja_x5yph71Tu7rNlRP6E6XP-YMmDMQjubF75V4XifkMA8famr49XWXmCZc8mnNgWQtyNmidOU4sctt_ulJ9prENsHnhcW_eUWUUWIOEWY760_xhQ7ABRSsa2WvZFejgs635HAy1i3SA65z33ageP_JjOmgVMNzntmQaA5a/s3967/Food%20is%20Ready.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2975" data-original-width="3967" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9hJtSyAivbl2guSjao8Ja_x5yph71Tu7rNlRP6E6XP-YMmDMQjubF75V4XifkMA8famr49XWXmCZc8mnNgWQtyNmidOU4sctt_ulJ9prENsHnhcW_eUWUUWIOEWY760_xhQ7ABRSsa2WvZFejgs635HAy1i3SA65z33ageP_JjOmgVMNzntmQaA5a/w640-h480/Food%20is%20Ready.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Hosmer's Inn Luncheon at the Maple Sugar Festival</b><br /><i>Historic Dining team members sitting down to enjoy lunch themselves! </i></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Maple Sugar Fest also happens to be personally significant as it marks my 1-year workiversary in my current role as Manager of Community Lifeways, and 8 years<i> (9 museum seasons)</i> with GCV&M. (If you're interested in reading more about what I do, in addition to overseeing the Historic Dining programs, find all the details in this blogpost: <a href="http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2021/10/going-going-gone-recap-of-season-8.html" target="_blank">Going, Going, Gone: A Recap of Season #8!</a>)<div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Back to the <b>Hosmer's Inn Luncheon</b>...<i>have you ever wanted to dine in a historic inn?</i> During each day of the Maple Festival, we're serving a selection of savory, cold weather favorites from 11am-2pm, with dine-in and (limited) to-go options! </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1JWIVBBi3kipoiZ3ZapufmR43VedlfDnUTo8IYhrmZrmZERHsYOOC5c6c59zbz-StVLq1AV-qmU6wSJusxKtBU6UYa6PmP7_M36U68esXyruxW22Tph3MXfP5vXDuIgP7CKoreXIusPSnCn43yFFDzqcZqYs7f19JsqElEbSi6wvNNyXWtqkAgNdY/s3960/Murie.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3960" data-original-width="2970" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1JWIVBBi3kipoiZ3ZapufmR43VedlfDnUTo8IYhrmZrmZERHsYOOC5c6c59zbz-StVLq1AV-qmU6wSJusxKtBU6UYa6PmP7_M36U68esXyruxW22Tph3MXfP5vXDuIgP7CKoreXIusPSnCn43yFFDzqcZqYs7f19JsqElEbSi6wvNNyXWtqkAgNdY/w480-h640/Murie.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Murie carrying a tray into the front parlor.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>After you step into the cozy inn, which has been transformed to seat up to 45 guests at a time, our costumed servers are ready to take your order and serve up some lunch or midday beverages (<i>which would pair perfectly with any of the sweet treats available from the Confectionery across the Village Square</i>). Escape the cold (<i>and rain or snow</i>) and warm up by any of the four fireplaces we keep blazing - sit back, <i>relax,</i> and chat about your favorite activities so far!</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Here's a look at your <b>four dining room choices</b>; and yes, you are more than welcome to seat yourselves, or our servers will be happy to guide:</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiglmDW5vii6gMCJtaWl9Z5GemY4CMvbB8ZQ1UTmcB3A4hkcQd7RMwTPEhBbR48wb_hWhur7zHTIdVkbs67OMYWysLmXcsi86MjiZY-hezS6AkC2E4EmfAwE03zH-8neKKUndk579nRS5U0M15eFMGypsXjmSo9VJL_iHtsjfmO_WIoHRGP_7qICeix/s4032/Ladies%20Parlor.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiglmDW5vii6gMCJtaWl9Z5GemY4CMvbB8ZQ1UTmcB3A4hkcQd7RMwTPEhBbR48wb_hWhur7zHTIdVkbs67OMYWysLmXcsi86MjiZY-hezS6AkC2E4EmfAwE03zH-8neKKUndk579nRS5U0M15eFMGypsXjmSo9VJL_iHtsjfmO_WIoHRGP_7qICeix/w640-h480/Ladies%20Parlor.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front parlor</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZcXv2n-hbKOS8dyhP4AgX_7HBC_9ShGxAYNTxumWK8osiKKVPBLUGOOyywd83gIeyj6R0DRZQhW6OLXQOAclwcuCZ64XHcrPNYMQteBN7Kr7A26Doq7CeIon1FWZQ-CBq58NRgOWMhGrDvQluYuvCQAvvoVvs306P6o0ayqhFJm_QKWzoWYjjr6V9/s4032/Private%20Dining%20Room.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZcXv2n-hbKOS8dyhP4AgX_7HBC_9ShGxAYNTxumWK8osiKKVPBLUGOOyywd83gIeyj6R0DRZQhW6OLXQOAclwcuCZ64XHcrPNYMQteBN7Kr7A26Doq7CeIon1FWZQ-CBq58NRgOWMhGrDvQluYuvCQAvvoVvs306P6o0ayqhFJm_QKWzoWYjjr6V9/w640-h480/Private%20Dining%20Room.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Private dining room</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp0eu_Xp6TCRnPdK1ovIuZTIXKaqUkDSJxK5L3r_aEzoyoFQ0XoJKOGx0IBQQz16jFbiWBK6WNNoJudAxLJOSO4uh0XtdhKdFfyi-ahmVrwT184HQixgRQ7sFgkD1Q-kf8XTDGMxYnX8-1R7_RueWSdFYhBBp39R0k3W4SwpQlLRqL8LDqcQINd7Av/s3960/Public%20Dining%20Room.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2970" data-original-width="3960" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp0eu_Xp6TCRnPdK1ovIuZTIXKaqUkDSJxK5L3r_aEzoyoFQ0XoJKOGx0IBQQz16jFbiWBK6WNNoJudAxLJOSO4uh0XtdhKdFfyi-ahmVrwT184HQixgRQ7sFgkD1Q-kf8XTDGMxYnX8-1R7_RueWSdFYhBBp39R0k3W4SwpQlLRqL8LDqcQINd7Av/w640-h480/Public%20Dining%20Room.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Family dining room</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKFvKWpg1ryUM1wXwAy717MLyqwK9VeJjVMhrVHPfU8XKYHKnWu1Xa43caJ_VTEDVLfhHqz5gxM6Gs-M_BPLB9a-TGyhRFaJOVCu6AlvmvzCTqwxLVBbu3RPzSED-tk39vpUXxNxDh2qsnNLTI8v8_qp1Ivcu8zcGmENVslmEwrc5IKt5Iqpp2xbxM/s3941/Tap%20Room.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2955" data-original-width="3941" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKFvKWpg1ryUM1wXwAy717MLyqwK9VeJjVMhrVHPfU8XKYHKnWu1Xa43caJ_VTEDVLfhHqz5gxM6Gs-M_BPLB9a-TGyhRFaJOVCu6AlvmvzCTqwxLVBbu3RPzSED-tk39vpUXxNxDh2qsnNLTI8v8_qp1Ivcu8zcGmENVslmEwrc5IKt5Iqpp2xbxM/w640-h480/Tap%20Room.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tap room</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Which room is your favorite?</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">As for the <b>menu options:</b> enjoy a bowl of homemade chili with a generous slice of cornbread and butter, which is a new offering this year. Top a baked potato with sour cream, cheese, and maybe even chili, or keep it simple with salted butter. Hot beverage options include the historic American Heritage Chocolate, as well as modern hot chocolate, tea (regular and decaf), and coffee; ice cold bottled water is also available.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVQO248uL5nsNMPqgt2u9haOgUarG7DjNWxGUGpzFDG7Jckj23DWIajef5AIvOk0CxrWfCWZOxx2jI60OTUc2Zlrl-uah32PfcJZPoiFkH2f-AbPJYGx5ojWtp9wsV2ASF9kALrbEcWsohTL_aUfmnbz6TepUa02ru5fNPIwxQRxQLbGMI4w-WCVtl/s3921/Food%20is%20Ready%202.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3921" data-original-width="2941" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVQO248uL5nsNMPqgt2u9haOgUarG7DjNWxGUGpzFDG7Jckj23DWIajef5AIvOk0CxrWfCWZOxx2jI60OTUc2Zlrl-uah32PfcJZPoiFkH2f-AbPJYGx5ojWtp9wsV2ASF9kALrbEcWsohTL_aUfmnbz6TepUa02ru5fNPIwxQRxQLbGMI4w-WCVtl/w480-h640/Food%20is%20Ready%202.JPG" width="480" /></a><br /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luncheon menu offers a selection of savory, cold weather favorites like homemade chili, cornbread, baked potatoes, and warm beverages, including the historic American Heritage chocolate drink.<br /><i>Hosmer's Inn is open for dining each day of the festival, from 11am-2pm. </i></td><td class="tr-caption"><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYuB4PgPk2Mnv752Rpk4GppniUVvW3Qzv5OhLaXXz_dBWLFFVWtLx--9IMLe5uaLs5MPOBulRR5zNvUlHNQ2E5do2cX7-AfSVH14MOZI2k34ExTcdgVphCbLnD9ntOuyJ4ZntPEPvRwOc959LuPpiBjH-O4u5rKL9jl9zroOQNw1cWsfPxnF8oawa0/s3857/Baked%20Potato%20Break.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3857" data-original-width="2893" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYuB4PgPk2Mnv752Rpk4GppniUVvW3Qzv5OhLaXXz_dBWLFFVWtLx--9IMLe5uaLs5MPOBulRR5zNvUlHNQ2E5do2cX7-AfSVH14MOZI2k34ExTcdgVphCbLnD9ntOuyJ4ZntPEPvRwOc959LuPpiBjH-O4u5rKL9jl9zroOQNw1cWsfPxnF8oawa0/w480-h640/Baked%20Potato%20Break.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Backroom Baked Potato Break!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">And finally, the obligatory <b>OOTD (<i>Outfit of the Day</i>)</b> picture for Maple Sugar Festival, Day One! <i>Kelly & I both rocked our Maple browns!</i> I'm literally <i>SO obsessed </i>with her new dress (which she made just in time for the event) - whereas I threw together some work clothes from my closet this morning: </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaK9Fk_QU1HKPWkyRyHHPzgVPajmqYP3iEEQ0Etcut2i80a1RDGaqf52z17hg0PMY63BRZWkS6Owbi0wQltK9lYzoDx6SrgM3x82vvEUZcVaX9ieYKG6mabTHwdnoeyQ3BYBzAhOFTnTpofNifqCidwzpjae7L08qsXETJ7kLXMTdwUciwbx2MOHJK/s3925/Kelly%20&%20Me.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3925" data-original-width="2943" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaK9Fk_QU1HKPWkyRyHHPzgVPajmqYP3iEEQ0Etcut2i80a1RDGaqf52z17hg0PMY63BRZWkS6Owbi0wQltK9lYzoDx6SrgM3x82vvEUZcVaX9ieYKG6mabTHwdnoeyQ3BYBzAhOFTnTpofNifqCidwzpjae7L08qsXETJ7kLXMTdwUciwbx2MOHJK/w480-h640/Kelly%20&%20Me.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The obligatory OOTD (Outfit of the Day) picture for Maple Sugar Festival, Day One!<br /><i>Kelly & I both rocked our Maple browns!</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br />There are three more dates to catch the event, so don't miss your chance to dine with us at Hosmer's Inn by <b>purchasing your tickets</b> at: <a href="https://www.gcv.org/events/maple/" target="_blank">Maple Sugar Festival & Pancake Breakfast</a>. <i>Hope to serve you then! </i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVrEU23cHYkprD_URljXkMfrHPC6uaW-WER2VuOrFKP1QWDJ0E_p0Ya8zrGhip7BuvFwi9DYbBBUfb44Exrpm91xE_BqvBmp4lPOIxV_K_XOYlvsAiVdsDuGFf9vLo2atCH9OUyApDp9moaQQ0Z39PGZ0jzHt1OOLeRRFGDxb9y_M5lVUnvoavk5z-/s4032/All%20in%20a%20Day's%20Work.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVrEU23cHYkprD_URljXkMfrHPC6uaW-WER2VuOrFKP1QWDJ0E_p0Ya8zrGhip7BuvFwi9DYbBBUfb44Exrpm91xE_BqvBmp4lPOIxV_K_XOYlvsAiVdsDuGFf9vLo2atCH9OUyApDp9moaQQ0Z39PGZ0jzHt1OOLeRRFGDxb9y_M5lVUnvoavk5z-/w480-h640/All%20in%20a%20Day's%20Work.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That's a wrap for Day One of the Maple Sugar Festival!<br /><i>See you out there tomorrow and next weekend!</i></td></tr></tbody></table></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-23606839511456029602021-10-26T12:00:00.002-04:002021-10-26T12:00:00.226-04:00Going, Going, Gone: A Recap of Season #8!<p>My Grandma used to say that there were only two days in the year: Christmas and 4th of July. I laughed then, as I knew that it was supposed to be a joke, but now I understand that she was only half-kidding. The 2021 museum season flew by; and though it seems like only yesterday that it was opening day, we closed two weekends ago. An entire summer and another season, number 8 for me,<i> gone</i>, in the blink of an eye and the turn of a calendar page. </p><p>Back in March when I began my blogging (and social media) hiatus, we were right on the cusp of the brand new season. I had just accepted the position of Manager of Community Lifeways, and hit the ground running. From May to the beginning of October, it felt like a marathon with special events and after-hours programs just about every weekend, as well as field trips and tour groups to round out daily interpretation. With general admission closed down for the remainder of the year, we can finally catch our breath - so it seems fitting to take a little time to reflect upon all of the excitement and to recap the whirlwind of the 2021 museum season! </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCnXmWG5Fr4SezAbra5pl4j7P2558SMcNTp8dgHxXWgHl3pVomEKc2AiPFu9EGo4vGsjdRTCdUFzpuzo3bQ9EMcBgJZtIatJcmht9Xr-Z-fhd4Xqe9MowxXgdhWCGRGR14kYJWibg58rc/s2048/Weaving+at+Humphrey+%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCnXmWG5Fr4SezAbra5pl4j7P2558SMcNTp8dgHxXWgHl3pVomEKc2AiPFu9EGo4vGsjdRTCdUFzpuzo3bQ9EMcBgJZtIatJcmht9Xr-Z-fhd4Xqe9MowxXgdhWCGRGR14kYJWibg58rc/w640-h480/Weaving+at+Humphrey+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weaving on the counterbalance barn loom at the Humphrey House</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>For those unfamiliar with the <a href="https://www.gcv.org/">Genesee Country Village & Museum</a>, it's the largest living history museum in New York State - and the third largest in the country - featuring a working, 19th century village with 68 historic structures, costumed interpreters, live trade and domestic demonstrations, heirloom gardens, heritage breed livestock, and so much more. I've had the pleasure and privilege of calling the village my own for seven years now, with this being the first season in a managerial position.<p style="text-align: left;">I was hired as a historical interpreter in 2014, and have since worn a couple of hats, including a costuming intern (2014-15) and the Interpretation Office Assistant (2016-2019). It was an honor to be asked to return in a new role, as the Manager of Community Lifeways, for the 2021 museum season, which is number 8 for me. In this position, I am responsible for overseeing and developing interpretive programming; creating themed and select after-hours events; managing the shared team of historical interpreters and volunteers across the village; and other collaborative efforts across the interpretation department. I am also actively advocating for sitewide diversity, equity, accessibility, and inclusion advancements, and have already drafted and presented several documents to the CEO, Senior Director of Interpretation, and DEAI committee members for consideration and implementation.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR7s-Z2PWTtaUYTkz5rXvA1dorQBTk2yS4VjfMJOPIvcV9GPbWcS9xt5vWq-G8hxThOIuHxAOLBVWe00oe79VHioJ7LjYSZLJl4tatVPdw4NK3AeUU7FMMzLThcz3xnpu89h2Il82Tjrw/s2048/Jones+Coverlet+Reproduction+2021.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1537" data-original-width="2048" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR7s-Z2PWTtaUYTkz5rXvA1dorQBTk2yS4VjfMJOPIvcV9GPbWcS9xt5vWq-G8hxThOIuHxAOLBVWe00oe79VHioJ7LjYSZLJl4tatVPdw4NK3AeUU7FMMzLThcz3xnpu89h2Il82Tjrw/w640-h480/Jones+Coverlet+Reproduction+2021.JPG" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2021 Weaving Project at the Humphrey House:<br /><i>A reproduction "dog track" overshot coverlet for the Jones Farmhouse</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div>I like to divide the buildings and programs I manage into four categories: <p style="text-align: left;">1) <b>Historical Houses,</b> featuring stories and activities centered around daily, 19th-century life and experience: these include the <b>Humphrey House</b> (<i>1790s-1830s, weaving demonstrations)</i>; <b>Foster-Tufts House</b> <i>(1830s, with three, rotating themes on birth, marriage & death)</i>; <b>MacKay House</b> (1830s); <b>Hyde House </b>(1870s); and <b>Hamilton House </b>(1870s)</p><p style="text-align: left;">2)<b> Business</b>, which were instrumental to any settlement and growing town: the <b>Altay General Store</b> (1850s); <b>Hosmer's Inn</b> (1830s); <b>Dressmaker Shop </b>(1820s-30s); and <b>Tailor Shop</b> (1850s)</p><p>3) <b>Textile Arts Programs</b>: this includes the spinning, weaving <i>(see the 2021 weaving project, above)</i>, dressmaking, and tailoring programs. </p><p>4) <b>Historic Dining Programs</b>: this includes the popular, historical dinner programs (<i>MacKay and Hosmer Dinners - unique dinning experiences that serve 3 or 4 course fares, respectively, from period receipts (called recipes, today), complete with first-person entertainment and a private tour of the village by lantern-light)</i>; as well as other period luncheon, tea, and dessert programs. </p><p>My position also oversees select children's games & entertainment programs; staffing select education programs; and some office administrative work. I also tried to staff buildings in the village 1-2 days a week to keep my interpretation skills in current practice, and enjoyed regularly demonstrating both weaving and flax processing regularly throughout the summer. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBUK9u68BCEX39fQDgLRKS2N9N7EU9JB1loi9oCKDGCoTiTD51GxqrAi-x8WbIRAuGcTIQYynk340QRGYcLGInVdQ64AqVeZu4gaJPz4ykxUZy4vhvSMKOK_V0929pMo2LECYX0DS_qXI/s2048/Processing+Flax.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2047" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBUK9u68BCEX39fQDgLRKS2N9N7EU9JB1loi9oCKDGCoTiTD51GxqrAi-x8WbIRAuGcTIQYynk340QRGYcLGInVdQ64AqVeZu4gaJPz4ykxUZy4vhvSMKOK_V0929pMo2LECYX0DS_qXI/w640-h640/Processing+Flax.JPG" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the summer months, I gave a timed talk called "From Plants to Pants" <br />and regularly demonstrated flax processing for visitors<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>And now, for the highlights of the season...get ready for lots of pictures! <i>Please note that not every event will be represented, just some favorite memories (of which I happen to have pictures)! </i></div><div><i><br /></i><h3 style="text-align: center;"><b>2021 Museum Season</b></h3><p style="text-align: left;">My first weekend back was actually in <b><u>March</u></b>, which deserves an honorary mention in the season recap! It was during the second week of the annual Maple Sugar Festival, and I spent the day demonstrating tallow (beef fat) candle making: </p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJDgxtxLacrSjnv9pvCOhHBmKZMM0gYs6FCLPTE7gtfhS2TOvhyuzuN6pMr_uUbLiHotNp_PdUiQvywb-O28UDSXVsUfC_eNjECHkSzVNxmiBtEl7RlTe3MRW5GlEqWDvSisxoPNB4e_E/s2048/Tallow+Candle+Making+%25281%2529.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJDgxtxLacrSjnv9pvCOhHBmKZMM0gYs6FCLPTE7gtfhS2TOvhyuzuN6pMr_uUbLiHotNp_PdUiQvywb-O28UDSXVsUfC_eNjECHkSzVNxmiBtEl7RlTe3MRW5GlEqWDvSisxoPNB4e_E/w480-h640/Tallow+Candle+Making+%25281%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAgM6RIpFRVDhm1ql5PqXk3m1i43Lcyr-nalXwWasVOr_zbyb8Pj4o2BDv4wgtY-tsIOr4wA8KN2otOA2igLvQ8dzU4NelCVM2xVJ_9JFHDt8SUMpB12dVXQ5sO7VazcANYXic6QKNkf4/s2048/Tallow+Candle+Making+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2047" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAgM6RIpFRVDhm1ql5PqXk3m1i43Lcyr-nalXwWasVOr_zbyb8Pj4o2BDv4wgtY-tsIOr4wA8KN2otOA2igLvQ8dzU4NelCVM2xVJ_9JFHDt8SUMpB12dVXQ5sO7VazcANYXic6QKNkf4/w400-h400/Tallow+Candle+Making+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tallow candles in various stages of completion</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b><u>May</u></b> - The museum opened for its 45th season on Mother's Day weekend! </div><div><br /></div>Shortly after opening, the Spring Dinners, hosted at Hosmer's Inn for social distancing purposes, began with six dinners over three weekends. In the past, I've played both hostess and tour guide, but this was a first managing the historical dining program. The MacKay Dinners offer a charming, Georgian-style dinning experience with dishes prepared from early-19th century receipts (<i>called recipes today</i>) and the chance for first-person interactions with members of the MacKay family.<div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/blog/post/edit/8826523163416967557/2360683951145602960#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: start;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghx8vi3wGyIZY1x3gpOGbRXrlBUVFYIi-0LwSg0Ia-wNyUpCOg7khiiX-HD_-ERYsNUAtOPSq7heDYg2bGoLvsZHc1ZNRRzNerXWFb4k2NWOJ9rb3gvj1VgXpwt2AnBcyFO10Ho_7Bc7I/w479-h640/Spring+Hosmer+Dinners+%25283%2529.JPG" width="479" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spring Dinners at Hosmer's Inn</td></tr></tbody></table><br />This Spring's Bill of Fare was specifically selected to reflect the MacKay's personal reminiscences of settling the early Genesee Country, as well as their family's proud Scottish heritage. Traditional Scottish dishes, like freshly-baked barley rolls and potatoe rock, two ways (<i>sweet and savory</i>), were served alongside dressed asparagus, spring fruit (<i>rhubarb</i>) soup, and a variety of seasonal pickles and preserves. <br /><br />For the main course, stewed trout, stuffed, in a white wine-butter sauce, was appropriately plated, as John MacKay himself reminisced on how "abundant" and "comparatively tame" the trout were when he first settled in Caledonia in 1803. According to John MacKay: "When we wanted [trout], we used frequently to catch them with our hands as they lay under the roots of the cedar trees that grew along the banks. There would be occasionally one weighing as high as three pounds." (<i>Pioneer History of the Holland Purchase</i> by Orsamus Turner): <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/blog/post/edit/8826523163416967557/2360683951145602960#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: start;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZbuIdUoerbwCTEiMfG8hlbZFpbuE8wocf8AFXZIOHRlo5f8itNeufhlKjKYnvInmDNs1fsRrfouBdThDmuHuXHu1SvSzRCk-mb7X-5YqQdAXjGjfCvoa6qVQx9TDO4tuhhoThFkNaKLU/w640-h480/Spring+Hosmer+Dinners+%25285%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stewed trout, stuffed, in a white wine-butter sauce</td></tr></tbody></table><br />As for the dessert course, almond maids of honor (tarts) decorated with candied lilacs were arranged at the center of the tables on towering glass cake stands. Footed glass dishes were filled with crystallized ginger, candied orange peel, walnuts, and comfits; and hot coffee and tea were poured into delicate china teacups for the guests returning from their private tour of the village:</div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: start;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7x-nwjjJiE6QsyXlg-6DoYWL1VpLvxQTFbSqGixleOMcrRz02UORp67rDWL4u-UDFPYVWSSqT4KT8DUkzKu6eRGDym6TP-y0nhCQS4jgBTrxO311qHhKKjYp5my3IiG_QzsEX_AjOAd8/w512-h640/Spring+Hosmer+Dinners+%25284%2529.JPG" width="512" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Candlelight dessert course: almond maids of honor, crystalized ginger, candied orange peel, walnuts, and comfits</td></tr></tbody></table><br /> We really have a wonderful historical dinner team, and I'm thrilled to get to work with each and everyone of them! Especially Ariana, my museum-twin, who could run these dinners with her eyes closed - here she is busy lighting tapers with both hands:</div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8j4Y_DqGgY-iN-j_8f3FuNHzxHIGYH11Nj2guxuPfgvdMlOP7U-kVSFIqqjspaCJFbMsCRuChViKo1z1ct_9R-0tEe4LJ9WZ0877gL-rLUK514uYeZ4aMsiJGRPn__W6ZBBl_bPUDNkY/w480-h640/Spring+Hosmer+Dinners+%25282%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lighting fresh tapers for the dessert course</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"> </div> As for what I wore to work the dinners, it was usually some variation of this outfit - though I did occasionally switch up the kerchief, cap, or apron, just for some variety: </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik12b0MtYiHLiKRRh1TL13dt1-owuU2bZL3VSDNpy60JDoYSg-FTQoVGvI_xVIqFiDZRnIjK1QL0USF7DieHImGhhDpaU_95XMu3lAsgWHsnCix44KF6OIeVYPUlYSUMLQ0OhBN9_fGBE/s2048/Spring+Hosmer+Dinners+%25286%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik12b0MtYiHLiKRRh1TL13dt1-owuU2bZL3VSDNpy60JDoYSg-FTQoVGvI_xVIqFiDZRnIjK1QL0USF7DieHImGhhDpaU_95XMu3lAsgWHsnCix44KF6OIeVYPUlYSUMLQ0OhBN9_fGBE/w480-h640/Spring+Hosmer+Dinners+%25286%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working wear for Hosmer Dinners!</td></tr></tbody></table><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b><u>June</u> </b>- During the next month, we introduced our first Honoring Juneteenth event! Cheyney McKnight of <a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#">Not Your Momma's History</a> was onsite for the week hosting both sitewide and small group trainings. On Juneteenth and during our event, Cheyney, Noah, Andy, and Sharon presented a moving living history scene, which included a reading of General Order No. 3; capturing the first moments of hesitation and confusion; and then a joyous reaction to the news of freedom: </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: start;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwKH-RD84XzS-gQ_hDKw8y_6lIT9cxsvVzq4N3mYY_jEO7YMyuMEA4xiM4PuQAKSh5LMmKnyrs28bH7O9RkAbEcchptRXoBxtB6Ql2Q-4XUQKyWoeJP7RkjBNWJQQ1ZA_nMfc5AElqUvs/w640-h480/Juneteenth+%25281%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Juneteenth living history scene featuring: (<i>from left to right</i>) Sharon, Andy, Cheyney, and Noah.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: start;"><img border="0" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr9_G1pPs6cskSHD0zM2IYDq6CcEx1lFMb0MuXCPpOQt3gV6g3EzZk9OiGuOwzcE1KL-JNioEev1zK8zAFAo3r49i_rZsGpNqJBUp7oqBrZ-tNtumirVSsTwqTIo5IQSNhmbZ5wPujNOc/w640-h640/Juneteenth+%25282%2529.JPG" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A toast to freedom!</td></tr></tbody></table><br />It was such a pleasure to spend time some time with Cheyney again - and to call her friend, champion, and interpreter advocate means the world to me:</div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: start;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTjPnT83xtB7_C84KeoTYIwNQA8LtRMVXUKxh9WrNCLaHgzF-I4ySlmbhLhRvGnlRaN84KKNek8rfCP_Ne2oit-pTy2OvB8twYGM5yQGxxulFM-_JRWRiKshfXUxg9nr5Tb3NFtI-UWGk/w480-h640/Cheyney+%2526+Me+at+Juneteenth.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cheyney & me (in a museum uniform since I was staffing behind-the-scenes)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div>Later in the month of June, the weaving began on the 2021 project at the Humphrey House! This season, we reproduced an overshot coverlet <i>(the original is held in collections) </i>to replace the faded one (<i>which was woven by the weavers in 1970</i>) at the Jones Farmhouse. (<i>So it's essentially a reproduction of a reproduction, if you will!</i>) Anyways, the coverlet features attractive, wide borders with a repeating "dog tracks" pattern across the body. </div><div><br /></div><div>Holding a shuttle in hand and treadles under my feet again just felt right! </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVQlFU0Oza_g3f8BtRiNZgoTTse4P2U7y5rS7V-UcfRjqVDwOSwZQpC1ohYKyf5qvP8Tdi9hcFTZsEfzxDSlOO6mStYGbjZnA5QWarITtsjxLwYB40UFQlXewwwTDFZNUhbtovlZuWy_U/w512-h640/Weaving+at+Humphrey+%25281%2529.JPG" width="512" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Once a weaver, always a weaver!</i></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#"><img border="0" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWrf548S51mtNRmGWguXZRneJJhT-kN-JPPJL0dMS62JSqjP4C0KnAGoio1XqaT3lZPkyZVgUoYkSOhyphenhyphenqMOrI-OvUqc4eSyXZR152G8TlG1GiA7V50H12jscNkDullVBGe0QofRl-_B3I/w640-h640/Weaving+at+Humphrey+%25283%2529.JPG" width="500" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><b><u>July</u></b> - <i>cue the fireworks!