Making an 1860s Wrapper

“MORNING DRESS—The most suitable dress for breakfast, is a wrapper made to fit the figure loosely, and the material, excepting when the winter weather requires woolen goods, should be of chintz, gingham, brilliante, or muslin" - The Ladies' Book of Etiquette, and Manual of Politeness by Florence Hartley, 1860 

When I give a "Getting Dressed" presentation, I like to travel in style, comfort, and modesty, donning a wrapper to drive my horseless carriage to and from the locations.  (Since we are just meeting, showing up in only a chemise and stockings might be quite scandalous!)  I was in desperate need of a new 1860s wrapper, as this is probably my most popular and frequently booked decade, and this blog post will detail the project. 

I started designing and sewing the wrapper at the end of February, and finished by the beginning of March.  The first occasion I had to wear it was for a more recent "Getting Dressed in the 1860s" presentation in April for the Presbyterian Village at North Church, which is an independent senior living community.  They were a wonderful audience too, asking lots of questions and sharing some of their own fashion memories, especially from the 1950s and '60s.  Special connections like these are why I love doing fashion programs, and historical clothing is such an excellent tool to discuss all kinds of social history - like gender, identity, and self-expression - as well as economic, labor, political, and technological advancements.  I have a couple more 1860s programs lined up this summer, so the wrapper should get some more wear. 

Historical Inspiration

First a definition: what is a wrapper?  A wrapper (also called a morning dress/robe) is a semi-fitted or loose dressing gown that women would wear in the morning or evening, with or without their corset.  Wrappers tended to follow the lines of a fashionable dress, but were considered informal dress - i.e. best worn in the privacy of one's home for breakfast, chores and domestic duties, or lounging around, but not in front of company.  Some wrappers were fastened from the neck to the waist and stitched shut from the waist to the floor, while others were left open through the skirt to reveal a decorative, embroidered petticoat.  Due to their relaxed fit, many had drawstrings at the waist, or could be tied with a belt, making them perfect for maternity wear too. 

Here's another excerpt from The Ladies' Book of Etiquette, and Manual of Politeness by Florence Hartley, 1860, describing the (un)suitability of wrappers for receiving morning calls: 

DRESS FOR MORNING VISITS—A lady should never receive her morning callers in a wrapper, unless they call at an unusually early hour, or some unexpected demand upon her time makes it impossible to change her dress after breakfast…A wrapper made with handsome trimming, open over a pretty white skirt, may be worn with propriety; but the simple dress worn for breakfast, or in the exercise of domestic duties, is not suitable for the parlor when receiving visits of ceremony in the morning. 

The "simple dress" worn "in the exercise of domestic duties" could be made from a more serviceable calico, as opposed to finer wools and silks.  Printed cotton wrappers often featured bolder colors and busy patterns, which made them both easily launderable and helped to hide dirt and stains from household chores.  

When looking at extant examples, I was feeling particularly inspired by those with velvet accents, like collars, cuffs, and patch pockets, and will share a few below.  If you're looking for more examples or other styles, feel free to take a look through my 19th Century Wrappers Pinterest Board. 

This first example comes from a Pinterest upload, and I would love more information on the garment.  The caption provided only that it was displayed at the Antioch Historical Society, and I assume belongs to a private collection.  I just love the bold print, and the red silk collar and patch pockets, which appear to be trimmed with black ribbon (maybe silk or velvet?) and fringe. 

Display at the Antioch Historical Society
Image source: Pinterest, unidentified owner/collection 

The second example was originally an Ebay auction item, which the seller listed as an "1860s Civil War Era Dress," but it is actually an early-1870s wrapper.  Again, I was responding to the large striped print, with velvet accents, including collar, wide cuffs, patch pockets, buttons, and belt (which should be placed higher, in the gap between the buttons...)

Anyways, here's the description form the Ebay seller: "This elegant antique dress is sewn of the most exquisite wool fabric with paisley pattern fabric…Ever so soft deep chocolate brown silk velvet collar, pockets, sleeve cuffs, belt with matching silk velvet over wooden buttons. The lower dress skirt offers the typical fullness needed for hoop skirts and bustle."

