A Pink Sateen Corset with Pearl Flossing

"Properly constructed, corsets are, as articles of dress, 

the most beneficial that can be constructed" 

~ Madam Roxey A. Caplin, 

Health and Beauty:Women and Her Clothing (1864)

Time replace the old corset with a new one of blush pink sateen with pearl satin floss!

Construction Details

Like my previous model, I began with the pattern pieces from Past Patterns #708 and made modifications as necessary.  I was also able to apply some of the construction techniques that I learned in my independent study in theatrical corsetry.  From the most basic grading of seam allowances to reduce bulk, to pressing over a ham to mold the gussets (preventing those ugly wrinkles when wearing), and a better method of laying in gussets, being neat in every step of the making does count! 

Corset exterior (left) and interior (right)

For this corset, I chose to use a sturdy cotton drill with a blush colored cotton sateen as the fashion fabric.  Each individual piece was cut three times, twice from the drill for an inner and outer lining, and once from the sateen with an extra quarter inch seam allowance.  The outer layer of drill and sateen were then flat lined and basted together so that they would act as one piece.

I also added a modified "waist stay" by edge stitching a piece of twill tape to the inner lining pieces, which should help take any strain from lacing.  Next time, I would add a true waist stay, which would be a continuous piece of twill tape, usually held in by the boning tape (not needed in a double-layer corset).

The pictures above show one of the back hip gussets.  After thread tracing the stitch lines, the seam allowances were pressed under, slashing at the point, and then the gussets were top stitched into place.  This particular method of setting in gussets was a major "ah ha" moment for me during my independent study - no more ugly tucks or puckers at the points, yay!  The process was repeated for all sixteen gussets and all of the seam allowances were further graded to reduce bulk.  

Next, I installed the slot and stud busk at the front and size 00 grommets at the back, cleanly and conveniently joining the inner and outer pieces.  The sides were "log cabin" seamed, which encases the seam allowances, to finish the interior, and eight flat steel bones were added for support.  The top and bottom were bound with self-fabric bias tape and securely whip stitched in place.  

Finally, for the finishing touches, I flossed the corset with a shimmery, pearl-colored satin floss.  Flossing is a functional embroidery traditionally used to help hold corset bones in place.  This floss, however, shredded with every stitch, so I ended up switching to a cotton DMC floss for the gusset points (otherwise I'd still be fighting with that terrible satin floss!)  All that aside, I think the finished product turned out nicely!

Completed Project Pictures

Front view.

Front exterior view.

Back exterior view.

Back view.

Close up of the front with busk and flossing details. 

Now onto make a new chemise and drawers to complete the set!