Showing posts with label Mad for Plaid. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mad for Plaid. Show all posts

January 30, 2016

1820s Mad for Plaid: Photo Shoot

The way a crow Shook down on me
The dust of snow From a hemlock tree
Has given my heart A change of mood
And saved some part Of a day I had rued.
~ "Dust of Snow" by Robert Frost


Happy Friday, dear readers!  As of late, I've been rather uninspired to blog, focusing my writing rather on the plethora of papers for my college classes.  (In fact, in my script analysis class, which has quickly become my favorite, we just wrote about "Moony's Kid Don't Cry," which is one of Tennessee Williams' early, but brilliant, one acts.  I highly recommend it to those looking for a quick and deep read - fans of The Glass Menagerie will especially like it!)  Anyways, onto the 1820s Mad for Plaid Photo Shoot (paired with some Robert Frost poetry, of course) that I've been promising for the last few posts!


I was almost not going to post this photo shoot, feeling a little displeased with the results - not to mention the lack of snow - and the departure from historical accuracy.  However, I couldn't bring myself to delete the post.  SO, please keep in mind that this outfit is not meant to be a purely historical creation, but rather a fun, historically inspired costume piece!  Knowing what I know now (a whole year after the project was initially planned), some of the materials are wrong; though, for the most part, the construction techniques are on the right track.  Regardless of its inaccuracies, I still like wearing and twirling around in it, and it's become one of my most fun - and certainly most time consuming - outfits that I've made yet! 

Silliness!  I believe at this point that I was spinning around the hallway
& giving the little sister, my photographer, a hard time...

Also, a special note on the plaid trim: it's actually recycled, err upcycled, from what I consider the first garment I ever made - a 100% machine stitched "Civil War" skirt with a zipper and all...I've come a long way since.  You can read more about the outfit's bonnet here, the creation of the accessories here, and the initial planning & inspiration (way back in January of 2015) here.  


Completed Project Shots

*Photographs all courtesy of and thanks to the great talent of my younger sister and budding photographer, Maria M.*


Nearly the day before leaving for Pittsburgh, Maria, my favorite sister & photographer, indulged her older sister with one last photo shoot 'till the summer.  It was absolutely frigid at our location, once again the East Garden of the George Eastman Museum, despite the rather green surrounds for it being early January in Upstate New York.  Since neither Maria nor I tolerate the cold well, our shoot lasted all of maybe 15 minutes before we moved to find an indoor location.  

From the inside-out, the outfit includes the 1820s inspired dress and belt worn over a shift, mid-century corset, white silk stockings, strapped petticoat and ruffly chemisette.  The costume is further accessorized with a matching bonnet, furry muff, reticule, pashmina shawl, vintage gloves and pointed-toe slippers. 



Whose woods these are I think I know.   
His house is in the village though;   
He will not see me stopping here   
To watch his woods fill up with snow. 


  


My little horse must think it queer   
To stop without a farmhouse near   
Between the woods and frozen lake   
The darkest evening of the year.   



He gives his harness bells a shake   
To ask if there is some mistake.   
The only other sound’s the sweep   
Of easy wind and downy flake.   



The woods are lovely, dark and deep,   
But I have promises to keep,   
And miles to go before I sleep,   
And miles to go before I sleep.

~ "Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening" by Robert Frost 



Along with a few more hallway shots, just because...



My best attempt at the "Dreamstress" pose :)



2016 Historical Sew Monthly January Challenge: Procrastination

While, unfortunately, with college and all, I won't be officially participating in the 2016 Historical Sew Monthly, hosted by Dreamstress, this project (specifically the dress and bonnet) coincided so nicely with the first challenge of the year that I couldn't resist one more entry!  Left an abandoned u.f.o. (or "un-finished object") for an entire year, completing the 1820s Mad for Plaid project at the beginning of January was oh so satisfying!
    
The Challenge:  #1: Procrastination - finish a garment you have been putting off finishing (a UFO or PHD) or make something you have been avoiding starting. 

Material:  For the dress - 5 yards of black cotton broadcloth, navy blue cotton (for the bodice lining and hem facing), dark red cotton (for contrast piping and bias tape) & plaid cotton for the trim.  