</i> For our 4th of July and Independence Day celebration, I made a patriotic apron and marched in the village parade: </div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: start;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKQwX8PRyvdMS3bB42x5_9DvBgS6wx1YeHFjL8N3sXWVp3YQPE9D4_TUgwJ0uCiUlhP_b75EzR-hlUlz_9TA901jg2V6N3b6Hdi78gd6Y_bh96B_nvXnC7qS3LW9Bvn2pmTv9bw6WzCCs/w480-h640/4th+of+July+%25282%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marching in the Independence Day parade around the village square!<br />Photograph by Ruby Foote, museum photographer. <br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiAsYdSTS6R8KMGpcH-4VHmANMDQzUe5nZWID-oAKeuTOphq03p7DfPAdnz_2bPuubSMaXF3sDQRWLUmZRp-ZHBg0ozypqLZ0ws6PXyQ-Gtsaeo8G60ThphmycYgiQgZrmKR1isxZJy3I/w480-h640/4th+of+July+%25281%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I finally got to wear my candy-pink striped, sheer summer dress <br />complete with a new, patriotic apron and silk parasol!</td></tr></tbody></table><br />The following week was Virtual History Camp at <a href="https://mariettacastle.org/">The Castle</a>, a historic house museum in Marietta, Ohio! I had the privilege of presenting a session called: "That Chinese Girl": How Mamie Tape Won the Right to Go to School</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: start;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqbwTmD14_L4vARyyH1CwOTR5dqGkt2tsQj_uOeOwn2AsBIdDSQmTyuRM2gNvAYZsSXpRpdgpRmmNh_2A_db4DUE4VApoFYDZSFQEzOrn1f5Qzf_F_37WBdiBAfhRQlyagfFUBJXsVYsE/w400-h400/The+Castle+Promo+-+That+Chinese+Girl.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Advertisement by The Castle Museum</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div>Here was my session's description: </div><div><i><br /></i></div><div><i>The United States has often been described as a nation of immigrants, promising freedom and opportunity to those who arrived in America – but not everyone was welcomed. As early as the 1850s, Chinese immigrants were treated unfairly, with laws that made it difficult to enter the country, and restrictions on where they lived, worked, and educated their children. </i></div><div><i><br /></i></div><div><i>In this presentation, students will learn about the lives of Joseph and Mary Tape, who were Chinese immigrants living in San Francisco; as well as the struggles of their daughter, Mamie Tape, in getting to attend a public school in 1884. Referred to as “that Chinese girl” in the newspapers, Mamie Tape’s perseverance, and the winning decision in the Tape v. Hurley (1885) case, made history in the rights of all children to public education. Several primary sources, including court documents, a letter from Mrs. Tape, and photographs of the family, will be used to explore how the Chinese community fought for their civil rights and equality. </i></div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: start;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNvlqZurFqsRmzfe2S3rmyM9RgcH8tpzBssWauBFGHEGDXm_DHAAtwdwouzhWqfKWob0MCTOPofV9p_-xTPAWthjVvbGHzI7ICFhsODLnbB2OjBG1G9vFFIBNmDwZIE4Pd_8DHj0xeLNE/w399-h400/Patreon+-+Tape+Family.jpg" width="399" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tape Family Portrait, including (L-R) Joseph, Emily, Mamie, Frank, and Mary Tape, 1884-85.<br />Image in public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />The next two weekends at our museum were busy with back-to-back special events! The first weekend was Celebrating Chocolate weekend throughout the village; followed by the first Civil War Living History weekend, which took the place of the usual battle reenactment. We were joined by public historian, Marvin-Alonzo Greer, who can be found on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/magthehistorian/">@magthehistorian</a>. He is a wealth of knowledge and an excellent speaker, as well as just being lovely to meet in person. Both David Shakes, who portrays Fredrick Douglass, and Fritz Klein as President Abraham Lincoln, returned, and were greeted with a full house, or rather Brooks Grove Church - <i>not an empty seat in sight! </i></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAbqamjJEIoeBW3jUlF5cV_pXuIpEVIbpo4hio8ZYRvJ-g5l7G2w5jt-S5lst-kmN1ONFh1PiQvNEKvznSOXNJnkztCNJ5bL8HVtJLkFenznJKXgnHF_ASpz5tglKMQvhDTEFrBZzypf0/w640-h480/Civil+War+Weekend.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A conversation between Fredrick Douglass (David Shakes) & President Lincoln (Fritz Klein)<br />presented to a crowd in Brooks Grove Church, during the Civil War Living History Weekend. <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="text-align: center;"> </span><div>As if July wasn't busy enough, we ended the month with our "Paint the Village Red!" theme week, which featured a variety of activities around the color red. From offering historical red candies (like French burnt peanuts and cinnamon comfits); to red work embroidery demonstrations; readings of the Grimm's fairy tale, <i>Little Red Riding Hood; </i>and more - the week had us seeing red, in a colorful way! </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFgZ3V29o1sMzeGOo-d8q7cqPjhyphenhyphenkV7z6tBq2qyCZwA5XZoLgUnmV5L5LElDn1ZIVoTVYBOcHbevbdgTl0vWRIsqKfqHLtazhlJDgfNF08tVnihFMLm_pgGxaoK3jb4iKYKrb0sBRj0uM/w640-h480/Red+Work.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Judy demonstrating red work embroidery -<br />these blocks were the beginning of a reproduction quilt, which she's since finished!</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>To add a featured activity at the MacKay House, I set up a small dress display to show off a reproduction Balmoral petticoat (<i>while the original was on display at the gallery</i>). Balmoral petticoats were named after Balmoral Castle in Scotland, which is the connection to the MacKay family's heritage. These petticoats were commonly made from red wool flannel with bands of black trim at the hems, and popularized across Europe and the United States for fashionable cold-weather wear by Queen Victoria:</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijQY1JQQQcO7LxCPIkcMmSFeZNdAqRhk_wpRzJlJzCEglPU5QjK-VjnpFI3R7m2mF8KkzmbWkZ69nzKaccnmndGT-QXUd3m_lOJdIxDqqmQbD6ZH_Mo9WRTW8IGEmkMx8f46r491GQxik/w640-h480/Balmoral+Display+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Balmoral petticoat display at the MacKay House, featuring both a reproduction red wool petticoat and fashion plates.</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr_MsMDG-GWY7VGgy-1pcqzQCjkkYeAtwDYYl7sNUWVn1noTMibBeDcH8ZycWRTbKyvKv2dAP0-Skb5Q0IKrrKdUd8LsNTzCc8WhgjhC4_zN-79m5kv9EKdzFWEOAcSVCf0rp3t9iWXdQ/w480-h640/Balmoral+Display+%25281%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress display: the reproduction Balmoral petticoat was on loan from the gallery, <br />while the dress, coat and accessories were made/sourced by me.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br />And last, but not least, <i>there was a fashion show! </i> "All Dressed in Red" featured red-colored fashions from the 19th century, modeled by live models (<i>many thanks to Carly, Rhonda, and Janus Mary</i>), or displayed on dress forms. I had to make a new 1810s dress, of course, and am pleased with the results. The fabric is a soft cream and orange stripe with little, red flowers, and the design features short, puffed sleeves (that will eventually have detachable long sleeves). To complete the look, I wore a frilly chemisette to fill in the neckline and coral jewelry to emphasize the red theme!</div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyvVIDXMMrSVPyeCreSlWHNL91swvRsuD06_XspYC9TzgR79GnFlluth1tPDw6AlyyoskrMsGoJvEIadJXA67TO94vd7zOl7rbeu_iqGlKN88RoRZOsToXktq1y4DnlpCzbOXK3RGUUKo/w640-h480/All+Dressed+in+Red+-+Fashion+Show+2021.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>All Dressed in Red</i> Fashion Show: (from left to right) 1800s half robe, 1810s day dress, 1830s (Carly),<br />1840s/early-1850s (Rhonda), 1860s with a Balmoral petticoat, and 1870s (Janus Mary, on Sunday only).</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><b><u>August</u> - </b>The month began with managing the after-hours Ghost Stories tours, which for me was mostly remembering to set props, sneaking around to light candle lanterns (at least 15k steps a night), and unlocking and relocking buildings. The guides were the stars of the program! </div><div><br /></div><div>The month ended with another theme week - <i>Fiber week! </i>Luckily we have thriving fiber arts programs - spinning, dyeing, weaving, quilting, and sewing - and had fun incorporating "fibrous" foods in the historic kitchens. Other special activities, particularly appealing to younger audiences, included coloring pages of silk moths, hands-on rope making, and daily readings of<i> Rumpelstiltskin </i>(another Grimm's fairy tale)<i> </i>spinning straw into gold! </div><div><br /></div><div>At the Dressmaker's Shop, both Rhonda, the dressmaker, and Kaela graciously agreed to discuss silk, and its uses in ladies' clothing and accessories. I had set up a small table display (visible from behind a barrier) for the week, including some examples of silk from the stash, a bonnet, and various accessories; however, it was really brought to life when Kaela and Rhonda were staffing the shop. Both friends brought additional examples of silk and interpreted a fiber perhaps less familiar (<i>or less available</i>) to clothing-wearers today!</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUfSXN5H9I8yf8wxs3wKNPNmm0_X9vZe5IVeVgkkm6HtbKPDZdSvYNkap2FzYw3pSsbi6uPcoHMo4wYIa6D8Tz8Odo20CkW2h0xxs7nKcp2MsI8RzrV4lC45tELm85kTnEdjk0OIlijbE/w480-h640/Fiber+Week.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kaela in the Dressmaker's Shop: featuring silk, and its uses in ladies' clothing & accessories<br /><i>(Kaela, my friend, it was such a pleasure to see you again!)</i></td></tr></tbody></table><div> </div><div>I also gave my "From Plants to Pants" talk and flax processing demonstration daily from the MacKay porch. I recall on one for the days having a few ladies from a local spinning/fiber arts guild, who were a lot of fun, and I was really impressed with the audiences' questions overall. Hopefully people feel inspired to go out and buy some linen cloth and clothing now!</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAvFsX4XzOczfQm3fJNDr6mkitoZAntgJoG9hTcpHVi8MTZfNCjNn17-BF2zXlRD9umu7eVruyseW81OcrsirauOGLOI22BzEuG3RP-gBo-s8pcT6y3D9pHkD12DdlTZtWa4Ws51bec8g/w640-h480/Processing+Flax+2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The set-up for my "From Plants to Pants" talk & flax processing demonstration</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /><br /><b><u>September</u> - </b>Somehow it was Fall, and September brought both the Hop Harvest Festival and The Whirl, which is our museum's major, annual fundraising event. From all accounts, the Whirl was a wild success! I was one of the "pod captains" - playing hostess (<i>mainly serving alcohol and chatting about museum programming</i>) at the Foster and MacKay Houses - and, later in the evening, a "tour guide" for a candlelight stroll around the village. </div><div><br /></div><div>I'm borrowing this picture of the night from the museum's Facebook album...although I'm not exactly sure of the context, it's quite the candid and deserves a caption:</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZLYN2Ejs2pHyDo9JooETBwXSJLnP8gTgE5oSsC6bdE5iyAP-zTlYsEODnT_7M5GhXAToc0IZFOruLWPc0eU9BZ81EzX1ICGyDa0c0a1_pdL9FhrnL-oU3qEWENieNUcTP9tcCmjRBKOE/w640-h427/The+Whirl.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A photograph from the Whirl, via <a href="Genesee Country Village & Museum" target="_blank">GCVMuseum on Facebook</a><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>As for my outfit, I did make a new, wide-collared chemisette and matching cap. A neat detail is that the whitework frill has little, embroidered bows along the scalloped edges: </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge4CcqG8Y4lZ3842bYUzpxz0FrBRjqwrpqglyhsXbv8wdFDra3ft0if3ElzEueGo7DP3cFrhZTQVit_fHNPQisuwAe88PmNW26fM4pprY5GfUnrjuCpDD3esYKGTiM73yl-uquSuu4z_w/w480-h640/The+Whirl+OOTD.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outfit for the event: including a brand-new chemisette and cap with whitework frills just for the occasion!</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br />As for the rest of September, the Fall Hosmer Dinners were completely sold out - <i>again!</i> This was five nights, over three weekends, featuring an elegant, 4-course dinner in the historic inn, served by characters from the Hosmer family. Some might say that there are characters on the historic dining team too...but I can neither confirm, nor deny the statement ;) </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnUc3l3EcQlGdb7Opln6pT3M5vzV0eAlJStkaPa5nBLDbXj-MMY5kWvCTqlyi4l9UB_ftro2_QtGodAl8g5hN_vJVDrcSrCvW_sL613cTe219NaXQthdN0uT1cFF7l12p5Wbg04MLHToE/w640-h480/Fall+Hosmer+Dinner+%25281%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A behind-the-scenes shot of Hosmer Dinner set-up<br />...<i>and I promise, with Ariana as my witness, I didn't spill a drop of the soup, Lori! <br /></i>(Photograph courtesy of Lori)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>The Fall Hosmer Dinners celebrated Malinda Russell, author of <i>A Domestic Cook Book</i>, which is considered the first authored by an African-American woman and published in 1866. By using Malinda Russell's receipts to create the Bill of Fare, we pay tribute to her life’s work, her unbreakable spirit, and lasting legacy.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>The little that is known of Malinda Russell's life comes from the first pages of her cookbook, in which she offers a "Short History of the Author." Her story was one of suffering, of "hard labor and economy," and of survival. She was robbed of all of her property, twice, and eventually forced to leave the South under threats to her life. At the time of writing her cookbook, Malinda was living in Michigan as a "widow with one child" to support, and "hoping to receive enough from the sale of [her book] to enable [a] return home." Whether she ever made it back to Tennessee is sadly unknown. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9va4LbHYkZxcXqFzq-FumNbmYWr9g97LyhcogCiDaOkknCFUDzUl0pMaMd7zJscRi3d6PP1QBOYf4FoDCWtY7bZWYHTDg13aR1ygpJWvnGd4APUY1MTBk3a_X0UyKKRhTF33ke7dBj_M/w480-h640/Fall+Hosmer+Dinner+%25282%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fall Hosmer Dinners, a Tribute to Malinda Russell.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>From Malinda Russell’s years of keeping a pastry shop, many of her “receipts,” or recipes today, are actually for breads, cakes, puddings, pies, and confections of all kinds. To acknowledge that history, the Fall Bill of Fare featured a variety of freshly-baked goods, including hop rolls to complement the beef soup; a boiled whortleberry pudding with madeira sauce and glazed ham for the main course; onion custard and Irish potatoes as the sides; and a delightful lemon pie for dessert. Three types of seasonal pickles were also prepared according to Malinda's instructions: pickled cauliflower, sweet (tomato) pickles, and pickled plums. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1aFQn91NJQqomqJXPeP6WEQXNQDMMrqjTchQDjkNkb1xc-VhXLJ8o0mgaCy6gRIy8htEi1x47xhYSw3ldUaM4o7Lm-AyT6KRj6gwKhzMAkLVYaKb6he9R3raXeDqJ1o4v3lSHuvsa-0M/w640-h480/Fall+Hosmer+Dinner+-+GCV%2526M.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A sampling of the Fall Hosmer Dinner's "Bill of Fare":<br />Glazed ham, a boiled whortleberry pudding with madeira sauce, and freshly-baked hop rolls.<br />(Image by Deanna, via <a href="https://www.facebook.com/GCVMuseum/photos/10159447467561000/" target="_blank">GCVMuseum on Facebook</a>)</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>For the third course, (<i>a different offering than with the Spring MacKay Dinners</i>), a seasonal salmagundi with Hosmer House dressing is served alongside a heaping cheese platter with cheddar, quince, and heirloom grapes. Dessert featured the delicious lemon pie and strawberry cordial toast, with a platter of almonds, walnuts, and raisins to pass.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi10F67JwQeJA-N0GeP6rblklK5_E7vYcHIYMJ9qrHM1Ss-R9lLR8LZS9G1ZczLEFbXmC8RJAtiKUTslKGNB6TlFNfqFB8OEoTRY6bg18zdqOyNyf7LbNCUe-k_xvN6htcQ0C-J709RNu8/w640-h480/Fall+Hosmer+Dinner+%25283%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dessert course featured a delightful lemon pie from Malinda Russell's <i>A Domestic Cook Book</i>,<br />which was published in 1866 and considered to be the first authored by an African-American woman.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><u style="font-weight: bold;">October</u> - Winding down the season with two more, big events: the Agricultural Fair and <i>Apples, Apples, Apples</i> themed day! </div><div><br /></div><div>During the annual Agricultural Fair, we transformed Hosmer's Inn into our first ever Historical Coffee House! We served both hot and cold beverages, as well as three types of historical cakes: gingerbread with caramel icing, maple 1234 cake, and vanilla 1234 cake. Along with piping hot coffee and tea, refreshing apple cider and American Heritage drinking chocolate were our most popular choices!</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWK8QGgXqQX9q5OEim3wjtCgPVJVpyC-UbGCOirxyKMYsaB6J3c0RSpfC4LmAJ5TuTKDQF9iPtq8Nt5z-UikPuWUgEyPrh6DhW9rqdNUBYW1o8kyATFJ4XYnqo6mIA_jhNJbOulhZyoB4/w640-h427/Ag+Fair+-+Hosmer+Coffee+House+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hosmer's Coffee House: serving a variety of seasonal beverages with a slice of historical cake!<br />(Photograph via <a href="https://www.facebook.com/GCVMuseum/photos/10159523878076000/" target="_blank">GCVMuseum on Facebook</a>)</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>Also, I had the chance to have my silhouette cut by Lauren Muney of <a href="https://www.silhouettesbyhand.com/" target="_blank">Silhouettes By Hand</a> (Instagram @silhouettesbyhand)! She was a visiting artist for the weekend, and watching her freehand cut a portrait from paper was such a unique and memorable experience - <i>thank you, Lauren!</i></div><div><i><br /></i></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4lLa8ZeB192c1vvc_JDcoCp4B2n638PVaHw72qcqSwaIcv2sLbBsdt00BIhIFYQT3NXmJXTUriqvlePcnXMgYioG-gzmfo1GHVY2so76Vpt7Z_v6qg9RAFbYHvYlXieXdRa3UPF6wVyw/w640-h480/Ag+Fair+-+Silhouette+%25281%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Lauren Muney of </span><a href="https://www.silhouettesbyhand.com/" style="text-align: left;" target="_blank">Silhouettes By Hand</a> was a visiting artist during the Agricultural Fair!</td></tr></tbody></table><div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNXVHpip6mLl0VwEmvWS1Md_ml5I2Mu1KJqoA8_J71C3-KLbaPB1VGVfB9IdJUrlCnB_I1VhwXPYOuLpQJ6kXaM5JEWte4lMURah7Wy7YX7lLIzCQ9U7p4jzsiYNm8Cmn_lFljXZIsY4o/w640-h480/Ag+Fair+-+Silhouette+%25283%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Double portraits and mirror images, freehand cut by Lauren Muney, <br />left side on a white background and right on cream.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLCFkCvbkR1eZ0kdR_Z6dSXKAZ-YFK8-BEobszNAGjLgQOt8uyZdg8XLinrz4cKstyUsXqn-engCD-P8R5GCmwiVpiZAJhCv19Wy9PQSzi_uYtcyLebWiybnGFkZXaXU-P4I0Eto-WorA/w640-h640/Ag+Fair+-+Silhouette+%25282%2529.JPG" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My portrait, freehand cut by Lauren Muney</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div>On the final day of the season, we celebrated <i>Apples, Apples, Apples </i>themed day! I thought it would be a nice touch to offer fresh apple cider and historical cakes (both gingerbread with caramel icing and vanilla 1234 cake) for sale at the MacArthur House. <i>Who knew we'd go through 12 gallons of apple cider?! </i>It was quite the event to end the season:<i> </i></div><div><i><br /></i></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdOe0dLrpabsJFciyptplxpvTMdxJtBhOp30BW6-SXly7Zf6Q7RB8M35jOIijI256vHsSeWfjIN9jJZuprN2scnGv9SPrCSkiQjPgAPOkAI_XIfsFpzqUoty9oT9W1Hz1Poz-zKRJkC64/w640-h480/Apples%252C+apples%252C+apples+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Selling fresh apple cider and historical cakes at the MacArthur House during Apples, Apples, Apples themed day - <br /><i>We went through 12 gallons of apple cider!</i></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>Judy, my partner-n-crime, and I made sure to wear our apple-green dresses just for the occassion:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/2/#" style="text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8DwIaGzIQoFMvErf_rl0ZIfM_UQdRVJ3EkkMx9Cl-e1TWmReiVWB0ZzMHow5SRufuUUDwJJfnqooilrdCsPBOpKXEWukgWthVn25IOgTF3KwA8f_bDrD1iu46qhUIVjR8tlFpsoSjk0E/w480-h640/Apples%252C+apples%252C+apples+%25281%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><br /></div><div>And that, dear readers, is the ending to the 2021 Museum Season recap! I'd write a more spectacular conclusion if I wasn't so tired from typing this ridiculously-long post...<i>perhaps I should have divided it into multiple parts?</i> Anyways, now you know what I've been up to during the months of silence on the blog - <i>high-five if you made it all the way to this part of the blog post! </i></div><div><i><br /></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSYccqua1SUX8s2Amr3Twz1brw3RyXp36mjQGLxCYylWcDpToQ3iLPCX4_qc1lflgVuike-mztRGvuWzhnCY6EtCNaq9NNlIw-4ftdquL1Gz5mlJ-gMyjGzlUrgwNUoCwJUj4Iv74mtIw/s2048/Setting+Sun+at+Town+Hall.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1588" data-original-width="2048" height="496" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSYccqua1SUX8s2Amr3Twz1brw3RyXp36mjQGLxCYylWcDpToQ3iLPCX4_qc1lflgVuike-mztRGvuWzhnCY6EtCNaq9NNlIw-4ftdquL1Gz5mlJ-gMyjGzlUrgwNUoCwJUj4Iv74mtIw/w640-h496/Setting+Sun+at+Town+Hall.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Farewell to the 2021 Museum Season!</b></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Thank you for all of the memories, <i>and 'till the next season </i><span style="text-align: left;">❤</span></b></div><br /></div></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-50971377809056743092021-10-19T19:45:00.001-04:002021-10-19T19:45:00.243-04:00So I Took a Break from Content Creation...Now What?As the title reads, <i>so I took a break from content creation...</i>In fact, I took a rather extended break, as you'll see between the jump in calendar months from my last post to today's. And you know what, <i>it's okay</i> to do that, and, even better, I'm relieved that I did. <div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHt9fi5E0SnZ75qSe4eG1HwhU7sw0oTrsJLn4k-5aV2A1_Xx18hZk2mS0Xkmx7GnAyM4g3igpIaAubDBVJ47REl5MISv0VA-EaugAfdmIp_6ks5kER02hU6Hr-RPU-JvWa9MSGoJtK9g/s2048/Blue+-+Spode+Transferware.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1535" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHt9fi5E0SnZ75qSe4eG1HwhU7sw0oTrsJLn4k-5aV2A1_Xx18hZk2mS0Xkmx7GnAyM4g3igpIaAubDBVJ47REl5MISv0VA-EaugAfdmIp_6ks5kER02hU6Hr-RPU-JvWa9MSGoJtK9g/w640-h480/Blue+-+Spode+Transferware.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>As a content creator, there's no shaking the sense of guilt that comes from not publishing frequently, or at least on a more consistent schedule. We feel the pressures of our #hustleculture, of balancing "the grind" with having a life, and, of course, the ongoing pandemic. As artists, we get caught up in the production - and in the likes and opinions on social media - rather than recognizing the potential for healing and fulfillment through our expression. </div><div><br /></div><div><div>So, take a break. When you're feeling burned-out, or preferably before you get there, take a step back to reset and recharge. This could be for an hour, or an afternoon; a day or days; a week or weeks - as long as you need to feel re-energized and ready to come back. There is no timeline, other than that which is self-imposed. Blogging is supposed to be fun, and in order to keep it so, I took a break. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8vaTfcdgZPg0iJAo29FMvwOrGe6n3MmLs0y5icj5_QsBRfj63NwRxSqde-Mp4euRGn2ZhzqEPThvOMq-9OwhWZ7FW8K2wl41YWIzFU1sIbsvPHfhcf5e9SS97FaIQCxHEE9L76PH8upQ/s2048/Day+19+-+Pleats+OR+Stripes+for+Day+22.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1535" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8vaTfcdgZPg0iJAo29FMvwOrGe6n3MmLs0y5icj5_QsBRfj63NwRxSqde-Mp4euRGn2ZhzqEPThvOMq-9OwhWZ7FW8K2wl41YWIzFU1sIbsvPHfhcf5e9SS97FaIQCxHEE9L76PH8upQ/w480-h640/Day+19+-+Pleats+OR+Stripes+for+Day+22.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><i>...Now what? </i>I'm diving back into my content creation, and more importantly, looking forward to just putting my thoughts on paper, digitally. In a way, more so than on my other platforms, this blog is mine - it is not, and probably will not ever be "big" - and in this little corner of the internet, I share my authentic self. Not for likes, or for money, or for anything beyond the joy of expression. There's always the hope that someone will stumble across a post they connect with, or that is useful for their own projects - <i>and if that's you today, high five!</i></div><div><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP-bpTpjYmFTGNYB11Bwl9aooK7tyRZI1_0TZAUSg_W2oNg3K9vEMOP737yjXxOUaBNd44jQvrjeEcgd9GnFjkl4SQXCnVaPFf1_xad_oTJNql95gX17Ny3Bru4b-He1sFxzAvG4cGWk4/s1936/Day+24+-+Shadow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1452" data-original-width="1936" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP-bpTpjYmFTGNYB11Bwl9aooK7tyRZI1_0TZAUSg_W2oNg3K9vEMOP737yjXxOUaBNd44jQvrjeEcgd9GnFjkl4SQXCnVaPFf1_xad_oTJNql95gX17Ny3Bru4b-He1sFxzAvG4cGWk4/w640-h480/Day+24+-+Shadow.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div>As for where you'll find me most actively posting right now, I've been participating in the #fallforcostume challenge, hosted by @Redthreaded over on Instagram. It's become an annual tradition that offers a daily prompt for inspiring a month of posts across the costuming community. In fact, I've posted every day this month, and you can find me on IG @youngsewphisticate! </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>I do also have a few research-heavy projects in the works, both for my day-job (in interpretive program management), and for an upcoming virtual lecture for the <a href="http://www.corsetsandcravats.com/lectures-and-classes.html" target="_blank">Corsets & Cravats, 4th quarter series</a>! </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div><i>P.S. Blogger has discontinued their email subscription services, so if you used to receive blog updates through email, please hang tight while I find another service provider...or follow our <a href="https://www.facebook.com/youngsewphisticate">Facebook Page</a> for notifications & direct links to new blog posts!