Making a Set of Tucked Petticoats

"SKIRTS.  Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half breadths in them, according to the width of the material of which they are made : they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, tucks, or worked muslin." - The Workwoman's Guide, 1838 (page 104) 

Back to blogging after an unintended 7-month hiatus!  In this second post for today, I will be documenting how I made a new set of tucked petticoats, and providing a step-by-step tutorial for making your own plain or tucked petticoats, appropriate for 1830s-50s impressions.  

Believe it or not, I have been making do and mending the same set of mid-19th century petticoats since 2015 (see this throw-back post from the blog archive: 1850s Undergarments).  While corsets have come and gone, and my Civil War Era petticoats have already been replaced once, it is past time to refresh the pre-hoop undergarments.  With an upcoming "Getting Dressed in the 1830s" later in May, (and an 1840s version already scheduled for 2025), I definitely needed a new, crisp, and presentable set of tucked petticoats, made from my favorite pimatex cotton (which may last another decade!)

Historical Inspiration

Petticoats (also called "underskirts" or simply "skirts") are often constructed in a similar manner as the outermost or dress' skirt.  Layering multiple petticoats adds fullness and body, supporting the dress and creating a soft bell or dome shape, as was fashionable in the Romantic and Crinoline Eras.  

According to The Workwoman's Guide, published in 1838, petticoats are "made in various ways" and the text continues to offer the following paragraph description on page 104: 

SKIRTS. Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half breadths in them, according to the width of the material of which they are made : they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, tucks, or worked muslin. Sometimes they are bought with cotton runners, woven in them at the bottom, six or eight nails deep, which make the dress stand out, and if the gown is of a clinging material, causes it to hang better. Skirts are generally made with the opening behind, but for elderly persons or servants, it is at the sides, the seams being left unsewed for about four nails from the top ; sometimes they are furnished with pockets on one or both sides ; for a description of which, see Pockets. Skirts may be set on to the body, either equally full all round, plain under the arms, and full at the front and back, or with all the fulness behind. Servants frequently wear their petticoats merely set into a tape round the waist, without any body, and with or without tape shoulder-straps, to keep them up. Under or middle petticoats are also made in this manner.

(Aside:  I also found the descriptions of nursing petticoats interesting, on page 105, which is somewhat reminiscent of 18th century petticoat construction.)

This style of petticoat - with a full skirt cut from rectangular panels, set onto a waistband, closing at the center back, and finished at the bottom with a deep hem and/or tucks - continues to be worn throughout the mid-19th century until gored skirts return (~1864).  I rarely see tapes or shoulder-straps by the late 1840s, which could have to do with the return of the natural waist.  Here are two extant examples, one plain and one with tucks, from the Costume Institute's collections at the Metropolitan Museum of Art: 

Left: Petticoat, 1850s. MET Museum, accession number: C.I.60.11.2
Right: Petticoat, ca.1860. MET Museum, accession number: C.I.37.46.103

Construction Details

Now for a tutorial and step-by-step instructions on making your own plain or tucked petticoats for 1830s-1850s impressions, using my own as the examples (see italics): 

Step One: Measurements & Materials 

When it comes to choosing materials, I like to use a tightly woven cotton like pimatex because it's crisp, smooth, and durable for many years of wear.  Otherwise, look for a quality bleached cotton or linen, while others recommend stiffer materials like cotton organdy.  For this project, I ordered 10 yards of 45" wide cotton pimatex from Dharma Trading Co, and then machine washed (to shrink and remove factory sizing), dried on high heat, and pressed the fabric. 

For measurements, there are several considerations:  first, determine the finished length.  Ideally, you'll want your petticoat to fall between lower calf-length to above the ankle, and should be 1"-2" shorter than your dress.  Measure from waist to hem at your center front, sides, and center back over any addition supports/padding that you plan to wear with your petticoats.  You may find that the back length is several inches longer than the front.  Use the longest measurement for the next step 

To your longest length, add the following allowances: 

• Hem allowance: 1/2" turn under + 1"-5" for a deep hem
• Decorative tucks (optional): each tuck will take up twice as much length; for instance, a 1/2" tuck will take 1" of fabric.  So, calculate your number of tucks, and multiply times two. 
• Waistline allowance: if you are enclosing the top of the petticoat, add 1/2" seam allowance.  If you are planning to fold over the edge to gauge (cartridge pleat), add 1"-2" allowance. 

