March 20, 2016

A Quick, Correct Cap

"Fashion is a kind of communication.  
It's a language without words.  
A great hat speaks for itself"  
~ Author Unknown 

The title says it all:  I made a new early-19th century, linen round eared cap to replace the cotton one that I loved so much last season, until it wore out!

Entirely hand stitched with tiny rolled hems and whipped rolled gathers.  Pattern of my own making.  

Inside of cap.

Here's an earlier extant dated from c.1751 to 1800 from the Belgian Art Links and Tools database that I am quite fond of: 

Cap, c.1751-1800
Belgian Art Links and Tools Database
(Image via: Source)

And another side view of mine:

More detail shots: 

Drawn thread worked ruffles.

Whipped rolled gathers from the outside.

Whipped rolled gathers on the inside.

You may notice that there is only one layer of fabric in each section, which is the proper period method of construction.

The gathers must be placed tighter together to fit smoothly around curves!

And, just for fun, here are some pictures of the 1860s working class outfit I threw together using pieces from my 1830s and 1850s wardrobes:  First worn for photographs (yes, I received plenty of odd stares from the short city walk and fellow college classmates...) and to a sewing day at Fort Pitt, where I've had the great pleasure of spending a few weekends.  Thank goodness for friends who encourage your dress up habits!

The hair.  I've been playing around with 1860s styles!
Now all I need to find is a nice, large, decorative hair comb...

Posing with the stylish curtains in the Lawrence Hall Ballroom.
Photographs courtesy of Lauren Wijangco.