</i></div></div></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-74395041811282321862021-03-14T22:27:00.004-04:002021-03-14T23:46:59.918-04:00Two Roads Diverged: Taking a Hiatus<div style="text-align: center;"><i> "Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,<br />And sorry I could not travel both"<br />- Robert Frost</i></div><p>Upon graduation, I found myself searching - for a job, for an affordable apartment (<i>still looking</i>), for a sign, a direction, or just about anything with the ongoing pandemic. It wasn't long and I found myself blessed with not just one, but two full-time job offers. For the first, I had gone through the lengthy interview process, and the second came to me rather unexpectedly. I found myself like the traveler at two roads diverged, facing two paths, both with opportunities to apply my degree and interests in separate, yet equally rewarding ways.</p><p>And readers, I made my choice. I have accepted a full-time position in museum management, with responsibilities for overseeing and developing interpretive programming, special and after-hours events, and other collaborative efforts. I have also decided to remain a part-time team member at a retailer of crafts and fabrics, where the most rewarding duty is helping customers plan and procure the supplies for their sewing projects. In addition to occasionally cashiering and stocking, working at the fabric cutting counter (where you're most likely to find me) has allowed me to apply my love of fabrics (<i>and enabling fabric buying for projects or stash-building haha)</i> and teaching sewing on the daily. </p><p>So while I haven't had the time or space to work on my own projects (<i>everything is still in boxes from my move</i>), I have found within the retail job, a much needed creative outlet, filling the void left by my lack of present artistic practice. That said, I am now working two jobs - one fulltime plus, and the other part-time (<i>and physically, quite the workout!</i>). In millennial speak - the hustle is real - trying to dodge burnout with 60 hour work weeks, and still hoping to afford a place of my own, eventually. However, I think I'm learning how to do this "adult" thing...</p><p>That said, there is a cost to this path I am choosing. For most part, I will be placing the "sewphisticate" on hold. So when updates on my blog and social media become scarce - they are not abandoned, only on hiatus. (<i>Please note that for now, <a href="https://www.patreon.com/sewphisticate">my Patreon</a> will still be active, and any potential changes to services there will be announced.</i>) </p><p><b>Thank you for your continued support, and if you see me out and about - either at the museum or in the fabric store - please say hello!</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtGfH55HyplidzhkbQstIilcAwmsbCi3JrHk8I2nRgkS2hHyBG9i3ivIstC1wqk7DnoQzx8ieSa7enRgiLPnkKG68W_owdhYJZaFyBXvikpP5DE1Q9WR7PfcpeyKMqOW0q3pscJDJ-V0/s2048/Staircase.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1535" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtGfH55HyplidzhkbQstIilcAwmsbCi3JrHk8I2nRgkS2hHyBG9i3ivIstC1wqk7DnoQzx8ieSa7enRgiLPnkKG68W_owdhYJZaFyBXvikpP5DE1Q9WR7PfcpeyKMqOW0q3pscJDJ-V0/w480-h640/Staircase.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-86972490266947772492021-02-18T17:10:00.000-05:002021-02-18T17:10:51.446-05:00"Purled" or Ruched Ribbon Trim<p>Making decorative trim is like frosting on a cake! A delight for the eyes, frilly, and fun, ribbon trimming can be the perfect finishing touch for any special project - and it only takes a few, simple and quick stitches to whip up a length. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1-jsKIXnh0ohknV6m-iTpfbDWK5JAPlxRJf0c8LhV3rJtZ2AZwDGeqY4jy_nXFxyFm5v-BmNNNDbadX_z4EGEWMoywhCaZDnB957AZnAN-78TVLAf2moE8wTbv55kVc07R_Eal2xKZmA/s1991/Purled+or+Ruched+Ribbon.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1421" data-original-width="1991" height="357" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1-jsKIXnh0ohknV6m-iTpfbDWK5JAPlxRJf0c8LhV3rJtZ2AZwDGeqY4jy_nXFxyFm5v-BmNNNDbadX_z4EGEWMoywhCaZDnB957AZnAN-78TVLAf2moE8wTbv55kVc07R_Eal2xKZmA/w640-h458/Purled+or+Ruched+Ribbon.png" width="500" /></a></p><p>In today's blog post, I'll be sharing one of my favorite techniques for ruched, "purled," or "shell" trimming. Ruching is another term for "gathering," and in this application, large running stitches across the length of a ribbon create a distinct and dimensional swirling pattern:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0LNfCQx608fVRxNkF1k0AfSwmbWikktGIb-kWKzFKnMMIow0BY-Poip67mAS1YAo6oxnD9gNq_nnRBLlkottJDJhIm-6GS_5TCHOhIXc5khqEWDvGV7lmxOs03GTOt4suEZue__q6hlI/s2048/Ruched+Trim+%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0LNfCQx608fVRxNkF1k0AfSwmbWikktGIb-kWKzFKnMMIow0BY-Poip67mAS1YAo6oxnD9gNq_nnRBLlkottJDJhIm-6GS_5TCHOhIXc5khqEWDvGV7lmxOs03GTOt4suEZue__q6hlI/w400-h300/Ruched+Trim+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Purled" or Ruched Ribbon Trimming</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">While I was familiar previously with a range of ruched trimmings, I was introduced to this particular style during a college "special topics" class in theatrical millinery. Referred to as "purled ribbon" trimming, the following is an excerpt from the 1922 edition of <i>Ribbon Trimmings: A Course in Six Parts</i> by the Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences, Department of Millinery (see the <a href="https://www.worldcat.org/title/ribbon-trimmings-a-course-in-six-parts/oclc/26392703">1992 reprint by Sloane Publications</a>): </div><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjygfSPPJaRzYuiyLK5wkg1F8Rm8C_1eetpbrNIcSVilHQWWow2CmZ40IkyHHbeqw1sQlpSo43tPA9AHhvGsTT-3BcPj66pV_9tH9qm47NY7Xu0zmePrNvak6Rxiga9jAldWTSEu6T3ejg/s765/Purled+trim+-+1922%252C+image+1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="671" data-original-width="765" height="351" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjygfSPPJaRzYuiyLK5wkg1F8Rm8C_1eetpbrNIcSVilHQWWow2CmZ40IkyHHbeqw1sQlpSo43tPA9AHhvGsTT-3BcPj66pV_9tH9qm47NY7Xu0zmePrNvak6Rxiga9jAldWTSEu6T3ejg/w400-h351/Purled+trim+-+1922%252C+image+1.JPG" width="400" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-s_6Wj7b_48MjnbpAlHoZ8RzvMmaCupli41O8lBNB5sYO5oxclOjuc1l5O37WH7ta_9jc7iEX9fKGa7DQLzgi1YC0A7cqd7_81K13XBNK3kLbvKbmrsj6QExrHKf2hTxu2I4l0qc9JYI/s784/Purled+trim+-+1922%252C+image+2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="784" height="122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-s_6Wj7b_48MjnbpAlHoZ8RzvMmaCupli41O8lBNB5sYO5oxclOjuc1l5O37WH7ta_9jc7iEX9fKGa7DQLzgi1YC0A7cqd7_81K13XBNK3kLbvKbmrsj6QExrHKf2hTxu2I4l0qc9JYI/w400-h122/Purled+trim+-+1922%252C+image+2.JPG" width="400" /></a></p><p style="text-align: left;">In a later, 1934 edition of <i>Decorative Stitches and Trimmings,</i> also by the Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences, the technique appears as "shell trimming." (Access the <a href="https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/009121759">digital copy from Cornell University through HathiTrust</a>.) Interestingly, notice the use of an almost identical image (Fig. 5 above; Fig. 4 below) in both texts:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMbVHzWKcZpgd-Obqk40SN6n1VnO0E4J5aYlsW4TCrNJHUoZ_JYuao2SFYhGx5f0VvREJGextcugwFRVCh0kkLpLxmzVjoliva1gmWaWVUhiduxOoggFIbXRrY6tHD6Xr2U7B4JM0Zc0Y/s1008/Shell+trim+-+1934%252C+image+1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1008" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMbVHzWKcZpgd-Obqk40SN6n1VnO0E4J5aYlsW4TCrNJHUoZ_JYuao2SFYhGx5f0VvREJGextcugwFRVCh0kkLpLxmzVjoliva1gmWaWVUhiduxOoggFIbXRrY6tHD6Xr2U7B4JM0Zc0Y/w400-h271/Shell+trim+-+1934%252C+image+1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSkewKAsQWZpWjemzvB-0GMsF5omGdkaGkFH1jnuLPWlb6_Lvg8ssIbrOml7DW1Vfu3YHcL9q7TgPpEjJdb9Rplan-w8CENgcjHgvNmVBpg0PQ80MmRVZsj0m3wbjOvH8i9dlpR0mU0_4/s950/Shell+trim+-+1934%252C+image+2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="154" data-original-width="950" height="65" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSkewKAsQWZpWjemzvB-0GMsF5omGdkaGkFH1jnuLPWlb6_Lvg8ssIbrOml7DW1Vfu3YHcL9q7TgPpEjJdb9Rplan-w8CENgcjHgvNmVBpg0PQ80MmRVZsj0m3wbjOvH8i9dlpR0mU0_4/w400-h65/Shell+trim+-+1934%252C+image+2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><b>Now for directions on how to make "purled" trim for your own projects!</b></div><p style="text-align: left;">First, gather your supplies. These include the length of ribbon, a sturdy thread to match (<i>I was using a glazed hand-quilting thread</i>), and a sharp needle. Consider the scale of your project when selecting the ribbon - a narrow 1"-2" width would make for a delicate edge, while a wider 6"-8" width would make a more dramatic, swooping trim. The length of ribbon required varies depending on how densely you wish to draw the gathers; I found that 2-3 times the desired finished length was sufficient. </p><p style="text-align: left;">Cut (or use a continuous) length of thread, and secure it to the edge of the ribbon with a few stitches or a pin. Using a loose running stitch, work a line of diagonal stitches from the top edge to the bottom edge, and another in the other direction (bottom to top). Continue stitching across the ribbon in a zig-zag pattern like this:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbbK7h2ivyUsS96rLHsKkXmKPxZle9n-_r2TljtLRGE_764aH8lqRsVLqs5076Q0rGz18noQLpfUURFc5YPrjDPCFvaT1uZBwe7Gbmgf2YQ-UCXlTfXoEn3w76BhPwby3L6KjL6Br4FZQ/s2048/Ruched+trim+-+step+by+step+%25281%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbbK7h2ivyUsS96rLHsKkXmKPxZle9n-_r2TljtLRGE_764aH8lqRsVLqs5076Q0rGz18noQLpfUURFc5YPrjDPCFvaT1uZBwe7Gbmgf2YQ-UCXlTfXoEn3w76BhPwby3L6KjL6Br4FZQ/w400-h266/Ruched+trim+-+step+by+step+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Running stitches in a zig-zag pattern</td></tr></tbody></table><br />If you want to ensure that the gathers are evenly spaced, you can measure and mark the bias (<i>as described in the vintage millinery manuals above</i>), or simply "eyeball" the spacing as the gathers can be adjusted later...speaking of adjusting, I like to begin gathering the trim as I stitch. <div><br /></div><div>To gather the ribbon, simply pull on the thread gently to form the folds. Experiment with the tightness of the gathers until pleasing - I preferred the look of denser gathers, which billow into a soft, yet structural scallop; while a looser gather retains more of the curvy zig-zag shape. </div><div><br /><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfJLxeevTvHeECEeuf010JfLWJZLTZXDMhp9LGlQNfWMqcwtSP-DJ_4vNxLmIPS0QswD3vSzwx-qIoXsyW-Jg8uTBwM0b1G6bdt76hTrZPpDhDb3x8s_JITF3r2PvneoZeSOAijx_ci2Q/s2048/Ruched+trim+-+step+by+step+%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfJLxeevTvHeECEeuf010JfLWJZLTZXDMhp9LGlQNfWMqcwtSP-DJ_4vNxLmIPS0QswD3vSzwx-qIoXsyW-Jg8uTBwM0b1G6bdt76hTrZPpDhDb3x8s_JITF3r2PvneoZeSOAijx_ci2Q/w400-h266/Ruched+trim+-+step+by+step+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gently pull on the thread to ruche or gather the ribbon</td></tr></tbody></table><br />When you've reached the desired length of trim, secure the threads at both ends of the ribbon to prevent the stitches from coming undone. Fluff, redistribute, and arrange the gathers as needed. <br /><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbs4xmv_NGQzKNKZA4jJgah6PMQWn9Q3s8i0S5RIJVuqxVQJPl1FHkT5X8WtsjZerRAghu6IhgZ07SFXEaTPtJzSnsDrmwAFcPIvc1BJJLSEAMo_gKfW-d4zEi7qU9JkXbEAL_W2BYbxU/s2048/Ruched+trim+-+step+by+step+%25283%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbs4xmv_NGQzKNKZA4jJgah6PMQWn9Q3s8i0S5RIJVuqxVQJPl1FHkT5X8WtsjZerRAghu6IhgZ07SFXEaTPtJzSnsDrmwAFcPIvc1BJJLSEAMo_gKfW-d4zEi7qU9JkXbEAL_W2BYbxU/w400-h300/Ruched+trim+-+step+by+step+%25283%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrange the gathers and secure the threads at both ends</td></tr></tbody></table><br />And now your ruched ribbon trim is finished and ready to be added to the project of choice!</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8DMlT0YgSW4B2GVdDaUaI2tMi1KrJLBKMIKxw0GSERGzpEwRR7_CAf245flLq8ZAoJbfNnHffoUzD0ZYoGRghZONQQbAt2D8OXYrFyjz5NS0LtfQVavRnh57sPRNN-XUYWQwhaAo0-xQ/s2048/Ruched+Trim+%25281%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8DMlT0YgSW4B2GVdDaUaI2tMi1KrJLBKMIKxw0GSERGzpEwRR7_CAf245flLq8ZAoJbfNnHffoUzD0ZYoGRghZONQQbAt2D8OXYrFyjz5NS0LtfQVavRnh57sPRNN-XUYWQwhaAo0-xQ/w400-h300/Ruched+Trim+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished sample of "purled" or ruched ribbon trim</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">Here's what the finished trim looks like added on top of another gathered frill on a cotton cap: <i>doesn't it look like a confection? The more trimmings, the merrier!</i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi5One04Rxd43MSt7C_6na56Fzee_RIXhNm4Cs4HNHF-PgXOR1yBjplMyYW-3jekC1jji71J2NKWt-TGxu_6h5C_HZbZvtazXkTbOwI2B6TF80z8x8jgLkfVGEWq5_kzH0aaEYJ-iFZb4/s2048/Ruched+trim+on+cap.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi5One04Rxd43MSt7C_6na56Fzee_RIXhNm4Cs4HNHF-PgXOR1yBjplMyYW-3jekC1jji71J2NKWt-TGxu_6h5C_HZbZvtazXkTbOwI2B6TF80z8x8jgLkfVGEWq5_kzH0aaEYJ-iFZb4/w400-h300/Ruched+trim+on+cap.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcz3UnhA3QAhEXukY2UsbXNzFlqK4XFpzlN1sK1h5zywOjdINNCde8grYhg9UBx_pYnaawzGl0vTXSX8zDn_FpnnsdcgYQ1Bdx__1taB42AuBiTj5e19vRP1HynnTnVLSYoAWMrZNB5EA/s2048/Ruched+trim+on+cap+detail.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcz3UnhA3QAhEXukY2UsbXNzFlqK4XFpzlN1sK1h5zywOjdINNCde8grYhg9UBx_pYnaawzGl0vTXSX8zDn_FpnnsdcgYQ1Bdx__1taB42AuBiTj5e19vRP1HynnTnVLSYoAWMrZNB5EA/w320-h320/Ruched+trim+on+cap+detail.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><i>Have you ever made "purled" or another style of ruched ribbon trim?</i> </p><p>If you're looking for more ideas, check out these "<a href="https://sewguide.com/make-ribbon-trims/#8_triangle_folded_ribbon_trim">10 Easy to Make Ribbon Trims</a>" from <i>Sew Guide, </i>and there's an entire book (<i>which I'm currently eyeing</i>) on <i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1561583081">Ribbon Trims: An Embellishment Idea Book</a></i> by Nancy Nehring. If this tutorial was helpful to your sewing and you make something with ruched ribbon trim - feel free to share in the comments below! </p></div></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-26390826548545426092021-01-13T10:00:00.004-05:002021-01-13T10:00:02.190-05:00Solstice Swap 2020 [Gift Unboxing]<div class="separator">Back in December, Katie Lovely of <a href="https://www.facebook.com/LatinaLivingHistory/">Latina Living History</a> organized an international "costuber" and costumer Solstice Swap! Each of the participants drew a name in secret and exchanged gifts on the winter solstice, spreading much needed joy during the holiday season. </div><div class="separator"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk6pKvDVDpVVwbmopEfboXgwF1IYG5BqhtkLzLqRMIhlcW8C38BBkFMHg_jcIOuV0sHCaOalEYEDYgIygG-CSayO71ogPtVXe_bCcxHTxIqcvCjBSXnU8gpLzw3MOUiDEK7R7Qyh80l8s/s2048/Solstice+Swap+Poster.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk6pKvDVDpVVwbmopEfboXgwF1IYG5BqhtkLzLqRMIhlcW8C38BBkFMHg_jcIOuV0sHCaOalEYEDYgIygG-CSayO71ogPtVXe_bCcxHTxIqcvCjBSXnU8gpLzw3MOUiDEK7R7Qyh80l8s/w400-h225/Solstice+Swap+Poster.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Follow the official tag: #solsticeswap2020</td></tr></tbody></table><p>If you've been following my other social media, you may have already seen my gift reveal, but I wanted to do a follow up post simply to share more pictures! Look for the official tag - #solsticeswap2020 - to see all of the other, fun gift exchanges and unboxing videos on YouTube. </p><p>But first, a shout out to Marion Brégier of the blog, <a href="http://green-martha.blogspot.com/">Green Martha</a>, who was my solstice swap! Marion makes the most gorgeous historical costumes, art, and illustrations, and her bullet journal pages are seriously<i> amazing</i>! If you don't already, follow her on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/green.martha/">Instagram @green.martha</a> and on her <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEJ4eW8m_M6n3a3fOSss3_Q">Youtube channel</a>. Prepare to be inspired...and possibly start bullet journaling if you don't already :)</p><p><br /></p><p><b><u>Solstice Swap Gift Unboxing</u></b></p><p>My solstice swap gift came from the one and only, Kristen of <a href="http://victorianneedle.blogspot.com/">The Victorian Needle</a> blog. (She's also on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/thevictorian_needle/">Instagram @thevictorian_needle</a> and <a href="https://www.tiktok.com/@the_victorian_needle">Tiktok @the_victorian_needle</a>, where you can find more of her crafts and hilarious #teachertok videos). She really surprised me - going all out with my favorite colors, which are blues and corals; including Pusheen (<i>love that cat!</i>); and making the most beautiful, handmade and historical treasures:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaZQCjb9BNYxrGvmXOY-JKaZC0aTSdUPGAsM56v8FmaQrRfZ6jx-JNb0hQPjYPrPBs7gmevp4ZszfVfndPp1mHDUZeGaYm_xYg8o_ERHkU45SwtVQ2D0ugTKEq-haXtMYEKaicf7lEBdw/s2048/Box.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaZQCjb9BNYxrGvmXOY-JKaZC0aTSdUPGAsM56v8FmaQrRfZ6jx-JNb0hQPjYPrPBs7gmevp4ZszfVfndPp1mHDUZeGaYm_xYg8o_ERHkU45SwtVQ2D0ugTKEq-haXtMYEKaicf7lEBdw/w320-h320/Box.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Obligatory box photo...about to be opened!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />And here's the reveal - I still can't believe she managed to fit everything inside the box!<div><br /><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizGLt9qiyfrJcGTXHIH_nQ7sWbcR5OGRdSF3BzJE5hE10VswguDFjf4zkuM8kDeERO3sprZ7trG1y1cEAT8QVARqW5KW98GMQguynd4oBjsFR6atSlKywWg6rD-ayKMEmr6uprqZ5-iC4/s2048/Unboxing.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizGLt9qiyfrJcGTXHIH_nQ7sWbcR5OGRdSF3BzJE5hE10VswguDFjf4zkuM8kDeERO3sprZ7trG1y1cEAT8QVARqW5KW98GMQguynd4oBjsFR6atSlKywWg6rD-ayKMEmr6uprqZ5-iC4/w400-h300/Unboxing.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gift unboxing!</td></tr></tbody></table><br />As for the particulars, there was a historical handkerchief from Burnley and Trowbridge: unknown by the sender, I actually had been eyeing this pattern for a while, and was thrilled to see this!<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2z9_4htjRIRxjaMBWIoedxQFXsPUN_bg_0I46p1uuMbwja9KX8CEWUMUzDHty9_ukKrnsR-SGDL5N-oxQtFpydaJaGdXtSBj-LkPh29BzELU-NkRFb80cqHj87ACBzyunxY_VjYdQcYw/s2048/B%252BT+Kerchief.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2z9_4htjRIRxjaMBWIoedxQFXsPUN_bg_0I46p1uuMbwja9KX8CEWUMUzDHty9_ukKrnsR-SGDL5N-oxQtFpydaJaGdXtSBj-LkPh29BzELU-NkRFb80cqHj87ACBzyunxY_VjYdQcYw/s320/B%252BT+Kerchief.JPG" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Postcards from the Detroit Institute of Arts: also unknown by the sender, I collect postcards! So, Kristen really checked off every box with her gift ;)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLPqC6j3xcm2qS_BXYf1Z998mUuc8ZGDvPTqbqQ0lBGOWJXDCpbgkxLKiTwwC5QFBAg_-2mK3C_vES3OxkBMSjcvNhM78ylOMmwtZJrtEv1nI6aN4SUkekDFV09NmYDhQ1eVGx_Oz-aSs/s2048/Art+Postcards.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLPqC6j3xcm2qS_BXYf1Z998mUuc8ZGDvPTqbqQ0lBGOWJXDCpbgkxLKiTwwC5QFBAg_-2mK3C_vES3OxkBMSjcvNhM78ylOMmwtZJrtEv1nI6aN4SUkekDFV09NmYDhQ1eVGx_Oz-aSs/w400-h300/Art+Postcards.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And an <i>incredible</i>, hand-beaded, punch paper sewing box filled with an assortment of matching, punch paper sewing accessories! </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNrYwieXtagq1RJLuckdodOCgT7B9ozwck-GOa4Q2ghjNJbEtsuSJv_kiYlEWK1GRVeuBIsVPGQsXwX9xT0Kh49y6ooEuLk61O5k4IJ7D703X5KaqXAg9xw0zyFY8U0i67vv7xETFH4qs/s2048/Punch+Paper+Box+-+1.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNrYwieXtagq1RJLuckdodOCgT7B9ozwck-GOa4Q2ghjNJbEtsuSJv_kiYlEWK1GRVeuBIsVPGQsXwX9xT0Kh49y6ooEuLk61O5k4IJ7D703X5KaqXAg9xw0zyFY8U0i67vv7xETFH4qs/w400-h400/Punch+Paper+Box+-+1.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hand-beaded, punch paper sewing box and matching accessories!</td></tr></tbody></table><br />In case you were wondering what "punch paper" refers to, it is actually a heavy-weight paper with a grid of evenly-spaced, punched holes through which embroidery thread can be worked, much like modern day Aida cloth or needlepoint canvas. According to an article on "<a href="http://www.victoriana.com/Embroidery/perforatedpaper.html">Perforated Paper Needlework</a>" by Diana Matthews, "perforated carboard" was available by the 1820s, and "gained in favor over the decades to become one of the most popular craft items of the Victorian age."</div><div><br /></div><div>Matthews further speaks to the popularity and widespread uses for the craft, explaining that:</div><div><br /></div><blockquote><div>"During its heyday, perforated paper was available in dozens of different colors and embossed patterns and was used for making a large variety of household items. <i>Godey's Lady's Book</i>, <i>Peterson's Magazine</i> as well as a host of other periodicals and books of the day regularly gave patterns for items to be made from this most innovative product. Needle cases, wall pockets, stamp holders, hair receivers and complicated ornaments could be fashioned from it along with the bookmarks and mottoes as it lent itself well to both flat and 3-dimensional crafts." </div></blockquote><blockquote><div style="text-align: right;">- "<a href="http://www.victoriana.com/Embroidery/perforatedpaper.html">Perforated Paper Needlework</a>" by Diana Matthews, <i>Victoriana Magazine</i> </div></blockquote><div><br /></div><div><div>In fact, Kristen is an avid creator and collector of all things perforated paper, and probably holds <i>the</i> largest, antique, punch paper collection in the country, if not the world. She's also written a booklet with scaled patterns (<i>if you can find a copy, I highly recommend!</i>), and teaches workshops on the subject.</div></div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkBUhuHSNAXx6fcKdz5lzD6paMnMxNaS9TzvgiKIW4j7Y3_blPdDT7xuv7pgRB80KeL9uvW4HzFhNb9MucjwrSClf2w3vROT953KCX_OlPvHRnK5uSSBQQFGfcbZmAm3pi0wfjM6Wi4qI/s2048/Unboxing+2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2047" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkBUhuHSNAXx6fcKdz5lzD6paMnMxNaS9TzvgiKIW4j7Y3_blPdDT7xuv7pgRB80KeL9uvW4HzFhNb9MucjwrSClf2w3vROT953KCX_OlPvHRnK5uSSBQQFGfcbZmAm3pi0wfjM6Wi4qI/w400-h400/Unboxing+2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>Each component of Kristen's gift is a work of art itself, so I wanted to highlight the items on their own to give a sense of scale and close-ups of the intricate details. Starting with the beaded sewing box, which is lined in royal blue silk:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7rlBh08lKIVIiEWglPSZkIQ-k69PI_4jj5__UORNKLYc_uMaHo5ti0CeRL5dQtjA0yqJiyL-6fTLbZN5rTw2FCgCC63KOBrF-3yuMdunxb5JtCVEsKRICgncTC9lnXqDFygorqF8GiYU/s2048/Punch+Paper+Box+-+2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7rlBh08lKIVIiEWglPSZkIQ-k69PI_4jj5__UORNKLYc_uMaHo5ti0CeRL5dQtjA0yqJiyL-6fTLbZN5rTw2FCgCC63KOBrF-3yuMdunxb5JtCVEsKRICgncTC9lnXqDFygorqF8GiYU/s320/Punch+Paper+Box+-+2.JPG" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdRqARFHvcVK_COwg4TfMVAFpAi4K2y0dyH58X2mFPXo41OIM5B4_BnebunuTuh_D0H4aX1glc7kwEimH_SMYc3WaOjZWMXj5pcpJ6jSlj0h4ZQsU67AHw_baDLYexU_9_B87oGwt0wh4/s2048/Punch+Paper+Box+-+3.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdRqARFHvcVK_COwg4TfMVAFpAi4K2y0dyH58X2mFPXo41OIM5B4_BnebunuTuh_D0H4aX1glc7kwEimH_SMYc3WaOjZWMXj5pcpJ6jSlj0h4ZQsU67AHw_baDLYexU_9_B87oGwt0wh4/s320/Punch+Paper+Box+-+3.JPG" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Matching, embroidered thread winders:</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSbAPifPDE9-idx651qS4LILFbtowjU8H_ENAJnj4JM0z3KaFD0UoLvfJ_jmVFzs-9FAAACePChOA71nFRMpv326kyJJThImOO0OwnMD9Y87nAu20SaIpAIUWEwicQn0EocSTpYfP-ZUI/s2048/Thread+winders.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSbAPifPDE9-idx651qS4LILFbtowjU8H_ENAJnj4JM0z3KaFD0UoLvfJ_jmVFzs-9FAAACePChOA71nFRMpv326kyJJThImOO0OwnMD9Y87nAu20SaIpAIUWEwicQn0EocSTpYfP-ZUI/s320/Thread+winders.JPG" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A beaded, castle-shaped tape measure and holder, which took a lot of engineering! </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjw6sw8lq9DPSvdQXAeHVFkRugFKCqr1z86zVqtXdFwV_H-SsklC6NnKG4Ozn-YGzv4pQ7281RGv8vl9dM5q1HUZcXNiYZ46eNdcBdIndtgTIuY8SPfHrT8GqxduyBg8JtKAdlTBJmo_4/s2048/Tape+measure.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjw6sw8lq9DPSvdQXAeHVFkRugFKCqr1z86zVqtXdFwV_H-SsklC6NnKG4Ozn-YGzv4pQ7281RGv8vl9dM5q1HUZcXNiYZ46eNdcBdIndtgTIuY8SPfHrT8GqxduyBg8JtKAdlTBJmo_4/s320/Tape+measure.JPG" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A needlebook with a very Victorian rose on the one side, and Pusheen on the other:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-K8LLmvzqbGngoSal-IrVGslQlIhqqyvm9TESzx8-vUtPoQQrDHLy-Lv2sReDqjLj1FpkWaWziGLZ2cL1f4v2PTPT_7t1TS-5jXpr7W6urYxjQRkqPxmgTOnI28ROgn7vHOTjzZ6OhG0/s2048/Needlebook.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-K8LLmvzqbGngoSal-IrVGslQlIhqqyvm9TESzx8-vUtPoQQrDHLy-Lv2sReDqjLj1FpkWaWziGLZ2cL1f4v2PTPT_7t1TS-5jXpr7W6urYxjQRkqPxmgTOnI28ROgn7vHOTjzZ6OhG0/s320/Needlebook.JPG" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>And finally, the most adorable, needle felted Pusheen - <i>gosh I love that cat! </i></div><div><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPUg_JBbrSkFpv6WcF1khjpg3pLXFiDhyphenhyphenrLE4Ozu30jHMbIbpQXn7kcNOIZTvpS1jnjuTlAk67dVLoMnzwsdbeq8KCXKq-arpkcdWjnrwkujo5B3x_89rt28YMYs_N4n3v637H7F3wIjQ/s2048/Pusheen.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2047" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPUg_JBbrSkFpv6WcF1khjpg3pLXFiDhyphenhyphenrLE4Ozu30jHMbIbpQXn7kcNOIZTvpS1jnjuTlAk67dVLoMnzwsdbeq8KCXKq-arpkcdWjnrwkujo5B3x_89rt28YMYs_N4n3v637H7F3wIjQ/s320/Pusheen.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p>I'm just in awe of all the time, talents, and thought Kristen put into her solstice swap gift...I'm honored to be the recipient and to call her my friend - <b>thank you so much, Kristen! </b>❤️</p><blockquote cite="https://www.tiktok.com/@youngsewphisticate/video/6916603938762460421" class="tiktok-embed" data-video-id="6916603938762460421" style="max-width: 605px; min-width: 325px;"> </blockquote> <script async="" src="https://www.tiktok.com/embed.js"></script></div></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-38518142942938090952021-01-04T21:35:00.017-05:002021-01-04T21:39:49.893-05:00Year in Review: Goodbye 2020, Hello 2021!