Early 1870s Wrapper, originally an Ebay Listing

And finally, a third example from the MET, described as a "quintessential dressing gown of the period with military-style cuffs, cord belt and paisley pattern:"

Dressing Gown, ca.1875, MET Museum (accession number: 2009.300.124) 

For my own design, I wanted to complement the large striped print with equally bold, velvet cuffs and collar, as well as a wide skirt to accommodate a hoop (if desired).  

Construction Details

This was a stash-busting project, meaning that all of the materials came from the stash and that I did not have to buy anything for its making.  For the fashion fabric, I chose the most gorgeous reproduction cotton - called "Red Charlotte Serpentine" by Michelle Yeo (Pattern C8433) from the Penny Rose Designer Fabric Collection (I believe I had ~6 yards) - deep red cotton velvet for accents, and cotton muslin for lining.  I also used vintage gimp trim (passementerie) to mimic the serpentine print. 

For the design, I knew I wanted a fitted back with a full, gauged skirt; and a loosely-fitted, long front with a half lining and two double-pointed ("fisheye") darts on each side to provide gentle shaping.  For the pattern, I used a modified version of my bodice block and coat sleeves, and the front piece references the general shaping in Laughing Moon Pattern #118: Wrapper, Work Dress, or Morning Gown 1840-1860.  The cuffs were drafted off my coat sleeve, and I also patterned a wide collar off the neckline measurements.  I decided I'd leave the wrapper open to hem, in case I made a fancy petticoat; and to close/cinch the waist with a self-fabric belt. 

After patterning and cutting out all of the fashion and lining pieces, as well as the velvet pieces with their facings, I started with assembling the back pieces.  The back was flatlined with cotton muslin, and then I piped the waistline in preparation for the skirt.  The skirt is just two rectangular panels seamed together, gauged, and whipstitched to the back bodice. 

The skirt is made from two panels of fabric, seamed and gauged (cartridge pleated).
The fullness will accommodate a hoop, if desired. 

I also added a 1" twill tape casing for a drawstring, following extant examples I have seen, which will come in handy for keeping the wrapper sitting at the waist when worn over a hoop. 

The finished back, flatlined with muslin - notice the 1" twill tape casing for a drawstring.

Finished back from the outside - notice the piping at the waist.
I also squared the side seams so everything would be on the straight of grain.

With the back finished, I turned my attention to assembling the fronts.  Since my fabric was not wide enough to cut the full front pieces, I pieced two triangular gussets at the sides.  I serged the raw edges for a neat finish, seamed, and pressed them open to combine the two pieces into one.  I also hemmed the half-lining, and then flatlined it with the bodice:

Detail showing both the side piecing and the bottom edge of half-lining.

For some gentle shaping, I marked two double-pointed darts (also called "fisheye" darts) to help contour the fronts.  Double-pointed darts are often used on dresses and jackets that are nipped-in and fitted at the waist, while providing shaping for the bust and hips. 

View of the half-lining and marking the double-pointed or "fisheye" darts.

To ensure smoothly-stitched (no puckers) darts, these must be stitched from the middle to the top point; then, returning to the middle and overlapping the stitching, and sewing to the bottom point.  Avoid backstitching at the points, and instead, much like a standard or single dart, decrease the stitch-length about an inch from the top, and tie off the thread tails.  (Here's an simple, illustrated tutorial on Sewing Darts.)  I also smoothed the curve of my darts and clipped to the centers, so they would lay nicely when pressed over a tailor's ham to the side seams. 

I curved my double-darts to avoid a harsh line; and stitched them from the middle to each point.
Instead of backstitching, I decreased the stitch length at the tops and tied the thread tails.

Here are the double-darts clipped and pressed -
always press darts over a tailor's ham to support the curves and avoid puckers.

View of the darts from the outside - notice contouring for the bust and hips.

Next, I joined the sides, stitching the fronts to the back, and pressing the long seams open: 

Attaching the fronts to the back at the side seams.

Unfortunately, I seemed to stop taking in-progress pictures at this point - so I will just describe the next steps.  To finish the fronts, I folded under the facings and whipstitched them in place, since I intended to leave the front open (in case I want to display a petticoat).  I also tried the wrapper on, measuring and pinning up the hem, which was also finished by hand. 

