A Pink Sateen Corset with Pearl Flossing

"Properly constructed, corsets are, as articles of dress, 

the most beneficial that can be constructed" 

~ Madam Roxey A. Caplin, 

Health and Beauty:Women and Her Clothing (1864)

Time replace the old corset with a new one of blush pink sateen with pearl satin floss!

Construction Details

Like my previous model, I began with the pattern pieces from Past Patterns #708 and made modifications as necessary.  I was also able to apply some of the construction techniques that I learned in my independent study in theatrical corsetry.  From the most basic grading of seam allowances to reduce bulk, to pressing over a ham to mold the gussets (preventing those ugly wrinkles when wearing), and a better method of laying in gussets, being neat in every step of the making does count! 

Corset exterior (left) and interior (right)

For this corset, I chose to use a sturdy cotton drill with a blush colored cotton sateen as the fashion fabric.  Each individual piece was cut three times, twice from the drill for an inner and outer lining, and once from the sateen with an extra quarter inch seam allowance.  The outer layer of drill and sateen were then flat lined and basted together so that they would act as one piece.

I also added a modified "waist stay" by edge stitching a piece of twill tape to the inner lining pieces, which should help take any strain from lacing.  Next time, I would add a true waist stay, which would be a continuous piece of twill tape, usually held in by the boning tape (not needed in a double-layer corset).

The pictures above show one of the back hip gussets.  After thread tracing the stitch lines, the seam allowances were pressed under, slashing at the point, and then the gussets were top stitched into place.  This particular method of setting in gussets was a major "ah ha" moment for me during my independent study - no more ugly tucks or puckers at the points, yay!  The process was repeated for all sixteen gussets and all of the seam allowances were further graded to reduce bulk.  

Next, I installed the slot and stud busk at the front and size 00 grommets at the back, cleanly and conveniently joining the inner and outer pieces.  The sides were "log cabin" seamed, which encases the seam allowances, to finish the interior, and eight flat steel bones were added for support.  The top and bottom were bound with self-fabric bias tape and securely whip stitched in place.  

Finally, for the finishing touches, I flossed the corset with a shimmery, pearl-colored satin floss.  Flossing is a functional embroidery traditionally used to help hold corset bones in place.  This floss, however, shredded with every stitch, so I ended up switching to a cotton DMC floss for the gusset points (otherwise I'd still be fighting with that terrible satin floss!)  All that aside, I think the finished product turned out nicely!

Completed Project Pictures

Front view.

Front exterior view.

Back exterior view.

Back view.

Close up of the front with busk and flossing details. 

Now onto make a new chemise and drawers to complete the set! 

18 Reasons Why Blogging Is Important

Having just celebrated my 5th-year blogiversary, it seemed only fitting to write on the top 18 reasons why blogging is important.  Write often, read many, and support all of the historical sewing and costume bloggers out there!  

Where have all the bloggers gone?  Sharing the trials and triumphs from the sewing room, and blogging in general, seems to have fallen out of popularity, especially among a once prolific, historical sewing community.  Whether it has been a lack of time with increasingly busy lives, decreased interest, or migration to the more active, social media platforms (like Facebook and Instagram), the lack of updates has left a void.  More and more costume blogs have gone silent over the past, several years, and this alarming trend shows no signs of stopping, much to the disappointment of dedicated readers everywhere.

Even I struggle to maintain an online presence, as months and months can go by without any updates.  (I've been more consistent on our Facebook Page, I promise!)  So in this post, I hope to not only remind myself, but to provide encouragement to fellow bloggers and to those just getting into the hobby that why we write is just as important as what we write!

18 Reasons Why Blogging Is Important

1 - To Be Inspired

Feeling unmotivated or having a bad day?  Blogs inspire, from entertaining stories to pretty, pretty pictures of the latest, greatest creation, an update from your favorite online author may just be the ticket to lightening the mood and sending you back into the sewing room!  Discovering and following content creators can strengthen existing passions, or even spark new interests that you never knew were within you.