Pattern:  A combination of experimentation & an 1890s balloon sleeve diagram

Year:  Late 1820s

Notions:  Again for the dress - thick wool yarn for the piping, hooks and eyes, twill tape for the interior waistband & matching threads 

How historically accurate is it?  All right, this is where you should not look too critically...this outfit was made for fun, rather than historical accuracy.  While I would say it's overall look of the costume would definitely be recognized in its time period, its materials and and perhaps some of the construction methods are unorthodox.  Points could be awarded, however, for being mostly hand stitched with only a few machined interior seams.  So...how about 50%?

Historical inspiration:

Tulle summer gown, c. late 1820s to early 1830s.
(Kerry Taylor Auctions)
Carriage Dress, December 1824.
(LACMA Fashion Plate)


Hours to complete:  Lost count! 

First worn:  For the photo shoot 

Total cost:  Unfortunately, I did not keep track...but my best estimate for the outfit would be $45-50 total. 



Finis.

January 6, 2016

And the First Project of 2016 is...an 1820s Bonnet!

The title says it all!  For the first project of this new year (and the last project before college), I revisited the Mad for Plaid UFO (or UnFinished Object) that I began last January and made a matching late 1820s bonnet.  (Note: this bonnet is not meant to be a purely historical creation, rather a fun, historically inspired costume piece!)

Photograph courtesy of Maria M.

As always, I turned to the historical examples for inspiration: and I was taken with the wide brims & ribbons piled sky high!

Marquise de Blaizel by Sir Thomas Lawrence, late 1820s.
(Image via: Old Rags)


Bonnet ca. 1830, The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
(Image via: OMG that Dress!)

So, I cut a basic, craft store, straw hat that I had lying around to the shape I wanted.  Then, wired the edges with millinery wire and small blanket stitches.  Immediately afterwards, I questioned where actual millinery wire had been all my life, because it worked like a dream compared all of the different types of sketchy wires pulled from the garage...


Next came prettying up the insides so that the straw wouldn't catch my hair, and binding the edges to cover the wire and raw edges.


To the outside!  A heavy corduroy covers the crown with a band of plaid (left over from the dress trim) tacked around.  Grosgrain ribbon was used for ties.  


The rest of that nice (vintage?) grosgrain, which was also used in creating the muff, became ribbon loops.  Hand pleated loops of the plaid cotton and gathered loops of ivory, wired ribbon were also added as trim.  A large, swooping plume completed the look:

Close up shot of the trim.

Finally, after three, long days of work, using mostly a combination of hand and machine sewing, as well as a little bit of hot glue, this was the result:







And a few more pictures of the bonnet on me, courtesy of the best, little sister & loyal photographer:

Maria catching me mid-laugh :)



Revealing the girl behind the camera a.k.a. photo-bombing the sister's selfie!

As you can tell, we try to make photo shoots fun...and, yes, there are always a lot of silly pictures taken, (which Maria makes sure to save for future blackmail, sisters...)  Anyways, stay tuned for the upcoming 1820s Mad for Plaid photo shoot, which will probably be the last for some time as I will be leaving for college!  'Till next summer, Maria, and 'till next time, dear readers!

January 12, 2015

1820s Mad for Plaid: Accessorizing

I've been stitching like mad to stay on schedule; however, the ever-present C.A.D.D. (Costume Attention Deficit Disorder) has been stealing away sewing time!  I'm finding planning more projects (like an 1770s spring outfit) and picking out the fabrics & trim a whole lot more exciting than working out all of the problems with this 1820s outfit...

1820s Mad for Plaid:  Cold Weather Accessories 

Anyways, I thought I should at least post some progress, then it's back to sewing the dress and new undergarments this week & finishing accessories over the weekend.


First up, a muff of enormous size:  Quite a fitting accessory I would say for winter as Upstate New York, along with most of the country, at the moment is under a deep freeze!  Though, my muff is no where near as roomy as this Regency lady's...

1798 Parisien Costume
I've seen quite a few fashion plates sporting larger than life muffs,
but none as large as this one...got muff?
(Fashion plate via: http://bygoneyears.tumblr.com/post/347776740/1798-parisian-fashion-got-muff)

My inspiration came from various fashion plates, extant examples as well as other fabulous costumers' muffs.  Specifically, the ribbons and pompoms idea came from the 1890s muff featured in Peterson's Magazine on Festive Attyre (plus Jen's lovely fur muff!).