For the coat sleeves, I lined them with muslin, and piped the armscyes of the bodice.  I added deep velvet cuffs, which were lined with the fashion fabric, and then trimmed with the gimp braid.  I made sure to edgestitch everything to keep the linings from rolling outwards.  Here are the finished coat sleeves, right before setting them into the wrapper: 

Coat sleeves with deep velvet cuffs, trimmed with vintage gimp braid.

To finish the neckline, I made a matching velvet collar, also lined with the fashion fabric, and trimmed with the vintage gimp braid.  I used self-fabric bias tape to enclose the seam and raw edges, and act as a narrow neckline facing.  Two metal hooks and thread eyes were added to fasten the wrapper at the collar, and a self-fabric belt was made to accent (and close) the waist.  The belt closes with two metal hooks and thread eyes as well. 

After adding a matching velvet collar and self-fabric belt, the wrapper was done!

Completed Project Pictures

I am still waiting for an occasion to take some nicer pictures in a historical location...but for now, pictures on a dressform will have to do.  I promise the wrapper fits better on me, and was worn over a chemise, drawers, and petticoat for my presentation.  It also fits over a hoop, if desired. 

Finished 1860s wrapper, front detail. 
There are two metal hooks and thread eyes to close at the collar, and a self-fabric belt to cinch the waist. 

1860s wrapper, full-length front views.

1860s wrapper, side views - notice the gores and piecing of the skirt.

1860s wrapper, back views - the skirt is very full at the back to accommodate a hoop.

1860s wrapper, back detail shot.

And that's a wrap to this wrapper post!  Our next sewing project will probably be an 1830s wrapper for another "Getting Dressed" presentation. 

As for the next blogging content, I'll be switching over to Patreon (many thanks to our loyal, patient patrons) to create a two-part series on the making on an 1860s "Bloomer Costume" or reform dress.  I recently completed and sported the look for a living history presentation on the Chinese participants in the American Civil War at the New-York Historical Society - which was the perfect kick-off to Asian American, Native Hawaiian, & Pacific Islander Heritage Month! 

Thank you for reading & special thanks to our generous patrons!

Like what you see here and want to support the creation of future content, historical costumes, and fashion history programming?  Consider joining us over on Patreon with pledges starting at $2/month, and you'll also unlock exclusive content like bonus blog posts and more!  Follow @youngsewphisticate on Facebook & Instagram for regular project updates.

Making a Set of Tucked Petticoats

"SKIRTS.  Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half breadths in them, according to the width of the material of which they are made : they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, tucks, or worked muslin." - The Workwoman's Guide, 1838 (page 104) 

Back to blogging after an unintended 7-month hiatus!  In this second post for today, I will be documenting how I made a new set of tucked petticoats, and providing a step-by-step tutorial for making your own plain or tucked petticoats, appropriate for 1830s-50s impressions.  

Believe it or not, I have been making do and mending the same set of mid-19th century petticoats since 2015 (see this throw-back post from the blog archive: 1850s Undergarments).  While corsets have come and gone, and my Civil War Era petticoats have already been replaced once, it is past time to refresh the pre-hoop undergarments.  With an upcoming "Getting Dressed in the 1830s" later in May, (and an 1840s version already scheduled for 2025), I definitely needed a new, crisp, and presentable set of tucked petticoats, made from my favorite pimatex cotton (which may last another decade!)

Historical Inspiration

Petticoats (also called "underskirts" or simply "skirts") are often constructed in a similar manner as the outermost or dress' skirt.  Layering multiple petticoats adds fullness and body, supporting the dress and creating a soft bell or dome shape, as was fashionable in the Romantic and Crinoline Eras.  

According to The Workwoman's Guide, published in 1838, petticoats are "made in various ways" and the text continues to offer the following paragraph description on page 104: 

SKIRTS. Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half breadths in them, according to the width of the material of which they are made : they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, tucks, or worked muslin. Sometimes they are bought with cotton runners, woven in them at the bottom, six or eight nails deep, which make the dress stand out, and if the gown is of a clinging material, causes it to hang better. Skirts are generally made with the opening behind, but for elderly persons or servants, it is at the sides, the seams being left unsewed for about four nails from the top ; sometimes they are furnished with pockets on one or both sides ; for a description of which, see Pockets. Skirts may be set on to the body, either equally full all round, plain under the arms, and full at the front and back, or with all the fulness behind. Servants frequently wear their petticoats merely set into a tape round the waist, without any body, and with or without tape shoulder-straps, to keep them up. Under or middle petticoats are also made in this manner.