Together, these will be the cut length.  For my 5-tuck petticoat, I wanted the finished lengths to be 35" at the center front, and 36" at the center back.  Subtracting 1.5" for the waistband from 36", my skirt length would be 34.5".  To that, I added 1" for the top, 3.5" for the hem, and 5" (for 5 tucks @ 1/2"deep), making my cut length 44" total. 

Next, you'll want to calculate the width of your petticoat.  For the 1830s-50s, the fullness should be between 120"-140".  (Check out Kenna's fabulous hem study here: Hem Circumference Resource).  I like to work selvedge to selvedge whenever possible, so I used 3 lengths of the 45" pimatex cotton, for a total ~135" hem. 

Step Two: Cut & Seam Panels

I chose to seam my panels by machine for speed, though straight seams are great for practicing hand-stitching.  Finish the seams as you please, which could include flat-felling, overcasting by hand, or serging to prevent raveling.  Since I am using the selvages, I just pressed my seams open. 

Leave at least 12"-15" free at the center back seam for an opening (to help get the petticoat on).  If your center back is on a seam, finish the sides with a 1/4" double-folded hem, and reinforce the end of the stitching with a bar tack. 

Otherwise, you will need to cut the 12"-15" slit, and finish the raw edges with binding, placket, or turning a double-folded hem and reinforcing the end.  I used the later method, and finished the bottom with a button hole stitch and thread bar, so the slit would not continue to rip.  The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing (page 27) has excellent directions for this "binding slits" technique: 

The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing (page 27)
[Click on image to enlarge]

Step Three: Hemming 

Fold-over and press 1/2", then measure, pin, and stitch your hem.  My hem was 3" deep, and stitched by machine.  I save the hand-hemming for skirt hems, or anything that would show from the outside.  

Step Four: Stitch Tucks 

Tucks are essentially just folds stitched in fabric, which can be as tiny or deep, and spaced as close or far apart as you please.  When added to the hem of a petticoat, they serve both a decorative and functional purpose - adding visual interest and helping hold skirts out (so they don’t tangle around the wearer’s legs). 

Measuring from the hem, I pinned and pressed a fold for the first tuck.  I was using 1/2” tucks, placed 4” above the hem - which means measuring 5” up from the hem. 

Measuring the first tuck.

Next, stitch a 1/2” away from the folded edge for a 1/2” tuck.  Once stitched, press the fold down towards the hem, completing the first tuck.

For second tuck, I used the stitch line from the first tuck as my guide (rather than measuring from the hem again).  I wanted a second 1/2" tuck spaced 1" from the first, so, my next fold line was 2” above the stitch line.  Using a ruler, press and pin the next tuck; then stitch another 1/2” from the folded edge.

Adding a second tuck.

Repeat the process until all of your tucks are stitched.  I put three, 1/2" tucks on one petticoat, and five, 1/2" tucks on the other. 

Adding more tucks.

Finished 3" hem with five (1/2") tucks.

Step Five: Balance the Waistline 

To balance the top edge of the skirt, measure from the hem to waistline, and mark your center front length, sides, and back lengths.  For me, this was 35" at the center front, 35.5" at the sides, and 36" at the center back for the longer, 5-tuck petticoat; and 34" CF, 34.5" SS, and 35" CB for the 3-tuck petticoat.  Using a fabric marking tool, connect these measurements with a smooth line, and either cut (if you are planning to enclose the raw edges), or fold along this line (if you are gauging/cartridge pleating). 

While the skirt is still flat, I like to finish the top edges with either hand overcasting or serging to prevent raveling.  It can also be helpful to divide and mark the skirt into quarters or eights. 

Step Six: Gather or Gauge (Cartridge Pleat)

To gauge (cartridge pleat), use a strong thread like button twist (I use 6-strand embroidery floss), and stitch two, parallel lines of gathers.  You will be sewing through two layers of fabric, and want to start the first row of gathers about 1/4" from the folded, top edge.  The second line of gathers should be 1/4" - 3/8" below the first line of stitches. 

