Short Gown Studies II

As promised in my last post, 1830s Working Class Wear, today, I have many more clothing close-ups & construction details to share!

Completed 1830s working wear!

Working at a 19th century living history museum has certainly inspired an interest in the working class dress of the early half of the century.  While the lavish pretties of an era never fail to catch my eye, having pretty, yet practical, clothing is a must when it comes to work.  That said, I began a series of short gown studies - four total are planned - for the 1800s, 1810s & two 1830s.  The first study, Short Gown Study I, defines the "short gown" and features a refashioned 1800s garment.  Jumping ahead three decades, this second study looks at the 1830s version of short gown:

Interestingly, the pattern (or really diagram) that I copied from Old Sturbridge Village calls the garment a "short-gown" or "mantelet." 

Image provided in pattern.

As a simple and utilitarian garment, short gowns often seemed to be cut from one piece of fabric, with the sleeves cut as one with the body.  So this particular style stood out to me as an exception, and, actually, was remarked upon in the provided description from the pattern: "This short gown is not cut in the classic shape used in the 18th and eary 19th century but rather has a set-in sleeve that makes it look more like a shortened gown" (156).

A very simple "T" shaped garment with set-in sleeves.

Set-in sleeves with a small poof reminiscent of the fashionable giggot style,
but on a much more practical scale! 

The pattern description then discussed the "suitable fabrics for this garment[, which] are cotton calicoes of appropriate design, plain or checked cottons, fine woolens and homespun linen" (156).  I chose a suitable reproduction cotton print appropriate for the 1830s.  

The pattern's directions were very simple.  Seam the long sides of the body, as well as the sleeves.  Gather the sleeve heads and insert them into the armscye.  Hem everything! Sides, wrists, neckline, skirt hem...And, lastly, take a tuck along the body to create a casing for the drawstring.  

Detail of the tuck/drawstring casing.
The tuck was first stitched with spaced back stitches,
and then, whip stitched down for a neater finish.

To add visual interest (and stability to the seams), I piped everything - long sleeve seams, shoulder seams, armscyes - and added a narrow, piped facing to the neckline and wrists.  

Detail shot of piping.  Notice the very much dropped shoulder seam.

Mostly hand stitched with a combination of spaced back stitches & whip stitches; machine stitched piping strips and along application of piping.  The short gown closes with a drawstring at the waist and pins shut at the top.  

Just like any other project, I first turned to extant examples when planning my short gown.  Take a look at some of the these: 

"Schootjak, Zuid-Holland"
A very familiar shape!
(Image via: Memory of the Netherlands)

"Jak, Friesland"
Look at those poofy sleeves!
(Image via: Memory of the Netherlands)

"Schootjak, Drenthe"
(Image via: Memory of the Netherlands)

Jak, 1835 - 1845
(Image via: Fries Museum)

For more extant short gowns, take a look at my Pinterest board!

Bonus: A few pictures of my newest, blue & white check apron!  Entirely hand stitched.  Aprons are such satisfying projects.  You can never have too many aprons! 

Close up of the gauging at the waist.
Hand overcast on the inside to prevent fraying.

Another project done!  Thanks for reading!