(Aside:  I also found the descriptions of nursing petticoats interesting, on page 105, which is somewhat reminiscent of 18th century petticoat construction.)

This style of petticoat - with a full skirt cut from rectangular panels, set onto a waistband, closing at the center back, and finished at the bottom with a deep hem and/or tucks - continues to be worn throughout the mid-19th century until gored skirts return (~1864).  I rarely see tapes or shoulder-straps by the late 1840s, which could have to do with the return of the natural waist.  Here are two extant examples, one plain and one with tucks, from the Costume Institute's collections at the Metropolitan Museum of Art: 

Left: Petticoat, 1850s. MET Museum, accession number: C.I.60.11.2
Right: Petticoat, ca.1860. MET Museum, accession number: C.I.37.46.103

Construction Details

Now for a tutorial and step-by-step instructions on making your own plain or tucked petticoats for 1830s-1850s impressions, using my own as the examples (see italics): 

Step One: Measurements & Materials 

When it comes to choosing materials, I like to use a tightly woven cotton like pimatex because it's crisp, smooth, and durable for many years of wear.  Otherwise, look for a quality bleached cotton or linen, while others recommend stiffer materials like cotton organdy.  For this project, I ordered 10 yards of 45" wide cotton pimatex from Dharma Trading Co, and then machine washed (to shrink and remove factory sizing), dried on high heat, and pressed the fabric. 

For measurements, there are several considerations:  first, determine the finished length.  Ideally, you'll want your petticoat to fall between lower calf-length to above the ankle, and should be 1"-2" shorter than your dress.  Measure from waist to hem at your center front, sides, and center back over any addition supports/padding that you plan to wear with your petticoats.  You may find that the back length is several inches longer than the front.  Use the longest measurement for the next step 

To your longest length, add the following allowances: 

• Hem allowance: 1/2" turn under + 1"-5" for a deep hem
• Decorative tucks (optional): each tuck will take up twice as much length; for instance, a 1/2" tuck will take 1" of fabric.  So, calculate your number of tucks, and multiply times two. 
• Waistline allowance: if you are enclosing the top of the petticoat, add 1/2" seam allowance.  If you are planning to fold over the edge to gauge (cartridge pleat), add 1"-2" allowance. 

Together, these will be the cut length.  For my 5-tuck petticoat, I wanted the finished lengths to be 35" at the center front, and 36" at the center back.  Subtracting 1.5" for the waistband from 36", my skirt length would be 34.5".  To that, I added 1" for the top, 3.5" for the hem, and 5" (for 5 tucks @ 1/2"deep), making my cut length 44" total. 

Next, you'll want to calculate the width of your petticoat.  For the 1830s-50s, the fullness should be between 120"-140".  (Check out Kenna's fabulous hem study here: Hem Circumference Resource).  I like to work selvedge to selvedge whenever possible, so I used 3 lengths of the 45" pimatex cotton, for a total ~135" hem. 

Step Two: Cut & Seam Panels

I chose to seam my panels by machine for speed, though straight seams are great for practicing hand-stitching.  Finish the seams as you please, which could include flat-felling, overcasting by hand, or serging to prevent raveling.  Since I am using the selvages, I just pressed my seams open. 

Leave at least 12"-15" free at the center back seam for an opening (to help get the petticoat on).  If your center back is on a seam, finish the sides with a 1/4" double-folded hem, and reinforce the end of the stitching with a bar tack. 

Otherwise, you will need to cut the 12"-15" slit, and finish the raw edges with binding, placket, or turning a double-folded hem and reinforcing the end.  I used the later method, and finished the bottom with a button hole stitch and thread bar, so the slit would not continue to rip.  The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing (page 27) has excellent directions for this "binding slits" technique: 

The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing (page 27)
[Click on image to enlarge]

Step Three: Hemming 

Fold-over and press 1/2", then measure, pin, and stitch your hem.  My hem was 3" deep, and stitched by machine.  I save the hand-hemming for skirt hems, or anything that would show from the outside.  