<p style="text-align: left;">We made it, everyone, 2020 is <i>over and done</i>, and here's to another trip around the sun!</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLFoq-btVFt_mco3gLLLv_vYl-6COdvKRJNlEs_SNhpcenrONZo0pyTzedNl31do39uvhlkcj8iiuPGS4pujRyqVWleoHMrpaMLAAl_kkjqCsocxtuVFLMQOxY13ZLzINGWpYhBbDwfqY/s1995/Happy+New+Year.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1424" data-original-width="1995" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLFoq-btVFt_mco3gLLLv_vYl-6COdvKRJNlEs_SNhpcenrONZo0pyTzedNl31do39uvhlkcj8iiuPGS4pujRyqVWleoHMrpaMLAAl_kkjqCsocxtuVFLMQOxY13ZLzINGWpYhBbDwfqY/w640-h456/Happy+New+Year.png" width="640" /></a></p><p>To say that the last year was difficult would be an understatement. Uncertainty is uncomfortable, frustrating, and even frightening; but our continued hopes, dreams, and the possibilities in the new year ahead are unstoppable! </p><p>There is no magic wand to free us from these trying times, (<i>believe me, I'd be the first to wave one if I could</i>), and, unfortunately, the turn of a calendar page may have little immediate effect on the state of the current pandemic. I write this not to discourage, but to encourage us to reflect - to admit to deep disappointment, feel sadness, and grieve - and to celebrate the victories, both big and small. More important than ever, in the upcoming year, let's set reasonable expectations, and be kind to ourselves and to others. My mantra for 2021: <i>expect nothing, appreciate everything. </i></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzuxkeLyqv6JB9yBP1a-EfQYDP5TxU5qW0lO8KfBISxS3-S_IsL490DudcsaMu8AtZLluURQtUXpvry5jLPWaDGQGW47H8TzgUznClyF2ARIDMh5AU7b2rbAPhzfzcZWKr0R6ajQYU6As/s2048/Blue+flowers.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1890" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzuxkeLyqv6JB9yBP1a-EfQYDP5TxU5qW0lO8KfBISxS3-S_IsL490DudcsaMu8AtZLluURQtUXpvry5jLPWaDGQGW47H8TzgUznClyF2ARIDMh5AU7b2rbAPhzfzcZWKr0R6ajQYU6As/w369-h400/Blue+flowers.JPG" width="369" /></a></p><p>Speaking of appreciation, I'm so grateful for the continued encouragement of my sewing, weaving, education, and living history adventures. To my friends, family, patrons, and all of you lovely followers on this blog, on the Facebook page, and on Instagram - <b>thank you! </b>It's only because of your generous support that I'm able to create this content, which brings me and, hopefully, others so much joy. </p><p>So to kick off the blogging for 2021, here's a look at last year's favorite memories:</p><p><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Year in Review: 2020 Highlights</h2><div><br /></div><div><b>An interview with the <i>National Geographic</i>!</b> </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRmSiDA1iDKC4cfRVDRL7pnIBfSA90R6I3ep8UqWn22KThnLjwWajtwIHxneqIj5_7P9Q4bkRIy9o-_fhCYoNoXSvZDy7gUeEvdVfY6Y6QOUaex6I6mhNwzK1PNkVHzViGnH7qU9kCH4/s1619/National+Geographic+-+Historic+Interpreters+Article+-+Anneliese+Meck.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1619" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRmSiDA1iDKC4cfRVDRL7pnIBfSA90R6I3ep8UqWn22KThnLjwWajtwIHxneqIj5_7P9Q4bkRIy9o-_fhCYoNoXSvZDy7gUeEvdVfY6Y6QOUaex6I6mhNwzK1PNkVHzViGnH7qU9kCH4/w640-h424/National+Geographic+-+Historic+Interpreters+Article+-+Anneliese+Meck.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Find the full article, here: "<a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/2020/09/historic-interpreters-changing-the-conversation-about-race/" target="">Historic Interpreters Share Their Sides of the Story</a>"</td></tr></tbody></table><p>This was an opportunity of a lifetime, and the greatest honor to be included with so many powerful voices, including Cheyney McKnight of <a href="http://www.notyourmommashistory.com/">Not Your Momma's History</a>. To tell the story - of their history, our history, American history - and to be a part of a more diverse and inclusive future at living history sites and museums. Many thanks to the journalists, Jennifer Barger and Heather Greenwood Davis, for their important work, and to my friend, Cheyney, for leading the path forward. </p><p>If you haven't already, read the article, here: "<a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/2020/09/historic-interpreters-changing-the-conversation-about-race/">Historic Interpreters Share Their Sides of the Story</a>" </p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b>Speaking at <span style="font-style: italic;">Costume On 2: Tailored, </span>an international online conference!</b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigRIa-q0QElFYa-cP_slFlEZED4cswbd7Ge78w7FBhDC0NIO8VvMnHRONe_brqEYF_opK-gekghV-M9epAX3P3Hr88LiY-bRyA3wKh48o19JjD6jDVzL6PtQ5grraNpZzMNzVC0msM5lE/s1252/Costume+On+Banner.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="704" data-original-width="1252" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigRIa-q0QElFYa-cP_slFlEZED4cswbd7Ge78w7FBhDC0NIO8VvMnHRONe_brqEYF_opK-gekghV-M9epAX3P3Hr88LiY-bRyA3wKh48o19JjD6jDVzL6PtQ5grraNpZzMNzVC0msM5lE/w640-h360/Costume+On+Banner.JPG" width="640" /></a></p><p>The biannual, international online conference, <i><a href="https://www.1886location.com/costumeon">Costume On</a></i>, connects costumers and historical fashion enthusiasts from all over the world for a weekend of virtually-hosted seminars and workshops. (Make sure to visit their website at: <a href="http://1886location.com">1886location.com</a> for upcoming conferences, master classes throughout the year, historical patterns, and more!)</p><p>During the Fall 2020 conference, I had the great privilege and pleasure of teaching two classes! I wrote a blog post about those classes, here: <a href="http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2020/09/online-conference-costume-on-2-tailored.html">Online Conference - Costume On 2: Tailored</a>. The first lecture presented Chinese-American history through the lens of the Civil War, giving background on early Chinese immigration, stories from both sides of the war, and post-war discrimination and lasting legacy. In fact, through this conference, thanks to several steps of connections, I was able to correspond with a long-time hero of mine, Irving Moy, author of <i>An American Journey</i>, living historian, and expert on Chinese-American participation in the Civil War. We've since kept in touch, and his continued encouragement and the wealth of information he's shared are truly invaluable. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0nhr3K0tkoCNzyh2AHvd_NHGlnuheDkjhCAdf-OeUNvVUQpm33G4rWDUAMGtcrLraGtb0ElyvEDkVag1PQdXcg1GHIfM3weVKSd-Gj9Zd3CKx5PyyazKp3RbQfD5KQdBU3X7tEl3WOV4/s1280/If+the+Coat+Fits+-+Promo+-+Costume+On+2020.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0nhr3K0tkoCNzyh2AHvd_NHGlnuheDkjhCAdf-OeUNvVUQpm33G4rWDUAMGtcrLraGtb0ElyvEDkVag1PQdXcg1GHIfM3weVKSd-Gj9Zd3CKx5PyyazKp3RbQfD5KQdBU3X7tEl3WOV4/w400-h225/If+the+Coat+Fits+-+Promo+-+Costume+On+2020.png" width="400" /></a></p><p>The second lecture was on Orientalism, defined by centuries of complex, cross-cultural borrowing, imitation, and appropriation, with a particular emphasis on the textiles, garments, and accessories that have shaped menswear from the late-16th through 19th centuries. I've become enamored with this extensive area of dress history, and it has endless possibilities for presentations (<i>so keep an eye out for more on this subject to come in 2021...</i>)</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikLidvxk-BcJolGclJSLxTKk24ScwIAw397Ta6lNAnYvaQw0N7TMmX10rpmaoN5PuPIfXV1gXQVnLNIOcA1ok3pSO2H4qdJQq71fYLWgQK-cCboLhS39FkXv0eusRaRlss4_cYXGLKpGE/s1280/Orientalism+-+Promo+-+Costume+On+2020.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikLidvxk-BcJolGclJSLxTKk24ScwIAw397Ta6lNAnYvaQw0N7TMmX10rpmaoN5PuPIfXV1gXQVnLNIOcA1ok3pSO2H4qdJQq71fYLWgQK-cCboLhS39FkXv0eusRaRlss4_cYXGLKpGE/w400-h225/Orientalism+-+Promo+-+Costume+On+2020.png" width="400" /></a></p><p style="text-align: left;">I learned so much, personally and professionally, about presenting through this debut into (online) public speaking, and I'm so grateful to Chantal Filson, the founder and dean of the conference, for the opportunity - thank you! </p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b>Launching a Patreon!</b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLjHpsvPUwq_Y17Nx36xpSXgnKj00wLhLl1q0BpaPRTEvXi_JV6ueCniC1NehDzLXeEiPkZAvt2YNN77Ew5oSTOwAlC9KQfZQ1p45O482kc5BhMQB0CfloNAwM3MWHZsHLyAy30Dg8PhM/s2000/Patreon+-+the+Sewphisticate.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="2000" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLjHpsvPUwq_Y17Nx36xpSXgnKj00wLhLl1q0BpaPRTEvXi_JV6ueCniC1NehDzLXeEiPkZAvt2YNN77Ew5oSTOwAlC9KQfZQ1p45O482kc5BhMQB0CfloNAwM3MWHZsHLyAy30Dg8PhM/w640-h384/Patreon+-+the+Sewphisticate.png" width="640" /></a></p><p style="text-align: left;">This was somewhat of a surprise endeavor this year, and never would have been possible without the support of my good friend, social media guru, and personal champion, Kristen. Launched during the summer quarantine, it's been amazing to connect with an online costuming community through zoom meetings, our monthly, "sip-and-sew" live chants, and other virtual events. </p><p style="text-align: left;">On <a href="https://www.patreon.com/sewphisticate">Patreon</a>, several membership levels or tiers allow patrons to directly assist individual artists and makers in their creative endeavors. In exchange, patrons unlock exclusive contents, live chats, personalized gifts, and more, funding the hopes and dreams of many creators, <i>including yours truly! </i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOlbLFel-iRaDQiwnLA7osk6k9BGZ9XE-o1rOq-LRUorznHlDMBx1p9Fzy5NCOhnbK43uToQwjkK_PR7gBSQeCFJ5OicOIjCIZ_DqyynQqs6cMJXKR7J-t00W00X9slDZSL-9Dwrdpsr4/s1328/Patreon+-+the+Sewphisticate.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="835" data-original-width="1328" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOlbLFel-iRaDQiwnLA7osk6k9BGZ9XE-o1rOq-LRUorznHlDMBx1p9Fzy5NCOhnbK43uToQwjkK_PR7gBSQeCFJ5OicOIjCIZ_DqyynQqs6cMJXKR7J-t00W00X9slDZSL-9Dwrdpsr4/w400-h251/Patreon+-+the+Sewphisticate.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;">In fact, I have four, lovely patrons to thank today! Their support and belief in me actively transforms current and future projects from dreams to reality. And I look forward to developing my Patreon throughout this upcoming year, and beyond! </p><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Completing my college thesis & dress project!</b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLk4iLvCGXP2C8JaO20sYEpMROYfhja6OK9BFZe4ljl9zHkGvceN0F2VkBqU-e3kDGn_5rqQyBem8X7-aR_sJzHE-PiX4w8mQ7w-O8_BkpON0PhM8mzr854md8nYZ65L_CV3ED-kDaDDc/s2048/Thesis+-+Wearing+History+-+Dress+Project.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLk4iLvCGXP2C8JaO20sYEpMROYfhja6OK9BFZe4ljl9zHkGvceN0F2VkBqU-e3kDGn_5rqQyBem8X7-aR_sJzHE-PiX4w8mQ7w-O8_BkpON0PhM8mzr854md8nYZ65L_CV3ED-kDaDDc/w480-h640/Thesis+-+Wearing+History+-+Dress+Project.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A model of a period-correct costume for a historical interpreter.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>After three semesters of research, writing, and sewing (<i>and additional complications during the pandemic</i>), my senior thesis - <i>Wearing History: The Value in Costuming Historical Interpreters at Living History Sites & Museums </i>- and the accompanying dress project (<i>depicted above</i>) are finished! <div><br /></div><div>In total, I wrote a 46-page research paper, exploring the potential in adequately-funded, period-accurate costuming programs for improving visitor engagement, staff performance, and institutional credibility and outreach. For the project component, I assembled a model of a period-correct costume for a historical interpreter, constructing everything from the undergarments, to the day dress, accessories, and outerwear. I also composed a series of appendixes to document the construction process, quantify the costs, and justify each design choice with descriptions from the chosen time period. All in all, handing the massive project in was a relief, and I'd love to publish it in some form in the future. </div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>I graduated summa cum laude! </b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-4A8R9AGFsRSZcWfIg8UJ_qwrOCpuvA5swqV0Bn8PHeO4DB0nPVcPNbG8XElsVYtocM3vl6_AKZsBd_-rHbwSBM7KrwwKriy7FVcfcGwm34I2DKu_Wkgpf62SVmq_mzfwby5ryJCxh_I/s3772/Graduation+%25281%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3772" data-original-width="2828" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-4A8R9AGFsRSZcWfIg8UJ_qwrOCpuvA5swqV0Bn8PHeO4DB0nPVcPNbG8XElsVYtocM3vl6_AKZsBd_-rHbwSBM7KrwwKriy7FVcfcGwm34I2DKu_Wkgpf62SVmq_mzfwby5ryJCxh_I/w480-h640/Graduation+%25281%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's official, I hold a Bachelor's of Integrated Studies (with two minors) from Kent State University!</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Somehow I managed to survive art school - with double concentrations in costume construction and textile arts. (The 4.0, however, comes at the cost of three years without sleep...there was the weekly all-nighter or two, late nights and weekends in the studios, and finals weeks we will never speak of again, #stilltramatized). Two decades as a career student are over, and onto the next chapter...living history museums here I come!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><p></p><p><b>Social Media Milestones</b></p><p>I try not to get caught up with the numbers game, but I did want to mention the social media milestones of 2020:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Over on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/youngsewphisticate/">Instagram @youngsewphisticate</a>, we reached an incredible 3000+ followers, and, per the tradition, here's our Top Nine:</li></ul><p></p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0xMadmoY7Nsq3JMp_JWuZljQNY3uBd6iyuvF4RMHvl7rU11SngdUyIM1DDLW2e1Bltoenqrej6yxJC1YYGij7aE5TS900bynfFq6krqqiY_sDpvyjNck5f-ArJznJjWMC5Ahcq7sX6xs/s1350/IG+Top+9+for+2020.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0xMadmoY7Nsq3JMp_JWuZljQNY3uBd6iyuvF4RMHvl7rU11SngdUyIM1DDLW2e1Bltoenqrej6yxJC1YYGij7aE5TS900bynfFq6krqqiY_sDpvyjNck5f-ArJznJjWMC5Ahcq7sX6xs/w320-h400/IG+Top+9+for+2020.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Our <a href="https://www.facebook.com/youngsewphisticate/">Facebook page</a> broke 500+ "likes" and followers. </li><li>On the blog, I managed to write 18 blog posts, which, though modest in number, is up from the previous year...we also rebranded as <i>The Sewphisticate</i>, a name which better reflects my growth not only as a seamstress, but as a textile artist, educator and living historian.</li></ul><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>What will 2021 bring?</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Since there's no telling when in-person events may resume, I'd like to draw your attention to the fabulous <a href="https://www.teelhouse.com/registration">Virtual Regency Retreat</a>, hosted by the Historic Joseph Teel House! (Registration is open until January 28th, with the virtual retreat running January 29th through the 31st) According to their website, the event will feature an entire weekend of guest speakers, performances, and other activities, including a <a href="https://www.teelhouse.com/fashionshow">virtual fashion show</a>, which I have the honor of being a participant:</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVPwhzZ6Ul17kLXMYwZMtsVkqsHFT29jCv8P_1Viv1UFXlCSrOnvUzVnQUNMDXKPywVldPcJTPiDannGkPlp-7yXK4hxmmDIEEdIOQ6Xh3iA_yz_Mz2lIfK2VnKNdrnvUuSJzc85V1I-c/s2048/Teel+House+-+Fashion+Show+%25281%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1907" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVPwhzZ6Ul17kLXMYwZMtsVkqsHFT29jCv8P_1Viv1UFXlCSrOnvUzVnQUNMDXKPywVldPcJTPiDannGkPlp-7yXK4hxmmDIEEdIOQ6Xh3iA_yz_Mz2lIfK2VnKNdrnvUuSJzc85V1I-c/w373-h400/Teel+House+-+Fashion+Show+%25281%2529.JPG" width="373" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Virtual fashion show at the Joseph Teel House - <br />Visit their <a href="https://www.teelhouse.com/fashionshow">website</a> to see all of the participants!<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><div>I'm also looking forward to more public speaking engagements in the future (<i>plans are already in the works!</i>), as well as continuing to build and maintain an online presence in the New Year. While I feel some uncertainty, there's also excitement for what's to come next...</div><div><div><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG0FYepbTPlUb3BYJDgTp48zhRYfinmlpnLwsV4wZ8RpYGAb9YWM14SaCTpGHr1MZRPqpNou7v1TS_-x_KxClBsGIgUiaOA-8K6vVTb9lz4rjYRBWwxtbIc4AZMx3yja1ewY8j2-QG1I0/s2048/Graduation+%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG0FYepbTPlUb3BYJDgTp48zhRYfinmlpnLwsV4wZ8RpYGAb9YWM14SaCTpGHr1MZRPqpNou7v1TS_-x_KxClBsGIgUiaOA-8K6vVTb9lz4rjYRBWwxtbIc4AZMx3yja1ewY8j2-QG1I0/w640-h480/Graduation+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"><b>Cheers 2021, and may we make every minute count!</b></p></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-506139376613904162020-10-21T11:00:00.002-04:002020-10-21T13:26:45.959-04:00Inside & Out: 1830s Striped Dress<p>Before dust starts collecting on this dress hung in the back of the costume closet, I thought I'd feature it one last time on the blog. This inside & out post completes the series on the red striped dress, detailing its construction and all of the fun, self-fabric trimmings. The completed project appears in two previous posts, including the official photoshoot: <a href="https://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2019/02/wake-heart-stir-soul-1830s-photoshoot.html">Wake the Heart & Stir the Soul - 1830s Photoshoot</a>, and was worn for the <a href="https://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2020/10/historical-fashion-program-1830s-get.html">Historical Fashion Program: 1830s Get Ready With Me</a> + 4 Antique Pelerines. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWjog9HuKV50a8M_qNOzyvK1AkumIKsDjTJ6wVNqoNhVVFakp7yavCoWbWHmwgIGCswwpOekmBr82NdxffRI36MWEJUc3m7DAGMKLOzVEupKjpnLR54-lp_vVhjyjJCHrQISwVygRsTYc/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+construction+%25281%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1639" data-original-width="2048" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWjog9HuKV50a8M_qNOzyvK1AkumIKsDjTJ6wVNqoNhVVFakp7yavCoWbWHmwgIGCswwpOekmBr82NdxffRI36MWEJUc3m7DAGMKLOzVEupKjpnLR54-lp_vVhjyjJCHrQISwVygRsTYc/w400-h320/1820s+striped+dress+-+construction+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside & Out: 1830s Striped Dress Construction<br /><i>Here are the completed bodice and skirt ready to be attached!</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /><b><u>Historical Inspiration</u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u><br /></u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">When designing my historical costumes, I first look to period sources, including fashion plates, paintings (and photographs when they become available), and extant examples from museum collections. The main inspiration for my 1830s striped dress was this favorite from the Snowshill Wade Costume Collection, via the National Trust. I've always admired the use of the roller print and playing with the direction of the stripes, as some are on the bias and others on the straight of grain. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4N3aKsURg8VP0OgIl4yoHpFUhygHioQ6RdUx1h8HKSLdWvqkWTn7aWl-lvHblkQoehgawFeOpaSZCRaA-HVMB6aF4OHBDdidRdx8pUbjEk6dEwZZLOqb7tBHX3oLulj_ecFSvAbhwauI/s450/Snowshill+Wade+Costume+Collection%252C+1825-1830.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="329" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4N3aKsURg8VP0OgIl4yoHpFUhygHioQ6RdUx1h8HKSLdWvqkWTn7aWl-lvHblkQoehgawFeOpaSZCRaA-HVMB6aF4OHBDdidRdx8pUbjEk6dEwZZLOqb7tBHX3oLulj_ecFSvAbhwauI/w293-h400/Snowshill+Wade+Costume+Collection%252C+1825-1830.jpg" width="293" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress, c.1825-30<br />Snowshill Wade Costume Collection<br />Source: <a href="http://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1349130">National Trust Collections (NT 1349130)</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Here's another example of bias cut trim on the skirt from a November 1827 issue of <i>Ackermann's Repository</i> (Series no. 3, volume 10):<div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNC3PK7u7gZRdfxfrlZz455FyvhThW4xgyIJwehqNH9t5aRMb1axeqJ18svAt9F5NCjSlZ6aASgtPfb4Rr0vze2pBpc8op9h9_BGtrZq8O_GWZZ2iIk-g4uk3x4jwDqrpcWCm9-HzjV6g/s1500/Ser3+v10+1827+Ackermann%2527s+fashion+plate+27+-+Morning+Dress.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="919" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNC3PK7u7gZRdfxfrlZz455FyvhThW4xgyIJwehqNH9t5aRMb1axeqJ18svAt9F5NCjSlZ6aASgtPfb4Rr0vze2pBpc8op9h9_BGtrZq8O_GWZZ2iIk-g4uk3x4jwDqrpcWCm9-HzjV6g/w245-h400/Ser3+v10+1827+Ackermann%2527s+fashion+plate+27+-+Morning+Dress.jpg" width="245" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning Dress from Ackermann's Repository, November 1827.<br />(Source: "Regency Era Fashions," <a href="http://www.ekduncan.com/2011/09/regency-era-fashions-ackermanns_25.html">EKDuncan and My Fanciful Muse</a>)</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Rather than gathering the front of the bodice, I wanted to make use of the bias again and create this period chevron effect. Here's an example from the Susan Greene Collection that I liked, notice how strategically changing the direction of the stripes on the belt creates a lovely, decorative effect.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1151" data-original-width="564" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0gC7YT4JA4bnh3vc7cNKnAyIR-Bh2w_bQpNEC6sQgIHuLP1nBybDICNGN9pjFIKdqRz9mXxW0JBlMGrvsrW0dvP4r3_jf4eEXRLRrwOW1LYenFkqiEXHPsOi9s__I8spGggtC8Awto8s/w196-h400/31a7249777942c482543b9a63990b4f3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="196" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress with gigot sleeves, c.1825-1830.<br />Susan Greene Costume Collection.<br />(Source: image via <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/404409241515118094/">pinterest</a>)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><b><u>Construction Details</u></b></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">The journey from design and sourcing the fabric to making and finally finishing the dress was a long, complicated one. In fact, it languished incomplete in the stash for so long, that the initial bodice no longer fit, and required the assistance of my very talented, seamstress friend, Kaela, to refit the shoulders and back. (My guess is that my original pattern did not account for the weight and pull of the sleeves, so the next time I make an 1830s dress, I definitely won't skip the mockup <i>with</i> a sleeve over the proper supports.) Anyways, fitting issues aside, the dress was eventually completed, and I'm really happy with some of the construction techniques and design details that I'll highlight below:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">First, a look at the front of the bodice from the outside. The front features the period bateau or boat neckline often seen in daywear, and is finished with a narrow, piped facing. The "chevron" effect is created by cutting each side on the bias and joining them at the center with piping at the seam (piping serves both a decorative and functional purpose by ensuring the sides won't stretch and stabilizing the seam). Two darts on each side provide fitting, and the waistline is finished with a band cut on the straight of grain. </div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizJfBPFnba-jihjGRLjbzwzmM7BzuXQ7dNYKhgik575ydkP9e1RO8EcZX15e4x4zUudWOz5YA5AFs6O4T0i3nnI82K9wwh_NFBcoSoHK-d3PtqwfK3JBGpddnff1mr82Abb1-RgAp3khs/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+bodice+front+%25281%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizJfBPFnba-jihjGRLjbzwzmM7BzuXQ7dNYKhgik575ydkP9e1RO8EcZX15e4x4zUudWOz5YA5AFs6O4T0i3nnI82K9wwh_NFBcoSoHK-d3PtqwfK3JBGpddnff1mr82Abb1-RgAp3khs/w400-h300/1820s+striped+dress+-+bodice+front+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front view of the bodice from the outside.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here's a close up of the center front, notice how the darts distort the print further creating an illusion of a smaller waist. I love the play between the directions on the bodice, waistband, and skirt! </div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha0GK0apeR3Upol9WAtIJ_2bPoIrXL72Hmk3FpbR6e8xeox7-C81KrpEECBqXc6-Da1ipkCWAq_rqMKapbdUak4T22Td0vqf7w_dsgiXxQlMWLOBNUQ22XdIuSTW4wmZpEywMsZedseUA/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+bodice+front+%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha0GK0apeR3Upol9WAtIJ_2bPoIrXL72Hmk3FpbR6e8xeox7-C81KrpEECBqXc6-Da1ipkCWAq_rqMKapbdUak4T22Td0vqf7w_dsgiXxQlMWLOBNUQ22XdIuSTW4wmZpEywMsZedseUA/w400-h400/1820s+striped+dress+-+bodice+front+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The chevron effect is created by cutting two, front sides on the bias and joining them at the center front.<br />Even the piping in the seam is pattern matched - <i>it's the little details that make me happy!</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br />And the same view, from the inside showing the center seam, darts, and finishing with both a piped facing at the neckline and folded waistband. Neat and tidy interiors also make me happy! </div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnEcBlpfWjzbb2LSOIAgiN8Y6UX-kaEReaHV3lNL9ywIcGpGamxB1XFjgH7yA9hehm3tpTVOHc2oxPsemMVD2GfPjwpDcLQq31BPJYq-t7uIzS_WxclAvhEQwtGXRCc6454XnCNns0uo0/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+bodice+front+%25283%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2047" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnEcBlpfWjzbb2LSOIAgiN8Y6UX-kaEReaHV3lNL9ywIcGpGamxB1XFjgH7yA9hehm3tpTVOHc2oxPsemMVD2GfPjwpDcLQq31BPJYq-t7uIzS_WxclAvhEQwtGXRCc6454XnCNns0uo0/w400-h400/1820s+striped+dress+-+bodice+front+%25283%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the front bodice from the inside.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />The dress closes in the back with each side constructed in the same way - two pieces with a curved seam and turned under facing. It's attached to the front at the shoulder, with piping at both seams and armscyes for added stability. Seven metal hooks - five down the back and two on the waistband - with corresponding thread eyes were used for closures. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigwumKyrp427FU1iKItX5E5vPZilGZEMvSj-yJ7vGZqCp4eh_zA-hKLLGJWoEbDlDR9MtEjC_mD34SdhE75oAjUX1cb8lmwPSQYcWTYk-gMV6uJy1gv01q7NXWnayc3bMNoEu4GKzdU5s/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+bodice+back+%25281%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigwumKyrp427FU1iKItX5E5vPZilGZEMvSj-yJ7vGZqCp4eh_zA-hKLLGJWoEbDlDR9MtEjC_mD34SdhE75oAjUX1cb8lmwPSQYcWTYk-gMV6uJy1gv01q7NXWnayc3bMNoEu4GKzdU5s/w400-h300/1820s+striped+dress+-+bodice+back+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view of the bodice from the outside.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwX6LTuEBez0YmOhsL7Dw7Kvo8A2rGrSqXX3C2mWrW9VsngFI9W7EKxzPDfMbUCbVi7rpX7fs2Y96V00E5BciUwASV2SZvJvlF8JNjTA_rO1y3mkWyLeu1f1a3XTHGHbo-PKmOkwbt5Ek/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+bodice+back+%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwX6LTuEBez0YmOhsL7Dw7Kvo8A2rGrSqXX3C2mWrW9VsngFI9W7EKxzPDfMbUCbVi7rpX7fs2Y96V00E5BciUwASV2SZvJvlF8JNjTA_rO1y3mkWyLeu1f1a3XTHGHbo-PKmOkwbt5Ek/w400-h400/1820s+striped+dress+-+bodice+back+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view of the bodice from the inside.<br />Seven metal hooks and thread eyes serve as closures.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-PkpEpfZxDRFgzIWW8kLkf5ZO6sCYyoCzeGTkgVJwEdzpxUUqnUKIxNgKxwrRn7TkSaOT6x2KUPTO_esc4RskkQD6amxKthq4nZdqzxqCSnv5g6_82tXYA5eFQ2zQbSb9nCBWc1STh4w/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+bodice+back+%25283%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-PkpEpfZxDRFgzIWW8kLkf5ZO6sCYyoCzeGTkgVJwEdzpxUUqnUKIxNgKxwrRn7TkSaOT6x2KUPTO_esc4RskkQD6amxKthq4nZdqzxqCSnv5g6_82tXYA5eFQ2zQbSb9nCBWc1STh4w/w400-h400/1820s+striped+dress+-+bodice+back+%25283%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the piping in the shoulder seam, armscye, center front seam, and neckline facing. <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />If I haven't already mentioned it, I like neatly finished interiors. Modern garments tend to use a technique called "bag lining," where the fashion fabric and lining are assembled individually and then stitched together afterwards. Period garments, however, tend to be flat lined - that is treating the fashion fabric and lining as one. (Here my fashion fabric is the red stripe, and the lining is cotton muslin). I prefer flat lining (<i>because it's faster!</i>), and if the raw edges start to ravel, they can be overcast by hand, pinked, or even overlocked using a modern serger. </div><div><br /></div><div>Another detail worth mentioning is how the sleeve supports are attached. As seen in period examples, mine are simply tied in place at the armsyces using cotton tapes. This makes them somewhat adjustable as they can be raised or lowered to sit correctly off the shoulder. It's also a convenient solution for storage and reuse with other dresses! </div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjckJeeGaDE037Hi0Pv-U3ms3WLyeB97Z9f5UZaXT_z0YxJVhTCbCfCYyRRQiNEnmC7ygdYvSSkDGUWNhR_LrGKt4qyHrAY_w7jIXeq8AOQBROKx87FMaoEbcoCAhEyfR0hwDUOBuf-qiU/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+bodice+inside.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1535" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjckJeeGaDE037Hi0Pv-U3ms3WLyeB97Z9f5UZaXT_z0YxJVhTCbCfCYyRRQiNEnmC7ygdYvSSkDGUWNhR_LrGKt4qyHrAY_w7jIXeq8AOQBROKx87FMaoEbcoCAhEyfR0hwDUOBuf-qiU/w400-h300/1820s+striped+dress+-+bodice+inside.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interior view of the bodice.<br />Cotton tape ties hold the sleeve supports in place.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Once the bodice was assembled, it was time to shift the focus onto the sleeves! The side seams were finished with piping, and the wrists with a narrow piped facing. <i>Basically, in the 1830s, if there was seam, they piped it! </i>I also echoed the trim of the skirt, applying both a bias cut and horizontal band at the wrists. Unfortunately, I think these details tend to get lost in the business of the print when worn...but here's a picture to prove they're there:</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRLmTo4EcLWT6b2sPWkD73IK46FM6AhyxD8GghfdYkOtZeOvmjIATnoBBN0y_AvDyqb3eczMyYCTGsYIGI4D1LK3Kytc1gZ18ZjX_Xwakl8gN4O1D-ZAkAaTVLIew5Cy55iVXwYca_4TU/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+sleeves.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRLmTo4EcLWT6b2sPWkD73IK46FM6AhyxD8GghfdYkOtZeOvmjIATnoBBN0y_AvDyqb3eczMyYCTGsYIGI4D1LK3Kytc1gZ18ZjX_Xwakl8gN4O1D-ZAkAaTVLIew5Cy55iVXwYca_4TU/w400-h400/1820s+striped+dress+-+sleeves.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the sleeve hems - notice the piping along the side seams, piped wrist facings,<br />and both bias cut and horizontal bands of trim.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Moving along to the skirt, after some debate, I ended up pleating the front panels into large, double-stacked box pleats (which were not fun to stitch through), and gauging the back panels. I really liked the effect this had, both in playing with the print at the front, and they way it distributed all of the fullness. The skirt is balanced so that the back is longer than the front (for an even hem over the skirt supports and petticoats), and is finished with a contrasting hem facing. </div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo8DtOJa4LZe5gzph_KvGKLcgK90e2ENqQPy1dgIjDSD-i2ka0eDSJ2At31NNDpXnZhyphenhyphenR_DejxCvEp3z5akzdqjg93LD8NEu7mTjsDd7hh8_DeNTYOEs1b4nSzEMZZBkEbyqqisY7DSNs/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+skirt+%25281%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo8DtOJa4LZe5gzph_KvGKLcgK90e2ENqQPy1dgIjDSD-i2ka0eDSJ2At31NNDpXnZhyphenhyphenR_DejxCvEp3z5akzdqjg93LD8NEu7mTjsDd7hh8_DeNTYOEs1b4nSzEMZZBkEbyqqisY7DSNs/w400-h400/1820s+striped+dress+-+skirt+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skirt detail featuring double-stacked box pleats in the front and gauging in the back.<br />Tiny whip stitches secure the skirt to the bodice waistband.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Making skirt trim! To save time, I did use a machine to construct the trim, stacking bands of bias-cut strips to those following the horizontal stripe, which were cut on the grain. Once these were assembled and pressed, I used a machine to stitch the upper edge to the skirt hem following my 1/2" allowance as marked in pencil. The trim was then pressed down and top stitched by hand using tiny running stitches. Of course, in the period, every stitch would have been done by hand; however, in my historical garments, I use a combination of machine and hand stitching. Any and all stitching that might be visible from the outside (as well as techniques that are just not possible by machine like gauging and attaching a skirt) are done by hand. Though, I will use a machine for convenience and time saving on interior seams or, again, details that won't be visible from the outside. </div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCOh1Lp0nHV61u5bZINrK_zCNuea-tVQI9PqLNqJBHO1VPy6qT3zsGs_kipN_TbeQMXrwriGjtUEGolTfuBRVuX_y7tcX-B1MI5qL5ysmJdQUU_4kYjXVrQX2Eq4hZfl7xN41yT5znv_Y/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+bias+trim+hem+%25281%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCOh1Lp0nHV61u5bZINrK_zCNuea-tVQI9PqLNqJBHO1VPy6qT3zsGs_kipN_TbeQMXrwriGjtUEGolTfuBRVuX_y7tcX-B1MI5qL5ysmJdQUU_4kYjXVrQX2Eq4hZfl7xN41yT5znv_Y/w400-h300/1820s+striped+dress+-+bias+trim+hem+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Assembling the skirt trim.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Dh86bjoVRaKVFq1Gg8UafhwNAPGQWGWXL32lLDN7Tx1Up-SpiR3C6qyqrklgTN-iatY45BXp6RWokvrm22Wt7ac8b8Sf-DuGtSiC2QXDtbhOVbw7fvtFsg4xcZP05KZmwTn2_eI0ngA/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+bias+trim+hem+%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Dh86bjoVRaKVFq1Gg8UafhwNAPGQWGWXL32lLDN7Tx1Up-SpiR3C6qyqrklgTN-iatY45BXp6RWokvrm22Wt7ac8b8Sf-DuGtSiC2QXDtbhOVbw7fvtFsg4xcZP05KZmwTn2_eI0ngA/w400-h300/1820s+striped+dress+-+bias+trim+hem+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Attaching the top edge of the trim by machine to save time.<br />The lower edge was pressed under a 1/2" and top stitched by hand using tiny running stitches.<br /><i>When constructing my personal historical costumes, I do use a combination of machine and hand stitching -<br />it's just faster for me to machine interior seams, though any and all stitching <br />that could be visible on the outside is done exclusively by hand.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtsSeRq1w-qm3cOZTYbLRw3S_ncJMRj8wt2g32pG2Had4NJ43znm2oK_hVtz16rnlZMz3h1w3o283hcfiPPvAUZiJTbMoZQ-DuL4HJdjtTWKas9S16JBAOSmEvC3vgEb_R8Qk0I__wGnQ/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+bias+trim+hem+%25283%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtsSeRq1w-qm3cOZTYbLRw3S_ncJMRj8wt2g32pG2Had4NJ43znm2oK_hVtz16rnlZMz3h1w3o283hcfiPPvAUZiJTbMoZQ-DuL4HJdjtTWKas9S16JBAOSmEvC3vgEb_R8Qk0I__wGnQ/w400-h300/1820s+striped+dress+-+bias+trim+hem+%25283%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The finished skirt trim.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXQKnNIemDjfxOJ0q29ySrTL-MPbMW7PwiXKeegFpltRN4yXYMeDOTTo5-w3gHJvynytQU8LEz82ZGudysJRHdrYJC0Wa1wbeCWl6D0ukgmhSaDVQvKNZ_AyHjwvNzKKTnnw_z2adiq5s/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+bias+trim+hem+%25284%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXQKnNIemDjfxOJ0q29ySrTL-MPbMW7PwiXKeegFpltRN4yXYMeDOTTo5-w3gHJvynytQU8LEz82ZGudysJRHdrYJC0Wa1wbeCWl6D0ukgmhSaDVQvKNZ_AyHjwvNzKKTnnw_z2adiq5s/w400-h400/1820s+striped+dress+-+bias+trim+hem+%25284%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Contrasting hem facing.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />And I think that's it as far as construction notes - <i>if I missed anything or if you have questions, feel free to write them in the comments below!</i></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div>Since this is an inside & out post, I'll include a picture of the new chemise & drawers set I made specifically for the second wearing, which was for that historical get-ready-with-me program. I won't go into the details of all of the layers (<i>as there's a whole video on getting dressed in the 1830s in the last post</i>), but for my own sewing documentation purposes, these were the new pieces:</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbV5w_KzugF_9BrCkOIEYxWBp6fMRTojZQl693365oYhToq2rZ67N2IkAsBZaBEZBO7chZ6CTT5QXwYGXt1CjctOtuJbPkVoLW58XzZMG6cL1uOOyYS05gaz8gd3d7Z9gxuFhB8NaD80k/s1179/chemise.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1179" data-original-width="1008" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbV5w_KzugF_9BrCkOIEYxWBp6fMRTojZQl693365oYhToq2rZ67N2IkAsBZaBEZBO7chZ6CTT5QXwYGXt1CjctOtuJbPkVoLW58XzZMG6cL1uOOyYS05gaz8gd3d7Z9gxuFhB8NaD80k/w343-h400/chemise.jpg" width="343" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the true spirit of inside & out...<br />New chemise & drawers <i>+ my favorite boots!</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u>Completed Project Pictures</u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here's a look at the finished striped dress worn over the proper undergarments. I think it's pretty even without all of the extra accessories. The self-fabric trim and directional print seems to provide enough contrast to keep visual interest. Though, if you're interested in seeing the entire outfit with all of the finishing touches, do check out the official photoshoot: <a href="https://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2019/02/wake-heart-stir-soul-1830s-photoshoot.html">Wake the Heart & Stir the Soul - 1830s Photoshoot</a>, and the <a href="https://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2020/10/historical-fashion-program-1830s-get.html">Historical Fashion Program: 1830s Get Ready With Me</a> posts. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_YLWOB1RkRq-OIAVW3StovkWcSHpuQ6N2pb_RJ3CxO5P2EJGlx9CIYHC3l4GsMQ-VOBAHB1ga300xShkz2l4xX-O2aa2yc90fMquDzdCPyGMehpiIerHoPLSxvoTFmuJUZQSoyyGblC0/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+front.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_YLWOB1RkRq-OIAVW3StovkWcSHpuQ6N2pb_RJ3CxO5P2EJGlx9CIYHC3l4GsMQ-VOBAHB1ga300xShkz2l4xX-O2aa2yc90fMquDzdCPyGMehpiIerHoPLSxvoTFmuJUZQSoyyGblC0/w480-h640/1820s+striped+dress+-+front.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUgPHyO5n548HOjz-0m_M8aQf_IwsPuhzzJ6oxRf5_m3bB6pP0EGNvwFybBoL4m_xu1JWEDwiwFuuFABdInmO6E_4SdiuhObeha9jfVFjUHKdomvSul2dDk6oeaiKUNW2KL7Q0hsULJWk/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+back.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1535" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUgPHyO5n548HOjz-0m_M8aQf_IwsPuhzzJ6oxRf5_m3bB6pP0EGNvwFybBoL4m_xu1JWEDwiwFuuFABdInmO6E_4SdiuhObeha9jfVFjUHKdomvSul2dDk6oeaiKUNW2KL7Q0hsULJWk/w480-h640/1820s+striped+dress+-+back.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Fully accessorized & seated in the front parlor at the Foster-Tufts House: </div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAKAHu-K6flRRJZ98_5naQ-As90MysAYAJzypAWOXx-JvZM8Su87x_0nj_gBAiS45tV3ub79Bw6t-v0M_iqPUqNdEScuaLzs7MBLq_vtRcJkCTFzcy_oQghxfpkjV7Gg6VNA6SHT88QOU/s2048/1820s+striped+dress+-+seated.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAKAHu-K6flRRJZ98_5naQ-As90MysAYAJzypAWOXx-JvZM8Su87x_0nj_gBAiS45tV3ub79Bw6t-v0M_iqPUqNdEScuaLzs7MBLq_vtRcJkCTFzcy_oQghxfpkjV7Gg6VNA6SHT88QOU/w480-h640/1820s+striped+dress+-+seated.jpg" width="480" /></a></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Did you like what you saw here, and want to see more costume construction posts like this in the future? Consider supporting us over on Patreon, and you'll also unlock exclusive contents like bonus blog posts, live chats, and more! Follow @youngsewphisticate on Facebook & Instagram.</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><b>As always, thank you for reading & special thanks to our generous patrons!</b></div></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-34045066190201978832020-10-18T11:00:00.001-04:002020-10-18T11:00:07.286-04:00Historical Fashion Program: 1830s Get Ready With Me + 4 Antique Pelerines<p>In today's post, I'll be revisiting a past fashion program that I collaborated on with Brandon Brooks, curator at the <a href="https://www.gcv.org/explore/gallery/">John L. Wehle Gallery</a>, as well as sharing pictures of four antique pelerines from the early-mid 19th century. The first pelerine was featured in the "Get Ready With Me" program and is from the Susan Greene Costume Collection. The other three are from Point Park University's Costume Collection. All together, I thought the costume program and extant garments would make for a great pairing and interesting blog post - <i>hope you enjoy! </i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjzLy68DoxKJriTC5vi_63E4e_3UYqH_oq80i_aFnVl4SDCyCSPVEFEsaNGN2UTkjkZPMJvZ4az897A3uoG8vvpnrXmAT5tPdMMUJZPx6bx7slZ06q-izcgJlJ9raetNJBT29__4PddIE/s2048/1830s+Mirror.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2047" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjzLy68DoxKJriTC5vi_63E4e_3UYqH_oq80i_aFnVl4SDCyCSPVEFEsaNGN2UTkjkZPMJvZ4az897A3uoG8vvpnrXmAT5tPdMMUJZPx6bx7slZ06q-izcgJlJ9raetNJBT29__4PddIE/w400-h400/1830s+Mirror.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><p>It's no secret that I <i>love</i> historical fashion - the researching, recreating, and wearing of past clothing - and I jump at any chance to share this passion with the public. In the last five years, I've come to develop an array of historical fashion programs for all ages - from a "fashion fun" summer camp, to themed public talks, a walking tour, and even a fashion show. (If you're interested in reading more about some of those, check out these previous posts: <a href="https://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2018/07/presenting-on-fashion-underwear-under.html" target="_blank">Presenting on Fashion: "The Underwear Under There"</a> and <a href="https://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2018/06/fashion-show-at-bement-billings.html" target="_blank">Fashion Show at the Bement-Billings Farmstead Museum</a>). </p><p>I'm building quite the library of notes from these, and I have <i>so</i> many ideas for other presentations! It's my dream to continue in this style of education and outreach, and expand upon these offerings. I see historical fashion and similar "dressing a lady" programs appealing to public schools, historic houses and societies, living history museums, libraries, and other community centers looking for an educational, yet entertaining and interactive presentation. I have the passion, and now the wardrobe, so I just need to find an audience and outlet...(<i>So if you're looking, or know of a group that would be interested, feel free to email me at anneliesemeck@gmail.com ;) I also plan on getting my professional website up and running soon, so be on the look out for that too.</i>)</p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Anyways, back to our current presentation topic:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><p><b><u>Part I - Historical Fashion Program: Getting Dressed in the 1830s</u></b> </p>The historical "Get Ready With Me" was just a whole lot of fun! I was invited by Brandon, now curator at the John L. Wehle Gallery, to collaborate again on one of his 2019 Summer Gatherings. After hearing the idea, it was, of course, an immediate and enthusiastic "yes!" from me. <div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi60XrZ3AOAiofEl4Fqp3hxfERQGMOJHwrHUY26YZM7GerX9fwY-S_gzbAjEECY6OyfasNhY9MFN3WvQ6ee5aMVnv4nsL5enPljv3hxuCEE6EnVztCXBbdtTDcybezPy27chTI81npiWl4/s2048/TableDisplay+%25281%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi60XrZ3AOAiofEl4Fqp3hxfERQGMOJHwrHUY26YZM7GerX9fwY-S_gzbAjEECY6OyfasNhY9MFN3WvQ6ee5aMVnv4nsL5enPljv3hxuCEE6EnVztCXBbdtTDcybezPy27chTI81npiWl4/w640-h480/TableDisplay+%25281%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Table display for the "Getting Dressed in the 1830s" Program, <br />featuring extant garments from the Susan Greene Costume Collection.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Since I had some time, I was able to put together a few things, including making a new chemise and set of hair ringlets for the presentation. Brandon pulled together an amazing display table of extant examples from the Susan Greene Costume Collection (<i>pictured above</i>), including all of the undergarments, dresses, outerwear, and accessories that a fashionable lady of the 1830s would have worn. These items were presented alongside the "get ready with me," which was literally me getting dressed in my reproduction clothing. </div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWrluCPwGyF8ibwg7vWbiYVHOhD-NBafn9-cYegFskSvLffHML1-KmcQQXJy1PcOmYj_Rgi2oyUzabbJlzRxr3hsFNJ3wcq-1e3zDbCJYCESEQSKTpNCuYwtgjVFceR117zZABxa4MUJc/s2048/TableDisplay+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWrluCPwGyF8ibwg7vWbiYVHOhD-NBafn9-cYegFskSvLffHML1-KmcQQXJy1PcOmYj_Rgi2oyUzabbJlzRxr3hsFNJ3wcq-1e3zDbCJYCESEQSKTpNCuYwtgjVFceR117zZABxa4MUJc/w640-h426/TableDisplay+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of some of the items on the display table - <br />including (<i>left to right</i>) an 1830s sleeve plumper, slippers, reticules, false ringlets and cap.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><div>I thought this was a great format, showing both layer by layer what would have been worn (<i>and is still by the historical interpreters in the village</i>) along with original examples from the period. Visitors often ask what's under the costumes, or simply see items mounted in display cases - and this provided an opportunity to go beyond the glass barriers, and get up close and personal with fashion history. And I think both our morning and afternoon audiences appreciated what they saw. </div><div><br /></div><div>Making the costume collection more accessible, relatable, and enjoyable for the public are really central to Brandon's programs and vision. He's an incredibly knowledgeable and passionate curator, and it's always a great privilege and pleasure to get to work with him. (He also has an Instagram account @l_aspect_ancien, where he posts daily images from the costume collection, as well as exhibit related and other, personal sewing projects - <i>so go follow him there!</i>)</div><div><br /></div></div><div><div><br /></div><div>The afternoon session was live streamed on the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/watch/live/?v=906527539680175">Genesee Country Village & Museum Facebook Page</a>, and is still accessible there, if you're interested in viewing the presentation. I'll also embed the video below, so you can also watch it here:</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="true" allowtransparency="true" frameborder="0" height="476" scrolling="no" src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/video.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FGCVMuseum%2Fvideos%2F906527539680175%2F&show_text=0&width=267" style="border: none; overflow: hidden;" width="267"></iframe></div><div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><div>Towards the end of the video, Brandon briefly and very carefully draped a gorgeous, antique pelerine with whitework embroidery over my shoulders. The result was perfectly period - though the original wearer and I had different measurements, the pelerine visually broadened my shoulders and back, really emphasizing the fashionable silhouette. (<i>And making me want a pretty pelerine of my own!</i>)</div><div><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: left;">The following pictures were taken by Brandon and shared via Instagram @l_aspect_ancien. The illusion is most noticeable in the back view:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8247W9MfRXWDAaEEQm-JLEvpPYkwgY5bXjLS1Q7qgZTuUADujjI9HgzcWVshYLKvawoYi4vs31CAilC4v1BYttRs_kZv9hi5s15iHBPts7QT0GTaTWL9ywKtOLKOokUruxexFOt9dPrE/s626/Pelerine-front.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="626" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8247W9MfRXWDAaEEQm-JLEvpPYkwgY5bXjLS1Q7qgZTuUADujjI9HgzcWVshYLKvawoYi4vs31CAilC4v1BYttRs_kZv9hi5s15iHBPts7QT0GTaTWL9ywKtOLKOokUruxexFOt9dPrE/w400-h400/Pelerine-front.PNG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF50j1wokYKh_y63R5m-asaVi7hjhEG17J0Gew-Q1VAXLPkJXQotYPldBggMvR5nUWTDrnRSE9849TG4DYLJEW3U2Vwf05SMt-fm2fberEqm-4IXSgfjwwclmhn_L-7RXfX1wts0xYBMc/s634/Pelerine-back.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="634" data-original-width="634" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF50j1wokYKh_y63R5m-asaVi7hjhEG17J0Gew-Q1VAXLPkJXQotYPldBggMvR5nUWTDrnRSE9849TG4DYLJEW3U2Vwf05SMt-fm2fberEqm-4IXSgfjwwclmhn_L-7RXfX1wts0xYBMc/w400-h400/Pelerine-back.PNG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u>Part II - Extant Garments: Antique Pelerines</u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u><br /></u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Since I was already going to feature the one pelerine (<i>above</i>), I thought it would appropriate to include a few more, similar accessories. Note: the following images of extant pelerines may be shared and saved for educational and person reference, <b><i>only</i></b>, and <i><b>must</b></i> include the appropriate credit to either the "Susan Greene Costume Collection" or the "Point Park University Costume Collection" as noted. [Click on the images to enlarge]</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Pelerine 1</b>: Fine cotton pelerine with whitework embroidery, c.1820s-30s, from the Susan Greene Costume Collection.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Between the morning and afternoon presentations, I was given permission to the study this pelerine. While I was photographing, I also took detailed measurements and traced a paper pattern for the upper and lower collars and lappets (which is currently in a different state right now, otherwise I'd include that in this post). I hope to someday reproduce it, though I'm not sure about all of that hand embroidery! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhibNY5zzqi13Rk-cOdsCPSYZSdn15BBDX8-fVJMvr60Kt5sZhfaRIhyqe-Z41HWYZDSOK2OJf2UTk9PgRzu-P3czo9PycXJwDKB242y8DaovKtYFcEVghYRfVx5JCg2wuW2lJ5VxxYhW0/s2048/Pelerine-original+%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhibNY5zzqi13Rk-cOdsCPSYZSdn15BBDX8-fVJMvr60Kt5sZhfaRIhyqe-Z41HWYZDSOK2OJf2UTk9PgRzu-P3czo9PycXJwDKB242y8DaovKtYFcEVghYRfVx5JCg2wuW2lJ5VxxYhW0/w640-h480/Pelerine-original+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cotton pelerine with whitework embroidery, c.1820s-30s.<br />Susan Greene Costume Collection.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6jZptEkzn39rAspPWopbj-52SC80HzYnFXJRnIjdospsBCuLJLiZfs3qOXjM0gJs_oVnEnf1a8XqrX0q8T5BpAcuo5zy5yhxPVmteHwpKeXaEWmJXWSSzRh3I8Q-I8l7Fw9fQW13wgrA/s2048/Pelerine-original+%25281%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6jZptEkzn39rAspPWopbj-52SC80HzYnFXJRnIjdospsBCuLJLiZfs3qOXjM0gJs_oVnEnf1a8XqrX0q8T5BpAcuo5zy5yhxPVmteHwpKeXaEWmJXWSSzRh3I8Q-I8l7Fw9fQW13wgrA/w400-h300/Pelerine-original+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the embroidery on the upper collar.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxfNuIV-rS1lhitftUv1oUnPwflE_pKxOf7aQT_ekGc62ILQ3C7X07cLE7dgzceO942cdD5tcapyymfuVnvnZD3fnLIR7e4Ocenvx01XsS7zRafvb1owoiUXSDaJRG6mlpmK2bZf2p0Yw/s1076/Pelerine-side.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1076" data-original-width="1076" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxfNuIV-rS1lhitftUv1oUnPwflE_pKxOf7aQT_ekGc62ILQ3C7X07cLE7dgzceO942cdD5tcapyymfuVnvnZD3fnLIR7e4Ocenvx01XsS7zRafvb1owoiUXSDaJRG6mlpmK2bZf2p0Yw/w400-h400/Pelerine-side.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the embroidery on the lower cape.<br />(Image by Brandon, via Instagram @l_aspect_ancien)<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The next three extant examples are from the Point Park University Collection. When I was a student there, I was given permission to study and photograph pieces from the university's collection, (more details here: <a href="https://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2017/08/extant-garment-1860s-sheer-dress.html" target="_blank">project background</a>). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Pelerine 2: </b>Square collar of cotton with whitework embroidery, c.1820s-30s. Like the first example, this features wide upper and lower collars with a small, floral motif and scalloped edges. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpyprzd7c8mRKrv6NFkaGrvufKQhnYaQEP1fabaLgSfvewkyB3plbf7WuQdH3kS-_9Mhc9IPpbI9U3XLYVXIghjJmwrukESLrz2WzKHGIQ6c4SqV-EbHiOZrYsSw9FUQp4PIk35HJPRSI/s2048/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+2+%25283%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpyprzd7c8mRKrv6NFkaGrvufKQhnYaQEP1fabaLgSfvewkyB3plbf7WuQdH3kS-_9Mhc9IPpbI9U3XLYVXIghjJmwrukESLrz2WzKHGIQ6c4SqV-EbHiOZrYsSw9FUQp4PIk35HJPRSI/w640-h480/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+2+%25283%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cotton collar with whitework embroidery, c.1820s-30s.<br />Point Park University Costume Collection.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpvduKVR6fDt6m0wiH3VNEurcO-BrUPrUjZSLjlDYTwLPtQANG0bFx-KNtbulaQzYXLnh2TdCEEXQgKVRnKSEwAW9SRswrA7F-t0HDAzTTKiDnXV1EiKlJp1wvIslkgAK5nmBB6WA3OvE/s2048/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+2+%25281%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpvduKVR6fDt6m0wiH3VNEurcO-BrUPrUjZSLjlDYTwLPtQANG0bFx-KNtbulaQzYXLnh2TdCEEXQgKVRnKSEwAW9SRswrA7F-t0HDAzTTKiDnXV1EiKlJp1wvIslkgAK5nmBB6WA3OvE/w300-h400/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+2+%25281%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAgE4na3oTW0VATbPhwsaOfcf7ueRpCluaQt-aMZ76NP8lxvALo5gdMvQGOEqnbJk69PlKhN-CfOijlgXXoWQj2T7uy7Yk6TYG3EelZdG-BJUlYVjxpj1M6XhlYPQDOkE7TGKj7pivoxs/s2048/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+2+%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAgE4na3oTW0VATbPhwsaOfcf7ueRpCluaQt-aMZ76NP8lxvALo5gdMvQGOEqnbJk69PlKhN-CfOijlgXXoWQj2T7uy7Yk6TYG3EelZdG-BJUlYVjxpj1M6XhlYPQDOkE7TGKj7pivoxs/w400-h400/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+2+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the whitework embroidery.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Pelerine 3: </b>Embroidered net pelerine, c.1820s-40s. Notice again the double collars and lappets, leaf-shaped motifs around the boarders, and scalloped edges. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8oVhfqM9tm1a76lp2XZDHT-5KiOByhMj55RhF4k1JzyCQVBxVFwaRRYUL2ilVjGADgBilsXjcZmSqmB7dX6MmRqo0M-cNPwaE-006VTYVWBIxOB-mEjQTpEhqp5BGj43m4PtfJq3-lYE/s2048/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+3+%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1535" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8oVhfqM9tm1a76lp2XZDHT-5KiOByhMj55RhF4k1JzyCQVBxVFwaRRYUL2ilVjGADgBilsXjcZmSqmB7dX6MmRqo0M-cNPwaE-006VTYVWBIxOB-mEjQTpEhqp5BGj43m4PtfJq3-lYE/w640-h480/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+3+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Embroidered net pelerine, c.1820s-40s.<br />Point Park University Costume Collection.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWJKeLvULUpT54jJf6cqjVRi76zx8gc29AOBVFcsLUYZnKUowOcNjmEDYc2jZb2XMp6MAVUlXF7Tb0so9y3xTN8g4ib37AtPvy9Wlt_fISfpcOno7AAxG_yagf31qa5XwmRxnmswNdAFE/s2048/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+3+%25283%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1537" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWJKeLvULUpT54jJf6cqjVRi76zx8gc29AOBVFcsLUYZnKUowOcNjmEDYc2jZb2XMp6MAVUlXF7Tb0so9y3xTN8g4ib37AtPvy9Wlt_fISfpcOno7AAxG_yagf31qa5XwmRxnmswNdAFE/w300-h400/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+3+%25283%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJAXxE42-fDgDl6bHuT_x7shS0Kp_gyYMAAbHSM4DGSGAP4JfvJb0bIQMpY0_fIwktLoDJCBa-ZXHsCRGJWYBjL_bThu4uaRwsD0xbjLpWTHpx-lCgu-MCESGFytDYMmHGtYev0VlcxLk/s2048/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+3+%25284%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJAXxE42-fDgDl6bHuT_x7shS0Kp_gyYMAAbHSM4DGSGAP4JfvJb0bIQMpY0_fIwktLoDJCBa-ZXHsCRGJWYBjL_bThu4uaRwsD0xbjLpWTHpx-lCgu-MCESGFytDYMmHGtYev0VlcxLk/w400-h400/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+3+%25284%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the embroidery.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Pelerine 4:</b> Pelerine or fichu, dotted swiss cotton with lace frill, early-mid 19th century. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This accessory would have served a similar, decorative and functional purpose, though it is cut in a slightly later style than those above. The center front and back both measure 21.5" from the neck to end point, and the edges are finished with a 1" hem. There is quite a bit of piecing of the dotted swiss cotton, and the lace measures 2" wide. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZE0K6wlMRy2mSl2eh8Ye2CcKTmX8oQuZPue_dACaZ2vARssaBdO71Hrb17RA2dn0EKKZP3F3i20erl00yzUlEx6HRKmnvEpryHHlpGyEq6LBaaq_XKvO3UUA3SOnG_2EMDAvhwRSSXI0/s2048/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+1+%25286%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZE0K6wlMRy2mSl2eh8Ye2CcKTmX8oQuZPue_dACaZ2vARssaBdO71Hrb17RA2dn0EKKZP3F3i20erl00yzUlEx6HRKmnvEpryHHlpGyEq6LBaaq_XKvO3UUA3SOnG_2EMDAvhwRSSXI0/w640-h480/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+1+%25286%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pelerine or fichu of dotted swiss cotton with lace trim, early-mid 19th century.<br />Point Park University Costume Collection.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJukl-BB0fxuIQzPC4UAhE1oPdzGU8BWz5h85LXqNC7qvsP5Rw3gDrReUKIfHS1n85Y0VCx-PdZqHuk6qHrH6cfOQgixhGOOn54yEoT8okKiQWPxeOhMofJZ3Eqe7zM4TSpxV8HwE4xaU/s2048/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+1+%25283%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJukl-BB0fxuIQzPC4UAhE1oPdzGU8BWz5h85LXqNC7qvsP5Rw3gDrReUKIfHS1n85Y0VCx-PdZqHuk6qHrH6cfOQgixhGOOn54yEoT8okKiQWPxeOhMofJZ3Eqe7zM4TSpxV8HwE4xaU/w400-h400/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+1+%25283%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the piecing at the shoulder.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguOC_4zxwRme25sZoJEzxgtZY6D1TfMuVD74zglcCm0QmKUpCXUsot7Hwf9E8zZXKoShHYY3jfkT8DuxOYv7w34h5N5yH38gQOZqYUFbuxZArXANnOL58jpD_vPG3Jhb-sGPpHblvQlgM/s2048/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+1+%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguOC_4zxwRme25sZoJEzxgtZY6D1TfMuVD74zglcCm0QmKUpCXUsot7Hwf9E8zZXKoShHYY3jfkT8DuxOYv7w34h5N5yH38gQOZqYUFbuxZArXANnOL58jpD_vPG3Jhb-sGPpHblvQlgM/w400-h400/Point+Park+-+Pelerine+1+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the lace trim.</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>And that's it for today's post! </b> I also have a page for <a href="https://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/p/historical-clothing.html">Extant Garments</a> if you're interested in more posts featuring items from the Point Park University Costume Collection. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Like what you see here and want to support the creation of future content and fashion history programming? Consider joining us over on Patreon, and you'll also unlock exclusive contents like bonus blog posts, live chats, and more! Follow @youngsewphisticate on Facebook & Instagram.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b>As always, thank you for reading & special thanks to our generous patrons!</b></div></div></div></div>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-37812476001141784912020-09-24T10:00:00.001-04:002020-09-24T10:00:03.241-04:00Culture Not Costume: A Practical Guide to Avoiding Cultural Appropriation<p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The online costuming conference last weekend, Costume On 2: Tailored, was a great success, and to all of those who attended my lectures - <i>thank you! </i>I learned just as much about presenting as I hope participants did from the talks, and I look forward to future opportunities to share that research again! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Before I file my notes away, I did want to share what ended up being part of the conclusion of my second session, which discussed Orientalism in all of its complexities - including both historical and modern applications to fashion, textiles, and accessories. The last few slides focused on defining appreciation and appropriation, and I offered some guidelines or advice for applying culturally sensitive practices to our modern, historical costuming. However, I don't feel that one slide at the end really gave enough attention to this important topic, so I thought I'd follow up today with a blog post. This is intended as a practical guide for avoiding cultural appropriation in costuming, and while it's by no means all-inclusive, it offers a start. So, without further ado, let's dive in:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGRlHcPqdkAnigX3PwfF37RFGbM0MDNDgqjCMHyyqCS9e7D75iBtyXkPnNGChL7Y61AnhgTCYlBr5zfiU299m56svAlZvYvlcbgRQbgHaRa69ZoQduOq4Laa79w2xT_4QpOdiuWSR0EuY/s1920/Cultural+Appropriation+%25281%2529.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGRlHcPqdkAnigX3PwfF37RFGbM0MDNDgqjCMHyyqCS9e7D75iBtyXkPnNGChL7Y61AnhgTCYlBr5zfiU299m56svAlZvYvlcbgRQbgHaRa69ZoQduOq4Laa79w2xT_4QpOdiuWSR0EuY/w640-h360/Cultural+Appropriation+%25281%2529.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">First, let's discuss: <i>what is appropriation? </i>The online <a href="https://www.lexico.com/en/definition/appropriation">Oxford English dictionary</a> provides the following definition, stating that appropriation is the "action of taking something for one's own use, typically without the owner's permission." So when applied to culture, it is the intentional (or sometimes unintentional) copying of another culture's intellectual or material property. This includes, but is not limited to a culture's specific customs, traditions, or forms of expression, be it through music and dance, language, food, and, of course, clothing. Appropriation differs from "cultural borrowing" in that it is done without the permission of that culture, and often without respect or understanding for the significance of what is being taken. This is especially harmful when the community that is the source is a minority group that has been oppressed or exploited by the more dominant society, who profits either politically, economically, or socially from the taking. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">So when avoiding appropriation in own costuming, as a community, we must be more aware when we culturally-cross dress. Cultural awareness goes beyond simply avoiding using sacred or highly specific, traditional motifs, as we must consider the interests of the culture whose clothing or materials or being used. These actions fall under what is described as <i>cultural appreciation</i>. Cultural appreciation is characterized by having a genuine and authentic interest in another culture - by listening to the native perspective, learning about their history, and then understanding the significance of the object within its original context. Unlike appropriation, appreciation is an active exchange that is mutually beneficial, whether that includes a monetary exchange or just a better understanding on both sides. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtBFiSgCGnIfz3PuWoP2_PUMGIiyeQZjUfWf98lNIWpg6ypIxsnYgERG1dEWAr_7tq823Jn54xGBhZhbvFAnT0SP5QLqksJssQVZI8ZNg_PiP8LVU6H7TI25TBllXcBigtxYhU-kapb0/s1240/Culture+not+Costume.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1010" data-original-width="1240" height="522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtBFiSgCGnIfz3PuWoP2_PUMGIiyeQZjUfWf98lNIWpg6ypIxsnYgERG1dEWAr_7tq823Jn54xGBhZhbvFAnT0SP5QLqksJssQVZI8ZNg_PiP8LVU6H7TI25TBllXcBigtxYhU-kapb0/w640-h522/Culture+not+Costume.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I LOVE this illustration - culture is NOT a costume! <br />(Image source: <a href="https://www.theodysseyonline.com/cultural-appropriation-vs-cultural-appreciation">The Odyssey</a>)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Cultural borrowing in itself is not problematic, in fact, it's a <i>wonderful</i>, beautiful<i> </i>thing! We just need to keep the impact of our actions in mind as we make these transactions. This requires taking a moment to reflect on the intention - <i>why we are borrowing and for what purpose</i> - and making sure that the end result honors the culture, its people, and their objects in the context they were intended to be used and appreciated. <i> So, how do we do this - </i>or what are some immediate, practical tips for avoiding cultural appropriation? These, of course, are going to differ person to person, and situation to situation, but here is my advice and where I would start:</div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEIPjl3JbNO7gqOZW52jVC1YXgB7JfdtwR6JDNuCnB3Arfe9uSuq8zXD-Qqod3koEDMR_3z_gausgct_1o4kAIt49wwxBPq-FbE3IpRp9o3JkR4U8eLEP5gD7q5NsUf9svkflrmzLzUYo/s1920/Cultural+Appropriation+%25282%2529.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEIPjl3JbNO7gqOZW52jVC1YXgB7JfdtwR6JDNuCnB3Arfe9uSuq8zXD-Qqod3koEDMR_3z_gausgct_1o4kAIt49wwxBPq-FbE3IpRp9o3JkR4U8eLEP5gD7q5NsUf9svkflrmzLzUYo/w640-h360/Cultural+Appropriation+%25282%2529.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><b>Step number one: show genuine interest in the culture as a whole. </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Intention is everything. Consider your motivations before borrowing - is this for attention or superficial reasons (<i>ex: "likes" on an Instagram photo or just because it looks "cool" or "exotic"</i>)? Or is there a deeper, authentic interest in participating in another culture's traditions?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Simply being friends with someone from another culture or just enjoying the look of something different from your norm, doesn't give you permission to tokenize or appropriate. If you truly want to partake in another culture's dress, don't cherry-pick elements or modify tradition to suit an arbitrary aesthetic, but rather be interested in and celebrate the culture as a whole. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv0EwZLGXG6LphOTumruzKAjEA1rwMc9Gp_6Tz_a3Mn50Jy5Q7bIAI5TOP3YBclgkDwdeBruV96pwb9DoCs11XpmsBWmOnhoeCvszjXFS_IIVhx3O6FjjvK1PZMoqSW8gUm_7vzVcBnZY/s1920/Cultural+Appropriation+%25283%2529.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv0EwZLGXG6LphOTumruzKAjEA1rwMc9Gp_6Tz_a3Mn50Jy5Q7bIAI5TOP3YBclgkDwdeBruV96pwb9DoCs11XpmsBWmOnhoeCvszjXFS_IIVhx3O6FjjvK1PZMoqSW8gUm_7vzVcBnZY/w640-h362/Cultural+Appropriation+%25283%2529.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><b>Step number two: do your research! </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">When planning a costume, there's a lot of effort that goes into developing the character, designing the outfit, and sourcing all of the materials - <i>and that's all before the actual making process! </i>So when designing a costume with cross-cultural elements, it's equally, if not more important to do your research! This is not just a superficial google search, but really do a deep dive so you have a full understanding of the cultural and historical significance of an object or material you wish to use - as well as the appropriate context for its use. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Make sure to give the appropriate credit too. This includes disclosing and discussing your sources for inspiration, both the historical and the cultural. Costumers often provide a character reference when cosplaying, or the fashion plate or extant garment that inspired their historical dress - make sure to do the same when there's cultural background required. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMvPRlFD5oJ-m1LMICVEFE4cz4toodwYQrvsfc9wEBYX-7itE6zXwbyJ7AARuu4i3z9tqRNdchGr_7xVf4APwV_7rlALrFMmpwWUxV6zT9F2Xuf1PZVFgEoF_oa7kvaFZXSSBl7CtxMDA/s1920/Cultural+Appropriation+%25284%2529.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMvPRlFD5oJ-m1LMICVEFE4cz4toodwYQrvsfc9wEBYX-7itE6zXwbyJ7AARuu4i3z9tqRNdchGr_7xVf4APwV_7rlALrFMmpwWUxV6zT9F2Xuf1PZVFgEoF_oa7kvaFZXSSBl7CtxMDA/w640-h360/Cultural+Appropriation+%25284%2529.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><b>Step number three: be an empathetic listener. </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Consider the sources of your research - <i>did you directly consult with people from the culture to learn about their feelings and perspectives on the object you wish to use? </i>Cultural exchange is a two way street, and borrowing quickly becomes appropriation, exploitation, and oppression when the wishes of the source culture are excluded from conversation, and worse ignored or directly violated. Have an open and honest conversation with willing participants. And if you are the borrower, be an active listener and engaged learner, not a dismissive informer. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Also, support native artisans and makers whenever possible. The expression money talks applies here - for instance, instead of buying "tribal-inspired" earrings from just anyone, amplify the voices of Native American and indigenous peoples by recognizing their unique, cultural identities and purchasing directly from a Navajo artist. The result is two-fold - you're supporting a rich, crafting tradition that's been exploited by the "fashion" industry, and you're connecting with a culture, rather than a faceless corporation making a profit off of mass-produced rip-offs. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD3mgXGcmacq-qIbGgG6fsHVwzjWvOT9GA89h47UelxffP51nuK41R09G3mbpxVCcRxV4FyHAAQ3Jtg0KNfqGRHXz2um3XZ20oThIuXiDjYviqTR8yrvjOtkrWgKhKwabFLhBSBkFl0Rc/s1920/Cultural+Appropriation+%25285%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD3mgXGcmacq-qIbGgG6fsHVwzjWvOT9GA89h47UelxffP51nuK41R09G3mbpxVCcRxV4FyHAAQ3Jtg0KNfqGRHXz2um3XZ20oThIuXiDjYviqTR8yrvjOtkrWgKhKwabFLhBSBkFl0Rc/w640-h360/Cultural+Appropriation+%25285%2529.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Step number four: make conscious and intentional decisions. </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You've done your research, you've consulted with people from the culture, and now it's time to apply your findings. Be deliberate in your choices, think about the message your costume is sending - <i>are you honoring a culture or simply imitating it? </i> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Obviously, avoid perpetuating the stereotypes of a culture. Make sure, again, you are borrowing for the right reasons. None of which should be to make money or just for a "cool" photo to post online - but as an opportunity to learn about, interact with, and ultimately experience another culture. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_H3VkLhOh3p92S4n2Lbd1UE_TQoIyJW2qC6CKY1FmFqVIxyotAUhSURA59k_KD68ca8mzTIdIxTh_zdvcJ-dAHMRYMPgYEgfXSETLcb4bMaQUlYans0L49TYECc4TsBxkdCckJW_cMtU/s1920/Cultural+Appropriation+%25286%2529.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_H3VkLhOh3p92S4n2Lbd1UE_TQoIyJW2qC6CKY1FmFqVIxyotAUhSURA59k_KD68ca8mzTIdIxTh_zdvcJ-dAHMRYMPgYEgfXSETLcb4bMaQUlYans0L49TYECc4TsBxkdCckJW_cMtU/w640-h360/Cultural+Appropriation+%25286%2529.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><b>Step number five: err on the side of caution. </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">There is a thin line between appreciation and appropriation, but sometimes there's grey area or matters that will differ within personal or cultural interpretations. We have to be comfortable with the uncomfortable, and realize that there may not be a definitive answer. Above all, use your common sense. If you're question whether something is more appropriative than appreciative, it's best to err on the side of caution. And if your gut feeling is ever "no,"<i> just don't do it! </i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0rY5n21_B0LDD2brMP4eyqB2cELaEFkT2ksB-n8xjJdjPxYbOV22Nsv6OXRla7LtymHILjNYhyphenhyphen5sYAw-J7L5tndHbWb3d4onfM4gNTd6O2bsNdOcT3S5MDeWaF3ackUzE-yrcVowOueI/s1920/Cultural+Appropriation+%25287%2529.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0rY5n21_B0LDD2brMP4eyqB2cELaEFkT2ksB-n8xjJdjPxYbOV22Nsv6OXRla7LtymHILjNYhyphenhyphen5sYAw-J7L5tndHbWb3d4onfM4gNTd6O2bsNdOcT3S5MDeWaF3ackUzE-yrcVowOueI/w640-h360/Cultural+Appropriation+%25287%2529.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Step number six: be willing to acknowledge & learn from mistakes.</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">All actions have consequences, for better or for worse. The boundaries of culture are neither definite, nor static, rather they are fluid, dynamic, and constantly being redefined. Even when acting with the best of intentions, appropriation still happens - and the harm is real. We will all make mistakes, and it's important to give yourself permission to be human and a little grace. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The best response is a sincere apology. Acknowledge what went wrong, and don't continue to insist that you were appreciating if you've been told you're actually appropriating. Perhaps review steps one through three of this guide - and, most importantly, learn from the mistake so it doesn't happen again. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><b>And with that, I think I’ll open it up to any questions and further discussion! </b>How do you practice cultural appreciation, and what steps do you take to avoid appropriation in your own costuming? Which of the steps in this guide stood out to you most, and what advice would you add? </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Let me know in the comments below - thanks for reading, <i>and special thanks to our patrons who make content like this possible!</i> </div></div><p></p>Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-40136824935115244242020-09-08T17:30:00.000-04:002020-09-08T17:30:04.411-04:00Online Conference - Costume On 2: Tailored<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It is with the greatest pleasure that I can now announce I will be speaking at <a href="https://www.1886location.com/">Costume On 2: Tailored</a>, an online conference for historical costuming! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCh4AaIaAAX43ol8ksbAZrSE-OqZCdlkqrfrVdT9NemyVWnGVl5YI0Ov4dR0Z42HSF_4qjSGuY5sCzaDnm_2GOe508fu4v1RRYKi_PTyHEe2tbv50xbl9r3ze6a_MIj7icXxDF1fsohFI/s1600/Costume+On+Banner+%25282%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="1250" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCh4AaIaAAX43ol8ksbAZrSE-OqZCdlkqrfrVdT9NemyVWnGVl5YI0Ov4dR0Z42HSF_4qjSGuY5sCzaDnm_2GOe508fu4v1RRYKi_PTyHEe2tbv50xbl9r3ze6a_MIj7icXxDF1fsohFI/s640/Costume+On+Banner+%25282%2529.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For more information, please visit their website: <a href="http://1886location.com/">1886location.com</a><br />
Also find the Facebook page: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/costumeon">Costume On</a></td></tr>
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<i>Costume On</i> was created with the quarantine in mind, connecting costumers from all over the world for a weekend of online seminars and workshops. With topics spanning fashion history and techniques from the 17th through the 20th centuries (<i>and beyond</i>), there is sure to be a class for everyone. Following the success of their first conference, which was held back in the Spring, this upcoming, Fall conference - <a href="https://www.1886location.com/costumeon">Costume On 2: Tailored</a> - is scheduled for Saturday, September 19th and Sunday the 20th, 2020. </div>
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As the name suggests, the theme of this second Costume On conference is "Tailored," with an emphasis on historical menswear and tailoring. Conquer fitting, patterning, and drafting techniques, create period gifts for the men (<i>or women</i>) in your circles, and learn about the lives of every-day and extraordinary men who shaped history - <i>all from the comforts of your own home! </i>Classes are all taught live, and sign up is à la carte. You choose which lectures and workshops you'd like to attend, and pay the teacher per session. Whether you take one class, two, or more - as the website reads, you're attendance directly supports independent artists!<br />
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There's an incredible variety of offerings, so please see the website for the full listing and schedule for classes, here: <a href="https://www.1886location.com/costumeonclasses">Costume On 2: Tailored - List of Classes</a>. Some sessions run concurrently, so keep that in mind as you register.<br />
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Here's a snap shot of the list from their website:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBHZQ_4Cnhsgf6gL17INlZpGkrqrQeAfZCEYGf2q-Zoga6l-E1vD7aMW9PFKW7CEENiSrMYJ9AOc-6zyKuCV3BRmDXyiW-bgJZmY2c_q4RZ7M8YLtFi0plNll5n8RiMEzP3Q-jV2jJCFM/s1600/Class+List.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="788" data-original-width="784" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBHZQ_4Cnhsgf6gL17INlZpGkrqrQeAfZCEYGf2q-Zoga6l-E1vD7aMW9PFKW7CEENiSrMYJ9AOc-6zyKuCV3BRmDXyiW-bgJZmY2c_q4RZ7M8YLtFi0plNll5n8RiMEzP3Q-jV2jJCFM/s400/Class+List.JPG" width="396" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Register for classes, here: <a href="https://www.1886location.com/costumeonclasses">Costume On 2: Tailored - List of Classes</a></td></tr>
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And, as I announced above, I will be teaching two classes! I'm so excited to be making my debut into public speaking, and thank the <i>Costume On </i>organizers for the opportunity to present on the following topics related to menswear:<br />
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If the Coat Fits: Chinese Soldiers in the American Civil War</div>
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<i>Session time</i>: Saturday, September 19, 2020 at 11am EST.<br />
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This presentation has been several years in the making, and I'm thrilled to have the chance to combine new research on the early Chinese-American experience with updated information on Civil War participation. Since writing a guest blog post and article on the topic for the Genesee Country Village & Museum in 2017, interest in the topic has only grown. Researchers in the field have continued making new discoveries, fueling my own desires to tell the untold stories, and in doing so, honoring my Chinese and American heritages. <br />
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At this Costume On 2, you'll have the chance to hear this unique narrative, some for the very first time, and to reflect on the stories within your own history and experience that deserve to be remembered.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiAlJkOfbb7HYBDb34TxQHT_y_r_8r40JeT9kPMJen8iOYBSyWLmgkri9b7NC_fTiTiwvbWwK6jcxuT8g73z07p84oR4bT3Hvubc4Fokot4320yi4CiIUBGGMaOlV9iUHeUvl9oqgXoRA/s1600/If+the+Coat+Fits+-+Banner+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiAlJkOfbb7HYBDb34TxQHT_y_r_8r40JeT9kPMJen8iOYBSyWLmgkri9b7NC_fTiTiwvbWwK6jcxuT8g73z07p84oR4bT3Hvubc4Fokot4320yi4CiIUBGGMaOlV9iUHeUvl9oqgXoRA/s640/If+the+Coat+Fits+-+Banner+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Class Description: </i><br />