In fact, I credit the years of following costume-related blogs - from the Couture Courtesan, to American Duchess, Beauty from Ashes, the Fashionable Past, Festive Attyre, among dozens of others (see my list of favorites and blog links on the sidebar) - for finding and developing my passion for historical fashion.  Laugh, but it was the highlight of my high school days to come home and to see which bloggers posted, eagerly awaiting the reveal of new projects and dreaming of the day that I'd be able to create my own.  Who knew all these years later that I'd be celebrating five years on a blog of my own, and pursuing a career in clothing reproduction and living history?!

2 - To Inspire Others 

Much like the first reason of being inspired, blogging allows you to inspire others.  By sharing your interest and talents online, you may just ignite the same passion or hobby in another, like the costume bloggers did for me.  So share those sewing tips and tricks, favorite museum or movie costumes, photos from past events, and new research - you never know who's reading and being inspired by what you're posting!

Cheyney of Not Your Momma's History is an icon -
strong, stylish and second-to-none when it comes to advocating
for a more accurate and inclusive future in living history! 

3 - To Educate

Embrace the D.Y.I. (or Do It Yourself) culture!  In the age of "how-to" guides, one can learn just about anything online.  If you're a blogger, you're also an educator!  Whether you explicitly set out to write a step-by-step tutorial, or are just sharing a pictures from a recent project, your post has the potential to teach someone something new.

As a mostly self-taught seamstress, reading costume blogs was instrumental to my learning process.  In following the trials and errors of difficult sewing projects, viewing interiors and in-progress shots, I often felt as though I was sewing along with the bloggers as they wrote.  So, please, post your sewing successes (and the fails!), and let us amateurs learn along with you!

4 - To Meet Like-Minded People 

Ever wonder if you're the only one who does this, or likes that?  Blogging offers the perfect way to meet and instantly connect with entire online communities of hobbyists from all around the globe.  Never fear, there are definitely people who love and actively DO just that, and all it takes is posting a picture or a few words to unlock a world of excitement and encouragement. 

5 - To Form Lasting Friendships

At the top of the benefits to be gained from blogging is the unique ability to form lasting friendships both online and in-person with fellow bloggers, readers, and hobby enthusiasts.  Through online interactions, be it in comments, direct messages and other exchanges, discussing shared interests, sewing frustrations, or even the public events you attend, may lead to more than just a passing "like" on a picture or post.

In fact, having met many of the costume bloggers and instagramers that I follow in-person (cue ALL the awkward fangirling on my part), I'd like to think that I've formed quite a bond with some of them!  A few of us, despite living states apart, even make somewhat regular plans for sewing get-togethers, or at least look forward to catching up at conferences and living history events.

6 - To Strengthen Existing Relationships

After connecting with all of these like-minded people, use blogging to keep up with everyone's current sewing projects!  While it's truly wonderful to meet new people, blogging can also help strengthen existing relationships.  Had a great time at an event with your best friends or family?  Blog about it - share the silly pictures and the funny stories - and months or years later, you may all look back on that post and relive the fond memories and laughs.

7 - To Make Memories

A blog is the ultimate scrapbook, travel journal, project tracker, event planner, "to make" and "to do" list all rolled into one, chronological and digital record.  You'll never forget (even if you wanted to) those early, somewhat embarrassing sewing projects, but the visual timeline from way back in the dark ages of your costuming past to the present offers a priceless, fully documented journey to follow - oh the memories, people, places! 

8 - To Become a Better Writer

Practice makes perfect.  The daily (or more like monthly if you're me) practice of blogging offers an excellent opportunity to hone your writing skills, and, unlike in school, there are no impending deadlines or grades attached! 

9 - To Become a Better Thinker

Award-winning historian and author, David McCullough says that "writing is thinking.  To write well is to think clearly.  That's why it's so hard."  Reading, writing, and thinking are integral tasks, each one improving the other.  In the careful planning and organizing of thoughts and ideas, keeping a blog provides clarity, making us better critical thinkers, observers and problem solvers.

10 - To Exercise Creativity

From photo editing, to picking out the font, text and color schemes, not to mention composing the wording of each post and picture caption, blogging is an art, and each post a masterpiece.  Call it a blog or a visual portfolio, the more you write and share, the quicker the project ideas seem to appear...Eureka!