Step Four: Stitch Tucks 

Tucks are essentially just folds stitched in fabric, which can be as tiny or deep, and spaced as close or far apart as you please.  When added to the hem of a petticoat, they serve both a decorative and functional purpose - adding visual interest and helping hold skirts out (so they don’t tangle around the wearer’s legs). 

Measuring from the hem, I pinned and pressed a fold for the first tuck.  I was using 1/2” tucks, placed 4” above the hem - which means measuring 5” up from the hem. 

Measuring the first tuck.

Next, stitch a 1/2” away from the folded edge for a 1/2” tuck.  Once stitched, press the fold down towards the hem, completing the first tuck.

For second tuck, I used the stitch line from the first tuck as my guide (rather than measuring from the hem again).  I wanted a second 1/2" tuck spaced 1" from the first, so, my next fold line was 2” above the stitch line.  Using a ruler, press and pin the next tuck; then stitch another 1/2” from the folded edge.

Adding a second tuck.

Repeat the process until all of your tucks are stitched.  I put three, 1/2" tucks on one petticoat, and five, 1/2" tucks on the other. 

Adding more tucks.

Finished 3" hem with five (1/2") tucks.

Step Five: Balance the Waistline 

To balance the top edge of the skirt, measure from the hem to waistline, and mark your center front length, sides, and back lengths.  For me, this was 35" at the center front, 35.5" at the sides, and 36" at the center back for the longer, 5-tuck petticoat; and 34" CF, 34.5" SS, and 35" CB for the 3-tuck petticoat.  Using a fabric marking tool, connect these measurements with a smooth line, and either cut (if you are planning to enclose the raw edges), or fold along this line (if you are gauging/cartridge pleating). 

While the skirt is still flat, I like to finish the top edges with either hand overcasting or serging to prevent raveling.  It can also be helpful to divide and mark the skirt into quarters or eights. 

Step Six: Gather or Gauge (Cartridge Pleat)

To gauge (cartridge pleat), use a strong thread like button twist (I use 6-strand embroidery floss), and stitch two, parallel lines of gathers.  You will be sewing through two layers of fabric, and want to start the first row of gathers about 1/4" from the folded, top edge.  The second line of gathers should be 1/4" - 3/8" below the first line of stitches. 

Gauging (cartridge pleating) requires two lines of parallel gathering stiches.

Step Seven: Prepare Waistband

To make the waistband, you will want to measure your waist over your stays or corset, and then add 1" for overlapping closures, and 1" for seam allowances - this is the total length.  For a 1" wide band, cut 3" (including 1/2" seam allowance; for a 1.5" wide band, cut 4" (including 1/2" SA).  Fold the waistband in half, right sides together, and stitch around the edges.  Turn right sides out, press flat, and stitch the waistband closed. 

Step Eight: Attach the Skirt

Begin by pinning your skirt to the waistband.  I like to mark quarters (and eights) on the waistband to line up with the skirt markings.  Evenly distribute the gathers across the waistband. 

Gathers evenly distributed and pinned to the waistband.

Pinning gathers, detail.

Stitch through each pleat's fold, securing the skirt to the waistband.  Every inch or so, I like to do a double stitch through a pleat for extra security.  Tie off the gathering threads when finished. 

To attach the skirt, stitch through the fold of each pleat, whipping it to the waistband.

Helpful illustration from The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing Book II (page 22)

Gauged skirt, outside.

Gauged skirt, inside.  

Finished petticoat!

Step Nine: Button & Button Hole Closure 

Add a button and button hole closure (or ties) to finish your petticoat. 

Pro tip: if you machine stitch your button holes, I like to apply a little fray check around the button hole to prevent fraying, in case I cut threads!  I also find this binds the stitching (like glue), and is less prone to stretching over time. 

Button & button hole closures

Enjoy your new tucked petticoat - or in my case, set of tucked petticoats! 

Completed Project Pictures

Here's the 3-tuck petticoat: 

Here's the 5-tuck petticoat overtop:

Tucks at the hem, detail.