Gauging (cartridge pleating) requires two lines of parallel gathering stiches.

Step Seven: Prepare Waistband

To make the waistband, you will want to measure your waist over your stays or corset, and then add 1" for overlapping closures, and 1" for seam allowances - this is the total length.  For a 1" wide band, cut 3" (including 1/2" seam allowance; for a 1.5" wide band, cut 4" (including 1/2" SA).  Fold the waistband in half, right sides together, and stitch around the edges.  Turn right sides out, press flat, and stitch the waistband closed. 

Step Eight: Attach the Skirt

Begin by pinning your skirt to the waistband.  I like to mark quarters (and eights) on the waistband to line up with the skirt markings.  Evenly distribute the gathers across the waistband. 

Gathers evenly distributed and pinned to the waistband.

Pinning gathers, detail.

Stitch through each pleat's fold, securing the skirt to the waistband.  Every inch or so, I like to do a double stitch through a pleat for extra security.  Tie off the gathering threads when finished. 

To attach the skirt, stitch through the fold of each pleat, whipping it to the waistband.

Helpful illustration from The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing Book II (page 22)

Gauged skirt, outside.

Gauged skirt, inside.  

Finished petticoat!

Step Nine: Button & Button Hole Closure 

Add a button and button hole closure (or ties) to finish your petticoat. 

Pro tip: if you machine stitch your button holes, I like to apply a little fray check around the button hole to prevent fraying, in case I cut threads!  I also find this binds the stitching (like glue), and is less prone to stretching over time. 

Button & button hole closures

Enjoy your new tucked petticoat - or in my case, set of tucked petticoats! 

Completed Project Pictures

Here's the 3-tuck petticoat: 

Here's the 5-tuck petticoat overtop:

Tucks at the hem, detail.

Have you ever made a tucked petticoat?  Share your petticoat project, or if you have any questions on the process, in the comments below!

Button closure, detail.

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While the Veil Around Her Streameth

"One sacred oath hath tied 

Our loves; one destiny our life shall guide;

Nor wild nor deep our common way divide!

Ushered thus, we haste to enter on a scene of radiant joy—

List’ning vows in ardor plighted, which alone can death destroy.

"Passing fair the bride appeareth, in her robes of snowy white,

While the veil around her streameth, like a silvery halo’s light;

And amid her hair’s rich braidings rests the pearly orange bough,

With its fragrant blossoms pressing on her pure, unclouded brow.

Bridal Fashions Plate, Winter 1847
(Image source: Claremont Colleges Digital Library) 

"Love’s devotion yields the future with young Hope’s resplendent beam;

And her spirit thrills with rapture, yielding to its blissful dream!"

- "Eras of Life: Marriage" by Mrs. A.F. Law, 

Godey's Lady's Book, January 1851

Last year, on this very day, my two good friends, Allison and Stephen, said their "I do's" in the wedding of the centuries!  Surrounded by family and friends, fashions from the 1840s through the 1940s, the couple share a love unbound by time.  So, on this first of many anniversaries to come, I wish them another year and lifetime of happiness, great success, joy and abundant blessings!

In celebration, with permission from the bride, today's blog post is all about the making of her hand-beaded wedding veil.  I had wanted to present a gift that would let them know how much they mean to me, and hope that this small, yet hand-and-heart-made contribution did just that.

A hand-beaded bridal veil of net and glass pearls.

The Veil Around Her Streameth

News of the engagement spread quickly through our village, and plans for the trousseau began soon after.  For me, this meant the privilege of a second foray into bridal attire - the first being for the matron of honor and our mutual friend, Ariana, several months prior.

Allison was (and is!) a gorgeous bride, with the grace and beauty reminiscent of Franz Xaver Winterhalter's portrait of Queen Victoria in her wedding dress, which was completed in 1847 as an anniversary present for Prince Albert.  In the 1840s style and tradition set by the queen, bridal veils were made from either fine lace or net and worn beneath a wreath of sweet orange blossoms.