11 - To Decrease Stress

Just write, or rather type it out!  Treat a blog as an electronic journal or diary, releasing all of those pent up thoughts and jumbled ideas from the mind, and recording them safely online.  Big costuming event coming up, or a misbehaving sewing project driving you nuts?  Get that "to sew" list organized, while bonding with others also in the throws of crazy, last minute sewing.  Talk out those cutting, fitting or other costume construction road blocks, someone usually responds with just the right solution!

Don't fight it out, when you can write it out!

12 - To Increase Productivity

Write it down, make it happen.  Sticking to a blog posting schedule requires lots of self-discipline...set goals, share progress, and your audience will keep you motivated and accountable.

13 - To Boost Self-Confidence

Blogging builds self-confidence, character and resiliency.  It takes gumption to want to be a blogger, as both your words and your image become fully and freely accessible online.

Personally, it's not always easy knowing that readers' reactions are out of my hands, especially as no one wishes to appear foolish or unattractive in their pictures.  However, that's what makes positive interactions all the more meaningful.  There's an undeniable excitement that comes with a notification of a new follower, "like" to picture, or comment on a post - a little "thumbs up" and encouragement goes a long way!  

14 - To Make Yourself More Marketable

Your blog is your brand.  From navigating social media algorithms, to following the latest marketing techniques, keeping a consistent publishing schedule, writing interesting and engaging content, and interacting with diverse, online audiences, being a blogger allows you to practice and then master relevant, marketable, and ultimately employable skills.

15 - It's Easy!

You don't need to be a technological expert, computer programmer, or possess magical powers to begin a blog.  Try one of the dozens of user-friendly publishing services like Blogger or Wordpress (I've used both), or social media platforms like Facebook pages, Instagram, and Tumblr.

16 - It's Free!

Need I say more?  Blogging is free!  Sure, some will pay for upgraded or professional services, and others even generate revenue from running advertisements and creating small businesses - but a basic and simple, yet functional and endlessly customizable platform requires only your time and intellectual investment.

17 - Your Space, Your Rules

On your blog, there are no limits, no glass ceilings, no rules for what you can or cannot do.  From recipes to fashion, home decor and more, here in your corner of cyberspace, you can write about anything you choose.  Find your voice, be yourself, and share what makes you happy!

Sticking their ox tongue cookies out!

18 - Ultimate Satisfaction

From the feeling of fulfillment after hitting "publish" on your latest post, to receiving encouragement and support for your interests from a community of followers, blogging offers the ultimate satisfaction.  Seeking happiness?  Start your blog today!

Are you a blogger or been wanting to begin one for a while?  Why is blogging important to you?  Which reason from the 18 above resonated with you, and what might we have missed?  Let us know in the comments below! 

High Five for 5 Years of Blogging!

Here's to a very Happy 5th Blogiversary!

Blog-iversary (noun) - the anniversary of one's first blog post

It's July 27th, which means FIVE whole years ago, I wrote my first blog post here at the Young Sewphisticate!  Since then, I've seen this little blog grow by leaps and bounds, and over the years, I've been absolutely overwhelmed by the outpouring of support for my sewing, living history, and now weaving adventures.   

Taking a look at some of the most recent statistics:

• Here on the main blog, we've reached over 130,750 page views, welcomed 55 fabulous followers via the blogger subscription service, and written 196 posts and counting!
• Over on the Facebook Page, we've been "liked" 380 times with 389 dedicated followers
• And on Instagram, while only posting 48 times so far, 1190 followers - I just can't believe it, thank you!  

Numbers aside, it brings me such joy to share my interests in historical clothing and textiles, and their reproduction.  The journey may be full of ups and downs, construction challenges and technical triumphs, and all the changes, good and bad, that five years can bring.  But through it all, there is one thing for certain: your constant and continued encouragement, by liking, commenting, sharing, and subscribing, has been greatly appreciated and keeps me blogging!  

Now all that's left to say is:

It's been an incredible five years on the blog, and I look forward to all that's to come in the next five and beyond - as always, thank you for reading! ❤

Summer & Season Number Six

Welcome back to another blog post and, as the title suggests, the start of a long-awaited summer vacation!  Yes, the Spring semester is finally over, and I speak the truth when I say that I have never draped, patterned, painted, woven, and sewn as much as I have in the past few months...art school is no joke, folks, and I am incredibly grateful to my professors, studio-mates, friends, family, and, you, faithful readers, for supporting my studies.