Have you ever made a tucked petticoat?  Share your petticoat project, or if you have any questions on the process, in the comments below!

Button closure, detail.

Thank you for reading & special thanks to our generous patrons!

Like what you see here and want to support the creation of future content, historical costumes, and fashion history programming?  Consider joining us over on Patreon with pledges starting at $2/month, and you'll also unlock exclusive content like bonus blog posts and more!  Follow @youngsewphisticate on Facebook & Instagram for regular project updates.

Making an 1880s Plaid Ensemble: The Bodice

As I'm preparing for a busy Fall season of fashion and other programming, I realized we left off (way back in March!) with the making of the skirt and draperies for a three-piece, c.1883-86 plaid ensemble.  Not only did I finish the ensemble last Spring, I've worn it to two events - presenting "Getting Dressed in the 1880s" at the Niagara County Federation of Historical Agencies, and Spring Teas at the Rich-Twinn Octagon House.  In fact, I'll be doing another 1880s "Getting Dressed" program in November for the Wilson Historical Society, and will probably bring it out again with some new accessories.

So, for our next installment in the 1880s plaid ensemble series, today I present: making the bodice!  (The other blog posts in the series include: making the skirt & draperies, lobster tail bustle, underpetticoat, and flounced petticoat)

This project certainly took me out of my early/mid-19th century costume comfort zone, as bodices in the 1880s are longer and more tailored, featuring curve-hugging seams and pleats that flare out over the bustle.  After several mock-ups and pattern corrections, I ended up with a jacket-like bodice featuring a velvet front inlay, collar, and cuffs, which matched the deep navy in the plaid cotton.

Construction Details

Since I detailed the historical inspiration for this project in my previous post, we'll dive right into the construction of the bodice.  As a starting point, I traced the bodice pieces from Truly Victorian's 1884 French Vest Bodice (TV463) and selected the princess-length sleeve (which falls between the 3/4 and full-length sleeve).  Since I don't have a go-to late Victorian bodice block, and my dress form is too large for me to drape on, Truly Victorian patterns are a great place to start - but this bodice needed a whole lot of alterations to fit!  I also drafted a new collar and cuff pattern to fit with my design.  

1880s bodices had lots of pattern pieces -
I love using the 1" grid pattern interfacing, which helps with alterations in patterning;
and keeping fabric grainlines straight and matching plaids when cutting.

I can't remember the exact number of mock-ups this project took, but it was a ridiculously frustrating number...all of the pieces needed shortening lengthwise; the shoulders, neckline, and armscyes needed adjustments; darts and seams needed to be moved; and the hip areas needed widening to fit over the large bustle.  I also shortened the sleeves, so the elbow fit better, and drafted cuffs and a new collar with a 1" overlap at the front.  It might have been faster to draft a bodice block using a period manual, than the many paper pattern adjustments and mock-ups.  At least now I have a working pattern, which hopefully I can use again! 

I used leftover canvas for my mock-ups to mimic how structural the finished bodice will be with interlining, lining, and boning at each of the seams.  I found this also prevented stretching that might have happened with the single-layer muslin I typically use:

Truly Victorian's 1884 French Vest Bodice mock-up.
This pattern needed soo many adjustments - next time I would rather draft a block.

Mock-up from the back - I do love the curved princess seams and pleats at the back!

Another view of the back laid flat - here you can see just how many pieces these late Victorian bodices had! 
Notice how all of the pieces are perfectly shaped to the body.

I do clip and notch my seams even on mock-ups, 
as well as thread-trace where finishings (hems, center front closures, etc.)
will be to get the best idea of how the finished version will fit.

After all of the mock-ups and doing the final corrections to the pattern pieces, I was finally ready to cut the fashion fabric.  The grid pattern interfacing made matching plaids and keeping the grainline parallel a breeze - and I totally recommend Pellon's Tru-Grid for your more finicky projects.  I keep a bolt right by my cutting table, along with regular pattern paper and another bolt of cheap muslin.

I cut the bodice pieces from the same woven plaid cotton as the skirt and draperies, and used a sturdy cotton twill as the lining.  I cut the "vest" fronts, cuffs, and collar from matching navy velvet, which is a pain to work with, as well as corresponding cotton twill linings. 

