Making a Set of Tucked Petticoats

"SKIRTS.  Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half breadths in them, according to the width of the material of which they are made : they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, tucks, or worked muslin." - The Workwoman's Guide, 1838 (page 104) 

Back to blogging after an unintended 7-month hiatus!  In this second post for today, I will be documenting how I made a new set of tucked petticoats, and providing a step-by-step tutorial for making your own plain or tucked petticoats, appropriate for 1830s-50s impressions.  

Believe it or not, I have been making do and mending the same set of mid-19th century petticoats since 2015 (see this throw-back post from the blog archive: 1850s Undergarments).  While corsets have come and gone, and my Civil War Era petticoats have already been replaced once, it is past time to refresh the pre-hoop undergarments.  With an upcoming "Getting Dressed in the 1830s" later in May, (and an 1840s version already scheduled for 2025), I definitely needed a new, crisp, and presentable set of tucked petticoats, made from my favorite pimatex cotton (which may last another decade!)

Historical Inspiration

Petticoats (also called "underskirts" or simply "skirts") are often constructed in a similar manner as the outermost or dress' skirt.  Layering multiple petticoats adds fullness and body, supporting the dress and creating a soft bell or dome shape, as was fashionable in the Romantic and Crinoline Eras.  

According to The Workwoman's Guide, published in 1838, petticoats are "made in various ways" and the text continues to offer the following paragraph description on page 104: 

SKIRTS. Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half breadths in them, according to the width of the material of which they are made : they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, tucks, or worked muslin. Sometimes they are bought with cotton runners, woven in them at the bottom, six or eight nails deep, which make the dress stand out, and if the gown is of a clinging material, causes it to hang better. Skirts are generally made with the opening behind, but for elderly persons or servants, it is at the sides, the seams being left unsewed for about four nails from the top ; sometimes they are furnished with pockets on one or both sides ; for a description of which, see Pockets. Skirts may be set on to the body, either equally full all round, plain under the arms, and full at the front and back, or with all the fulness behind. Servants frequently wear their petticoats merely set into a tape round the waist, without any body, and with or without tape shoulder-straps, to keep them up. Under or middle petticoats are also made in this manner.

(Aside:  I also found the descriptions of nursing petticoats interesting, on page 105, which is somewhat reminiscent of 18th century petticoat construction.)

This style of petticoat - with a full skirt cut from rectangular panels, set onto a waistband, closing at the center back, and finished at the bottom with a deep hem and/or tucks - continues to be worn throughout the mid-19th century until gored skirts return (~1864).  I rarely see tapes or shoulder-straps by the late 1840s, which could have to do with the return of the natural waist.  Here are two extant examples, one plain and one with tucks, from the Costume Institute's collections at the Metropolitan Museum of Art: 

Left: Petticoat, 1850s. MET Museum, accession number: C.I.60.11.2
Right: Petticoat, ca.1860. MET Museum, accession number: C.I.37.46.103

Construction Details

Now for a tutorial and step-by-step instructions on making your own plain or tucked petticoats for 1830s-1850s impressions, using my own as the examples (see italics): 

Step One: Measurements & Materials 

When it comes to choosing materials, I like to use a tightly woven cotton like pimatex because it's crisp, smooth, and durable for many years of wear.  Otherwise, look for a quality bleached cotton or linen, while others recommend stiffer materials like cotton organdy.  For this project, I ordered 10 yards of 45" wide cotton pimatex from Dharma Trading Co, and then machine washed (to shrink and remove factory sizing), dried on high heat, and pressed the fabric. 

For measurements, there are several considerations:  first, determine the finished length.  Ideally, you'll want your petticoat to fall between lower calf-length to above the ankle, and should be 1"-2" shorter than your dress.  Measure from waist to hem at your center front, sides, and center back over any addition supports/padding that you plan to wear with your petticoats.  You may find that the back length is several inches longer than the front.  Use the longest measurement for the next step 

To your longest length, add the following allowances: 

• Hem allowance: 1/2" turn under + 1"-5" for a deep hem
• Decorative tucks (optional): each tuck will take up twice as much length; for instance, a 1/2" tuck will take 1" of fabric.  So, calculate your number of tucks, and multiply times two. 
• Waistline allowance: if you are enclosing the top of the petticoat, add 1/2" seam allowance.  If you are planning to fold over the edge to gauge (cartridge pleat), add 1"-2" allowance. 

Together, these will be the cut length.  For my 5-tuck petticoat, I wanted the finished lengths to be 35" at the center front, and 36" at the center back.  Subtracting 1.5" for the waistband from 36", my skirt length would be 34.5".  To that, I added 1" for the top, 3.5" for the hem, and 5" (for 5 tucks @ 1/2"deep), making my cut length 44" total. 

Next, you'll want to calculate the width of your petticoat.  For the 1830s-50s, the fullness should be between 120"-140".  (Check out Kenna's fabulous hem study here: Hem Circumference Resource).  I like to work selvedge to selvedge whenever possible, so I used 3 lengths of the 45" pimatex cotton, for a total ~135" hem. 