Livingston Gardens, Summer of 2019
(Photograph by Judy J.)

So far, summer break has brought the chance to check off another life goal from the bucket list through a trip to Greenfield Village for their Civil War Remembrance weekend.  (Much more on this to follow in the next blog post!)  A new dress was made, and already photographed, twice - once by Maria, sister and photographer, and then again, thanks to Judy, the partner-n-crime, on my first village visit for the 2019 museum season.


In my short, five years as a costume intern, historic interpreter and interpretation office assistant, and now at the beginning of season number six, there's still nothing like the opening to a new season at the Genesee Country Village & Museum.  I have missed our "museum family," so many friends both in the office and across the historical interpretation staff.  It takes a village - dedicated cooks, carpenters, craftspeople, and clothiers, as well as the behind-the-scenes content creators - to run a museum, and they've no doubt been busy during the off-season to ready the village for a much-anticipated return:

Dorthy serves up tea & cake in the Livingston-Backus House

Spring Pole Lathe in the Wagonmaker & Wheelwright Shop

Weaving continues at the Humphrey House

Jim at work in the Boot & Shomaker's Shop

Per tradition, on my first day back, Judy, the partner-n-crime, and I plan for what has become almost an event - the official opening day, year four, photo!  Due to college, it may not exactly take place on opening day anymore, but the reunion is nonetheless special and welcome.  In fact, this year, on our fourth observance and my sixth season (her seventh), we were happily joined by our good friend, Richard:

The trio - Judy, Richard & Me
(Photograph courtesy of Samantha B.)

The official opening day, year four, photo!
(Photograph courtesy of Richard D.)

A little silliness is always expected!
(Candid shot thanks to Judy J.)

Afterwards, Judy and I took a stroll through the Livingston Gardens, one of my favorite locations in the village, and she graciously played photographer (and host as we caught up that evening): 

A stroll through the Livingston Gardens
(Photograph by Judy J.)

I thought this one rather painterly ;)
(Photograph by Judy J.)

The sun set on my first day back, which will also be the last for a while...for those who do not already know, I have decided to focus on my weaving through a unique summer opportunity, and will only be working limited hours this season upon returning in July through the beginning of August.  Perhaps you'll find me substituting in any of the dozen buildings I've staffed in the past, assisting in the interpretation office, or even in the gallery (for a super secret project!) - but for now, I turn to the next great adventure...Weaving: Picture and Pattern, through the Kent Blossom Art Intensive summer workshop series, featuring visiting artists, Samantha Bittman and Chinami Ricketts, and our resident professor and head of the Textiles department, Janice Lessman-Moss.  It's going to be a great summer!  

Wishing everyone at the Genesee Country Village & Museum 

a most happy and successful 2019 season! 

(Photograph courtesy of Richard D.)

The Citizen's Forum: 2018 Conference

The 2019 Citizen's Forum - an annual, weekend conference focusing on Civil War Era topics for reenactors and living history enthusiasts - is a week from today, and the excitement here is sky high!  I had such a memorable experience last year with all of the inspiring seminars, workshops, shopping and socializing opportunities, I just can't wait for all that's in store next weekend.

In eager anticipation, I thought I'd spend some time reminiscing on the highlights from the 2018 Citizen's Forum.  No post on the subject would be complete without Kristen's official recap, here: The Citizen's Forum of the 1860s 2018, and her most recent Conference Preparations for 2019.

This way to the Citizen's Forum!
Visit the official website: The Citizen's Forum of the 1860s
& Facebook page, also The Citizen's Forum of the 1860s

And now for my recap - the 2018 Citizen's Forum took place on March 23rd through the 25th in Monroe, Michigan.

Friday, March 23rd

Immediately after class, I traveled up to meet Amber, a new friend and roommate for the weekend, and quickly dressed for the evening festivities.  When we arrived at the Sawyer House, which is a beautiful, Italianate-style home and the historic site for the evening soiree, Kristen, the director of the conference, welcomed us and made introductions.  With the mansion tour, new friends and conversations, not to mention the delicious spread and photo opportunities, a delightful evening was had by all!  