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If the coat fits, wear it – and the Chinese men who volunteered to serve in the Civil War did, fighting for a country that would later discriminate, exploit, exclude, and all but forget their remarkable contributions to the culture and creation of the United States. This presentation explores the Chinese-American experience, and tells the stories of individuals from both sides of the war, on land and at sea.<br />
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Period attitudes and depictions will be referenced, and may contrast with the successful people they were then, and continue to be today. The goal is two-fold: to highlight an untold history, and to inspire participants to draw from personal experience and other, unique perspectives when developing costumed impressions for historical reenactments and events.<br />
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This is a 90-minute lecture with a shared slide presentation. Time will be set aside for further questions and discussion at the end. <i>Registration remains OPEN until September 18, 2020.</i><br />
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Orientalism: Western Taste for Eastern Fashion</h3>
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<i>Session time: Sunday, September 20, 2020 at 6pm EST.</i></div>
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Born of an interest in Chinoiserie and love of complicated dramas - in this case, the complexities of cultural exchange in fashion and decorative arts, entwined with centuries of imperialism, politics, economics, and copy-cats - this talk presents my latest research horizons. "Orientalism" is only an introduction to the topic, offering an in-depth overview of the centuries of assimilation and appropriation through which menswear, as we in the Western world are familiar, originated:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLqjgheMZm2UmqfGiNe8efsr_v0CfVo-qQGwwtQzjQPdNrwXSb1F908omo8F_xTuc7BLx6YJ9yCBg19R5kgfeUhCj-L9rXXfp4P6bvdnp2epYf3lYOpjKF2zfIPTFNE5SzWi8cEZLxH0Y/s1600/Orientalism+-+Banner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLqjgheMZm2UmqfGiNe8efsr_v0CfVo-qQGwwtQzjQPdNrwXSb1F908omo8F_xTuc7BLx6YJ9yCBg19R5kgfeUhCj-L9rXXfp4P6bvdnp2epYf3lYOpjKF2zfIPTFNE5SzWi8cEZLxH0Y/s640/Orientalism+-+Banner.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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From Indian chintz prints and banyans, to Chinese silks and brisé fans, and Turkish smoking jackets complete with tasseled caps, the fashions of the East have enchanted the West for centuries. This presentation chronicles the complex, cross-cultural borrowing and imitation that is “Orientalism,” with an emphasis on the textiles, garments, and accessories that have shaped menswear from the late-16th through 19th centuries.<br />
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Select examples of historic portraiture, fashion plates, and extant garments from museum collections will accompany the discussion, and help the modern costumer navigate the divide between cultural appreciation and appropriation.<br />
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This is a 90-minute lecture with a shared slide presentation and time set aside for further questions and discussion at the end. <i>Registration will remain OPEN until September 19, 2020. </i><br />
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<i>Did something catch your eye? </i> I sure hope you'll consider signing up for a class or two during <a href="https://www.1886location.com/costumeonclasses">Costume On 2: Tailored</a>! With such a variety of offerings - live lectures, hands-on workshops, and behind-the-scenes tours of museums - there's something for everyone!<br />
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<i>Alright, it's back to research for me...see you in two weeks! </i></div>
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Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-65242994826119523132020-08-30T16:07:00.000-04:002020-08-30T16:10:01.651-04:00An Edwardian Picture Hat [Patreon Teaser]<blockquote class="tr_bq" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>"Picture hat</b> (<i>noun</i>) - a woman's highly decorated hat with a wide brim, as shown in pictures by 18th-century English painters such as Reynolds and Gainsborough" </blockquote>
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- Oxford Dictionary</blockquote>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_5kAQcGF0fHTUhmIEEi6wZljO_MzXkWXqwq7veL0zrDZwJo-j1Tuw3gIKCt_8joOH4HTnNyQTW-IfvWeHucg8aHCy1AlMSua8KF5pIjFrA9NI4DALVlUxARKE4VBdHzsd4vy0Ky7RuZ8/s1600/Edwardian+Picture+Hat.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1143" data-original-width="1600" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_5kAQcGF0fHTUhmIEEi6wZljO_MzXkWXqwq7veL0zrDZwJo-j1Tuw3gIKCt_8joOH4HTnNyQTW-IfvWeHucg8aHCy1AlMSua8KF5pIjFrA9NI4DALVlUxARKE4VBdHzsd4vy0Ky7RuZ8/s640/Edwardian+Picture+Hat.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Visit our <a href="https://www.patreon.com/sewphisticate">Patreon</a> to unlock the full post on the Making of an Edwardian Picture Hat!</td></tr>
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Gentle drapery, pastel satin, luscious feathers, and feminine frills - <i>the turn-of-century fashion had it all!</i> I'm really excited for today's post as it's something new and represents the beginning of the next chapter for this blog (and for me as I'm growing into this role of "content creator"). As you saw in the title, this is a teaser for <i>the first </i>exclusive-to-Patreon project. Upon joining, all Patrons unlock the full post, which includes my step-by-step process for making an Edwardian Picture Hat, the historical inspiration behind this particular design, and a series of completed project shots. </div>
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<b>Now, for a preview of what's on the inside: </b></div>
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From blocking sinamay, to wiring buckram, covering the form, and decorating it - this post will take you through the transformation from materials to picture hat. (<i>Feel free to click on the screenshot below to make it larger!</i>)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiXfrc_voxG5Lp-zCuI9fIRwIfdvxPOo24i6jg4JR2M5q2DUOkLzixBN5PQsGTuTgMkgJXpnRY96rVRUXJhpQMEvNHIjZ0_1zh5EM0DL1Y8CfShCA2ghsrTvELFCOv-vMPZvCmS1DmWTk/s1600/Patreon+Preview.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="796" data-original-width="918" height="345" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiXfrc_voxG5Lp-zCuI9fIRwIfdvxPOo24i6jg4JR2M5q2DUOkLzixBN5PQsGTuTgMkgJXpnRY96rVRUXJhpQMEvNHIjZ0_1zh5EM0DL1Y8CfShCA2ghsrTvELFCOv-vMPZvCmS1DmWTk/s400/Patreon+Preview.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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Picture hat materials include: sinamay and buckram base, cotton mulling, millinery wire, petersham ribbon; black silk habotai for the outer fabric; light blue, textured satin, black cotton gauze, and ostrich feathers for trimming. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV3Zr_eRL0RJf8OzQCFuUtINOOsGODjFPhiLkQKVHgua4XkToRiqahnOoaZA1QfmM5NfOy9TFWfL66U_uDdDnJTFDDTiP2bxig31VbI7h7q-pLpwMF622uyhBXbtoljeokKkxfro9f6Ko/s1600/Materials.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV3Zr_eRL0RJf8OzQCFuUtINOOsGODjFPhiLkQKVHgua4XkToRiqahnOoaZA1QfmM5NfOy9TFWfL66U_uDdDnJTFDDTiP2bxig31VbI7h7q-pLpwMF622uyhBXbtoljeokKkxfro9f6Ko/s400/Materials.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baby blue satin, black cotton gauze, and ostrich plumes</td></tr>
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<b><u>Completed Project Shots</u></b></div>
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To wrap up this teaser post, here are a few of the completed project shots:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSVt78nGZfcX-ywK3zAgW_ZyZ6yqFYfKDluHNbU5-C0a3AhSjk8oPOAwqZpgptFinZWrCgbwTVBTk1l0oL_KEwYD4OzuvLP_bGSi9ME2mxNXk3tA0zSQo5leCDfUYBC-DrmsU8Ak3RR88/s1600/Picture+Hat+-+Side+1+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSVt78nGZfcX-ywK3zAgW_ZyZ6yqFYfKDluHNbU5-C0a3AhSjk8oPOAwqZpgptFinZWrCgbwTVBTk1l0oL_KEwYD4OzuvLP_bGSi9ME2mxNXk3tA0zSQo5leCDfUYBC-DrmsU8Ak3RR88/s400/Picture+Hat+-+Side+1+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSev6MN7RFSqYAnvpfkiDNTERC713wLIZzN5uL9ZQmRcXOfqWo2PdCe0N0i8KRqMhxblcT9d9wdxWhnE30dGOoZmBRhzKoTwZALMSCKKPnU5gTFSue2LId12qc2vKsnHi-jGLSKrrVQ6c/s1600/Picture+Hat+-+Side+1+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSev6MN7RFSqYAnvpfkiDNTERC713wLIZzN5uL9ZQmRcXOfqWo2PdCe0N0i8KRqMhxblcT9d9wdxWhnE30dGOoZmBRhzKoTwZALMSCKKPnU5gTFSue2LId12qc2vKsnHi-jGLSKrrVQ6c/s400/Picture+Hat+-+Side+1+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1HQyMyBfNONxlBirIjPgLHQSuu6lyhc0dPNiWuNZfVtB0SnCjf3Rc7czmbp8kHFkT4He8xyBiPS2ZgOfwyPZwhL45rIVJi57nEjkCya6x4cbfibJpD7aRAHGRzmiZWZS8M-ix36k2rls/s1600/Picture+Hat+-+Side+2+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1HQyMyBfNONxlBirIjPgLHQSuu6lyhc0dPNiWuNZfVtB0SnCjf3Rc7czmbp8kHFkT4He8xyBiPS2ZgOfwyPZwhL45rIVJi57nEjkCya6x4cbfibJpD7aRAHGRzmiZWZS8M-ix36k2rls/s400/Picture+Hat+-+Side+2+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Want to see more? </i>Please visit our <a href="https://www.patreon.com/sewphisticate">Patreon</a> page and you'll not only unlock this post, but access to other exclusive contents like bonus blog posts, live chats, and more! Every contribution makes a big difference, and will help support future blogging and educational programming. </div>
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<b>As always, thank you for reading</b>, </div>
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<b>& special thanks to Patrons</b><i> - you're the feathers on my picture hat!</i></div>
Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-85251873330093124892020-08-28T10:00:00.000-04:002020-08-28T10:00:02.441-04:00Demystifying the Curved Tuck Detail<div style="text-align: left;">
In this tutorial, I'll be sharing one of my favorite mid-19th century dressmaking tricks and demystifying the "curved tuck" detail as seen on many original and reproduction bodices.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4hMC8xUOdITo-wq0wYf-qdDAv9wHn4JwvCAp4GUYfp2pVHF8PS8Xs2H4Egy5XfzefEJf7i6RgX9lHvjPyRKtHmqgb0puJFs0syBxH_H9VRY_IatmFx6HVCtDQsoFbih-aiwJWnLUbAg8/s1600/Curved+Tuck+Detail.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4hMC8xUOdITo-wq0wYf-qdDAv9wHn4JwvCAp4GUYfp2pVHF8PS8Xs2H4Egy5XfzefEJf7i6RgX9lHvjPyRKtHmqgb0puJFs0syBxH_H9VRY_IatmFx6HVCtDQsoFbih-aiwJWnLUbAg8/s640/Curved+Tuck+Detail.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Among Civil War reenactors and makers of historic clothing, there's some disagreement between whether the back of a dress' bodice should be cut with <i>three</i> pieces - including a center back with concave sides and two, convex-curved side back pieces - or in <i>one </i>piece. You might be wondering <i>why</i> the debate, and while it's a matter of personal, sewing preference, it also serves practical and fashionable purposes.<br />
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A conventional three-piece back would be stitched together - concave to convex sides - forming a fitted "princess seam" which gave the illusion of a broader back and narrower waist (think hour-glass shaped!). Even the slightest off-set of a pattern can make a big difference to the eyes, and when achieving the fashionable silhouette, every detail counts!<br />
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Here a few extant examples that illustrate this illusion: notice how the curved back seams give shape to this solid-colored taffeta dress, <i>doesn't it help enhance the hour-glass silhouette?</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUhvZE7iT-dqmy5SH9OHbfDMYUvGUIW_-YnqnXTFXM1nNo-I7S06j3TljytFQagz0YsfVhyhcgNq2Lb1BoEQo-4EWDrkwc8ZknBjFfiNeVL7uQH3u1XGKY2iY4HluKufmDrQD4PeBwohU/s1600/Curved+tuck+extant+-+exterior+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1434" data-original-width="1600" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUhvZE7iT-dqmy5SH9OHbfDMYUvGUIW_-YnqnXTFXM1nNo-I7S06j3TljytFQagz0YsfVhyhcgNq2Lb1BoEQo-4EWDrkwc8ZknBjFfiNeVL7uQH3u1XGKY2iY4HluKufmDrQD4PeBwohU/s400/Curved+tuck+extant+-+exterior+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Antebellum Dress of aubergine silk taffeta<br />
(Image source: <a href="http://www.extantgowns.com/2016/03/antebellum-dress.html">All The Pretty Dresses</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The effect works equally well with prints and plaids too. It can be a noticeable design element, or a more subtle, almost undetectable break in the pattern, but nonetheless pleasing to the eye! In this example, the curve is almost invisible thanks to the beautiful, careful pattern matching:</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoFY0Hvhvc7riA1dZcMNeMiJzdJIeqaaME94ujWCtdxkhx_dDp4fFfr6nm6utojbmWiRb11tIGvfTmOh4vSv9WfMKzK5aFc39aSVo_R60rLwBLK7YnPE6cQFEM8Z9E2BGuX1CiA1ZPFcs/s1600/Curved+tuck+extant+-+exterior+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1339" data-original-width="1600" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoFY0Hvhvc7riA1dZcMNeMiJzdJIeqaaME94ujWCtdxkhx_dDp4fFfr6nm6utojbmWiRb11tIGvfTmOh4vSv9WfMKzK5aFc39aSVo_R60rLwBLK7YnPE6cQFEM8Z9E2BGuX1CiA1ZPFcs/s400/Curved+tuck+extant+-+exterior+%25281%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day Bodice of an 1860s Ensemble<br />
(Image source: <a href="http://www.extantgowns.com/2016/04/1860s-day-and-evening-ensemble-plus.html">All the Pretty Dresses</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
And here, the more noticeable off-set to the pattern adds almost a lively, decorative design element: </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJCG63QkhpiZi1BvdyLVNzAg1TilSyTax6j_CyWwC1XdsO0V9MCv3QlJwrLO9VCNylDPfFPd3XAPmXWwB1jj8WwfbfKbXv-f9Me9OY2C7wYxzDffMGbBugm0PHY492FCtTRFbcSYzQweg/s1600/Curved+tuck+extant+-+exterior+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1463" data-original-width="1600" height="365" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJCG63QkhpiZi1BvdyLVNzAg1TilSyTax6j_CyWwC1XdsO0V9MCv3QlJwrLO9VCNylDPfFPd3XAPmXWwB1jj8WwfbfKbXv-f9Me9OY2C7wYxzDffMGbBugm0PHY492FCtTRFbcSYzQweg/s400/Curved+tuck+extant+-+exterior+%25283%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">American Civil War Era Bodice of wool gauze with brown silk stripes<br />
(Image source: <a href="http://www.extantgowns.com/2015/05/american-civil-war-era-bodice.html">All the Pretty Dresses</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Having the additional seams of the three-piece back also allows for more shaping ease, especially if the wearer has a bit more curve in their spine. (However, ask anyone who sews and they'll probably agree that fitting is much easier on straight seams than on curves! In draping classes, we were always taught to add 5/8" allowance on princess seams since they were less likely to be changed, and 1" on side seams as most costume alterations could be made there.)<br />
<br />
<br />
On the other hand, as historical dressmakers discovered, by cutting the back bodice in one piece and mimicking the curved seam of a three-piece back through a tiny, top stitched "curved tuck," the same illusion is preserved. Side seams were traditionally slightly angled, so with the little bit of bias stretch, fitting can easily happen there.<br />
<br />
Here are a few extant examples using a tuck to create the curved effect: In this first example which comes from Katherine's of <a href="http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/index.html">The Fashionable Past</a> blog, there's a single line of stitching on the lining indicating the false three-piece back, as well as the angled side seams which help with the overall illusion and fit of the bodice. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1qrk76YXYyANSWFN5XY79MGtlC2JxOo6I2b5jsgSvNDKRivuMw3cKHIVVU1jpyuDZKloMQyVcexdOYoMWipqboriQt8BNCb1h1oxnxtloVQTnIaU1unjhLUzcn6_VvJ0x7exdeDnEEs8/s1600/extant+1-piece+back+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="915" data-original-width="1000" height="365" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1qrk76YXYyANSWFN5XY79MGtlC2JxOo6I2b5jsgSvNDKRivuMw3cKHIVVU1jpyuDZKloMQyVcexdOYoMWipqboriQt8BNCb1h1oxnxtloVQTnIaU1unjhLUzcn6_VvJ0x7exdeDnEEs8/s400/extant+1-piece+back+%25281%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside view of an 1860s bodice<br />(Image source: <a href="http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/1860s_bodice2.html">The Fashionable Past</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />From the outside, that same bodice's false three-piece back and curved "seams" are indistinguishable from a true three-piece back:<br /><div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiASH-aPeIKs-NRcEzaTd5GUTM81nP0MiQOyG82gHfQPvNt8L5hP_vWmM7RdJo-ejzcDLd7osN0hTobWusDaY5WwByuihMvNB5tNL29tOUyl_QkT3ZofFZ8FvsEWddipdkb1tRZSure4zE/s1600/extant+1-piece+back+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="843" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiASH-aPeIKs-NRcEzaTd5GUTM81nP0MiQOyG82gHfQPvNt8L5hP_vWmM7RdJo-ejzcDLd7osN0hTobWusDaY5WwByuihMvNB5tNL29tOUyl_QkT3ZofFZ8FvsEWddipdkb1tRZSure4zE/s400/extant+1-piece+back+%25282%2529.jpg" width="336" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside view of an 1860s bodice<br />(Image source: <a href="http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/1860s_bodice1.html">The Fashionable Past</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />And for comparison, here's a true three-piece back: Notice there's not much difference in the effect from the outside, aside from the actual color of the silk.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5OS-hR71TXOfHEMRZ5hUhBoA4JLdCTXamlWgYB8D1wxfZzh6bu3F8BXtt2aGbObQtoWN5UJ-qLZ38qU247Fyg8qMSFqfFDm-ekuYcELs8Ju6hEH5OMcZFOiqNqvFN_1KZF2o40x4TbfE/s1600/extant+3-piece+back+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1066" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5OS-hR71TXOfHEMRZ5hUhBoA4JLdCTXamlWgYB8D1wxfZzh6bu3F8BXtt2aGbObQtoWN5UJ-qLZ38qU247Fyg8qMSFqfFDm-ekuYcELs8Ju6hEH5OMcZFOiqNqvFN_1KZF2o40x4TbfE/s400/extant+3-piece+back+%25281%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mid-1860s day dress, originally of violet color but mostly faded to brown<br />(Image source: <a href="http://www.extantgowns.com/2012/12/mid-1860s-outfit.html">All the Pretty Dresses</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn0KTw-rD3nMerreabGn1lo9hRTFp3pSC09mfTyTmY6vrZJeomIZCswZbp2lYbqnrFc1Osk_2JNS2hUb78w5B1vFa2wEIkpukrJB11sJ7Riz_Wo8pIXDXdTiWy1eOIDzeY6RtxS-HACpc/s1600/extant+3-piece+back+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1066" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn0KTw-rD3nMerreabGn1lo9hRTFp3pSC09mfTyTmY6vrZJeomIZCswZbp2lYbqnrFc1Osk_2JNS2hUb78w5B1vFa2wEIkpukrJB11sJ7Riz_Wo8pIXDXdTiWy1eOIDzeY6RtxS-HACpc/s400/extant+3-piece+back+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of the interior showing a true three-piece back with generous seam allowance<br />(Image source: <a href="http://www.extantgowns.com/2012/12/mid-1860s-outfit.html">All the Pretty Dresses</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />It can be difficult to find images of the backs of dresses, and even more difficult to find pictures of the insides! But here are two more one-piece backs with the same curved tuck technique: </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZRJCf2lCe7q-Bo97I6l3fwKNg45ju7tiRPJBtz6r_SufXxGXnDTZPY1lIHlOkUm_d2JHnwkSy_5h23C3IWKhPwkDyQ6KnG8NlF4AJAQcV-h0XVYF9Fv6SATQMIHaTN4d6U9gki-iAkeo/s1600/Curved+tuck+extant+-+interior+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="423" data-original-width="564" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZRJCf2lCe7q-Bo97I6l3fwKNg45ju7tiRPJBtz6r_SufXxGXnDTZPY1lIHlOkUm_d2JHnwkSy_5h23C3IWKhPwkDyQ6KnG8NlF4AJAQcV-h0XVYF9Fv6SATQMIHaTN4d6U9gki-iAkeo/s400/Curved+tuck+extant+-+interior+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bodice interior, dress of black silk<br />(Image source: <a href="https://ar.pinterest.com/pin/105482816249034590/?nic_v2=1a3MK77i0">Pinterest</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE10W4Lkq3k1kvMgGw45D1OcvHJayo7DLxzdQTuLP-5pWbl0wX2aVzkPMP02sUBKtTnaIssV22UaXQwgx76HDmfJ9gY-b7iHxVaq9subNO0spTRNiKZVno9MIN9RP6-hMwPVfVAtf-jMs/s1600/Curved+tuck+extant+-+interior+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="423" data-original-width="564" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE10W4Lkq3k1kvMgGw45D1OcvHJayo7DLxzdQTuLP-5pWbl0wX2aVzkPMP02sUBKtTnaIssV22UaXQwgx76HDmfJ9gY-b7iHxVaq9subNO0spTRNiKZVno9MIN9RP6-hMwPVfVAtf-jMs/s400/Curved+tuck+extant+-+interior+%25281%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bodice interior, dress of wool challis<br />(Image source: <a href="https://ar.pinterest.com/pin/123075002287608062/?nic_v2=1a3MK77i0">Pinterest</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Another time-saving variation to taking a tuck I've seen is applying narrow bias strips on the flat back piece, though these were on reproduction rather than original garments...So while the curved tuck technique might not work with every fabric, it's certainly a clever, period-correct sewing trick that can be used on cotton, wool, and silk dresses and avoids the hassle of dealing with those fiddly curved seams!<br />
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<b><u><br /></u></b>
<b><u>Recreating the Curved Tuck Detail</u></b><br />
<b><u><br /></u></b>
So we've discussed the three-piece versus one-piece bodice back, and now that you're familiar with the what and why of each style, let's jump into the how-to portion of this post:<br />
<br />
<b>Step One:</b> Cut one back piece from both the lining (I used plain muslin, though polished cotton would work too) and fashion fabric, which for me is a striped, reproduction cotton. For the fashion fabric, I recommend adding a little extra fabric at the side seams so when the tuck is added, the side seams will still line up. But if they don't, no worries as it will all be hidden in the seam allowance!<br />
<br />
<b>Step Two:</b> Lay fashion fabric and lining together, (<i>optional: baste at the shoulders and neckline to keep the layers from shifting</i>), and using a curved ruler, mark a smooth curve beginning at the armscye (a couple inches off the shoulder) and ending at the waist. Looking at original examples can help with visualizing the placement. <br />
<br />
Repeat the same curve on the other side. Notice that each of the curves end about an inch away from the center back at the waist, creating a very narrow space between curves. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix0g3AhyphenhyphengMs__PO4GCWd4bLBy9VkG90BtgKWqA2g9K3_xbF48BjYR8sXZ6YhN5WIbqM-c0qsu69FX-a6Vvv360YGweEARM8qoatohF2xJ_eXKs5qDsaNVZWKN6-i9V9ozshHet3olbWjU/s1600/Curved+tuck+step+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix0g3AhyphenhyphengMs__PO4GCWd4bLBy9VkG90BtgKWqA2g9K3_xbF48BjYR8sXZ6YhN5WIbqM-c0qsu69FX-a6Vvv360YGweEARM8qoatohF2xJ_eXKs5qDsaNVZWKN6-i9V9ozshHet3olbWjU/s400/Curved+tuck+step+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Use a curved ruler to mark a smooth curve from the armscye to the waistline.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Step Three: </b>Baste the fashion fabric and lining together following the marked lines. This will hold the pieces together as you create the tuck.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9XQUzdNlU-WumdWEWy5n1oiYVnH_RYatrj7KRU6JMFMer_7jKDCBqfK3i8mL4HV1zcPJon-p0pSGllwtNtQMM8-XsAm2DD8MDximWfcy7WsZNqEeXXqV8n9bwkjLbc4VrbFX4A-jItDg/s1600/Curved+tuck+step+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9XQUzdNlU-WumdWEWy5n1oiYVnH_RYatrj7KRU6JMFMer_7jKDCBqfK3i8mL4HV1zcPJon-p0pSGllwtNtQMM8-XsAm2DD8MDximWfcy7WsZNqEeXXqV8n9bwkjLbc4VrbFX4A-jItDg/s400/Curved+tuck+step+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baste along the curved lines as marked,<br />notice that I cut the fashion fabric slightly larger than the lining.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><b>Step Four: </b>To create the tuck, slightly roll the fashion fabric up and over to cover the line of stitching created in step three. Pin and press the crease in place.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3plvihUluPaivotll-1M_dP_7MXRmLiRMq4Ux0S8ltJK_QGc6-GPVcfF9BjkNgzSR5pmiGP-CPANRcGB_ffPZiZVbaYW3pc_RhFwbBp1XB_rZgfLlxJw7zqcEz7DpBOgBWfG63TXi6Ug/s1600/Curved+tuck+step+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3plvihUluPaivotll-1M_dP_7MXRmLiRMq4Ux0S8ltJK_QGc6-GPVcfF9BjkNgzSR5pmiGP-CPANRcGB_ffPZiZVbaYW3pc_RhFwbBp1XB_rZgfLlxJw7zqcEz7DpBOgBWfG63TXi6Ug/s400/Curved+tuck+step+%25283%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slightly roll the fabric over the basting line. Pin and press the crease.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Step Five: </b>To secure the tuck, run a line of spaced backstitches along the edge of the crease. These will be visible, so make sure to use a matching thread! <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO_xkEDHo_Matg6-lp4CHIfAUN3hkONKTV6Bdhxz0WMC2rZlmxC9b_w2xHC5AJjFD5UPPgs_bXv8iTvFmESpWcyBqz2_anmapjsweGwGpXHBNyxa5weJlGfgCuDi8xvpzQ8kqWfaVrng0/s1600/Curved+tuck+step+%25284%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO_xkEDHo_Matg6-lp4CHIfAUN3hkONKTV6Bdhxz0WMC2rZlmxC9b_w2xHC5AJjFD5UPPgs_bXv8iTvFmESpWcyBqz2_anmapjsweGwGpXHBNyxa5weJlGfgCuDi8xvpzQ8kqWfaVrng0/s400/Curved+tuck+step+%25284%2529.JPG" width="398" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stitch along the edge of the crease to secure the tuck.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Repeat </b>steps 3-5 for two curved tucks. Press so that the back lays flat, and now the rest of the bodice can be assembled in the usual manner. <br />
<br />
