"A new material for petticoats has been introduced into London by Her Majesty Victoria. It is of very thick material, with a very brilliant scarlet and black stripe. The Empress Eugenie whose Spanish taste is for bright colors, has adopted them" - Godey's Lady's Book, March 1858
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| Descending the staircase at the Livingston-Backus House. Photograph by B. Brooks @l_aspect_ancien |
The unthinkable has happened...my university has declared not just one, but two snow days due to the dangerous weather conditions. It is currently -5°F with a windchill of -29°, and that, my friends, is just too cold! On the bright side, this gives me the perfect opportunity to finally blog about an interesting project I participated in at the Genesee Country Village & Museum.
Right before heading back to Kent, Brandon, the curatorial intern whom many may recognize from the fabulous Instagram account - L'Aspect Ancien, contacted me with an offer I couldn't pass up! Firstly, I have the greatest respect and admiration for Patrica Tice, curator of the John L. Wehle Gallery and Susan Greene Costume Collection, and the exhibits she designs. Anything I can do for her and our museum, I always more than happy, especially when it comes to getting to dress up. That said, you can imagine how thrilled I was at the invitation to model their reproduction Balmoral petticoat, part of the upcoming exhibit: Victoria’s Closet, Fashions of the 1850s!
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| Reproduction Balmoral petticoat by Brandon on the left, and the 1850s wool plaid petticoat that inspired it on the right. |
If you've been following Brandon @l_aspect_ancien or the official museum's account @gcvmuseum on Instagram, (as you should be!), you may have seen the reproduction Balmoral petticoat above in progress and through completion. Made from red wool (from Burnley & Trowbridge Co.), black ribbon and polished cotton for the yoke, the petticoat was meticulously reproduced using the same measurements and construction techniques of an original, 1850s plaid petticoat in the Susan Greene Collection.
In addition to being very talented with a needle, Brandon is a genius with a camera. After a few hours of prepping in the warmth of the gallery with the help of Patricia's artistic eye, and photo shooting in the Livingston Backus House and around the village square, this fantastic film short was produced:
Perhaps you've already seen it on our museum's Facebook and Instagram accounts? I do hope it has brought some nice attention to the new exhibit and winter wear in the collection - and thank everyone at the gallery for inviting me to take part in such a special project!
Behind-the-Scenes Bonus
Along with sharing the results of a day of photo shooting, I'd also like to provide a bit of historical context and a few parting thoughts. Many thanks to Brandon here for the permission to use his photographs!
First, you may be wondering what exactly is a "Balmoral petticoat," and how it differs from just another scarlet-colored skirt. The Dreamstress wrote a great article on the topic, here - Terminology: What is a Balmoral Petticoat?. In her post, Leimomi Oakes defines the "Balmoral" as a "coloured petticoat that was intended to show at the hem of a drawn-up skirt for walking and sportswear in the 1860s and 1870s." Born from Queen Victoria's love of Scotland, described as "my dear paradise in the Highlands," and her adoption of the garment at Balmoral Castle, the name "Balmoral" stuck and the fashionable petticoat caught on around the world.
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| Queen Victoria in a Tartan sash (Portrait via: Plaid Petticoats) |
I also liked the description found in this 2011 Victoriana Magazine article, here - Balmoral Castle and Ladies’ Fashion: How Queen Victoria's vacation retreat influenced Victorian fashion
"Subsequently, in the 1850s, the name of 'Balmoral' was given to various articles of clothing possessing unusual strength and weight, in imitation of the materials or style of those worn outdoors by [Queen] Victoria or the members of her family during visits to the new royal residence. The Balmoral petticoat, a woolen petticoat originally red with black stripes, was intended to be displayed below the skirt of the dress, which was looped up over the hoopskirt. The gown skirt was looped up about a foot at every seam to display the petticoat, and thus hung in festoons and folds. Victoria assumed the Balmoral petticoat for health, comfort, and warmth. She accompanied it with the Balmoral boot, and even with mohair and colored stockings"
- Excerpt from "Balmoral Castle and Ladies' Fashion," Victoriana Magazine
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| "The Balmoral petticoat, a woolen petticoat originally red with black stripes, was intended to be displayed below the skirt of a dress, which was looped up over the hoopskirt" Photograph by B. Brooks |
As far as period sources, including photographs and portraits, fashion plates, advertisements and even sheet music illustrations, there are plenty out there! Here are some that may be of interest:
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| Walking Dress Peterson Magazine, March 1861 (Image via: Pinterest) |
"Fig. IV. - The Highland. - This charming dress, suitable for the country, is of plain delaine. In the engraving the skirt is fastened up with 'pages:' but can also be made to fasten up on the inside by placing a few buttons around the skirt, and looping them up with tape strings depending from the waist. With this dress a Balmoral skirt is indispensable. Some ladies make the petticoat of plain gray flannel, and ornament it with rows of red cloth or flannel."
- Excerpt from page 273 of the Peterson Magazine, March 1861
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| A label from the Charles Lewis Co. (Image via: Pinterest) |
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| A Label from Fairbrook Mills One of six in a collection from the Library Company of Philadelphia |
Here are some ice skating specific references:
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| A Balmoral Skirt American Textile History Museum (Image via: MSU Archaeology Program) |
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| "The Skaters Waltz" (Image via: Pinterest) |
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| "Lady Skaters" (Image via: Pinterest) |
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| I love this one! (Image via: Pinterest) |
From my short time wearing the reproduction Balmoral petticoat, I could tell why the fashion appealed to so many. For practical reasons, it was warm, repelled moisture and protected my skirts from the mud and snow. The shorter hem length and wearing my dress retrousse or "looped up" made for greater mobility and kept my hands free to hide in my antique muff or to adjust the quilted hood - borrowed from Anna Worden Bauersmith just for the shoot!
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| Quilted plaid winter hood by Anna Worden Bauersmith Balmoral petticoat & photograph by B. Brooks |
The style is definitely conducive to ice skating (see the antique skates from the collection below), and for vanity's sake, would certainly catch the eyes of passerby's!
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| Posing with antique ice skates from the collection! Photograph by B. Brooks |
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| Wonder if they'd fit? |
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| Perhaps the Altay General Store might have a pair in my size! Photograph by B. Brandon |
And that concludes this very long, but hopefully informative blog post! Thank you to all of the talented gallery staff for your endless hours of hard work! Your dedication to both the curation of the collection and the crafting of exhibits, like the previous Victoria's Closet: Fashions of the 1840s, is an inspiration to all who visit the museum and galleries. I'm sure that I speak for everyone when I say - we can't wait for the next installment, Victoria's Closet: Fashions of the 1850s, opening Spring 2019 at the Genesee Country Village & Museum!