Portrait of Queen Victoria in her wedding dress and veil from 1840,
painted by Franz Xaver Winterhalter in 1847.
The original painting is owned by the Royal Collection.
(Image in public domain, via Wikimedia Commons)

For Allison's veil, we decided on an ivory cotton net with a beaded edge.  She asked for a "moderately full" look that would extend a couple inches past the waist or to around hip length, which I measured to be about 30".  After gathering a length of ivory net, dozens of matching 4mm pearls and a silver wire hair comb, I was ready to begin what would be around a 40 hour project, thinking of Allison and Stephen with each stitch.

While the saying may be that a picture is worth a thousand words, I think that a thousand stitches were worth this picture, which was shared with me on Facebook:

The moment every mother dreams of...
Pinning the veil beneath a crown of orange blossoms.
(Photograph via Facebook)

Construction Details

Having already beaded a veil previously, (see the blog post, here: Something Old, Something New - and Something Green!), I had a better idea of what to expect and improve upon this time.  The first step after taking the measurements was to draft a pattern and cut a rounded, semicircular veil.  Next, the outer edges were finished with a "pencil edge," rolling the hem with a single strand of a vintage, size 20, white floss from France and securing a glass pearl every half inch or so. 

The shape was rounded to fall elegantly around the face edge,
with the longest, center back length around 32"

Detail shot of the hem with pearls spaced every 1/2"

I quickly learned that working with net is very different than the tulle I used the first time.  The larger weave of the net, though less slippery than tulle, makes the edge harder to control and to maintain an even hem.  There were plenty of re-dos, especially when I pulled too tightly or took too big (or too little) of a stitch.  Despite all of the challenges and finicky nature of net, I admit (now) to enjoying the process and, most of all, the end result.

1/16" rolled "pencil edge" on the net.

Close up of the edge of the net.

With the beading done, finishing was pretty straight forward.  The upper, unfinished edge was gathered down and securely whip stitched to the comb until the raw edges were smooth and mostly covered by the thread.

Gathering the unfinished edge to the length of the comb.
The "silver wire hair comb" was 4.25" in length.

Secured to the comb, the next step is to bind the edge with satin ribbon.
Pliers may be necessary to work the needle through all of the layers.

Then, to prevent any snagging on the hairstyle, the edge was bound with a length of cream satin ribbon, secured by tiny whip stitches between each tooth.  If the bride preferred the comb to be visible, any number of embellishments from fabric flowers to crystals and pearls could be added.

The finished edge from the outside!

Finished edge from the inside -
which should always look as neat and tidy as the outside!

Completed Project Shots

Hand-beaded bridal veil of net and glass pearls - front.

View of the full veil - laid flat.

Detail of the back of the veil against cotton muslin -
I wanted the pearls to look as if they were floating!

Same view, laid flat on cotton muslin.

Again, this time on a black background.

And to finish this blog post, a picture of the couple -

Happy Anniversary, Stephen and Allison! 

Looking as if they had just stepped out of an 1840s fashion plate,
the perfectly-period newlyweds ❤
(Photograph by Ruby Roote, via Facebook)

Inside Victoria's Closet: A Look at GCV&M's Current Exhibit

Today's blog post is all about the current exhibit - Victoria's Closet: Fashions of the 1840s - at the Genesee Country Village & Museum, home to the Susan Greene Costume Collection.  This is a post that I have been waiting to write for some time, and, having seen the exhibit in person (finally!), I am so excited to share both a preview of the highlights and a bit of the behind-the-scenes fun.

Victoria's Closet, Fashions of the 1840s
Genesee Country Village & Museum

In a word, Victoria's Closet is phenomenal - it's truly fit for a queen!  Patricia Tice, curator of the John L. Wehle Gallery and Susan Greene Costume Collection, could not have envisioned a more brilliant and timely idea, combining fashions and photography with all the splendor of a Queen and the warmth among family.  It's every BBC Victoria fan's dream - just think of all of those amazing costumes in season two!  Plus, what could be more perfect than an entire gallery full of 1840's fashions?!