Step Two: Cut & Seam Panels

I chose to seam my panels by machine for speed, though straight seams are great for practicing hand-stitching.  Finish the seams as you please, which could include flat-felling, overcasting by hand, or serging to prevent raveling.  Since I am using the selvages, I just pressed my seams open. 

Leave at least 12"-15" free at the center back seam for an opening (to help get the petticoat on).  If your center back is on a seam, finish the sides with a 1/4" double-folded hem, and reinforce the end of the stitching with a bar tack. 

Otherwise, you will need to cut the 12"-15" slit, and finish the raw edges with binding, placket, or turning a double-folded hem and reinforcing the end.  I used the later method, and finished the bottom with a button hole stitch and thread bar, so the slit would not continue to rip.  The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing (page 27) has excellent directions for this "binding slits" technique: 

The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing (page 27)
[Click on image to enlarge]

Step Three: Hemming 

Fold-over and press 1/2", then measure, pin, and stitch your hem.  My hem was 3" deep, and stitched by machine.  I save the hand-hemming for skirt hems, or anything that would show from the outside.  

Step Four: Stitch Tucks 

Tucks are essentially just folds stitched in fabric, which can be as tiny or deep, and spaced as close or far apart as you please.  When added to the hem of a petticoat, they serve both a decorative and functional purpose - adding visual interest and helping hold skirts out (so they don’t tangle around the wearer’s legs). 

Measuring from the hem, I pinned and pressed a fold for the first tuck.  I was using 1/2” tucks, placed 4” above the hem - which means measuring 5” up from the hem. 

Measuring the first tuck.

Next, stitch a 1/2” away from the folded edge for a 1/2” tuck.  Once stitched, press the fold down towards the hem, completing the first tuck.

For second tuck, I used the stitch line from the first tuck as my guide (rather than measuring from the hem again).  I wanted a second 1/2" tuck spaced 1" from the first, so, my next fold line was 2” above the stitch line.  Using a ruler, press and pin the next tuck; then stitch another 1/2” from the folded edge.

Adding a second tuck.

Repeat the process until all of your tucks are stitched.  I put three, 1/2" tucks on one petticoat, and five, 1/2" tucks on the other. 

Adding more tucks.

Finished 3" hem with five (1/2") tucks.

Step Five: Balance the Waistline 

To balance the top edge of the skirt, measure from the hem to waistline, and mark your center front length, sides, and back lengths.  For me, this was 35" at the center front, 35.5" at the sides, and 36" at the center back for the longer, 5-tuck petticoat; and 34" CF, 34.5" SS, and 35" CB for the 3-tuck petticoat.  Using a fabric marking tool, connect these measurements with a smooth line, and either cut (if you are planning to enclose the raw edges), or fold along this line (if you are gauging/cartridge pleating). 

While the skirt is still flat, I like to finish the top edges with either hand overcasting or serging to prevent raveling.  It can also be helpful to divide and mark the skirt into quarters or eights. 

Step Six: Gather or Gauge (Cartridge Pleat)

To gauge (cartridge pleat), use a strong thread like button twist (I use 6-strand embroidery floss), and stitch two, parallel lines of gathers.  You will be sewing through two layers of fabric, and want to start the first row of gathers about 1/4" from the folded, top edge.  The second line of gathers should be 1/4" - 3/8" below the first line of stitches. 

Gauging (cartridge pleating) requires two lines of parallel gathering stiches.

Step Seven: Prepare Waistband

To make the waistband, you will want to measure your waist over your stays or corset, and then add 1" for overlapping closures, and 1" for seam allowances - this is the total length.  For a 1" wide band, cut 3" (including 1/2" seam allowance; for a 1.5" wide band, cut 4" (including 1/2" SA).  Fold the waistband in half, right sides together, and stitch around the edges.  Turn right sides out, press flat, and stitch the waistband closed. 

Step Eight: Attach the Skirt

Begin by pinning your skirt to the waistband.  I like to mark quarters (and eights) on the waistband to line up with the skirt markings.  Evenly distribute the gathers across the waistband. 

Gathers evenly distributed and pinned to the waistband.

Pinning gathers, detail.

Stitch through each pleat's fold, securing the skirt to the waistband.  Every inch or so, I like to do a double stitch through a pleat for extra security.  Tie off the gathering threads when finished. 

To attach the skirt, stitch through the fold of each pleat, whipping it to the waistband.

Helpful illustration from The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing Book II (page 22)

Gauged skirt, outside.

Gauged skirt, inside.  

Finished petticoat!

Step Nine: Button & Button Hole Closure 

Add a button and button hole closure (or ties) to finish your petticoat. 

Pro tip: if you machine stitch your button holes, I like to apply a little fray check around the button hole to prevent fraying, in case I cut threads!  I also find this binds the stitching (like glue), and is less prone to stretching over time. 

Button & button hole closures

Enjoy your new tucked petticoat - or in my case, set of tucked petticoats! 

Completed Project Pictures

Here's the 3-tuck petticoat: 

Here's the 5-tuck petticoat overtop:

Tucks at the hem, detail.

Have you ever made a tucked petticoat?  Share your petticoat project, or if you have any questions on the process, in the comments below!

Button closure, detail.

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