To make my muff, I used Katherine's wonderful tutorials at A Fashionable Past!  First, following Part I, I made my muff base from black cotton broadcloth and polyfill (thrifted from a pillow).  


Then, to make my faux fur muff cover, I followed Part II of the tutorial, but with a few deviations.  Because of the thickness of the fur, I stitched grosgrain ribbon (stitched right sides together with the fur, turned under and then whip stitched in place) to become the channel for the ribbons.  


To finish, I trimmed my new muff with gold ribbons (to tie the cover over the base) and added fur pompoms onto the ends!  Each pompom was cut from a 4" circle for a 2" diameter, hand gathered and stuffed with polyfill.




Materials: faux fur remnant, black cotton broadcloth, 2" grosgrain ribbon, gold satin ribbon
Total cost: $20
Verdict:  Love it!



My tips & tricks for working with faux fur: 
  1. Comb the fur first.  This way, you won't have the hairs going in every direction imaginable when you go to cut the fur.  
  2. Trace your pattern pieces or cut lines onto the backing of the fur before cutting.  Trust me, this will make the job so much easier!
  3. Best tip: Cut only through the backing of the fabric so that the fur will pull away neatly and cleanly.  I used small, sharp embroidery scissors.  Otherwise, you will have a mess of chopped hairs to clean up (all over your carpet, just like me the first time!)
  4. Best tip: Hand baste all of the seams before machine stitching.  This is the only way to make sure those edges match up exactly and to ensure that nothing will slip under the pressure.  Plus, it will make your life a whole lot easier!
  5. Fur stuck in the seams?  No problem.  Just free the hairs using a pin, which also makes for a better finished, seamless appearance.  Score!


A Regency Reticule:  Or the period correct method for stashing all of your stuff!  The inspiration for the shape came from various fashion plates.  The hexagon shape seemed to be very common.


A simple and straightforward project to construct, or so I thought...I cut the outer pieces from black taffeta, stitched tassels in the corner and cut the plaid lining from the dress trim fabric.  Then, I stitched the pieces together like a regular drawstring bag.  After unpicking a few stitches at the top to hand stitch a line of running stitches to form the casing, I spent way too long trying to insert the drawstring. Only to find out, I forgot to leave an opening on both sides, oops.


Materials:  black taffeta, plaid cotton fabric, satin cord
Total cost: estimated $5, pulled from stash
Verdict:  Still unhappy with the failed drawstring, but I'll know the next time!  I may make another reticule to replace this one, or just use it for pictures.  I sure am glad that I didn't put any more time into decorating it with those gold embroidered flowers as planned.  




Last, but not least, a dress belt:  Another straightforward piece to construct using a combination of machine and hand stitching.  A little wider than 2" by just under 35" long for a nice overlap, the belt is made with a plaid cotton outer layer, interfacing inner layer and black cotton broadcloth lining.  The piping is made from burgundy cotton bias strips with black yarn for cording.  




Helpful Links Referenced: 


January 6, 2015

1820s Mad for Plaid: Planning

And the race is off!  In other words, the first project of 2015 is underway: a winter ensemble I've named the 1820s Mad for Plaid outfit.  Originally planned in my winter sewing list, I'm determined to see this project through and finished for my college portfolio!

Timeline:


1820s Mad for Plaid Winter Ensemble 

January 5th:  Accessories, including a fur muff & reticule.  Done!

January 9th:  Dress & belt.  

January 13th:  Finishing touches, including the velvet pelerine, fur collar & hat.

Bonus:  Shift (from Sense & Sensibility's Regency Underthings pattern) & bodiced petticoat to go with my new patchwork pocket, which may also serve as my HSM January challenge entry.  


Inspiration:


Carriage Dress 1824.
(Fashion plate via: http://collections.lacma.org/node/252935)

Pink silk gown c.1825.
(Image via: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/404409241514164053/)

Promenade Dress from Ackermann’s Repository 1828.
(Fashion plate via: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/546905948470856762/)

Winter Carriage Dress from La Belle Assemblee Magazine 1818.
(Fashion plate via: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/404409241514163839/)

Dress 1814.
(Fashion plate via: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/404409241514163929/)

Accessory set c.1820-1840.
Metropolitan Museum of Art.
(Image via: http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/157842)

For more inspiration, check out my 1820s Winter Outfit Board on Pinterest.  Wish me luck & happy sewing!

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