If the fashion fabric and lining no longer meet, make sure to follow the <i>lining edge </i>when seaming the sides. (Do <i>not </i>trim them to be even or your garment may not fit - again, the difference should be minimal and completely hidden in the seam allowance)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwQIjSyPMlk8LxAcrCCvboyAYq7jCY2MGLb0C9vbcg5Kn9uuNyp3bFNTeYoerPV-9CCNZ3kPoRiKofW9jb9MfgXg8KWAXpGt3HqYIxV8-6zdtXYncH8lwXQx_mNuxoZBIuC8xjCwu1zKY/s1600/Curved+tuck+step+%25285%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwQIjSyPMlk8LxAcrCCvboyAYq7jCY2MGLb0C9vbcg5Kn9uuNyp3bFNTeYoerPV-9CCNZ3kPoRiKofW9jb9MfgXg8KWAXpGt3HqYIxV8-6zdtXYncH8lwXQx_mNuxoZBIuC8xjCwu1zKY/s400/Curved+tuck+step+%25285%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The finished back with curved tucks, outside.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSufIhCFFFeTAryCSlTmnteJ37ILFnZ5cqWd8cLmlFI-0GjOkZNBZnMvnRdlYTqmo5mi7QjcnVQbXAA1qP2boOCc3kq1sqpetGCv3hhdEh7RCNnMLS30V7kM-cLSWrGFjROmv2AmAGRFI/s1600/Curved+tuck+step+%25286%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSufIhCFFFeTAryCSlTmnteJ37ILFnZ5cqWd8cLmlFI-0GjOkZNBZnMvnRdlYTqmo5mi7QjcnVQbXAA1qP2boOCc3kq1sqpetGCv3hhdEh7RCNnMLS30V7kM-cLSWrGFjROmv2AmAGRFI/s400/Curved+tuck+step+%25286%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's the back from the inside, notice there are two lines of stitching.<br />I like to base the sides seams, following the lining edge when joining the fronts and back together.</td></tr>
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And that's all there is too it - it's a simple, yet effective and period correct method for creating the look and illusion of a three-piece back in one, without the hassle of stitching and clipping curved seams. <br />
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<i>Have you ever made a mid-19th century dress?</i> And if so, with a three-piece back or one-piece with curved tucks? As always, <b>thank you for reading & happy sewing! </b></div>
Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-47654517973053971462020-08-25T22:27:00.000-04:002020-08-25T22:27:20.581-04:00A Striped Dress for Ginny<div style="text-align: left;">
<i>Here is a post for all of the doll enthusiasts out there! </i>In today's blog post, I'll be detailing the construction of the little, striped dress and tucked petticoat that Ginny, the blog's traveling doll, wore in our previous adventure, here: <a href="https://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2020/08/past-summers-visit-to-sonnenberg-gardens.html">Past Summer's Visit to the Sonnenberg Gardens</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMvp70RiG0cOAg2gvdeSXRfXwMfok5WNNxEFuvqkXGuTzOS3Z1Axfab6EtcqD8uaP6XLY4b5KkzkQIaRN20Myyyra-Op-socWny9XHb_HO585dk9kvH9GRjM2k6uudFTQ_lgsajweuG0g/s1600/Ginny%2527s+Striped+Dress.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMvp70RiG0cOAg2gvdeSXRfXwMfok5WNNxEFuvqkXGuTzOS3Z1Axfab6EtcqD8uaP6XLY4b5KkzkQIaRN20Myyyra-Op-socWny9XHb_HO585dk9kvH9GRjM2k6uudFTQ_lgsajweuG0g/s640/Ginny%2527s+Striped+Dress.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ginny, the blog's traveling doll, among the wildflowers at the <a href="https://www.sonnenberg.org/">Sonnenberg Gardens</a></td></tr>
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Making doll clothing is so much fun, and in many ways like making people's clothing, but on a smaller scale of course. I found that a lot of the same techniques that I use for my own historic clothing work in miniature too, including flat lining the bodice and fitting it with darts, gauging (or cartridge pleating) the skirt, and applying a hem facing in the usual manner. Speaking of the usual manner, it wouldn't be proper to build a dress without first addressing the underclothes:</div>
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<b><u>Part I: Tucked Petticoat</u></b></div>
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To help create the fashionable bell-shaped silhouette, Ginny needed a petticoat (or two) to support her dress. Eventually, I'd like to make her an entire set of period undergarments - including a chemise, drawers, corset (wouldn't tiny, size 0 hooks and eyes make for a cute busk?!), and maybe even a doll-sized cage crinoline...but for now, all we had time for was the basic, white cotton petticoat. </div>
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Constructed just like my own petticoats, Ginny's doll-sized petticoat features a deep hem with two tucks to help stiffen and hold out the skirts. The skirt was then gauged (also called cartridge pleating) and whip stitched to a waistband. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcTVGiY-S5-X0M_QbqJc98u0L2Eeq9szKWGguyQ7CHu-ZuEZhtuZhUlKzUufPYHZQxPlsBb14cQEIJZZWDfmcdCAi8dCzLcm_AJzH78DknUeR4LpFMcojMcWTPyL6cR0Efnwc6aj-OjWk/s1600/Petticoat+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcTVGiY-S5-X0M_QbqJc98u0L2Eeq9szKWGguyQ7CHu-ZuEZhtuZhUlKzUufPYHZQxPlsBb14cQEIJZZWDfmcdCAi8dCzLcm_AJzH78DknUeR4LpFMcojMcWTPyL6cR0Efnwc6aj-OjWk/s400/Petticoat+%25283%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tucked petticoat, front.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9on29JqGLzCJdYFHO5yIPsvEdPT1y9OhhLi_Hux31_li8Ntz0SUtqNAwqhjkHiD7-7cGU-DaYTBhAR1s7oB4QlOw8HJJtGn2gmBQ0jpVbfS_DgbTkCxjpMlIidDAaRXefBGjLoePT1qY/s1600/Petticoat+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9on29JqGLzCJdYFHO5yIPsvEdPT1y9OhhLi_Hux31_li8Ntz0SUtqNAwqhjkHiD7-7cGU-DaYTBhAR1s7oB4QlOw8HJJtGn2gmBQ0jpVbfS_DgbTkCxjpMlIidDAaRXefBGjLoePT1qY/s400/Petticoat+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tucked petticoat, back with overlapping closure.</td></tr>
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For convenience, I used a snap for a closure, but may eventually replace it with a little, bone button and buttonhole for the next wearing: </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYHtEjiVUjWSjlrwDIenFWga-7f3VaK8tjI4X6qqW0b7rZ_WIKY-wVqfiIpZ0-IWUUcdN52i2jTV3cyebqwmbBPKCq4zdb_liWwJZAZr4tSo7uOz-a5Ai_6Qit21uBtK7zxyGX7OJiYtA/s1600/Petticoat+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYHtEjiVUjWSjlrwDIenFWga-7f3VaK8tjI4X6qqW0b7rZ_WIKY-wVqfiIpZ0-IWUUcdN52i2jTV3cyebqwmbBPKCq4zdb_liWwJZAZr4tSo7uOz-a5Ai_6Qit21uBtK7zxyGX7OJiYtA/s400/Petticoat+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the gauging and waistband with snap closure.</td></tr>
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<b><u>Part II: Striped Dress</u></b></div>
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I was thrilled to find a remnant in a doll-scale reproduction print that resembled my own striped dress! <i>Every girl dreams of matching dresses with her doll, right? </i>Anyways, American girl dolls are actually pinnable, so it made it easy to drape a basic bodice right on the doll. The back is one piece, and the fronts are fitted with darts. These were then joined at the sides and set onto a narrow waistband. For the sleeves, I ran two lines of gathering stitches to create the double puffed effect, and hemmed the ends. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt3MXDLWfmTdr1oe0pcw0mxrrugnx5CQFyQEPUm3ZGr8PPSg36uvTwmVF8A9t49WAfAArRJFcNDkfumr7SUvACQYm5HdiacSLIPaVXjX6pn447fVZeFYmnRtxnLyL6IIRwHdX_P_08fwI/s1600/Construction+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt3MXDLWfmTdr1oe0pcw0mxrrugnx5CQFyQEPUm3ZGr8PPSg36uvTwmVF8A9t49WAfAArRJFcNDkfumr7SUvACQYm5HdiacSLIPaVXjX6pn447fVZeFYmnRtxnLyL6IIRwHdX_P_08fwI/s400/Construction+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Striped dress construction - the bodice is finished and ready for the skirt to be attached.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOvVQOfo7Qdi41zUdK0Pl1MCwn_fvN5BvtmhyphenhyphenugqCEf27z3qHGdQ5ufXl9RXzyTTYMxhd1qnUwMbN72rS4Xwqz1uetIxxo2fqwH5sN6WD8BwneJTD6HearX0zAZR7VCvgxCLD1mKEToRc/s1600/Construction+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOvVQOfo7Qdi41zUdK0Pl1MCwn_fvN5BvtmhyphenhyphenugqCEf27z3qHGdQ5ufXl9RXzyTTYMxhd1qnUwMbN72rS4Xwqz1uetIxxo2fqwH5sN6WD8BwneJTD6HearX0zAZR7VCvgxCLD1mKEToRc/s400/Construction+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A look at the inside of the bodice and skirt.</td></tr>
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Next, the skirt needed assembling. After seaming the side panels, the skirt was gauged and whip stitched to the bodice's waistband, much like the tucked petticoat. Rather than a folded hem, a deep hem facing in plain cotton was applied:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNbsMse0voSjTy6ZvxeTZCELtbsVj47s0UZt_wbYkQvQwM87xexiN7dtj9SS1TDBb-WM439q8JV-oyThyphenhypheny4HhEipvLGwctmJqbhmNo2QU7LqvwC_ywisvDiERanynML9ezJNLT5wnunbo/s1600/Construction+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNbsMse0voSjTy6ZvxeTZCELtbsVj47s0UZt_wbYkQvQwM87xexiN7dtj9SS1TDBb-WM439q8JV-oyThyphenhypheny4HhEipvLGwctmJqbhmNo2QU7LqvwC_ywisvDiERanynML9ezJNLT5wnunbo/s400/Construction+%25283%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two different ways of finishing skirt hems.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1ra3k1CsOlenSUpNzXA4dbyUtlN7OPG1duJJWLVwjALNo7v6P27F4TeK1Q3KKWMqMPuIA62YcEufKnk2ZVVw2l77z1brtVqY98QlsWfQq_26eKjV2w1fy4aU7KTpmav3b50JVCVUImk/s1600/Completed+Dress+-+Flat+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1ra3k1CsOlenSUpNzXA4dbyUtlN7OPG1duJJWLVwjALNo7v6P27F4TeK1Q3KKWMqMPuIA62YcEufKnk2ZVVw2l77z1brtVqY98QlsWfQq_26eKjV2w1fy4aU7KTpmav3b50JVCVUImk/s400/Completed+Dress+-+Flat+%25283%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A deep hem facing stitched on the dress.</td></tr>
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The last step was to add closures, and rather than deal with tiny hooks and thread eyes, I just used snaps. Yes, I know it's cheating...and the dress could also use a collar. But hey, at least it was finished in time for the trip, and even has a silk belt and mother of pearl buckle to complete the look! <br />
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Here's what the dress looks like all together:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJGy9ioM_o8dLYXXlo1s_mzltMWEPNkpx5hC8I_Q_zewGBCCRbwL4sYcAYBaTuhncvVmCw9rCuvgIcHlOFaIN3oMdU4FXrq0bn9UvpxmRn2nbjx0pdW806sJc1cJooraG0_lPVNwJd5_Q/s1600/Bodice+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJGy9ioM_o8dLYXXlo1s_mzltMWEPNkpx5hC8I_Q_zewGBCCRbwL4sYcAYBaTuhncvVmCw9rCuvgIcHlOFaIN3oMdU4FXrq0bn9UvpxmRn2nbjx0pdW806sJc1cJooraG0_lPVNwJd5_Q/s400/Bodice+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJbGsDSntdTGVtqklcikyJiceGlgEQUfeDXCwUeyjtH83cl77T0oWrxjSEqPZWSgLjY0u6OhemI72bmEZiztaRdBkQFntAOgeDNh15_CjglgJC7lnPCoYNgTQu7T2cj_9M1x_HAX3CP0U/s1600/Bodice+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJbGsDSntdTGVtqklcikyJiceGlgEQUfeDXCwUeyjtH83cl77T0oWrxjSEqPZWSgLjY0u6OhemI72bmEZiztaRdBkQFntAOgeDNh15_CjglgJC7lnPCoYNgTQu7T2cj_9M1x_HAX3CP0U/s400/Bodice+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Metal snaps for closures, but hooks and thread eyes would have worked too!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYiI36FL2Sz1A_qFFYauVAVFA_C0q_sdYf-9LOr6JUhRjeDTRparLjvtMTiOWDJLrdk-VkZWUlRxQym5avs1IDCPhsFWTQsDLQiTHmOIddQ9HACMjrAMyEkCuI-JCr-BWGnvZ82FdXDNA/s1600/Bodice+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYiI36FL2Sz1A_qFFYauVAVFA_C0q_sdYf-9LOr6JUhRjeDTRparLjvtMTiOWDJLrdk-VkZWUlRxQym5avs1IDCPhsFWTQsDLQiTHmOIddQ9HACMjrAMyEkCuI-JCr-BWGnvZ82FdXDNA/s400/Bodice+%25283%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The little, striped doll dress - completed!</td></tr>
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<b><u>Part III: Completed Project Shots</u></b></div>
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And since no costume construction post would be complete without them - here are the completed project shots, modeled by Ginny:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-j3rCtq45GyRlank5iMhH9nGrvmp8hiyz_V7JuNfV0p8sXEZojcHwqH65FQtHSmL2jh3RN4NPSwqzgmUlAK7mK_0Y9fbQWumgO-8-st08JZCll2ctG45rFPcYdH7WGcovcSUIW3_2LI4/s1600/Completed+Dress+-+Ginny+%25284%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="533" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-j3rCtq45GyRlank5iMhH9nGrvmp8hiyz_V7JuNfV0p8sXEZojcHwqH65FQtHSmL2jh3RN4NPSwqzgmUlAK7mK_0Y9fbQWumgO-8-st08JZCll2ctG45rFPcYdH7WGcovcSUIW3_2LI4/s640/Completed+Dress+-+Ginny+%25284%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Striped dress with silk belt and mother of pearl buckle.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view - <i>please excuse the very visible doll stand!</i></td></tr>
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For the actual outing, Ginny wore her plaid "work" petticoat, instead of the tucked one, to match mine, black stockings, and the most adorable, Victorian-style boots, which I ordered online:</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shoe shot! Unfortunately they don't really show up, but these are doll-sized, scalloped buttoning boots!</td></tr>
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And a couple of the finished dress, flat:</div>
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Styling doll hair is <i>so</i> much easier than doing ones own (at least for me, as I am most definitely hair styling challenged and rely on begging friends for anything more complicated than a basic bun!) Ginny has full front bangs, as I did when I was much younger, but her hair was just long enough for a braided bun and side twists: </div>
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<b>And that's all for this post, thank you for reading! </b></div>
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Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826523163416967557.post-18330647374374211292020-08-20T16:45:00.000-04:002020-08-20T16:47:42.115-04:00Past Summer's Visit to the Sonnenberg GardensThis summer has certainly been a summer like no other. I spent some time the other day organizing (and cleaning out) some folders on my computer, when I came across all of these pictures from an adventure Judy, my dear friend and partner-n-crime, and I went on a couple of summers ago...<i>cue the nostalgia!</i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stopping for a moment's rest on the bridge<br />
(Photograph by Judy J.)</td></tr>
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Yes, I'm disappointed that the day trips, historical events, and new places I had planned to explore had to be postponed or canceled; but that all seems to pale in comparison to the family, friends, and what would have been my seventh season at the living history museum that I'm missing. After traveling back and forth between two states for a couple years, I finally chose to make the move for convenience, having no idea I'd be sheltering-in-place by myself. At least there's zoom and other means of staying connected!<br />
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So while there won't be any in-person adventures with my partner-n-crime this summer, here's a virtual trip through a past summer's visit to the <a href="https://www.sonnenberg.org/">Sonnenberg Gardens & Mansion State Historic Park</a>:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Visit their website to plan your visit: <a href="https://www.sonnenberg.org/">Sonnenberg Gardens & Mansion</a></td></tr>
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Sonnenberg had been on my bucket list for long time, so Judy (in the truest Judy fashion) planned a whole weekend of it, hosting me at hers and making sure every detail of the trip was taken care of. I really couldn't ask for a better friend and partner-n-crime! </div>
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We decided to go in costume, despite the humid, mid-August weather. Judy had just finished her newest dress, an 1850s fan-front in the most gorgeous, purple serpentine print, and the gardens provided the perfect background to document it. I ended up pulling a dress from the closet and looped it over a striped petticoat for walking; while Ginny, the blog's traveling doll, had a new dress made to match mine. (Doll clothing is so much fun! I'll write a blog post on the little striped dress next...)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Judy & Ginny, the best dressed companions!</td></tr>
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Walking the grounds and themed gardens felt like traveling the world all in a 50-acre estate! The first garden we entered was the <a href="https://www.sonnenberg.org/sonnenberg-gardens-grounds/">Japanese Garden</a>, constructed in 1906 to look like a miniature landscape complete with a tea house:</div>
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Next stop was the <a href="https://www.sonnenberg.org/roman-bath/">Roman Bath</a><span id="goog_827458478"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a><span id="goog_827458479"></span>, which was built in 1914 with dressing rooms and restrooms for bathers, and a boiler house to filter and heat water from Canandaigua Lake for the swimming pool. Just standing there gave me flashbacks to Latin class (<i>Ecce Romani 43: At The Baths, anyone?</i>), I can only imagine what swimming there must have been like: </div>
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Nearby in the <a href="https://www.sonnenberg.org/the-sub-rosa-garden/">Sub-Rosa Garden</a>, there was a private alcove surrounded by boxwood hedges with a marble fountain and statuary inside. Judy looked so at peace here, I had to take a picture - there's just something about her pose and the atmosphere that makes this look like a period portrait! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlq9Gb2yOlFY68ij2pHaDgsuOh3GcSyjG50vqmAIrT12C2U582xqAGkjEAnJQRRO8chzgLZ5ZJhVpNfEAt-FL0oI1eJe0lwv3truWa0LbqNFbnNSD1ht7Qe2xzKdmYQpRJ6czOils4c4A/s1600/Judy+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="533" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlq9Gb2yOlFY68ij2pHaDgsuOh3GcSyjG50vqmAIrT12C2U582xqAGkjEAnJQRRO8chzgLZ5ZJhVpNfEAt-FL0oI1eJe0lwv3truWa0LbqNFbnNSD1ht7Qe2xzKdmYQpRJ6czOils4c4A/s640/Judy+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Whereas Ginny discovered a statue of her own size:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8JZT-I5_F6ukZhax64QLOdEjDMLEclxeQ3npUkz-zkNRSM-Rz2av7xFiq1-7FbZt3UorVmuQBc6ZZ2whMEczlROQQ6gUT1ExCnHxVUo-stXMKN8-MLMK8ivNsQrJoiiwd9chXlKpWirg/s1600/Ginny+at+Sonnenberg+%25284%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1357" data-original-width="1600" height="338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8JZT-I5_F6ukZhax64QLOdEjDMLEclxeQ3npUkz-zkNRSM-Rz2av7xFiq1-7FbZt3UorVmuQBc6ZZ2whMEczlROQQ6gUT1ExCnHxVUo-stXMKN8-MLMK8ivNsQrJoiiwd9chXlKpWirg/s400/Ginny+at+Sonnenberg+%25284%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Speaking of statues, over in the <a href="https://www.sonnenberg.org/the-italian-garden/">Italian Garden</a>, there was no lion 'bout having fun as we all took turns posing with this fierce king of the garden:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFOjpcKiF521gZv4MkSKNeLAabjjCEfb8p_JMCwShLEu7BM8K5nr638RL4zImDXhyJyO24ez1N7DBn9I5wo1yFqvEkjwPibL1kml6ojmccG7b6uDF00WhbrGy4Jig-wgBp7PDIAJuUOrU/s1600/Not+Lion+%2527Bout+Having+Fun%2521+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFOjpcKiF521gZv4MkSKNeLAabjjCEfb8p_JMCwShLEu7BM8K5nr638RL4zImDXhyJyO24ez1N7DBn9I5wo1yFqvEkjwPibL1kml6ojmccG7b6uDF00WhbrGy4Jig-wgBp7PDIAJuUOrU/s640/Not+Lion+%2527Bout+Having+Fun%2521+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not lion 'bout having fun!<br />
(Photograph by Judy J.)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkAtoYHvlaFacg4GhAca07eeKlpcwtwsFZQU2hpyVFWqQrF9p6WbfUU53-vJVFkEPii-DkarAdcdfFveMmFLya_QUTgeSMl5N8RfR8CUrdNEE5a3w9woYQW7frotaExxD1ySgvIxY6G1I/s1600/Not+Lion+%2527Bout+Having+Fun%2521+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1195" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkAtoYHvlaFacg4GhAca07eeKlpcwtwsFZQU2hpyVFWqQrF9p6WbfUU53-vJVFkEPii-DkarAdcdfFveMmFLya_QUTgeSMl5N8RfR8CUrdNEE5a3w9woYQW7frotaExxD1ySgvIxY6G1I/s400/Not+Lion+%2527Bout+Having+Fun%2521+%25282%2529.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And another thanks to Judy!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwQiUzIAUCInKqzwvbW65ny0yTe181o1kiMihNfUtFlzGiOrfbvI3xaPeU0PDL8VFUAYRzTEu_pyMkPC1OMRsE-TTXi5UfOX5Ydj0ujQKrlunkE7JiDRqMpcsvZCirnF6KA5E3NdwYFoM/s1600/Judy+%252B+Ginny+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwQiUzIAUCInKqzwvbW65ny0yTe181o1kiMihNfUtFlzGiOrfbvI3xaPeU0PDL8VFUAYRzTEu_pyMkPC1OMRsE-TTXi5UfOX5Ydj0ujQKrlunkE7JiDRqMpcsvZCirnF6KA5E3NdwYFoM/s400/Judy+%252B+Ginny+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Taking a moment in the Blue & White Garden, which lies just off the veranda:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4IaGmxpJsjja8i0q1om6iOKn8fFaJxzG_NRVhlEuABGtCmj2nOrO2c6VTy-wIFYenECWULe7DLxX6C20PS9UdIutBycszUI0z9-BcAqcN5-h9cbrfxTSkc8rC6J68LVHHWQjb9cln70Q/s1600/In+the+Garden.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4IaGmxpJsjja8i0q1om6iOKn8fFaJxzG_NRVhlEuABGtCmj2nOrO2c6VTy-wIFYenECWULe7DLxX6C20PS9UdIutBycszUI0z9-BcAqcN5-h9cbrfxTSkc8rC6J68LVHHWQjb9cln70Q/s640/In+the+Garden.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just a girl & her doll.<br />
(Photography by Judy J.)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9CFTh4oDtFCfi6MVu6yksy72H5krpjr-Ck4aNsEW6K4XPDWCAPi_5XVVlMIrCZH2TuduX3iziHbqh9UtOzGL7ydOJPqsR5c0NGVedwLKk443jI-KPj7YT_zlFR5YnLtedsYacFmCvpUU/s1600/Ginny+at+Sonnenberg+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9CFTh4oDtFCfi6MVu6yksy72H5krpjr-Ck4aNsEW6K4XPDWCAPi_5XVVlMIrCZH2TuduX3iziHbqh9UtOzGL7ydOJPqsR5c0NGVedwLKk443jI-KPj7YT_zlFR5YnLtedsYacFmCvpUU/s400/Ginny+at+Sonnenberg+%25281%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ginny looking through the metal entrance gate, <br />
which was replaced in a 2007 restoration, having been missing since World War II</td></tr>
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I think we both can agree that the Rock Garden was a favorite, providing many photo opportunities:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtDJ8uHAhUMcHh13oAmOSTMIFhTJWzFPYyTuoN2Rpn8YovfgTz9tD08Kbbtcoqsw7jZGIuegWOxyWTO9wNHZjRf3ees-QO-ByaYBlQyH8OZG7qMyHpFDV21SJKKW8tTNx-sHMXbMhezkc/s1600/Judy+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="533" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtDJ8uHAhUMcHh13oAmOSTMIFhTJWzFPYyTuoN2Rpn8YovfgTz9tD08Kbbtcoqsw7jZGIuegWOxyWTO9wNHZjRf3ees-QO-ByaYBlQyH8OZG7qMyHpFDV21SJKKW8tTNx-sHMXbMhezkc/s640/Judy+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was one of my favorites of you from that weekend, Judy!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic4pBByoThYJEjh_xsuIsV9ajGqLffxkPfUWphpw_Wb9EjCJaWRMB6kDY3Gk4aO-4_e3nHtyAntbQG-AGqak5Of9JgVG-cKuarGgyXX_rzry4SNhhc08UWiFOnkEKIkAGiYkgPgxfzKd4/s1600/Ginny+%252B+Me+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic4pBByoThYJEjh_xsuIsV9ajGqLffxkPfUWphpw_Wb9EjCJaWRMB6kDY3Gk4aO-4_e3nHtyAntbQG-AGqak5Of9JgVG-cKuarGgyXX_rzry4SNhhc08UWiFOnkEKIkAGiYkgPgxfzKd4/s400/Ginny+%252B+Me+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Taking turns under the arch:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpkxoRjNmEc5yyFtO4eIyrSyf0efP7kWfC8hVgTvLC_tDKmRZFeSIaQhyphenhyphenQzpdLVz-5ZBIfEha0utLZneqA9yu8sfihnlRQgQL5uK1pxrWQK-zdLjHvezxaWkqUkHt2vanarT0oigz-U5k/s1600/Judy+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpkxoRjNmEc5yyFtO4eIyrSyf0efP7kWfC8hVgTvLC_tDKmRZFeSIaQhyphenhyphenQzpdLVz-5ZBIfEha0utLZneqA9yu8sfihnlRQgQL5uK1pxrWQK-zdLjHvezxaWkqUkHt2vanarT0oigz-U5k/s400/Judy+%25283%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP5ht6fw7tjAXzNSIWtvMLIN4bS_Ww-5Mh5aR4ZQK87wjWNcrp5J2NoyBjhk0m2LLHgOgCVLiWJVfcNvlqnHYmY3CEZIIiKWKnpIVeYh0Z9UVmqBNfG7SkxJeJg6o_ZpB_PSQcYsGU5-Y/s1600/Ginny+%252B+Me+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP5ht6fw7tjAXzNSIWtvMLIN4bS_Ww-5Mh5aR4ZQK87wjWNcrp5J2NoyBjhk0m2LLHgOgCVLiWJVfcNvlqnHYmY3CEZIIiKWKnpIVeYh0Z9UVmqBNfG7SkxJeJg6o_ZpB_PSQcYsGU5-Y/s400/Ginny+%252B+Me+%25282%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was one of the last stops for the day, <br />
so both girl and doll were feeling rather melted from the day's heat...</td></tr>
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We also took the opportunity to explore the historic <a href="https://www.sonnenberg.org/the-sonnenberg-mansion/">Sonnenberg Mansion</a>, which is a 40-room Queen Anne-style mansion - and it was equally as impressive on the inside as the gardens outside. Unfortunately, I don't have many pictures, so you'll just have to visit to see it for yourself! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Mdm_AsAzEWHLBryIzIpAB2-05sivEf8dBgH74nTYkq6_t5KB9drVwgU2UpUVn1OD_hANU05G4cSfYHEYHIj0gmTVOpwE6a4aXUayjZ4iCgAbx7kf0izTxKAjBoPobRALaI9ksK6rzs0/s1600/Ginny+at+Sonnenberg+%25286%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1280" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Mdm_AsAzEWHLBryIzIpAB2-05sivEf8dBgH74nTYkq6_t5KB9drVwgU2UpUVn1OD_hANU05G4cSfYHEYHIj0gmTVOpwE6a4aXUayjZ4iCgAbx7kf0izTxKAjBoPobRALaI9ksK6rzs0/s400/Ginny+at+Sonnenberg+%25286%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeMOkkM4LNGvtchdaLWuBMgQC9NgbMWoyKqi5zZjQ9aarr_9MXGk5EZlP4ZJ58qc1SPfMlVM8nrIXJygYwhcLTgIOWm08Vfk3wGgNGtzBBlx8EETycQV2bJNkyePRPNBFlwwCc-wQ2Hw0/s1600/Tea+for+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeMOkkM4LNGvtchdaLWuBMgQC9NgbMWoyKqi5zZjQ9aarr_9MXGk5EZlP4ZJ58qc1SPfMlVM8nrIXJygYwhcLTgIOWm08Vfk3wGgNGtzBBlx8EETycQV2bJNkyePRPNBFlwwCc-wQ2Hw0/s400/Tea+for+2.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tea for two?</td></tr>
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A very kind visitor took a couple of group pictures for us:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ584wcFoT4XHbaAxb2QbABUnRsz4iKPD5mXcJm6f8dVV5R4Bv1HuYJJd7zpQoAMU37oeVII8E-g4mSfG49X012s6AHMq9mEBrShgWBIFARgSu6iWnpimC6tVRyUH1JgHpGYxbHTDrLv8/s1600/Judy+%252B+Me+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ584wcFoT4XHbaAxb2QbABUnRsz4iKPD5mXcJm6f8dVV5R4Bv1HuYJJd7zpQoAMU37oeVII8E-g4mSfG49X012s6AHMq9mEBrShgWBIFARgSu6iWnpimC6tVRyUH1JgHpGYxbHTDrLv8/s640/Judy+%252B+Me+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Judy, Ginny & me outside the Sonnenberg Mansion</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8raHnzhs5AbpW-Z1udhidfRmyDdzx8L0hSY07_wNYYIfI8mNOYSOsvF5K84fVeXA9Kz-LsS6eT5fMHIKyEhvTeZYMXkx1w2DctuxaDZf8ztKEU0C_5I5V8HsPeotFwwngDz3zkW-GSiY/s1600/Judy+%252B+Me+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8raHnzhs5AbpW-Z1udhidfRmyDdzx8L0hSY07_wNYYIfI8mNOYSOsvF5K84fVeXA9Kz-LsS6eT5fMHIKyEhvTeZYMXkx1w2DctuxaDZf8ztKEU0C_5I5V8HsPeotFwwngDz3zkW-GSiY/s400/Judy+%252B+Me+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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And that sums up the day - many, <i>many </i>thanks to Judy for hosting this marvelous adventure! If you're ever in the area, make sure to plan a visit to the <a href="https://www.sonnenberg.org/">Sonnenberg Gardens and Mansion State Historic Park</a>! </div>
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Here's a happy twirl for good measure:</div>
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<b>Thanks for reading!</b></div>
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Anneliesehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04599491060500377688noreply@blogger.com0