From start to finish, I was just in awe of the creative talents, research and attention to detail that went into the making of this and every GCV&M exhibit.  I have such respect for the dedicated gallery staff - Patricia, Elizabeth, Darlene, Brandon - and their team of volunteers who brought Victoria's Closet to life, which opened to the public for the first time on May 12, 2018.  So, if you haven't already, make sure to plan your visit to see Victoria's Closet: Fashions of the 1840s and prepare to be amazed!

Inside the Victoria's Closet Exhibit

In this exhibit, you literally and figuratively step into Victoria's closet.  Greeted by the gallery doors, dressed as if they belong to a wardrobe, you enter a magical world, the Narnia of 1840s fashions...

The entrance to the exhibit

There's something for everyone here - men's, women's and children's fashions are all represented in case after case of fully dressed and posed figures:

Dresses for every occasion, including three wedding dresses:

There's a real intimacy to this exhibit.  Not only in the ins and outs of dress, but in the glimpse of a young queen and her family's life.  Excerpts from Victoria's diary and personal letters accompany many of the extant garments, and eye-catching infographics on the royal family members, the silhouettes and trends of fashion line the walls.  The exhibit's design and integration of information is just as exquisite as the clothing. 

A rainbow of children's clothing!

In addition to the larger cases, there are standing cases along the center walkways with bonnets, caps, shoes, accessories and ornaments of every type.  Make sure to open the 32 study drawers for even more extant treasures! 

Undergarments for the entire family: 

Quilted and corded petticoats

And finally, this may have been my favorite dress of the exhibit:  

Just look at that stunning fabric and the 22" waist!

After viewing the galleries, make sure to stop by the "fashion photo op!"  (a.k.a. where education meets entertainment WIN)  Here you can "dress up" and have your picture taken at the photo-op booth, which is behind a giant picture frame! 

Clothing and accessories for the "fashion photo op"
There are even corded petticoats - wow!

The photo-op booth 

There's even a carriage and several fully dressed forms in the entrance hall that provide a stylish backdrop for the "fashion photo op."  Don't miss the dalmatian advertising the other, fantastic exhibit - Working Like a Dog!  

Behind-the-Scenes Bonus

And now, for something a little different...At the end of last summer, in preparation for the exhibit, I had the chance to participate in a secret project...the making of, err rather modeling for mannequins!

Modeling for mannequins!
(Photograph by Ruby Foote, GCV&M photographer)

When Patricia and her sister, Elizabeth, asked, I was so happy to say "yes" to such a neat project!  Working for a living history museum, one never knows what they'll be asked to do next, and that's all part of the fun.  This time, I laced up (or rather down to 22"-23") to be wrapped in layers and layers of duct tape.  These "duct tape dummies" (made over a t-shirt and plastic wrap to protect exposed skin) of my corseted measurements could then be covered in archival safe materials and used for adjustable mannequins.

After a few afternoons of Elizabeth patiently wrapping me, we probably ended up with at least ten or so torsos:

Getting taped!
(Photograph by Ruby Foote)

Each duct tape torso had to be carefully cut off
using the t-shirt underneath to keep the shape.
(Photograph by Ruby Foote)

We also attempted a few arms in a bent position over stocking material, though these were much more difficult to cut off:

Cutting off my "arm" in progress
(Photograph by Ruby Foote)

Our official museum photographer, Ruby, stopped by one of the duct taping sessions and graciously captured all of the in-progress pictures for this blog post - a million thanks to you, Ruby! :) 

Here's a competed torso with two arms:   

A "duct tape dummy" of me!
(Photograph by Ruby Foote)

So, the mannequins went from looking something like this:

Wow, I have boxy ribs apparently...

To being stuffed, taking in or padding out certain areas as needed:

Looking at some of the dress options for the exhibit 

Then, after being covered in acid free and archival safe materials, assembled and dressed to exhibit ready:

One of the final forms in the exhibit -
from duct tape to a fully dressed and accessorized mannequin!

Seeing the exhibit (and all of the me-sized extant dresses haha!) makes me want to sew an 1840s dress or five...fan fronts, bias cut sleeves, ombré roller prints, what's there not to love?!  Thank you so much, Patricia and Elizabeth, for allowing me to be a part of your behind-the-scenes fun and for creating such an inspirational, must-see costume exhibit!