Weekend companions - Amber, Ginny the doll & me!
Amber looked fabulous in her purple sheer and matching bracelets!

Sarah from Ensembles of the Past, Kristen of the Victorian Needle & Me
- all very happy to be there!

I even met Elizabeth Aldridge!

  

Yummy yummies, or the obligatory food picture 😋

More food and a Kristen!
I wish I could go back, just to eat more finger sandwiches and cookies... 

Ginny, the blog's traveling doll, enjoyed getting passed around:  

With Amber, wearing almost matching dress styles...
Amber, I still love your dress and want to steal that fabric! 

With the youngest (and cutest!) attendee 

With Kristen and Sarah

Following the soiree, Amber and I joined a small group that toured the Old Mill Museum in Dundee, which was once a working gristmill and now a museum and popular spot for ghost hunting.  Though we didn't witness any paranormal activity, our tour guide was very enthusiastic and our group had a great time.  Perhaps it was just me, but some of the mannequins in the upstairs displays seemed more frightening than any ghost, especially if encountered alone in the dark...I only kid.  The upstairs exhibits provided a history of the Dundee area and a neat series of slice-of-life vignettes:

General store display.

Parlor display.

Saturday, March 24th

The day of conferencing - speakers, socializing and shopping, unite!  Kristen and Glenna Jo, the two masterminds behind the entire event, opened the conference at eight:

Glenna Jo and Kristen delivering the opening remarks

Pretty table decorations, all handmade by Kristen.

There were four, fabulous speakers:

The two Elizabeths!

• Elizabeth Stewart Clark (of the Sewing Academy fame) presented An Eye for Detail: Examining Original Images, Paintings and Engravings for the Details that Change Our Impression, which calls researchers not only to look in general contexts and for specific goals, but to really see what the visual texts communicate.  She also spoke on Our Latest Number: Mid-19th Century Magazines and What They Tell Us, which has opened my eyes to the many offerings in periodicals, and their use in living history events.  

• Robert Beech spoke on period photography, his experiences and artistic practices, and even gave an outdoor demonstration in Civil War Era Photography: A Reenactor's Perspective.

• Elizabeth Aldridge presented Removing Roadblocks in Your Research, which was the most comprehensive teaching in research practices and the overall process I've ever had, in just an hour too!  

• Jillian Drapala chronicled a fascinating history of Female Anomalies of the Civil War, and her dedication to research and making their stories better know was clear in her own impression of Annie Etheridge.  

As well as a youth workshop, in which we discussed how we may be young, yet we are just as passionate about reenacting and honoring our history!

The next generation of living historians addressing the room!

There were plenty of opportunities for shopping in the "Vendor Area" -

Sarah of Ensembles of the Past brought a rainbow of silks!

More silks and all of the reproduction buckles! 

I treated myself to some pretty ribbons and flowers from The Dressmaker's Shop, and silks and reproduction buckles from Ensembles of the Past:

I'm envisioning a drawn bonnet in my future...

As well as a "Musuem" full of extant garments, each matched with an original image - which was literally amazing!  I believe that most, if not all of the objects were from the personal collections of Glenna Jo and Kristen: 

And last, but certainly not least, every conference needs a Board of Positivity: 

Sunday, March 24th

On the closing day, I had the opportunity to attend two workshops - both Fitting from Patterns and the "drop in" Pattern Making taught by Elizabeth Clark.

Explaining "radial projection" as a way to scale patterns in the morning workshop.

Demonstrating draping in the afternoon "drop in" workshop.

I could go on and on about these workshops, and how generous Elizabeth was with her time, knowledge and skills...but I'll leave it with this:

My beloved introduction to historical dressmaking, signed by the author!

Thank you so much to everyone involved with making the conference such a memorable experience - Kristen, Glenna Jo, the speakers, vendors and all behind-the-scenes

Poor Kristen is rightfully exhausted!

And thank you Amber, my friend and roommate for the conference, 'twas such a pleasure to get to know you and I hope to see you again this year!

Alright, who am I going to see next weekend at the 2019 Citizen's Forum?