Cutting the fashion fabric, which is a navy, rust, and white woven plaid cotton.
The lining is a sturdy, white cotton twill.

Once all of the pieces were cut out, I flat lined the fashion fabric and lining to treat them as one piece, and stitched all of the side seams.  With all of the curves, there was a lot of clipping and notching needed for the seams to lay flat, so I also hand-overcast all of the raw edges to prevent fraying.  

After flat lining the fashion fabric and lining, all of the side seams were stitched,
pressed open, notched, and overcast by hand to prevent fraying. 

Next, I turned my attention to the cuffs and sleeves.  The sleeves were lined with the same cotton lawn as the drapery to keep the sleeves from being too stiff.  The cuffs were finished the same way as the velvet "vest" fronts, and the collar, which is one of my favorite ways of neatly finishing edges.  First, stitch the side seams of the cuffs.  Line up the outer cuff edges, and stitch right sides together.  Grade seams to reduce bulk, clipping curves as needed, and understitch the lining so it won't show.  Slightly roll the lining seam to the inside, and press well. 

Preparing the cuffs to attach to the sleeves.
Understitching helps keep the lining tidy and hidden on the inside.

These sleeve cuffs are intended to be simple folding cuffs, so all I had to do was attach them to the sleeves, right side to wrong side, and fold them out for a clean finish.  The collar was attached to the bodice the same way, and I used a bias-cut strip of cotton muslin as a facing. 

Attaching the velvet sleeve cuffs.

To finish the interior of the bodice, I added boning cases to each of the side seams.  I used 6 spiral steels to support the curves.  

Interior of the bodice in progress, showing bone casings with spiral steels.
The hem of the bodice was also finished with a bias facing, much like the neckline.

I was on a tight deadline, and apparently didn't take pictures after this point - but I did finish the pleats, and secured the raw edges with twill tape.  I put a bias facing around the entire hem to finish the bottom edge; and stitched around 2-dozen small, metal hooks and thread eyes to close the bodice.  Two additional hooks and thread eyes close the overlapping velvet collar.  

Front view of the bodice in progress - almost done!

Bodice in progress, side view looking sharp!

Back view of the bodice in progress -
adding the boning created ripples along the back side seams...
does anyone have suggestions for avoiding this in the future?
I'm thinking of boning the center back, only, and not the curved side seams again!

As is period practice, I added a waist stay, which is a 1" cotton twill tape strip tacked at the waistline to help take strain off of the bodice seams at the waist, and to keep the bodice from shifting while wearing.  I also added a metal hook and thread eye for a closure. 

And with that, we have a finished 1880s plaid bodice with velvet accents!

Finished bodice, view of the front

Finished bodice, view of the back

American Duchess "Renoir" Scalloped Button Boots 

With the completion of this 1880s project from undergarments to day dress, and to celebrate journeying into a new era, I treated myself to something I've always wanted - American Duchess boots!  Specifically, the "Renior" scalloped, Victorian button boots in brown, which I've drooled over since they were first released.  American Duchess footwear is really out of my price range, but on par with other historical footwear pricing - and worth every penny in my book!  I made a special allowance this time, and used the speaker fees from both Spring programs to cover most of the cost. 

The buttons are difficult (but not impossible) to button by hand, and is much faster with the aid of a reproduction button hook, also sold by American Duchess: 

Using a reproduction button hook to put on my "Renior" button boots from American Duchess!

Overall, I'm really happy with this investment - having the proper footwear is important to me during "Getting Dressed" programs, when showing an ensemble from boots to bonnet, or head to toes. 

Completed Project Pictures 

And now, for the finished, three-piece c.1883-1886 plaid ensemble: 

I still want to make a matching velvet hat for the ensemble (hopefully before the November program), and maybe add velvet lapels to the bodice, and lace trim at the neckline and sleeve cuffs.  But otherwise, we're calling this project DONE - and I already have a million ideas for the next bustle dress(es)! 

Shortly after its completion, Maria, my sister and often photographer, came down to photo shoot with me in the historic town of LeRoy.  I'll share the results in a separate post this week, since this is already quite picture heavy! 

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